I recently purchased a MacGregor 22-2.I have begun taking sailing lessons and have found that I love it. My question to anyone who would help is this.I would like to know what is the best way to rig the main and jib to sail this boat by myself to make it easiest on myself and safest? Thanks
New sail boating owner needs help.
- Thread starter Kyventure 222
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Lines Aft
One thing you can do to keep yourself off the cabin top is to run as many lines as you can aft to the cockpit. MacGregors are pretty simple boats, really all you need to worry about would be your halyards, and a down-haul line on your headsail would be nice if you need to douse it in a hurry in some high winds. There are other things you can do like jiffy reefing. I sailed my Mac 25 several times single-handed last summer/fall with the halyards tied off at the mast and didn't have any problems, you can "hove to" to make adjustments like reefing or dousing sails, but a solo sailor is definitely safer staying in the cockpit. I have started collecting equipment to run my lines aft and plan to have it all installed prior to sailing season this year. You can find all sorts of info and photos on running lines aft on the internet, go to the modification page at the macsailors.com web site, you can buy the equipment from any marine purveyor that offers sailboat rigging. One company that has kits for newer Macs, Blue Water Yachts (Washington state), might be able to set you up with what you need.
One thing you can do to keep yourself off the cabin top is to run as many lines as you can aft to the cockpit. MacGregors are pretty simple boats, really all you need to worry about would be your halyards, and a down-haul line on your headsail would be nice if you need to douse it in a hurry in some high winds. There are other things you can do like jiffy reefing. I sailed my Mac 25 several times single-handed last summer/fall with the halyards tied off at the mast and didn't have any problems, you can "hove to" to make adjustments like reefing or dousing sails, but a solo sailor is definitely safer staying in the cockpit. I have started collecting equipment to run my lines aft and plan to have it all installed prior to sailing season this year. You can find all sorts of info and photos on running lines aft on the internet, go to the modification page at the macsailors.com web site, you can buy the equipment from any marine purveyor that offers sailboat rigging. One company that has kits for newer Macs, Blue Water Yachts (Washington state), might be able to set you up with what you need.
A few simple things, depends on what you have
KY, it depends on what you have. If you have the classic clip on jib there are two ways to go. 1. Add a jib dowser; a line through an eye and up through the jib hanks to the top of the jib. Run this line back to the cockpit so when you need the jib dropped you can loosen the halyard and pull the jib down on to the deck from the cockpit. 2. Add a roller furler, for the boat you have a CDI FF2 would be just fine and the cheapest way to go. This would allow you to set the jib from the cockpit. A genoa would be better than a standard jib allowing you more sail for light winds. 3. Run all lines back to the cockpit and possibly the addition of self tailing winches to the cockpit coamings. 4. A cheap autopilot to hold the tiller for a few moments would be a great addition. There are several; "tiller tamer" is one but do a search. You can also just use a line with a loop in the middle tied to each side of the cockpit if you need both hands free. There is a simple line approach to have the tiller self steered from the main but as you read up on ideas you'll run into this, the tiller tamer is cheaper and results in fewer lines running around. 5. Keep an anchor in or near the cockpit area or lazarette so you can drop anchor from the cockpit and not have to run up to the bow. You can walk the line up there if you wish but after you've dropped it over the side. 6. Certainly a topping lift to hold the boom up when you drop the main sail. 7. Some good sail ties that work for you to manage the main when it's down. There are main sail containment systems but for a trailer sailor (I assume it's not docked or moored) they are more problematic than helpful. Hope some of this helps, there are many more hints but keep asking questions and look at the other boats for ideas of what works and what doesn't. Sailors are a helpful lot and will give you more than you want if you ask them. Steve P.
KY, it depends on what you have. If you have the classic clip on jib there are two ways to go. 1. Add a jib dowser; a line through an eye and up through the jib hanks to the top of the jib. Run this line back to the cockpit so when you need the jib dropped you can loosen the halyard and pull the jib down on to the deck from the cockpit. 2. Add a roller furler, for the boat you have a CDI FF2 would be just fine and the cheapest way to go. This would allow you to set the jib from the cockpit. A genoa would be better than a standard jib allowing you more sail for light winds. 3. Run all lines back to the cockpit and possibly the addition of self tailing winches to the cockpit coamings. 4. A cheap autopilot to hold the tiller for a few moments would be a great addition. There are several; "tiller tamer" is one but do a search. You can also just use a line with a loop in the middle tied to each side of the cockpit if you need both hands free. There is a simple line approach to have the tiller self steered from the main but as you read up on ideas you'll run into this, the tiller tamer is cheaper and results in fewer lines running around. 5. Keep an anchor in or near the cockpit area or lazarette so you can drop anchor from the cockpit and not have to run up to the bow. You can walk the line up there if you wish but after you've dropped it over the side. 6. Certainly a topping lift to hold the boom up when you drop the main sail. 7. Some good sail ties that work for you to manage the main when it's down. There are main sail containment systems but for a trailer sailor (I assume it's not docked or moored) they are more problematic than helpful. Hope some of this helps, there are many more hints but keep asking questions and look at the other boats for ideas of what works and what doesn't. Sailors are a helpful lot and will give you more than you want if you ask them. Steve P.
Kyventure 222 Needs Help response
Thank you very much for the response on rigging for single handed sailing. Both articles have been helpful. I will try them all. As well as check out similar boats. Thanks Again
Thank you very much for the response on rigging for single handed sailing. Both articles have been helpful. I will try them all. As well as check out similar boats. Thanks Again
Can't find macsailors .com
Can't find anything on the macsailors.com do you have a link you can post.
Can't find anything on the macsailors.com do you have a link you can post.
Lines aft
KY, The responses have been right on. I single-hand my 222 more often than not and it can be very safe if you do a few things. As has already been stated, run your lines aft. The main and jib halyard are most important and I would recommend a downhaul for the headsail. The last thing you want is to be kneeling on the fore deck in high winds trying to pull the jib down while you’re single-handed. I would also recommend installing sail slugs. With these few mods you can raise and lower both sails without leaving the cockpit. Another idea would be to use a jack line (line run from bow to cockpit) so if you have to leave the cockpit you can clip on when the winds are high. Mike
KY, The responses have been right on. I single-hand my 222 more often than not and it can be very safe if you do a few things. As has already been stated, run your lines aft. The main and jib halyard are most important and I would recommend a downhaul for the headsail. The last thing you want is to be kneeling on the fore deck in high winds trying to pull the jib down while you’re single-handed. I would also recommend installing sail slugs. With these few mods you can raise and lower both sails without leaving the cockpit. Another idea would be to use a jack line (line run from bow to cockpit) so if you have to leave the cockpit you can clip on when the winds are high. Mike
Roller Furling
I can cite any number of reasons for not having already purchased a furling headsail system, like better performance with hank-on sails, fear of things jamming in high winds, being too lazy to set it up when it arrives, etc. ad nauseum. Main reason is cost. I've got three perfectly good hank-on headsails. My Genoa has at least several years of life left in it. I also still have the reflexes of a cat and don't sweat being on the cabin top all that much, though I realize it's safer if I'm in the cockpit. If I've still got Abby when it's time to get a new Genny, I might splurge for the extra to get a furling system. I figure by the time it's all said and done, it's $1000 and that's if you go with the cheap furler that YY advises so strongly against. To speed up headsail changes, I've got two sets of jib sheets. They have a carbiners on the ends so I don't have to fuss with running new sheets through the fairleads and cleats. I've only tried running the jib through the cabin top fairleads once and didn't like it as well. However, I'm planning on replacing the horn cleats with cam cleats or jam cleats, if I like it better that way, I'll follow at a later date with tracks for that particular sheet routing and I'll leave the jib sheet run through that route at all times and just click on through my carbiner. (Yes YY, I'm using stainless screw type carbiners). I've done several headsail changes single-handed without the benefit of a downhaul on the headsail, though that will change this season. Granted there is a very good convenience and safety benefit to having a furling headsail, but I also watched a couple of close friends struggle with balky furling systems and eventually tear up headsails during a sudden front we got in October that brought 40 kt. winds. I already had my sails doused and under motor as they were struggling to get to protected coves to douse their sails. Since you are taking lessons, have your instructor go through "heaving to" or being "hove to", that maneuver can be a single-hand sailor's best friend. It's real simple and gives you a break to use the head, change a sail, or just sit in the cockpit and lime for a half hour or whatever.
I can cite any number of reasons for not having already purchased a furling headsail system, like better performance with hank-on sails, fear of things jamming in high winds, being too lazy to set it up when it arrives, etc. ad nauseum. Main reason is cost. I've got three perfectly good hank-on headsails. My Genoa has at least several years of life left in it. I also still have the reflexes of a cat and don't sweat being on the cabin top all that much, though I realize it's safer if I'm in the cockpit. If I've still got Abby when it's time to get a new Genny, I might splurge for the extra to get a furling system. I figure by the time it's all said and done, it's $1000 and that's if you go with the cheap furler that YY advises so strongly against. To speed up headsail changes, I've got two sets of jib sheets. They have a carbiners on the ends so I don't have to fuss with running new sheets through the fairleads and cleats. I've only tried running the jib through the cabin top fairleads once and didn't like it as well. However, I'm planning on replacing the horn cleats with cam cleats or jam cleats, if I like it better that way, I'll follow at a later date with tracks for that particular sheet routing and I'll leave the jib sheet run through that route at all times and just click on through my carbiner. (Yes YY, I'm using stainless screw type carbiners). I've done several headsail changes single-handed without the benefit of a downhaul on the headsail, though that will change this season. Granted there is a very good convenience and safety benefit to having a furling headsail, but I also watched a couple of close friends struggle with balky furling systems and eventually tear up headsails during a sudden front we got in October that brought 40 kt. winds. I already had my sails doused and under motor as they were struggling to get to protected coves to douse their sails. Since you are taking lessons, have your instructor go through "heaving to" or being "hove to", that maneuver can be a single-hand sailor's best friend. It's real simple and gives you a break to use the head, change a sail, or just sit in the cockpit and lime for a half hour or whatever.
More opinions on furling
I've spent a lot of time considering, some money, and installation time in the last month prepping my Mac26D for single-handing and safer sailing with my mostly non-sailing family. I've heard all the arguments against roller furling and I'm certainly not going to counter them point-for-point, many are right on. BUT, I will say that I've sailed on several other boats that use roller furling (CDI, by the way). Various sizes from a 32' down to the 22' Catalina I took lessons on in SF Bay (now THERE are strong winds!) I've never either had or witnessed a problem with them. All equipment can fail, so of course a furler could have trouble. But every time I've been on a boat with roller furling I've been envious of the freedom and flexibility it gives. I just installed mine last weekend. Raising the mast was a "little" more trouble, but not bad at all. Granted, I leave my mast stepped so that's less a consideration for me. But when I'm sailing alone or with my family in my area, which often blows 20+ in the afternoon, I don't want to have to go up to a pitching foredeck to raise or lower a flapping jib if I can avoid it. The ability to reef it a bit is also very convenient.
I've spent a lot of time considering, some money, and installation time in the last month prepping my Mac26D for single-handing and safer sailing with my mostly non-sailing family. I've heard all the arguments against roller furling and I'm certainly not going to counter them point-for-point, many are right on. BUT, I will say that I've sailed on several other boats that use roller furling (CDI, by the way). Various sizes from a 32' down to the 22' Catalina I took lessons on in SF Bay (now THERE are strong winds!) I've never either had or witnessed a problem with them. All equipment can fail, so of course a furler could have trouble. But every time I've been on a boat with roller furling I've been envious of the freedom and flexibility it gives. I just installed mine last weekend. Raising the mast was a "little" more trouble, but not bad at all. Granted, I leave my mast stepped so that's less a consideration for me. But when I'm sailing alone or with my family in my area, which often blows 20+ in the afternoon, I don't want to have to go up to a pitching foredeck to raise or lower a flapping jib if I can avoid it. The ability to reef it a bit is also very convenient.
jib sheets
One post referred to cleating the jib on the cabin top. I use a hanked on working jib, about 100%, might be a 110. This works well in most conditions including lighter air, and handles the puffs well also. I started using the cleats on the top and much prefer this for the small jib. These offer much better shape than running the sheets back to the winches. I swtiched to Harken Carbo cam cleats with the fairleads that allow cleating from an angle. I can pop loose a sheet and cleat the opposite sheet and not move from where I am sitting. Much faster and way more convenient than changing from winch to winch. This system allows better performance closehauled also. Off wind it constricts the shape compared to the winches. You could add barber haulers or switch to a second set of sheets if you were on a long reach.
One post referred to cleating the jib on the cabin top. I use a hanked on working jib, about 100%, might be a 110. This works well in most conditions including lighter air, and handles the puffs well also. I started using the cleats on the top and much prefer this for the small jib. These offer much better shape than running the sheets back to the winches. I swtiched to Harken Carbo cam cleats with the fairleads that allow cleating from an angle. I can pop loose a sheet and cleat the opposite sheet and not move from where I am sitting. Much faster and way more convenient than changing from winch to winch. This system allows better performance closehauled also. Off wind it constricts the shape compared to the winches. You could add barber haulers or switch to a second set of sheets if you were on a long reach.
Boom Furling
The Mac 25 is advertised as having "boom furling". Most of us have modified our booms with bails for a vang and re-locating the mainsheet attachment point. If you still have an "all stock" set up on your boom with no vang on earlier Macs, all you have to do is undo the thumbscrew at the goosneck, and roll it up like a window shade, while attached to your pig tail on the backstay. That would be pretty balky and you would need to remove your battens as you roll it up. When you get to the point you want to furl it, screw the thumbscrew back in. Sail shape would be suspect at best, and you'd also lose any outhaul capabilities. Of course the design of earlier Macs isn't supposed to be as adjustible or complex as a J-boat racer. They are designed for simple weekend sailors who don't care if they are giving up half a knot here or there. I really don't like the look of the CDI main furler system, but I suppose it's an acceptible alternative to the higher cost of in boom or in mast furling.
The Mac 25 is advertised as having "boom furling". Most of us have modified our booms with bails for a vang and re-locating the mainsheet attachment point. If you still have an "all stock" set up on your boom with no vang on earlier Macs, all you have to do is undo the thumbscrew at the goosneck, and roll it up like a window shade, while attached to your pig tail on the backstay. That would be pretty balky and you would need to remove your battens as you roll it up. When you get to the point you want to furl it, screw the thumbscrew back in. Sail shape would be suspect at best, and you'd also lose any outhaul capabilities. Of course the design of earlier Macs isn't supposed to be as adjustible or complex as a J-boat racer. They are designed for simple weekend sailors who don't care if they are giving up half a knot here or there. I really don't like the look of the CDI main furler system, but I suppose it's an acceptible alternative to the higher cost of in boom or in mast furling.
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