New Owner // 1983 Hunter 27 // Running Rigging Questions

Jun 25, 2026
10
Hunter Hunter 27 Brick
A few months ago I bought a new to me, Huner 27. At the time is was on teh hard, but last week we put it in the water and I had a nice 6 hour crusie under power up it its new home.

I am working on replacing the running rigging.

Currently the boat is without sails. New ones are on order.

Im trying to figure out my running rigging and am confused.

Out of the bottom of the mast I have 4 rollers, two ropes. one on the left, and one on the right. Both ropes are routed to the left side through a roller thing then to a 2 port rope clutch. The right side takes an ugly shape turn to get over there - see images.

Also on the right side, opposit the left side rolling thing and opposit the left side clutch, the right side has neither.

This seems odd to me. I wouldexpect the right side rope to run down the right side of teh boat into its own roller thing and clutch.

Also, the mast has two rollers on each side, but only one rope. Im thinking im missing two ropes?

See images. happy to get your thoughts.

Also, any links to how to replace the ropes with new ones with out taking down the mast.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,513
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Congrats on your new to you baot purchase.
If your boat did not come with a manual, perhaps this link will help.
Hunter_27_264067.pdf
If you explore, there is a "Standard Running Rigging diagram" that may address the query you posted.
Screenshot 2026-06-25 at 8.55.31 AM.png
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,975
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Those are most likely the main and jib halyards. It is traditional to have the main on the Starboard side and the jib on the Port side. That maybe what you have at the mast. Running both lines to a clutch on one side isn't necessarily a problem as long as the runs are fair and the turns aren't too deep. This may have been done to save on hardware costs. And you have fewer holes in your deck - a good thing! I would see if the current set up works before changing it.
Your lines appear to be too wide for the sheaves at the bottom of the mast. Old lines can swell so maybe years ago they fit. Being too large will add friction and make their use more difficult. You can safely downsize those lines with modern low stretch cordage. Don't worry about extra sheaves. You'll find a use for them... Spinnaker halyard, topping lift, reefing lines, outhaul ...
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,513
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Have fun Robert.
:biggrin:
 
Jun 25, 2026
10
Hunter Hunter 27 Brick
Congrats on your new to you baot purchase.
If your boat did not come with a manual, perhaps this link will help.
Hunter_27_264067.pdf
If you explore, there is a "Standard Running Rigging diagram" that may address the query you posted.
View attachment 238349
I stopped by west marine and picked up all the ropes using the above chart. Thank you

next step figuring out out to replace them with out taking down the mast.
 
Apr 22, 2011
974
Hunter 27 Pecan Grove, Oriental, NC
The Hunter 27 manual and running rigging diagram are of a later model Hunter. Yours is a 1983 Cherubini Hunter that is very different than the later designs. 'The two lines at the bottom of the mast must be the jib and mainsail halyards. Give each one and tug and see where they end.
 
Jun 25, 2026
10
Hunter Hunter 27 Brick
The Hunter 27 manual and running rigging diagram are of a later model Hunter. Yours is a 1983 Cherubini Hunter that is very different than the later designs. 'The two lines at the bottom of the mast must be the jib and mainsail halyards. Give each one and tug and see where they end.
Oh no

would anyone have the right diagram?

how far off will I be?
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,325
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
the left side rolling thing
is called a deck organizer
two rollers on each side
they are called turning blocks in that position and purpose; those pieces of equipment are generically called "blocks'" or "sheaves" (pronounced shivs)

I suggest you spend some time reading up on sailboat equipment terminology. Books are helpful, and so are marine catalogs.

I also suggest doing a search here on this forum for "splicing halyards" and "halyard replacement". This time of year there are many skippers asking how to do just what you're asking.

Good luck. Nice boat.
 
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Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,311
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
You don't have to take down the mast to replace your existing halyards. Adding new ones will require taking down the mast or going up in a bosun's chair, an adventure in itself but always a good experience. To replace your old halyards you can use them as a "messengers" to pull the new ones through. Like a fish tape. I like using the tail to pull the new halyard through from front to back. If there's a shackle, just cut if off a foot or two back so you'll have a nice tight piece of rope to connect to the new halyard. To connect them together, and there are a few methods people use to do this, you can sew the ends together....not too tight, because you want the assembly to bend over the sheave as if goes over the top. So 4 or 5 laps of heavy thread, then cover the connection by wrapping tape around it. I've used masking tape, painter's tape, plastic electrical tape... they all work. The point is to keep it flexible and NOT bulky so it will slide over the wheel and down to the exit block at the bottom. When it gets down there be really careful, because those sheaves will be in a metal box, most likely, and will make a fairly tight turn to exit. I will mention that I've also use a paper clip to connect the ends. Again, no problems.

If you decide to add a second jib halyard or a spinnaker halyard you'll either drop the mast or take a ride to the top with someone hoisting you up in a bosun's chair. A good experience, just follow the safety rules. There's plenty of advice on that activity on YT and in this forum. Essentially, you go up, drop in the messenger, tie on your halyard down below and pull it back thrugh. When I did this with a friend, I used fishing line with a sinker attached to keep the line moving downward. At the bottom I used a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end to snag the weight from the mast's interior. After that.... easy.

The "deck organizer in your photo appears to have at least one broken sheave (the plastic wheels inside the housing). You actually need to remedy that, it makes hoisting sails difficult plus it'll damage the line. You may be able to find replacements and they aren't difficult to change out. If you need a full replacement I recommend Garhauer Marine as a good source for sailboat hardware. good prices.

Finally, I would not try to recreate the existing set up. That right side halyard looks nearly inoperable. The only reason the previous owner had it like that was to use the clutch (or cleat) on the left side. It's the kind of thing that reflects badly on the owner's seamanship. That's why you checked in here....... right ;)? Well, my friend, if you read a few books, study the marine catalogues and associate yourself with folks who know what they're doing and are happy to share their knowledge then you'll have that boat squared away in no time and become as salty as the rest of us. So......... to fix that issue with the right (starboard) side halyard. Order a simple "horn cleat". A 6 inch cleat is perfect for up to 3/8" line. Mount it vertically on the mast about waist or chest height. pull the halyard out of the left side, and use the new cleat to secure the line and organize the left over, A horn cleat is so easy to work with. Once you have the sail hoisted as high as you can get it by hand, loop it over the cleat and while pulling down again, use your other hand to pull out on the lower part. This little maneuver( called "sweating the halyard" ) will give you extra purchase to raise the sail a bit more.
Now.. if you still have trouble getting the sail fully hoisted without a winch, here's what you do:
1. release all tension from the boom.... do this anytime, it will make life easier. 2. lubricate the sail track. step one clean the track A spare sail track slug works best...tie on a light piece of cloth, like tee shirt, squirt it with wd 40 ( I'll get comments on the WD 40) tie on the halyard for pulling up and a length of light cord to pull down.... then up and down you go. Next...squirt some dry, silicone spray lubricant directly on the first few feet of track... then work your sail slug up and down again. Before you hoist the sail spray lube on the track and all the slugs on the sail will pick up some slippery stuff. Shouldn't have any problems now.

I always hoist my mainsail before I leave the dock. Unless there are circumstances, such as being parked in a downwind slip, you should be able to do the same. The point is to get the mainsail up a soon as you can... and do it when and where conditionsare benign, Just remember to allow the boom to swing free so the boat doesn't start sailing before you're ready.

Okay, my friend... I ended up writing a novel here... sorry. If you're looking to start a small sailing library, my favorite recommendation is John Rousmaniere's "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" He also published a great video series back then that'll really help develop your skills and stoke your enthusiasm. The book's been out for a long time, so older editions will be inexpensive, Check used bookstores for older less expensive editions, or even the local library if you just want to read. Good luck, have fun.
 
Jun 25, 2026
10
Hunter Hunter 27 Brick
Joe, thank you, (and every one thats posted) This is all very helpful.

Ill look to order new sheave and a deck orgnizer. as well as horn cleat.

Robert
 
Jun 25, 2026
10
Hunter Hunter 27 Brick
Hi. How does the speedo work? Like where is the speed sensor located?

when we departed the dock the other day it was working. And at some point during the cruise it stopped.
 

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Jun 25, 2026
10
Hunter Hunter 27 Brick
I’m working through new marine electronics suite.
I’m torn between the Furuno FM-4800 & FM-4850

the 4800 is a handset. Which when mounted at the helm is a small form factor. Which I like, however I’m pretty partial to the traditional box function and display.
Any thoughts among you fine folks?
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,975
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Hi. How does the speedo work? Like where is the speed sensor located?
when we departed the dock the other day it was working. And at some point during the cruise it stopped.
Most likely the speed sensor is a paddle wheel in a thru hull. Look in the bilge forward of the keel to one side or the other.
Those paddle wheels are notorious for getting fouled with marine growth. They need to be cleaned regularly. Before removing the paddle wheel assembly you should make sure you have a blank, which is a faux paddle wheel to occupy the space - a hole in the boat hull - while you are cleaning the real paddlewheel. I used to keep a wire brush, a toothbrush and a container could fill with water and rinse the mess away in the compartment the paddlewheel was in. It is good practice to remove the paddlewheel and replace with the blank while away from the boat for more than a few days.
Of course your malfunctioning sensor could be due to a faulty electrical connection. That is another story. The wiring to the sensor is sealed so just testing the voltage isn't easy. Others may have a technique.
 
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