new owner needs help

[richard965]

Any help with the following will be appreciated:

1. The SUMP pump works manually but even with bilge water at a high level does not pump automatically - does this mean the actuator switch is at fault or did a '83 9.2 not have an automatic switch? How would someone get to the switch when it is at the bottom of a deep and small keel?

2. I get no water from the water heater either through running the motor or shore power? It looks like the original but I cannot make out the manufactuer - it is a circular tank. I can understand that a defective core would not make hot water with power but why not through the exchanger? Has anyone replaced the heater and if so please share your experiences.

3. This boat - I just took delivery - has a electric head that does not pump out but does fill and I cannot find the manufacturer. Probably needs a rebuild? Also, how do you pump out the holding tank?

Thanks!!

 

[garylinger]

Any help with the following will be appreciated:

1. The SUMP pump works manually but even with bilge water at a high level does not pump automatically - does this mean the actuator switch is at fault or did a '83 9.2 not have an automatic switch? How would someone get to the switch when it is at the bottom of a deep and small keel?

On my 9.2C, the actuator switch was not attached to anything other than the wires (it is now attached to an aluminum 'leg') so all I had to do was lift it out by pulling on the wires.

2. I get no water from the water heater either through running the motor or shore power? It looks like the original but I cannot make out the manufactuer - it is a circular tank. I can understand that a defective core would not make hot water with power but why not through the exchanger? Has anyone replaced the heater and if so please share your experiences.

Do you get any water at all from the tank or is it just not "hot" water? If no water, you have something that is not allowing the tank to fill. If water but not "hot" then you may have a problem with 1) the heating elements, thermostat or electrical supply and 2) a blockage from the hot water heat exchanger from the engine. Before changing from my Yanmar to the new Beta, the temperature was not very hot and I now know that I had a lot of crud in the water jacket of the engine (block and head) that caused very poor heat exchange.

3. This boat - I just took delivery - has a electric head that does not pump out but does fill and I cannot find the manufacturer. Probably needs a rebuild? Also, how do you pump out the holding tank?

I don't know about the electric pump but as for emptying the holding tank, there are basically 2 ways - using a manual (hand) pump that pumps it overboard and using a pumpout fitting through the deck that is used with a pumpout station. My 1980 9.2C did not have the pumpout (I installed one) but did have the manual pump that sent stuff overboard thru a thruhull.

Thanks!!

I hope that helps!

 

[BobM]

If the hot water tank is original it is definitely a goner. I never heard of one lasting more than 5 to 10 years, which is why I didn't mind that my boat lacked one. I use my boat primarily for day sailing and weekends so to me a hot water heater is just an added complication I don't need.

Plan on replacing the bilge pump if you have any questions at all about it. They too have a limited life span. The bilge pump is typically mounted on a board which is lowered into the well and attached to the framework around the engine mounts.

Regarding the head, take a photo of it and post it on Peggy the Headmistress's forum. I am sure she can help you.

 

[richard965]

thanks for the info....I fixed the head with the replacement of the joker valve. i am planning to replace the bilge (or as S2 labels it "sump pump") with an automatic pump which i guess needs to be carefully lowered down and somehow weighted because there is no way to reach this area

 

[BobM]

The best way is to mount the pump and wiring to a long flat board. You can then just lower it down in front of the engine and mount it with a couple of stainless bolts and wing nuts to the board running across the engine beds (oversize the holes through the board a bit). Then you can easily spin off the wing nuts and pull it up for inspection. Leave plenty of slack in the wires to do so. In my boat the wiring passes into the well from the back of the engine, as the bilge pump should always be wired independent of the main circuit board and cut off switch (big orange switch).