Hi guys, hope your 2014 season was great. I am looking for some help on finding a link to an old post. There was a guy several years ago who hand made a new sole for his boat. He did it by purchasing 4x8 oak plywood, running it through a table saw to cut 1/4 inch grooves in it, then he cut strips of a white wood and glued them into the grooves... Basically to simulate teak and holly. It was beautiful and I am going to do the same on my 42 passage. I have looked but can't find the link. If anyone remembers this post, and can repost a link, it would be greatly appreciated...thank you guys, and have a great holiday season.
New sole... Requesting link to old post
- Thread starter brian3820
- Start date
What About
The different type of wood sold by Defender is one and many others
and it's just like the same type of flooring used on Hunters.
Look here in this forum in search for flooring.
Way better than doing what you are explaining and easy to install and up
keep looks so good and all kinds of choices of different woods and look at defend
as samples and here.
I have the type of flooring like laminate in my H-36 and it is not soft and
if you drop something it won't dent or mark it up it's really like real wood but no
up keep.
Nick
The different type of wood sold by Defender is one and many others
and it's just like the same type of flooring used on Hunters.
Look here in this forum in search for flooring.
Way better than doing what you are explaining and easy to install and up
keep looks so good and all kinds of choices of different woods and look at defend
as samples and here.
I have the type of flooring like laminate in my H-36 and it is not soft and
if you drop something it won't dent or mark it up it's really like real wood but no
up keep.
Nick
Re: What About
Hi Nick,
Thank you for your reply. I have seen the Lonseal products before at the boat show. While they do look very nice, they are essentially vinyl flooring products designed to be glued down to existing wood. In our boat, they still used the teak veneer on all the walls and I have restored all of that to a really great finish. I would like to continue the restoration using the wood on the sole. Most of our sole is in "ok" shape, but I do have a few soft pieces that are the result of leaks that the prior owner never dealt with. I do have a wood shop to recreate these pieces, and the guy I am referring to did an amazing job. In addition, at $ 40 bucks for 1 lineal foot, 6 feet wide... I would have a small fortune in the Lonseal product in our 42. There is a lot of sole in there....
Hi Nick,
Thank you for your reply. I have seen the Lonseal products before at the boat show. While they do look very nice, they are essentially vinyl flooring products designed to be glued down to existing wood. In our boat, they still used the teak veneer on all the walls and I have restored all of that to a really great finish. I would like to continue the restoration using the wood on the sole. Most of our sole is in "ok" shape, but I do have a few soft pieces that are the result of leaks that the prior owner never dealt with. I do have a wood shop to recreate these pieces, and the guy I am referring to did an amazing job. In addition, at $ 40 bucks for 1 lineal foot, 6 feet wide... I would have a small fortune in the Lonseal product in our 42. There is a lot of sole in there....
Another option for your consideration:
I took plain plywood from Home Depot, ran tape strips down(the holly) then stained the rest with mohagany stain( the teak). Much easier than actually cutting and pasting. The result was really not bad either. Picture attached.
I took plain plywood from Home Depot, ran tape strips down(the holly) then stained the rest with mohagany stain( the teak). Much easier than actually cutting and pasting. The result was really not bad either. Picture attached.
Attachments
I used the Mahogany gel stain. We put a strip of the wide blue tape, then used a utility knife to score the exact size of the strips. Then pulled off the excess tape. It actually gives it a look of being separate strips, plus tends to keep the stain off the 'holly'.
We found that using pre cut strips of wood helped to keep everything exact and straight. We had a holly size and a teak size. We clamped each as we worked down the plywood.
Oh, and the idea was stolen from someone else......
We found that using pre cut strips of wood helped to keep everything exact and straight. We had a holly size and a teak size. We clamped each as we worked down the plywood.
Oh, and the idea was stolen from someone else......
New Sole
Hi Brian, the sole on our 1991 P42 remains in good shape. Very little sign of wear and most of it looks like new. If it were my boat I would still go with the more expensive teak holly marine plywood. Just my two cents worth.
Hi Brian, the sole on our 1991 P42 remains in good shape. Very little sign of wear and most of it looks like new. If it were my boat I would still go with the more expensive teak holly marine plywood. Just my two cents worth.
Do NOT go to the homeowner DIY for this.
PLEASE do not use homeowner-grade flooring-adhesion products, such as from HoDePo, et al, for your boat. These are NOT made for adequate protection against the incessant humidity boats live with. Any opportunity for the flooring adhesive to part ways with a plywood subsole, having a tendency to be damp because of the bilge (or moisture lying between the plywood and a fiberglass liner), will admit, welcome, foster and cultivate rot. I say 'will', not 'may' or 'might' or 'theoretically could'.
In my 40-odd years' experience in this business, building boats mainly of wood and wood products, the number-one cause of rotting cabin soles is poor, inadequately-waterproof adhesion between subsole and finished flooring. It's what made my boat a steal to buy; and what nearly everyone who adds oak parquet and other home-quality products to their boats can expect.
The only proper way to do this, on any boat that matters, is with properly-saturated wood products, using WEST or similar epoxy-saturation technique. For example, at Raider Yacht we used flooring cement to attach the foam-backed headliner to the underside of the cabintop. We did NOT use it for the cabin sole at all. That was done with epoxy.
PLEASE do not use homeowner-grade flooring-adhesion products, such as from HoDePo, et al, for your boat. These are NOT made for adequate protection against the incessant humidity boats live with. Any opportunity for the flooring adhesive to part ways with a plywood subsole, having a tendency to be damp because of the bilge (or moisture lying between the plywood and a fiberglass liner), will admit, welcome, foster and cultivate rot. I say 'will', not 'may' or 'might' or 'theoretically could'.
In my 40-odd years' experience in this business, building boats mainly of wood and wood products, the number-one cause of rotting cabin soles is poor, inadequately-waterproof adhesion between subsole and finished flooring. It's what made my boat a steal to buy; and what nearly everyone who adds oak parquet and other home-quality products to their boats can expect.
The only proper way to do this, on any boat that matters, is with properly-saturated wood products, using WEST or similar epoxy-saturation technique. For example, at Raider Yacht we used flooring cement to attach the foam-backed headliner to the underside of the cabintop. We did NOT use it for the cabin sole at all. That was done with epoxy.