I have a 2000 H290 that I have started to race, not too seriously. I'm not doing so good. My biggest problem is light air sailing. I have the stock 110 jib, stock main, and stock prop. My phrf rating is 186 and I continue to be last off the line and last to finish. I've gotten lots of well-intentioned suggestions from spinnakers & gennakers to getting more practice, but none of those people have Hunters, so I was hoping to get some advice from someone who knows Hunters. Does anyone have any suggestions to help me/my boat stand a better chance? Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
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80-20 rule
80% of sailboats that lead at the start line tend to win the race. That's your problem. If you can get to the start line properly, you'll be in the hunt and do just fine.
80% of sailboats that lead at the start line tend to win the race. That's your problem. If you can get to the start line properly, you'll be in the hunt and do just fine.
Light air sailing...
Hunters don't too well in light air. The 110% jib is made so the boats are easy to sail and forgiving. In light air, they just don't give enough sail area. I had a 320, which is close to the 290. The biggest change I made to help in light air was to get a folding prop. It also helps in acceleration on tacks. That advice won't help a lot for this year unless you are pulling your boat out of the water. The next thing I see is the rating. Hunters typically have low ratings, and yours is a joke. My 320 had a PHRF of 186, and it was low. The rating is supposed to be boat performace capailites in 8 knots of air. Your 290 should be around 201 or higher. For that change you need to appeal your rating and be prepared to provide details to justify the change. I can help with that if you want to go through with it. Also, if you are not racing in a true PHRF class, a club rating might be easier to change. My club rating, MORC rating and PHRF ratings were all different last year. Beyond that, pratice, pratice, pratice. Beind out on the water learning to overcome mistakes and stop making them will make the biggest change. If you wnat to put in a large chunk of change to set the boat up for racing, it could be done. For that you will sacrifice some of the cruising comforts. Not recommended because Hunters are not race boats anyway. Drop me a line off-site, and maybe we can come up with a stratigy that can fit your needs and wishes. Steve sestyles@yahoo.com
Hunters don't too well in light air. The 110% jib is made so the boats are easy to sail and forgiving. In light air, they just don't give enough sail area. I had a 320, which is close to the 290. The biggest change I made to help in light air was to get a folding prop. It also helps in acceleration on tacks. That advice won't help a lot for this year unless you are pulling your boat out of the water. The next thing I see is the rating. Hunters typically have low ratings, and yours is a joke. My 320 had a PHRF of 186, and it was low. The rating is supposed to be boat performace capailites in 8 knots of air. Your 290 should be around 201 or higher. For that change you need to appeal your rating and be prepared to provide details to justify the change. I can help with that if you want to go through with it. Also, if you are not racing in a true PHRF class, a club rating might be easier to change. My club rating, MORC rating and PHRF ratings were all different last year. Beyond that, pratice, pratice, pratice. Beind out on the water learning to overcome mistakes and stop making them will make the biggest change. If you wnat to put in a large chunk of change to set the boat up for racing, it could be done. For that you will sacrifice some of the cruising comforts. Not recommended because Hunters are not race boats anyway. Drop me a line off-site, and maybe we can come up with a stratigy that can fit your needs and wishes. Steve sestyles@yahoo.com
Ali, I have a hunter 25.
Ali, To help in in light air I added a 133 genoa and a gennaker for down wind. I have raced at all levels (including national). For the longest time I was a middle of the pack sailor. I would "luck up" and get a second or third once in a while but most of the time I was back in the pack. The best thing that helped me was to ask a pro to sail with me a few times to give me pointers. We started setup and rig tuning. (my mast rake was all wrong) Then we went out on the water. He corrected a few technique problems I had, but most of all he taught me how to feel the boat and understand what the boat was telling me. The next weekend I went to a regatta in Georgia and took First Place. I continued this over the years, learning from those guys that are continuely winning. Hope this helps. Keep roundin them bouys... Ted
Ali, To help in in light air I added a 133 genoa and a gennaker for down wind. I have raced at all levels (including national). For the longest time I was a middle of the pack sailor. I would "luck up" and get a second or third once in a while but most of the time I was back in the pack. The best thing that helped me was to ask a pro to sail with me a few times to give me pointers. We started setup and rig tuning. (my mast rake was all wrong) Then we went out on the water. He corrected a few technique problems I had, but most of all he taught me how to feel the boat and understand what the boat was telling me. The next weekend I went to a regatta in Georgia and took First Place. I continued this over the years, learning from those guys that are continuely winning. Hope this helps. Keep roundin them bouys... Ted
Junk the Fixed Blade Sea Anchor
1. The first no-cost solution is to get to the starting line when the race starts. Every second you loose there counts against you at the end. 2. Next, junk the fixed-blade sea anchor and put on a folding or feathering prop. Before you do, though, try to determine how your boat tracks before the change and then check it after. Pointing is one thing but how the boat tracks over the ground is where it counts and the low-drag prop will really help. 3. Clean bottom - this accomplishes the same thing as the low-drag prop. If you don't have sloughing paint be sure to clean it before every race. 4. Put tell-tails on the leach of the main and use them to help trim. You'll find the main will be further out when sailing upwind or on a reach than the way you're doing it now. 5. Usually a 150 is the maximum non-flying sail you can have without a penalty so for good light-air finishes this will be really needed. Of course the feathering prop is needed even more. 5. Take junk off the boat. The lighter the better. A friend of mine races a Hobbie 33 and uses a porta-pottie. Boat rule is whoever uses it has to empty it. 6. Books: there are a lot of good books out there - find one where you like the authors style and put it to use. Racing - even if you don't win, will really help improve your sailing ability.
1. The first no-cost solution is to get to the starting line when the race starts. Every second you loose there counts against you at the end. 2. Next, junk the fixed-blade sea anchor and put on a folding or feathering prop. Before you do, though, try to determine how your boat tracks before the change and then check it after. Pointing is one thing but how the boat tracks over the ground is where it counts and the low-drag prop will really help. 3. Clean bottom - this accomplishes the same thing as the low-drag prop. If you don't have sloughing paint be sure to clean it before every race. 4. Put tell-tails on the leach of the main and use them to help trim. You'll find the main will be further out when sailing upwind or on a reach than the way you're doing it now. 5. Usually a 150 is the maximum non-flying sail you can have without a penalty so for good light-air finishes this will be really needed. Of course the feathering prop is needed even more. 5. Take junk off the boat. The lighter the better. A friend of mine races a Hobbie 33 and uses a porta-pottie. Boat rule is whoever uses it has to empty it. 6. Books: there are a lot of good books out there - find one where you like the authors style and put it to use. Racing - even if you don't win, will really help improve your sailing ability.
John...It's a 155%
John, A 155% is the largest headsail without penalty. That extra 5% might be just what you need. BTW, good list. Steve
John, A 155% is the largest headsail without penalty. That extra 5% might be just what you need. BTW, good list. Steve
I started with a 155%
But on my hunter the jib tracks aren't long enough to get the 155% to sheet properly so I went with a 133%. Ted
But on my hunter the jib tracks aren't long enough to get the 155% to sheet properly so I went with a 133%. Ted
Jib Tracks
I went with a 135 on my 320, but figured out how to put on tracks for a 155. They are going on my 356 by next week, and I already have the 155. It should help in light air. Steve
I went with a 135 on my 320, but figured out how to put on tracks for a 155. They are going on my 356 by next week, and I already have the 155. It should help in light air. Steve
Not 155??
The largest headsail you can carry without penalty varies for region to region. Some places its 150, others 153, and still others 155. You will need to check with your local PHRF committee. Whatever the max is is what you should be using for optimum performance.
The largest headsail you can carry without penalty varies for region to region. Some places its 150, others 153, and still others 155. You will need to check with your local PHRF committee. Whatever the max is is what you should be using for optimum performance.
Generic 150
Recognizing the various largest headsails required when I said "150" in my post it was intended to mean a "generic 150" without going into all the ramnifications of 150, 153, etc. For discussion it was good to point out that different organizations have rules that vary with regard to the maximum headsail allowed. A local sailmaker of a major loft in the area one intends to race would know what to recommend so that one large headsail could be used in all the local races without being illegal. Budget sails: From a budget standpoint I'd suggest checking with the local area lofts about the availability of good used sails. Sometimes a racer will buy a new suit of sails and want to liquidate the old ones. Occasionally a good used sail will turn up at a siginificant price reduction from new, say as much as 80 to 90%. I've even come across brand new sails where someone goofed on a dimension. To maximumize the number of used sails for consideration sometimes compromises are needed, such as the J might be a little less than you need for maximum sail area or the luff tape would have to be changed. If one is intent on a good finish now then waiting around for a good uses sail, which may take several seasons, might not be worth it.
Recognizing the various largest headsails required when I said "150" in my post it was intended to mean a "generic 150" without going into all the ramnifications of 150, 153, etc. For discussion it was good to point out that different organizations have rules that vary with regard to the maximum headsail allowed. A local sailmaker of a major loft in the area one intends to race would know what to recommend so that one large headsail could be used in all the local races without being illegal. Budget sails: From a budget standpoint I'd suggest checking with the local area lofts about the availability of good used sails. Sometimes a racer will buy a new suit of sails and want to liquidate the old ones. Occasionally a good used sail will turn up at a siginificant price reduction from new, say as much as 80 to 90%. I've even come across brand new sails where someone goofed on a dimension. To maximumize the number of used sails for consideration sometimes compromises are needed, such as the J might be a little less than you need for maximum sail area or the luff tape would have to be changed. If one is intent on a good finish now then waiting around for a good uses sail, which may take several seasons, might not be worth it.
Stop the 150 head sails presses
One thing I hate about HOW is getting miss information. One thing I love about HOW is all the Information. All the talk about a 150 head sail need's to stop. The boat was not designed for a 150 head sail. You will never be able to sheet it in to where it needs to be because of the Spreaders and shrouds they go to the toe rail. Go to the pictures of the boat and look at it. Stock sails will move the boat but they are not racing sail's. You can race with them and you might get lucky and get a good finish every once in a while but they are not the same as a good set of racing sail's. If you want to race and be serious about it you need to change some thing's. A folding prop is a must have for lite air it's like dragging a bucket behind the boat and wondering why you are slow. Roller Furling is a real nice feature, but other than all the way out is slow. Fast and clean bottom is a must have for lite air also. If it is too late to do anything about the bottom go with what you have and do it next season, but get in the water and clean as much growth off of it as you can before every race. That is a MUST DO. So if your in the water and you can not change the bottom or the prop the only thing left to do is the sail's. The sail's on the boat are good for crusing but not so good for racing. Get your sailmaker to the boat is a must do also. Talk about the biggest sail you can get to fit with in the rig, it might be a 128 or a 122 but get the biggest you can that can be trimmed with in the rig. The main will be able to have allot more roach in it. This all means more sail area for the boat and in light air more sail area is king. IF you have roller furling and are looking to buy a new head sail get a head sail that does not need to be used as a roller furling head sail so you pick up all the sail area lost below the roller and it is not cut the same. On my 28.5 the difference between a 150 roller furling head sail and a regular hanked on sail is 43 square feet. In lite air that would be the difference between 1st and 6th. I know you get a credit for a roller furling but it is never enough. So if you want to get better and faster the sail's are a fix that can be done now. The difference will be HUGE. So use your new racing sail's just for racing and use your came with the boat sails for crusing. This way the new sail's will last for allot longer and will be fresh for along time. Cliff Hunter 28.5 "Red Dog"
One thing I hate about HOW is getting miss information. One thing I love about HOW is all the Information. All the talk about a 150 head sail need's to stop. The boat was not designed for a 150 head sail. You will never be able to sheet it in to where it needs to be because of the Spreaders and shrouds they go to the toe rail. Go to the pictures of the boat and look at it. Stock sails will move the boat but they are not racing sail's. You can race with them and you might get lucky and get a good finish every once in a while but they are not the same as a good set of racing sail's. If you want to race and be serious about it you need to change some thing's. A folding prop is a must have for lite air it's like dragging a bucket behind the boat and wondering why you are slow. Roller Furling is a real nice feature, but other than all the way out is slow. Fast and clean bottom is a must have for lite air also. If it is too late to do anything about the bottom go with what you have and do it next season, but get in the water and clean as much growth off of it as you can before every race. That is a MUST DO. So if your in the water and you can not change the bottom or the prop the only thing left to do is the sail's. The sail's on the boat are good for crusing but not so good for racing. Get your sailmaker to the boat is a must do also. Talk about the biggest sail you can get to fit with in the rig, it might be a 128 or a 122 but get the biggest you can that can be trimmed with in the rig. The main will be able to have allot more roach in it. This all means more sail area for the boat and in light air more sail area is king. IF you have roller furling and are looking to buy a new head sail get a head sail that does not need to be used as a roller furling head sail so you pick up all the sail area lost below the roller and it is not cut the same. On my 28.5 the difference between a 150 roller furling head sail and a regular hanked on sail is 43 square feet. In lite air that would be the difference between 1st and 6th. I know you get a credit for a roller furling but it is never enough. So if you want to get better and faster the sail's are a fix that can be done now. The difference will be HUGE. So use your new racing sail's just for racing and use your came with the boat sails for crusing. This way the new sail's will last for allot longer and will be fresh for along time. Cliff Hunter 28.5 "Red Dog"
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