I am thinking of replacing the continuous line Hood roller furler on my 1992 Hunter 33.5 with an above-deck, single line roller furler. To do so will require me to have the anchor hatch cover cut to vaoit it hitting the roller furler drum when the hatch is opened. Here are my questions: Has anyone out there replaced a continuous line roller furler with a single line unit? If so, what manufacturer's roller furler did you select, and what has been your experience with the new unit? Did you install a unit with the drum above deck, and did the installation require modifications to the anchor locker hatch to accommodate the roller furler drum? Any help or thhoughts on this subject would be appreciated. Pictures showing new units installed would be greatly welcomed. Mike
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Steve D
What about upgrading your existing one?
Michael: What about upgrading your continous line system to a single line system. I think it costs about $500. vs. $1200-2000 for a new one
Michael: What about upgrading your continous line system to a single line system. I think it costs about $500. vs. $1200-2000 for a new one
Furler
If you have the Hood 810LD furler, as I do, the upgrade to the single line system is $522.76. You'll also need a new furling line. I wouldn't buy the line on the Hood site as the price is absurd ($167 -- yikes!). I think you could buy about 80 ft of 5/16th inch double braid and strip about 25ft of core from the part of the line going around the drum. I haven't done this job myself yet, but am thinking about it. It appears to be a straight forward DIY project involving swapping out the drums. But this upgrade only makes sense if your foil and upper swivel are in great condition. See link below. If you do this upgrade, let us know how it works out.
If you have the Hood 810LD furler, as I do, the upgrade to the single line system is $522.76. You'll also need a new furling line. I wouldn't buy the line on the Hood site as the price is absurd ($167 -- yikes!). I think you could buy about 80 ft of 5/16th inch double braid and strip about 25ft of core from the part of the line going around the drum. I haven't done this job myself yet, but am thinking about it. It appears to be a straight forward DIY project involving swapping out the drums. But this upgrade only makes sense if your foil and upper swivel are in great condition. See link below. If you do this upgrade, let us know how it works out.
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Rick Sylvester
Frankly, I've never understood
this business of putting the drum below deck and hidden in the anchor locker. Sure, it looks clean but you won't care when things go really wrong. Move it above deck. If it's in the way of the locker lid or ground tackle it should be moved up not down. The amount of sail area you'll lose is negligible and if you're a serious racer you'll want a detachable drum unit (like a Reckmann) so you can have that deck sweeper when you want it. For most of us, however, the key issue is accessibilty. If you get a serious override or have a mechanical problem with the drum it'll happen when it's blowing stink and the bow is heaving. That is NOT when you want to have to open the anchor locker up, move that rode out of the way and work at arms length on a problem that you may not be able to see, let alone reach. Accessibilty is another reason I don't care for enclosed drum units (like Furlex.) My vote is to get the drum above deck as far as it needs to go. Believe me, you'll be glad you did when the time comes. As always, my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it!
this business of putting the drum below deck and hidden in the anchor locker. Sure, it looks clean but you won't care when things go really wrong. Move it above deck. If it's in the way of the locker lid or ground tackle it should be moved up not down. The amount of sail area you'll lose is negligible and if you're a serious racer you'll want a detachable drum unit (like a Reckmann) so you can have that deck sweeper when you want it. For most of us, however, the key issue is accessibilty. If you get a serious override or have a mechanical problem with the drum it'll happen when it's blowing stink and the bow is heaving. That is NOT when you want to have to open the anchor locker up, move that rode out of the way and work at arms length on a problem that you may not be able to see, let alone reach. Accessibilty is another reason I don't care for enclosed drum units (like Furlex.) My vote is to get the drum above deck as far as it needs to go. Believe me, you'll be glad you did when the time comes. As always, my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it!
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bob shultz
harken is great
The previous owner had changed the roller furling to Harken and raised it out of the locker above deck. It works great. I have never had a problem with it. In regards to the furling not allowing the anchor hatch to open completely I removed the hinges and secured the lid with a six foot line so that it can be removed and not lost overboard. Good luck.
The previous owner had changed the roller furling to Harken and raised it out of the locker above deck. It works great. I have never had a problem with it. In regards to the furling not allowing the anchor hatch to open completely I removed the hinges and secured the lid with a six foot line so that it can be removed and not lost overboard. Good luck.
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Alan
Rick
I've had a below decks Profurl system on my 35.5 for 11 years. Never had any problem with it. And yes, I can have my decksweepers on it for racing and never have to deal with the furler, just the luff foil. In fact, if you're racing you can't use the furler because you can't change head sails with any furler unless you're willing to go headless (which is REALLY slow). We do inside and outside peels and never a problem. Moving it on deck would not allow for the deck sweepers with absolutely no gain, only detriment. As to overrides on the drum, I've never had one. In fact never had any kind of problem with furling,...guess that's why they use the Profurl on the BOC, Whitbread and most transoceanic races.
I've had a below decks Profurl system on my 35.5 for 11 years. Never had any problem with it. And yes, I can have my decksweepers on it for racing and never have to deal with the furler, just the luff foil. In fact, if you're racing you can't use the furler because you can't change head sails with any furler unless you're willing to go headless (which is REALLY slow). We do inside and outside peels and never a problem. Moving it on deck would not allow for the deck sweepers with absolutely no gain, only detriment. As to overrides on the drum, I've never had one. In fact never had any kind of problem with furling,...guess that's why they use the Profurl on the BOC, Whitbread and most transoceanic races.
Can't disagree with what you say Alan
but that wasn't my point. My point was (and is) that a couple of overly loose turns on that drum can easily happen in a moment of distraction. It's my contention that it's not an overly rare occurance in general. If, or when, it happens it's simply a great deal easier to deal with when it's more accessible. It's great that you've never had a seriously jammed override or a lower unit that developed a bearing problem. I only made my observations because I had to help a friend with a 35.5 (and a below deck drum) who had exactly that happen (the drum bound up) and I assure you it was made more difficult to deal with by being much less accessible. There's no question the Profurl is a fine unit (as are most of the big name furlers) but it's been my experience that furling problems are result of crew not properly tensioning the furling line and/or the line not being led properly and not the particular brand involved. You clearly have a good crew who doesn't create problems and good on ya for it. There's no doubt that deck sweeper will gain you a few seconds per mile and for a serious racer it's an important consideration. However, for those who use their boats primarily for cruising the additional performance gain may not be worth the loss in visibility going to windward and the potential difficulties in clearing that fouled or disabled below decks furler. It is indeed a call every owner must make for themselves. I don't think Hunter primarily builds their boats as racers so, again, I'm a little mystified by the whole below decks placement thing. Yes, the 35.5 is a great boat that can be raced very successfully but I mean really, does a Passage 420 really need that drum tucked away? My mention of the removeable drum units was just a shot at having your cake and eating it too. Anyway, best regards.
but that wasn't my point. My point was (and is) that a couple of overly loose turns on that drum can easily happen in a moment of distraction. It's my contention that it's not an overly rare occurance in general. If, or when, it happens it's simply a great deal easier to deal with when it's more accessible. It's great that you've never had a seriously jammed override or a lower unit that developed a bearing problem. I only made my observations because I had to help a friend with a 35.5 (and a below deck drum) who had exactly that happen (the drum bound up) and I assure you it was made more difficult to deal with by being much less accessible. There's no question the Profurl is a fine unit (as are most of the big name furlers) but it's been my experience that furling problems are result of crew not properly tensioning the furling line and/or the line not being led properly and not the particular brand involved. You clearly have a good crew who doesn't create problems and good on ya for it. There's no doubt that deck sweeper will gain you a few seconds per mile and for a serious racer it's an important consideration. However, for those who use their boats primarily for cruising the additional performance gain may not be worth the loss in visibility going to windward and the potential difficulties in clearing that fouled or disabled below decks furler. It is indeed a call every owner must make for themselves. I don't think Hunter primarily builds their boats as racers so, again, I'm a little mystified by the whole below decks placement thing. Yes, the 35.5 is a great boat that can be raced very successfully but I mean really, does a Passage 420 really need that drum tucked away? My mention of the removeable drum units was just a shot at having your cake and eating it too. Anyway, best regards.
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Mark Burrows
Inside and outside peels
Alan: How do you do inside and outside peels with the furler in place? Markdb
Alan: How do you do inside and outside peels with the furler in place? Markdb
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Alan
Mark,
If you want to do a headsail change without going headless....which I strongly recommend if you're racing....you must first have a twin grove in the luff grove of your furler, and you CANNOT use the upper bearing of the furler. You must hoist with the halyard attached right to the sail. When you are ready for a change, the new sail is set in the other luff grove and a new halyard attached. If you set the new sail on the outside grove, the new sail will go up outside the old one and the drop (peel) will be inside. Conversly, if you use the inside grove for the new sail, the old one will drop (peel) outside.
If you want to do a headsail change without going headless....which I strongly recommend if you're racing....you must first have a twin grove in the luff grove of your furler, and you CANNOT use the upper bearing of the furler. You must hoist with the halyard attached right to the sail. When you are ready for a change, the new sail is set in the other luff grove and a new halyard attached. If you set the new sail on the outside grove, the new sail will go up outside the old one and the drop (peel) will be inside. Conversly, if you use the inside grove for the new sail, the old one will drop (peel) outside.
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