Just bought a 87' 23ft hunter and was wondering, does anyone have a better idea of raising and lowering the mast? Raising wasn't bad, but lowering, I lost control of it and bounced the mast off the pavement. I really don't want to do this again! thanks John After posting I checked out the archives, some good info. Ward Niffenegger thanks, will be building your tripod this winter.
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mike
much info here
Ward's got the system down. Tripod's a great idea. Much info in the archives. But I still think the stepping plank is a simple device that saves much acrobatics and prevents dropping through your plexi roof. Simply build a ramp that bridges your transom to your cabin roof. Then you simple walk up or down with the mast. No jumping about in the boat.
Ward's got the system down. Tripod's a great idea. Much info in the archives. But I still think the stepping plank is a simple device that saves much acrobatics and prevents dropping through your plexi roof. Simply build a ramp that bridges your transom to your cabin roof. Then you simple walk up or down with the mast. No jumping about in the boat.
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Peter
Which Lake Monroe?
Indiana or Florida? If you're in Florida I can show you my mast-raising rig which is very easy for one person to use. I don't have any pictures just yet. Total cost about $30. Peter H23 "Raven"
Indiana or Florida? If you're in Florida I can show you my mast-raising rig which is very easy for one person to use. I don't have any pictures just yet. Total cost about $30. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Alex Kowblansky
Peter of "Raven" please share info on rig
Peter, I am also a new H23 owner. Could you share the design of you mast raising rig. I have reviewed info in the archives concerning mast stepping and am trying to decide on the most efficient mechanism. Both "tripodS" and a "transom to compainionway ramp" sound interesting. Thanks Alex 1990 H23
Peter, I am also a new H23 owner. Could you share the design of you mast raising rig. I have reviewed info in the archives concerning mast stepping and am trying to decide on the most efficient mechanism. Both "tripodS" and a "transom to compainionway ramp" sound interesting. Thanks Alex 1990 H23
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Peter
Single-handed mast raising rig (for Alex)
The rig was made from two 10 ft long top rails for chain link fencing. They were cut off so that when laid on the deck, each would reach from the midship lifeline stanchion (closest to the mast base) to the center of the anchor locker just behind the wire bridle for the forestay. The ends were flattened by beating them on a block of wood with a sledgehammer. Holes were drilled at each end for bolts (I used 5/16 but 1/4 should be fine). 7/8" hangers for electrical conduit (they have a rubber cushion) were placed around each lifeline stanchion. A bolt was then passed through the aft end of each rail, through the bolt hole in the hanger (you may have to open this hole a little with a grinder or Dremel tool...do not use a drill). Secure the bolt and hanger with a wing nut. The two forward ends are bolted together, with two stainless steel rigging tangs between them (about $5 each at West Marine) and another wing nut. The result is an A-frame of sorts that pivots at the stanchions with two tangs at the apex. Now to raise the mast. Slide the mast aft on the aft roller, drop the base into the bracket on the deck and pin it. A bungee about midway between the spreaders and the mast base will keep the shrouds under control (the t-ball fittings at the upper ends tend to fall out when the mast is horizontal). Assemble the A-frame, bolt it to the lifeline stanchions, lay it on the deck and attach the jib halyard shackle to one of the tangs. Remove the mainsheet tackle from the boom and traveler (snap shackles will speed this up) and rig it between the jib tack pendant in the anchor locker and the other tang at the apex of the A-frame. Go to the mast base and pull on the jib halyard. The A-frame should rise off the deck and pull the mainsheet tackle with it. Make sure the mainsheet is free to run. When the A-frame is perpendicular to the mast, stop and secure the jib halyard properly. This is very important because if the jib halyard slips, you will lose the mast. Now pull in the mainsheet. If you have plenty of mainsheet, you can stand aft of the mast base and help guide the mast as it goes up. The A-frame will come back down to the deck and pull the mast up very easily. If you need to stop part way up (e.g. to free a shroud) just cleat off the mainsheet. There is very little load in the system at this point and the A-frame is stable. The mast may swing a bit but not enough to be a concern. As the mast becomes vertical, pull harder on the mainsheet to overcome then tension in the shrouds and backstay. This makes it easier to fasten the forestay at the turnbuckle (probably the worst part of the whole operation). Once the forestay is secure, ease the mainsheet and then the jib halyard. Lowering the mast is the exact reverse. I've raised the mast by myself in less than 10 min and lowered it alone in 40 mph crosswinds without mishap. I wish I had some pictures. Maybe I'll take some over the Christmas break. I hope this helps. Good luck. Peter h23 "Raven"
The rig was made from two 10 ft long top rails for chain link fencing. They were cut off so that when laid on the deck, each would reach from the midship lifeline stanchion (closest to the mast base) to the center of the anchor locker just behind the wire bridle for the forestay. The ends were flattened by beating them on a block of wood with a sledgehammer. Holes were drilled at each end for bolts (I used 5/16 but 1/4 should be fine). 7/8" hangers for electrical conduit (they have a rubber cushion) were placed around each lifeline stanchion. A bolt was then passed through the aft end of each rail, through the bolt hole in the hanger (you may have to open this hole a little with a grinder or Dremel tool...do not use a drill). Secure the bolt and hanger with a wing nut. The two forward ends are bolted together, with two stainless steel rigging tangs between them (about $5 each at West Marine) and another wing nut. The result is an A-frame of sorts that pivots at the stanchions with two tangs at the apex. Now to raise the mast. Slide the mast aft on the aft roller, drop the base into the bracket on the deck and pin it. A bungee about midway between the spreaders and the mast base will keep the shrouds under control (the t-ball fittings at the upper ends tend to fall out when the mast is horizontal). Assemble the A-frame, bolt it to the lifeline stanchions, lay it on the deck and attach the jib halyard shackle to one of the tangs. Remove the mainsheet tackle from the boom and traveler (snap shackles will speed this up) and rig it between the jib tack pendant in the anchor locker and the other tang at the apex of the A-frame. Go to the mast base and pull on the jib halyard. The A-frame should rise off the deck and pull the mainsheet tackle with it. Make sure the mainsheet is free to run. When the A-frame is perpendicular to the mast, stop and secure the jib halyard properly. This is very important because if the jib halyard slips, you will lose the mast. Now pull in the mainsheet. If you have plenty of mainsheet, you can stand aft of the mast base and help guide the mast as it goes up. The A-frame will come back down to the deck and pull the mast up very easily. If you need to stop part way up (e.g. to free a shroud) just cleat off the mainsheet. There is very little load in the system at this point and the A-frame is stable. The mast may swing a bit but not enough to be a concern. As the mast becomes vertical, pull harder on the mainsheet to overcome then tension in the shrouds and backstay. This makes it easier to fasten the forestay at the turnbuckle (probably the worst part of the whole operation). Once the forestay is secure, ease the mainsheet and then the jib halyard. Lowering the mast is the exact reverse. I've raised the mast by myself in less than 10 min and lowered it alone in 40 mph crosswinds without mishap. I wish I had some pictures. Maybe I'll take some over the Christmas break. I hope this helps. Good luck. Peter h23 "Raven"
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Alex Kowblansky
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