I recently put a new rudder/rudder post in my boat. We did it with the boat in the water. The steering is considerably stiffer than it was with the old rudder. I am sure the older one was worn to some extent. Any suggestions for what I can do to loosen up the steering? Can I put PB Blaster (or the like) on the top nut of the stuffing box when the flax is? Other ideas?
New Rudder - Stiffer Steering??
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PB Blaster is most likely not good for the
stuffing material if you have a packing gland on your rudder tube. Read the label...
Yup, more info would be very helpful.
stuffing material if you have a packing gland on your rudder tube. Read the label...
Yup, more info would be very helpful.
FYI—
Be careful with PBlaster, as it is a relatively aggressive solvent and might do damage to synthetic or plastic bearings that are often used in some boat rudder setups. Chances are pretty good that the stiffness is due to the new bearings/rudder post, and as such will loosen up as the rudder gets worked in.
Be careful with PBlaster, as it is a relatively aggressive solvent and might do damage to synthetic or plastic bearings that are often used in some boat rudder setups. Chances are pretty good that the stiffness is due to the new bearings/rudder post, and as such will loosen up as the rudder gets worked in.
what is making it stiffer?
1. If it's the stuffing tube that's making it stiffer, and it really is too stiff, I would just loosen the bolts at the top of the stuffing box. Don't worry, the boat won't sink while you're doing this, in fact, on mine I think the gland is above the water line, so it's just a splash-seal. Loosen them all the way, noting the initial torque, then bring them back down, just not all the way. Work the rudder back and forth. Better?
2. Maybe the steering cables are too tight.
3. Maybe there's an obstruction somewhere.
4. Maybe the steering gear was put back wrong, and a couple of cables are crossed incorrectly. Does it make any noise? A grinding sound, or feeling?
5. Below-decks autopilot drive unit binding, due to misalignment? Partially seized?
1. If it's the stuffing tube that's making it stiffer, and it really is too stiff, I would just loosen the bolts at the top of the stuffing box. Don't worry, the boat won't sink while you're doing this, in fact, on mine I think the gland is above the water line, so it's just a splash-seal. Loosen them all the way, noting the initial torque, then bring them back down, just not all the way. Work the rudder back and forth. Better?
2. Maybe the steering cables are too tight.
3. Maybe there's an obstruction somewhere.
4. Maybe the steering gear was put back wrong, and a couple of cables are crossed incorrectly. Does it make any noise? A grinding sound, or feeling?
5. Below-decks autopilot drive unit binding, due to misalignment? Partially seized?
Do you know for a fact that the profile of the two rudders is the same? A small change can make a big difference in feel. Especially if the new rudder has a little less surface in front of the steer tube
Great responses. Here is some more info on the boat/rudder/steering. The steering is a Destroyer type pedestal wheel in the cockpit with chain and pull/pull cables to a bronze quadrant via sheaves. The rudder is skeg hung with an external bronze gudgeon fitting.
We shipped the old rudder so the company could make an identical replacement. The steering is tight with the autopilot disconnected. All cables are properly aligned on the pulleys all the way to the steering quadrant. We marked the cables prior to disconnecting them originally so we could put them back identically.
I am sure the new rudder is probably a thousandth bigger than the old one due to the older be worn/used over the years. Thanks for all of the response. I will try some of them and see if anything changes prior to simply using the boat more and seeing if it loosen up some.
One other question here. At the same time we are putting the new rudder in we are fixing the autopilot. The computer on it went bad prior to the rudder change. We are using parts from other autopilots to try to fix this one. My friend thinks the stiffness of the steering is preventing the autopilot from holding a course. It is an Autohelm 60000. Does that make sense?
Thanks again for all of the responses.
We shipped the old rudder so the company could make an identical replacement. The steering is tight with the autopilot disconnected. All cables are properly aligned on the pulleys all the way to the steering quadrant. We marked the cables prior to disconnecting them originally so we could put them back identically.
I am sure the new rudder is probably a thousandth bigger than the old one due to the older be worn/used over the years. Thanks for all of the response. I will try some of them and see if anything changes prior to simply using the boat more and seeing if it loosen up some.
One other question here. At the same time we are putting the new rudder in we are fixing the autopilot. The computer on it went bad prior to the rudder change. We are using parts from other autopilots to try to fix this one. My friend thinks the stiffness of the steering is preventing the autopilot from holding a course. It is an Autohelm 60000. Does that make sense?
Thanks again for all of the responses.
Great info. My guess is a misalignment of the gudgeon/pintle to the rudder shaft, and, until it wears-in, if it ever does, it will be stiff. I would look into this, as it could result in something breaking or binding, with potential loss of steering.
Yes, the autopilot could have trouble if the steering is too stiff, as it could slow it down.
This week I will go overboard and check the bolts holding the gudgeon. Perhaps when my friend put the rudder back on he did not tighten the bolts down equally thus creating what you are describing. Do you also think it could be on the topside in the stuffing box which we replaced. I would think since those bolts are pretty well set in place (location and the stuffing box placed in a layer of 5200) it could not be that do you think it could be? THANKS!
Cover the pintles with Magic Marker ink. Put the rudder back in place, work it to and fro, and then see where the ink has worn off.
OK GOOD NEWS - Whomever said to loosen the stuffing box bolts and see what happens (jviss I think) wins the prize. Right after I did that, the steering loosened up and although not like originally, it is a ton better. The only downside is it leaks a little at the bolts. If I tighten them back up, the steering tightens back up. Ideas? Also, I am going to still go over and see if I loosen the bolts holding the gudgeon in place to see if I can obtain the same results. Then I can tighten down the bolts topside to get rid of the leak.
Thanks again everyone!
Thanks again everyone!
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