I just bought a 1977 Hunter 30. I want to fix it up and keep it for a while. I've sailed many times before, but have forgotten most of it and know very little about boat maintenance. I hope you can help me. (1) On the deck (where people can step, but not all over) appears to be a darker-colored (grayish) paint with a rough surface - perhaps sand in the paint. It is no longer even, there are patches where I guess it's rubbed off. What is this, and how can I get more to make it look even again? (2) The 8hp Yanmar motor is unusually loud for such a small motor, and shakes the boat at low RPM. Is it always like this, or should I get a professional to look at it? (3) We have a wasp infestation problem. Are there any products that are especially helpful in getting rid of them? (Orkin wants $150 to spray it, but if a $5 fogger will do it, I'd go with the fogger). (4) The main sheet and jib halyard are darkened by age and grime. They are natural fiber ropes, I believe. Will soaking them in bleach overnight destroy them or just make them whiter again? I don't want to buy new ropes if I don't have to (esp. the jib halyard which would be costly to run a new one through the mast). (PS - "main sheet" is attached to the boom and the sliding rail on the deck in the cockpit, but the "jib halyard" is the rope inside the mast that pulls the jib up, right? I'm trying to get my terminology straight). Hoping you can help, Frank Olson Atlanta, GA frank_olson@hotmail.com
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Ed Schenck
Take your time and..
do a lot of reading Frank. Start with Don Casey's articles on www.sailnet.com. His books are also excellent(amazon.com). But he writes about repairing the non-skid, an easy but very time-consuming project. The Yanmar probably needs new motor mounts and then it will need aligned. But one cyl. motors are always going to vibrate. Is the noise from vibration or a bad muffler? Or both? The cutlass bearing in the shaft strut would also be suspect. As would the prop if fouled or damaged. Should be able to fill the boat with Raid or some such product, close it up for a day, and find everything dead the next day. It works for spiders and other bugs. If your halyards and sheets look that bad it would be my first investment, especially halyards. You should have two exiting the mast, probably the main on starboard and the jib on port. You can recover from mainsheet problems on the water but loss of a halyard can be serious. Many cruising boats have at least one spare and can recover that way. I write with only a little experience as I am trying to make a 1979 Hunter seaworthy. Two winters so far and maybe one-fourth done. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
do a lot of reading Frank. Start with Don Casey's articles on www.sailnet.com. His books are also excellent(amazon.com). But he writes about repairing the non-skid, an easy but very time-consuming project. The Yanmar probably needs new motor mounts and then it will need aligned. But one cyl. motors are always going to vibrate. Is the noise from vibration or a bad muffler? Or both? The cutlass bearing in the shaft strut would also be suspect. As would the prop if fouled or damaged. Should be able to fill the boat with Raid or some such product, close it up for a day, and find everything dead the next day. It works for spiders and other bugs. If your halyards and sheets look that bad it would be my first investment, especially halyards. You should have two exiting the mast, probably the main on starboard and the jib on port. You can recover from mainsheet problems on the water but loss of a halyard can be serious. Many cruising boats have at least one spare and can recover that way. I write with only a little experience as I am trying to make a 1979 Hunter seaworthy. Two winters so far and maybe one-fourth done. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
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terry dornan
non-skid
ed has you in all the right directions-- pay close attention to how yoiu address the non-skid fix. (the grey paint you refer to) I tried a new product on mine and had to grind it off- just did not look good when i was done. (and it came of tuff) Lots of info in this forum on the subject, seems a lot use paint and sand with a salt shaker, then paint again. Since my experience I have fooled around with several products until i found something i liked, I have used an acrylic system and the results are both good looking and functional. The only concern i have is the life expectancy. terry
ed has you in all the right directions-- pay close attention to how yoiu address the non-skid fix. (the grey paint you refer to) I tried a new product on mine and had to grind it off- just did not look good when i was done. (and it came of tuff) Lots of info in this forum on the subject, seems a lot use paint and sand with a salt shaker, then paint again. Since my experience I have fooled around with several products until i found something i liked, I have used an acrylic system and the results are both good looking and functional. The only concern i have is the life expectancy. terry
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Rfichard Lemmler
Answer to you questions
Regarding the shaking of your engine, perhaps the motor mounts have deteriorated. To cure the wasp problem, I would buy a can of wasp spray. To change your halyard is not a big problem. Simply attach the new halyard to the end of the old and pull it through the mast. Be sure it is secured well before you do this, however. I usually put a couple of stitches in them then wrap a piece of masking tape around them so that the joint will run smoothly through the shieve. Halyards are the lines to raise sails. Sheets are the lines to trim them.
Regarding the shaking of your engine, perhaps the motor mounts have deteriorated. To cure the wasp problem, I would buy a can of wasp spray. To change your halyard is not a big problem. Simply attach the new halyard to the end of the old and pull it through the mast. Be sure it is secured well before you do this, however. I usually put a couple of stitches in them then wrap a piece of masking tape around them so that the joint will run smoothly through the shieve. Halyards are the lines to raise sails. Sheets are the lines to trim them.
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David Foster
Replacing haltards
Replacing a halyard is easy. Just tape (or sew) the new one to the end of the old one, and pull it through the mast. This worked fine when I put a new headsail halyard on my '77 H27. This was our first improvement to Lady Lillie, since if your part a halyard, now you _do_ have to send someone up the mast. (A pain, but doable, by the way.
Replacing a halyard is easy. Just tape (or sew) the new one to the end of the old one, and pull it through the mast. This worked fine when I put a new headsail halyard on my '77 H27. This was our first improvement to Lady Lillie, since if your part a halyard, now you _do_ have to send someone up the mast. (A pain, but doable, by the way.
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terry dornan
motor?
I think you will find taht to be a 12HP motor, be sure to check the model number before you pick up injevtion pump or injector parts . terry
I think you will find taht to be a 12HP motor, be sure to check the model number before you pick up injevtion pump or injector parts . terry
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JoeGooch
New Motor Mounts
Hi Frank, I had the same problem with the motor mounts. My solution was to remove the engine, use a wood bit to drill out the old holes (3/4 inch), get some good epoxy glue and hardwood dowel stock (3/4 inch in diameter) and cut pieces that would fit into the holes you have drilled with the wood bit. Install the hardwood dowell pins into the holes with the epoxy glue and then drill holes for the lag screws that hold the motor mounts. Be careful to size the new holes that you drill in the hardwood pins so that the lag screws will be very tight but also will screw into the holes. That will hold your engine and stop so much vibration. Good luck, Joe
Hi Frank, I had the same problem with the motor mounts. My solution was to remove the engine, use a wood bit to drill out the old holes (3/4 inch), get some good epoxy glue and hardwood dowel stock (3/4 inch in diameter) and cut pieces that would fit into the holes you have drilled with the wood bit. Install the hardwood dowell pins into the holes with the epoxy glue and then drill holes for the lag screws that hold the motor mounts. Be careful to size the new holes that you drill in the hardwood pins so that the lag screws will be very tight but also will screw into the holes. That will hold your engine and stop so much vibration. Good luck, Joe
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