Hi everyone, buying a 2004 Hunter 146 Monday for $2750.00. The boat appears to be in good shape. Is there anything that I need to check out closely? Does this sound like a good deal. The main reason that I want to go with the 146 is because that it seems like this will be a easy boat to right once I turn her over. Is this true? I have very little sailing experience, and I hope this boat will be easy to learn. Any advice would be appreciated I will be sailing in SC on Lake Murry. thanks, I will be asking a lot of questions in the future.
new to site (Hunter 146)
- Thread starter troutsmoustang
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Welcome to the site. If at all possible take some sailing lessons or join the local sailing club and sail with someone who is looking for crew either for schlepping around or racing. My preference is racing because the sailing is a lot more focused and you will learn faster. If you cant do any of that, read everything you can about how to sail there are some very good basic books that should help. Good sailing Ray T
I agree with Ray, the quickest way is to crew or take a few lessons. It does not take much to get your boat sailing safely but sailing it well takes a bit more experience. Racing gets you there quicker if, for no other reason, you are on the water on a regular basis. Besides, it's the most fun you can have at 5 knots!
If you can't get to lessons or club races, don't worry and just go out and have fun.
A few more points:
1) Don Guillette's sail trim guide (available from this site) is probably the simplest explaination I've seen on the subject. I'd recommend it.
2) Take a look on this forum for AGP repair issues, there are a few recent posts on the subject. You may or may not have to deal with cracks but they are nothing to be afraid of.
3) If the boat did not come with the owner's manual, think about purchasing one. It's the same as for my 170 and I refer to it constantly.
4) Although my 170 is VERY difficult to capsize, it can happen. Before you do anything else, practice the technique required to get back in the boat:
- Account for all crew
- Release all sheets
- Books don't say this but it's strongly recommended: Everyone should hold on to a dockline or some other part of the boat. Once you right the boat, it will want to take off.
- Right the boat using the centerboard as leverage.
- Get back in the boat and have some more fun. If you don't do this every now and then, you are not pushing it hard enough!
If you can't get to lessons or club races, don't worry and just go out and have fun.
A few more points:
1) Don Guillette's sail trim guide (available from this site) is probably the simplest explaination I've seen on the subject. I'd recommend it.
2) Take a look on this forum for AGP repair issues, there are a few recent posts on the subject. You may or may not have to deal with cracks but they are nothing to be afraid of.
3) If the boat did not come with the owner's manual, think about purchasing one. It's the same as for my 170 and I refer to it constantly.
4) Although my 170 is VERY difficult to capsize, it can happen. Before you do anything else, practice the technique required to get back in the boat:
- Account for all crew
- Release all sheets
- Books don't say this but it's strongly recommended: Everyone should hold on to a dockline or some other part of the boat. Once you right the boat, it will want to take off.
- Right the boat using the centerboard as leverage.
- Get back in the boat and have some more fun. If you don't do this every now and then, you are not pushing it hard enough!
thanks very much TX. This is the information that I wanted. Based on my experience, is a mast float really worth it. Should I tie line around the boat to be able to hold onto once boat comes up? I am more worried about going over than anything else. thanks everyone for all of your help! thanks, ds ( Turtle Man)
One of the great things about this forum is that there are numerous archived threads with great information on just about any topic you can think of. When I bought my 170 it came with just about every option including the mast float. If it did NOT have the float, I would follow the advice given in this thread:
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=100606&highlight=mast+float
and in the knowledge base,
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_kb&Itemid=267&cat_id=11&page=model&mn=170
These are for the 170 but apply to your 146 as well.
The last posting by Tereza in the thread above mentions the use of a masthead windex. That's as good a reason as any to avoid the Hobie bulb (other than the fact that it looks pretty silly).
When you mentioned tying the line around the boat, I'm worried that I gave you the wrong impression regarding capsize recovery. It's absolutly nothing to worry about. I listed the steps above because it's the first thing I go over with any passenger. I also teach the Boy Scout sailing merit badge for my son's troup and we have to practice this so I've been through the process many times. On the 170, however, we have to work VERY hard to force the boat over. I keep a dock line tied to one of the bow cleats at all times for convienence, this is all you need. The Hunter daysailers have high windage so, even with the jib and main sheets released, it could drift away (slowly) once righted.
Don't worry about it! It's nothing that you can't easily recover from, even your first time out.
In any case, it's a good idea to lash anything down that does not float and you do not want to loose.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=100606&highlight=mast+float
and in the knowledge base,
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_kb&Itemid=267&cat_id=11&page=model&mn=170
These are for the 170 but apply to your 146 as well.
The last posting by Tereza in the thread above mentions the use of a masthead windex. That's as good a reason as any to avoid the Hobie bulb (other than the fact that it looks pretty silly).
When you mentioned tying the line around the boat, I'm worried that I gave you the wrong impression regarding capsize recovery. It's absolutly nothing to worry about. I listed the steps above because it's the first thing I go over with any passenger. I also teach the Boy Scout sailing merit badge for my son's troup and we have to practice this so I've been through the process many times. On the 170, however, we have to work VERY hard to force the boat over. I keep a dock line tied to one of the bow cleats at all times for convienence, this is all you need. The Hunter daysailers have high windage so, even with the jib and main sheets released, it could drift away (slowly) once righted.
Don't worry about it! It's nothing that you can't easily recover from, even your first time out.
In any case, it's a good idea to lash anything down that does not float and you do not want to loose.
I would agree with TX. The 146/170 is a fun spacious boat. It may feel like it will capsize sometimes but it really is hard to do. I have had my 170 now for 3 years and taken it out in some real windy conditions and tried to push the limits as I have gained confidence. I have not capsized it yet and I sail it once or twice a week for the entire summer (I almost always sail with crew). I did buy the Hobie float when I bought the boat as insurance and now I wonder about removing it. Of course, I am sure that as soon as I take it off is the time I will capsize.
I would second the comments of others that you take lessons if you can through a club or something. Most sailors love would love to take a newbie out to teach them the ropes. If you can't, I would suggest that you only take it out in lighter wind conditions (5-7 knots) until you become more confident. But avoid very calm days because you will just get frustrated. You want enough wind to be able to feel the boat respond to your actions but not so strong that you have to worry about a wildly swinging boom in the case of an accidental gybe or a capsize (not that a capsize is much to worry about-but you do get wet). Good luck and happy sailing.
I would second the comments of others that you take lessons if you can through a club or something. Most sailors love would love to take a newbie out to teach them the ropes. If you can't, I would suggest that you only take it out in lighter wind conditions (5-7 knots) until you become more confident. But avoid very calm days because you will just get frustrated. You want enough wind to be able to feel the boat respond to your actions but not so strong that you have to worry about a wildly swinging boom in the case of an accidental gybe or a capsize (not that a capsize is much to worry about-but you do get wet). Good luck and happy sailing.
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Just found a 6 inch crack by the drain hole in the cockpit. I will attempt to fix. I looked at other and that gave me an idea. What kind of glue to use? crack does not look very bad. i drilled a small hole on each end.
Look at the second reply in http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=102896, I post a couple links. The second link I posted shows what you need to do. It references Devcon Plastic Welder and, although I've not seen it at Wal-mart (as indicated in the repair manual) I do see it at REAL hardware stores or, strangely enough, at the local Harbor Freight store. It's wonderful stuff.
I just completed repair of a couple minor and one long but non-structural crack and I can state that the repairs work. I would suggest a few things:
- Use wet sanding techniques, they worked better for me.
- Don't use anything other than isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface
- Don't skimp on the V-groove but be careful - the AGP is soft compared to fiberglass resin
- The repair manual starts with 220 sandpaper. Resist the temptation to go lower. I started at 220 and worked up. If you don't paint, you can get a great finish by going up to 1000 or 1500 grit.
- I started to paint as indicated in the repair manual but need to practice my spray can techniques a bit more for good results. I may or may not paint the repairs but if I do I'll use an airbrush instead of a spray can.
The manual also talks about using MarineTex for small surface cracks. I was tempted to use this as the white color would have matched the hull pretty well but I've also seen this delaminate in the past. The Devcon PlasticWeld is wonderful stuff, however, accept no substitutes! If the surface is prepared properly, you will get a very strong repair.
Thanks to whomever runs the Sailing Obsession site where the AGP repair guides are posted!
I just completed repair of a couple minor and one long but non-structural crack and I can state that the repairs work. I would suggest a few things:
- Use wet sanding techniques, they worked better for me.
- Don't use anything other than isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface
- Don't skimp on the V-groove but be careful - the AGP is soft compared to fiberglass resin
- The repair manual starts with 220 sandpaper. Resist the temptation to go lower. I started at 220 and worked up. If you don't paint, you can get a great finish by going up to 1000 or 1500 grit.
- I started to paint as indicated in the repair manual but need to practice my spray can techniques a bit more for good results. I may or may not paint the repairs but if I do I'll use an airbrush instead of a spray can.
The manual also talks about using MarineTex for small surface cracks. I was tempted to use this as the white color would have matched the hull pretty well but I've also seen this delaminate in the past. The Devcon PlasticWeld is wonderful stuff, however, accept no substitutes! If the surface is prepared properly, you will get a very strong repair.
Thanks to whomever runs the Sailing Obsession site where the AGP repair guides are posted!
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thanks again. i am going to print and follow your directions. I can not wait to take it out on the water. I have been looking for a 2.5 hp motor. I found a suzuki for $648 new. I am sure I will be asking more questions in the future. david
I am looking at 2008 146 in absolutely perfect shape. Reading all stories about the CRACKS, I am having mixed fillings about buying this boat. I absolutely love Hunters unusual cockpit designs. But I am not sure if I will have to face the cracks.Did Hunter made any changes on 2008 boats in order to prevent the issues?? I will be storing the boat in the garage when is not in use. As far as I remember, in the past, temperature in the garage didn't go below 40F Will that be enough guaranty not to have trouble??
Thank you
Thank you
An easy way to have a look at what's happening with that crack is to open the inspection hatch behind the transom and stick a little digital camera in there to take some photos. You'll be able to see whats happening underneath the crack.
I just took internal photos on my Hunter 15 (the fibreglass H146) as I want to mount some hardware on the transom and wanted to see the internal structure of the boat.
Cheers and good luck!
PS. re mast floats - I followed Terza's advice in the H146 owner modification section re using pool noodles inside the mast to provide flotation as I too wanted a windex on the masthead. If you do this just make sure you seal all the hardware rivet holes to keep the mast water tight.
I just took internal photos on my Hunter 15 (the fibreglass H146) as I want to mount some hardware on the transom and wanted to see the internal structure of the boat.
Cheers and good luck!
PS. re mast floats - I followed Terza's advice in the H146 owner modification section re using pool noodles inside the mast to provide flotation as I too wanted a windex on the masthead. If you do this just make sure you seal all the hardware rivet holes to keep the mast water tight.
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