New to trailering

Kermit · Mar 26, 2014

I'm not familiar with that boat, but I got the same advice when I wanted to launch and retrieve my H260 with my Honda Pilot. The consensus was that I would destroy the Pilot. So I traded while it was still a great vehicle. My advice would be to listen to your mechanic and the owners manual.

DHaranSailor · Mar 26, 2014

I went through the same thing and just upgraded from a Jeep Cherokee to a Chevy Avalanche for launching and retrieving my O'Day 22. I tried it with the Jeep first (old '93 so didn't mind if I killed it) and it was a struggle. I am with Kermit, go with the advice you have gotten so far.

caguy · Mar 26, 2014

It looks like the displacement is only 1435#s + approx. 500#'s for the trailer, I don't see a problem. The biggest problem might be traction at low tide, but then everyone goes through that without 4x4.

Brian S · Mar 26, 2014

I'm with Caguy on this. I have an O'day 192 which specs displacement at 1400#, and a Subaru Forester. Depending on where you find the spec, the Forester can tow 2000 or 2400 pounds. Our ramp at Lake Nockamixon is only moderately steep, and I have no problem whatsoever retrieving the boat. In fact, the hill out of the marina area is far more steep than the ramp, and I tow up there ok.

The big issue with tow capacity is the transmission and transmission cooler. On a 4 cylinder engine, neither is very beefy. That's why crossovers like the Ford Escape list maybe 1500# for the 4 banger, but jump to 4000# for the V-6. Well, also the breaking and wheelbase for steering - you want to be able to stop, and you don't want the boat steering the vehicle.

As long as your ramp isn't very steep and slippery, and you don't have more than 200 pounds tongue weight pushing down the back of your car at the hitch, you should be able to move that boat around the parking lot with no problem. It's when you start towing longer distances with significant inclines, that you begin to worry about overheating your transmission.

Speaking of tongue weights, last year I moved a friend's O'day 222, which specs displacement at 2200 pounds. Add in 700 or so for trailer, and I was well over capacity on the Forester. I was mostly concerned about exceeding the 200 pound tongue weight on the hitch, and it did compress the suspension a respectable amount. However, I just moved it from the street to the back yard, so it was fine. I would NOT tow that 222 any further with my rig!

Paul F · Mar 26, 2014

you will not have a problem at all. Your vehicle will pull the boat all day long. I pulled a 19' Flying Scott out of the mountains of PA down to Florida with a 4 cyl front wheel drive Taurus years ago. Not fast but no problems

caguy · Mar 31, 2014

Time2go said:
Thanx to all who responded
I'm going to fence sit awhile and see
if i can locate a cheap 4X4 pick up,
if i can't I'll put the hitch on the Lexus
got a few estimates
350.00 for the hitch
350.00 to wire the lights
I was told that there aren't enough amps
to just tee off the existing wires
Neil

Sounds like someone is trying to sell you an expensive electrical job. Everyone I know splices off their existing wires. I you are concern about the amperage of the trailer lights you are probably going to need new lights anyway, Go with the new LED lights.

Brian S · Apr 1, 2014

Agreed! I have bought 2 hitch kits from etrailer.com, one for my Mazda 3, and one for my parent's new VW Jetta wagon. I get the wiring harness kit from them, for something like $40. It has sockets that fasten between the tail light fixtures and the wiring harness, no cutting or splicing necessary. This goes into an electronic control box that prevents and "fast blinking," and will then give you a flat 4 connector that can run out of the trunk when you need to use it. The LED light kit will have a flat 4 anyway.

I also recommend you get an LED light kit, which you can order right here from the SBO chandlery. I replaced the kit on my 15 footer with the LED. LED is so much less draw, you won't have to worry about a bad ground giving you problems (that's what most of the trouble is with regular lights, a poor ground.)

When you run your wiring, don't bother with the metal clips they give you with the kit - they will rust out. Get big, UV stabilized zip-ties (black) that can go around your frame channels. Then use small zip-ties and zip the wire to the big zip ties. They will last longer than the metal clips, and won't rust out. And it's pretty simple to attach this way. My trailer is C channel, so the wire runs inside the C channel, and then is very easy to zip tie to the bigger zip tie.

Brian

caguy said:
Sounds like someone is trying to sell you an expensive electrical job. Everyone I know splices off their existing wires. I you are concern about the amperage of the trailer lights you are probably going to need new lights anyway, Go with the new LED lights.

agprice22 · Apr 1, 2014

I think he means to install the lighting wiring on the car? Check out etrailers.com or thehitchstore.com. A hitch and lighting kit for that car won't even cost you $250.00 total. ...$221.44 to be exact, for a 2006 Lexus LS430. You CAN wire this and install this yourself in 2-3 hours, no matter how handy you are. I have installed 3 or 4 now, and I am truly inept with tools! Sigh...

However, if he means the trailer lights, yes, use the led, and get the best kit for under $70.00 from etrailer.com. I bet our hosts here have lights too!

Anyway, do it yourself, and save BIG!

Thanks,
Andrew

bmiller · Apr 25, 2014

If you're leaving it at the lake why even wire the car for lights? I think you're safe for the 100 yards.