New Rigging
- Thread starter TOMV
- Start date
- Status
I bought all new rigging from Rigging Only 2 -3 years ago. I ordered the turnbuckles, wire and Sta-Loc ends; assembled it myself. Saved a bunch of $$ doing it that way. Though in credit, I did show WestMarine my parts quote, they were willing to match it... Just 4-6 weeks later for the parts (not in stock). I had my order from RO by the end of the week. If you don't have a way to cleanly cut the wire (I used an air die grinder with thin cut off wheel, what I had in the shop that would work); Don't attempt it. You will end up fraying or smashing and fraying the wire ends and you are screwed. There are also specially made cable / wire cutters that shear rather than smash for the same purpose. Never tried them as I have other tools. I would also recommend wrapping several layers of electrical tape over the cut zone, it prevents the wire from unraveling as it is cut. Just my .02 worth.
Nik
Nik
At S.D.'s suggestion, I went to Rigging Only for my lieflines. They were quite reasonable.
In my case, I dropped off the old lines. However, they were concerned on some lengths because we reconfigured the layout. I called them back with the measurements and was told "we'll get right on it." The new lines arrived at my house the next day!!!!
In my case, I dropped off the old lines. However, they were concerned on some lengths because we reconfigured the layout. I called them back with the measurements and was told "we'll get right on it." The new lines arrived at my house the next day!!!!
You can cut the wire with a hacksaw, just make yourself a jig to ensure the cut is square. I did out of some scrap wood (two blocks mounted to a flat board to form a slot for the saw blade with a hole drilled though it just slightly larger than the diameter) and it worked like a charm.
I ordered from riggingonly. Very good customer service. If you order the wire and the fittings, I recomend cutting the wire with a dremel tool with a cutoff blade on it. I use a 4-1/2" grinder to cut it but I use that tool all the time. If you are not used to a grinder you can damage the wire or have some cool scars to make up stories about later.
Nik has a good suggestion about the tape around the cut zone. It will help keep you from nicking the wire with the hacksaw, cutoff tool or whatever you use to cut it.
I measured my stay and ordered Hi-Mod fittings as well as the wire rope from them.
I really like the Hi-Mod design compared to other mechanical fittings. I just took it apart yesterday. (I am installing a furler.) All the parts are reusable and easy to reassmeble.
Does it cost extra to have them match your stays and assemble the mechanical fittings? This is something I would prefer to do myself, however if you don't feel comfortable it is probably better to have them assemble them.
Nik has a good suggestion about the tape around the cut zone. It will help keep you from nicking the wire with the hacksaw, cutoff tool or whatever you use to cut it.
I measured my stay and ordered Hi-Mod fittings as well as the wire rope from them.
I really like the Hi-Mod design compared to other mechanical fittings. I just took it apart yesterday. (I am installing a furler.) All the parts are reusable and easy to reassmeble.
Does it cost extra to have them match your stays and assemble the mechanical fittings? This is something I would prefer to do myself, however if you don't feel comfortable it is probably better to have them assemble them.
One suggestion... get the rigging with swaged fittings on the mast side. Use the more expensive and easier to inspect/repair mechanical fittings on the bottom ends. This should save you some money. As for the fittings, I recommend going with Hayn HiMods as they have generally been significantly less money than the Norseman or StaLok fittings.
- Status