My wife and I (actually she was behind it) bought a 1976 Hunter 30'. Its a sound boat but does need work. With all I hear about the original motor, and the condition of this one, My thoughts are to replace it while I am replacing the interior, along with the wiring and plumbing. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best motor ro replace the YSB or YSM with. I am looking to minimize the work, and modifications to add the new motor. I am told Yanmar is among the best.
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Congrats on your new old boat
We own 79 H30. We replaced the old Yanmar when it died with a more powerful Westerbeke. The boat was very underpowered. I know that the Westerbeke is smaller in size than the old Yanmar was so some alteration had to be made to where the engine is mounted. The old Yanmar was raw water cooled and had already been rebuilt once. The new engine isn't raw water cooled. My husband said he'd rather pay the money and get something he felt confident with rather than waiting for the old engine to break down again. We are also redoing the interior & all systems. It's a real eye opener, have fun.
We own 79 H30. We replaced the old Yanmar when it died with a more powerful Westerbeke. The boat was very underpowered. I know that the Westerbeke is smaller in size than the old Yanmar was so some alteration had to be made to where the engine is mounted. The old Yanmar was raw water cooled and had already been rebuilt once. The new engine isn't raw water cooled. My husband said he'd rather pay the money and get something he felt confident with rather than waiting for the old engine to break down again. We are also redoing the interior & all systems. It's a real eye opener, have fun.
Motor might be fine
We have the smaller Yanmar 1SB, 8 hourse model on our 1977 h27, and it will push us right along at 5 knots when we are becalmed, is great getting in and out of the marina, and hardly uses any fuel. I'd try the one in the boat before deciding to replace it. Since the motor will lift right out, there is no reason changing it out needs to be done with refurbishung the interior. David Lady Lillie
We have the smaller Yanmar 1SB, 8 hourse model on our 1977 h27, and it will push us right along at 5 knots when we are becalmed, is great getting in and out of the marina, and hardly uses any fuel. I'd try the one in the boat before deciding to replace it. Since the motor will lift right out, there is no reason changing it out needs to be done with refurbishung the interior. David Lady Lillie
Rebuilt YSM-12
last July before bringing my '79 H30 from Norfolk, VA to Washington, NC. A Yanmar mechanic replaced the valves, removed some scaling from cooling channels and made a few other repairs. He said the engine had life left in it. I know it wasn't a total rebuild, but I feel confident that the engine will continue to give good service. Yes, it is a little short on powered. However, it is in a sailboat after all. Tammy is offering a good choice in the Westerbeke. Aparently, they made the right decision in their situation. A new Yanmar is a good choice too. Your paying the money you make the choice. I'd consider service and the availablity of parts if and when I repower. Hopefully, you'll get a few other suggestions to guide you.
last July before bringing my '79 H30 from Norfolk, VA to Washington, NC. A Yanmar mechanic replaced the valves, removed some scaling from cooling channels and made a few other repairs. He said the engine had life left in it. I know it wasn't a total rebuild, but I feel confident that the engine will continue to give good service. Yes, it is a little short on powered. However, it is in a sailboat after all. Tammy is offering a good choice in the Westerbeke. Aparently, they made the right decision in their situation. A new Yanmar is a good choice too. Your paying the money you make the choice. I'd consider service and the availablity of parts if and when I repower. Hopefully, you'll get a few other suggestions to guide you.
Why replace?
The Yanmar is a very dependable engine. It seems like there must be other higher priorities for use of funds in refitting. Unless the engine is dead.
The Yanmar is a very dependable engine. It seems like there must be other higher priorities for use of funds in refitting. Unless the engine is dead.
Tammy......details please
Details on the westerbeke install please? - how thick shims did you add under the the mounts? - Did you have to oder different for the 16' centers, or was that just another set of holes on the mounting brackets. - looks in the drawings that there are hoses or pipes under the transmission, what are they for? and did they interphere with the fit? - what size/pitch prop did you put on, and how's the performance? - Install issues? Did you do yourself have done? - Cost? - Pictures pictures pictures please Thanks.
Details on the westerbeke install please? - how thick shims did you add under the the mounts? - Did you have to oder different for the 16' centers, or was that just another set of holes on the mounting brackets. - looks in the drawings that there are hoses or pipes under the transmission, what are they for? and did they interphere with the fit? - what size/pitch prop did you put on, and how's the performance? - Install issues? Did you do yourself have done? - Cost? - Pictures pictures pictures please Thanks.
Dave, here's some of the answers
I really can't answer the real technical questions. We paid to have the 18 horsepower Westerbeke installed. I had to ask my husband about your more technical questions & he wasn't sure because the yard took care of all that. I do remember that some fiberglass work had to be done to the area that the engine mounts so I am assuming that the Westerbeke is narrower than the yanmar. Also, the new hotwater heater is behind the engine where the batteries used to be and the fuel tank beside that. Ken plans to put the batteries where the old hot water heater was (port side) and the electrical panel and battery switches in the galley wall that separates the galley from the lazerette. I don't know about how thick the shims are but can measure the next time I go down to the boat and let you know. We didn't replace the prop but did replace the shaft, as it was bent. A new shaft was only $50 more than having the bent one straightened. Which explains why the boat vibrated so much when the engine was running. The engine itself was around $6,000. Total cost of installation + new fuel tank, new hotwater heater, replaced all seacocks, new raw water strainer, I'm sure I'm forgetting something, was a little over $13,000. Oh, I feel sick *cry. Now that I think about it that price also included the storage costs for that season. We have a anti siphon loop on the water intake now, didn't before. Sorry, can't answer the performance question yet as the boat is still under reconstruction. We spent the last two years taking the boat apart and are just getting to the put-it-back-together stage. We have removed all deck hardware and filled all the holes with epoxy, we also filled the chainplate holes with epoxy, after reading an article in Sail Magazine, because we had issues with leaks in that area. Everything that we could take apart and take off the boat we did and then we painted the interior. All the wood that we brought home got washed on the deck and when dry got 3 coats of Interlux's rubbed look varnish. Once the hull liner is installed we can put the galley back together. We were going to replace the icebox but it was just too expensive. Then we thought we'd build a new icebox but decided it just wouldn't be worth all the effort when we have so many other things to do. So, now we'll just buy a good cooler. The steel I beam that was in the bilge supporting the compression post was toast so we chiseled it out and have a new beam (cost $20.)that Ken has coated with epoxy. We stripped the yucky grass paper off the bulkheads in the v-berth and head and tried to rewallpaper with vinyl wallpaper. That didn't go so well because we could not order the commercial width(it would have been too expensive and we would have had way to much wallpaper left over) Anyway we used the regular width and a good vinyl paste and the seams opened up over the winter. Sso.... Plan B is to install "formica" product from HOme Depot at a cost of $40. per sheet, will need two sheets. We ripped all the wiring out this summer, what a mess of spagetti *o and will be installing all new wiring, that will be labeled & lights this spring. We took out the water tank and will install new water & holding tank. We ripped up the delaminated sole & will install new. Sanded the lovely lavender non-skid paint from the decks and removed portlights. This spring we will have the boat moved into the shed and paint. We had hoped to paint this summer but there was never an overcast day that it didn't rain. Once we've painted we can install new portlights. We've bought new smoked lexan to replace the cloudy,crazed acrylic in the hatches. And, I'm looking for new upholstery material to replace the lovely 70's plaid that currently covers the cushions. Oh, we ripped the hull liner out and are replacing it with a nice oatmeal colored commercial indoor/outdoor carpeting. A 9x12 piece cost us $113.00. All the other indoor/outdoor colors of carpeting at home depot etc were all too dark we felt. And we are going to take the pedestal to Edson in Massachusets to be refurbished. They are only about a couple hrs drive. We have learned a lot by taking this boat apart and procrastinating in putting it back together has given us time to rethink some of our original plans and discover better products or techniques. Hopefully there won't be any "extra" pieces left over when we're done. We do have pictures of the boat from the survey to use as a reference if we've forgotten where something goes. I've got to get someone to scan those pictures so that I can post a before/after here when we're done. We've learned a lot.
I really can't answer the real technical questions. We paid to have the 18 horsepower Westerbeke installed. I had to ask my husband about your more technical questions & he wasn't sure because the yard took care of all that. I do remember that some fiberglass work had to be done to the area that the engine mounts so I am assuming that the Westerbeke is narrower than the yanmar. Also, the new hotwater heater is behind the engine where the batteries used to be and the fuel tank beside that. Ken plans to put the batteries where the old hot water heater was (port side) and the electrical panel and battery switches in the galley wall that separates the galley from the lazerette. I don't know about how thick the shims are but can measure the next time I go down to the boat and let you know. We didn't replace the prop but did replace the shaft, as it was bent. A new shaft was only $50 more than having the bent one straightened. Which explains why the boat vibrated so much when the engine was running. The engine itself was around $6,000. Total cost of installation + new fuel tank, new hotwater heater, replaced all seacocks, new raw water strainer, I'm sure I'm forgetting something, was a little over $13,000. Oh, I feel sick *cry. Now that I think about it that price also included the storage costs for that season. We have a anti siphon loop on the water intake now, didn't before. Sorry, can't answer the performance question yet as the boat is still under reconstruction. We spent the last two years taking the boat apart and are just getting to the put-it-back-together stage. We have removed all deck hardware and filled all the holes with epoxy, we also filled the chainplate holes with epoxy, after reading an article in Sail Magazine, because we had issues with leaks in that area. Everything that we could take apart and take off the boat we did and then we painted the interior. All the wood that we brought home got washed on the deck and when dry got 3 coats of Interlux's rubbed look varnish. Once the hull liner is installed we can put the galley back together. We were going to replace the icebox but it was just too expensive. Then we thought we'd build a new icebox but decided it just wouldn't be worth all the effort when we have so many other things to do. So, now we'll just buy a good cooler. The steel I beam that was in the bilge supporting the compression post was toast so we chiseled it out and have a new beam (cost $20.)that Ken has coated with epoxy. We stripped the yucky grass paper off the bulkheads in the v-berth and head and tried to rewallpaper with vinyl wallpaper. That didn't go so well because we could not order the commercial width(it would have been too expensive and we would have had way to much wallpaper left over) Anyway we used the regular width and a good vinyl paste and the seams opened up over the winter. Sso.... Plan B is to install "formica" product from HOme Depot at a cost of $40. per sheet, will need two sheets. We ripped all the wiring out this summer, what a mess of spagetti *o and will be installing all new wiring, that will be labeled & lights this spring. We took out the water tank and will install new water & holding tank. We ripped up the delaminated sole & will install new. Sanded the lovely lavender non-skid paint from the decks and removed portlights. This spring we will have the boat moved into the shed and paint. We had hoped to paint this summer but there was never an overcast day that it didn't rain. Once we've painted we can install new portlights. We've bought new smoked lexan to replace the cloudy,crazed acrylic in the hatches. And, I'm looking for new upholstery material to replace the lovely 70's plaid that currently covers the cushions. Oh, we ripped the hull liner out and are replacing it with a nice oatmeal colored commercial indoor/outdoor carpeting. A 9x12 piece cost us $113.00. All the other indoor/outdoor colors of carpeting at home depot etc were all too dark we felt. And we are going to take the pedestal to Edson in Massachusets to be refurbished. They are only about a couple hrs drive. We have learned a lot by taking this boat apart and procrastinating in putting it back together has given us time to rethink some of our original plans and discover better products or techniques. Hopefully there won't be any "extra" pieces left over when we're done. We do have pictures of the boat from the survey to use as a reference if we've forgotten where something goes. I've got to get someone to scan those pictures so that I can post a before/after here when we're done. We've learned a lot.
batterys in Starbord lazerette
not port. Also known as "the other port" when I'm on the boat. I don't know my right from my left.
not port. Also known as "the other port" when I'm on the boat. I don't know my right from my left.
thanks for the info Tammy
Wow....you have a lot of work going on. You'll have a practically new boat when done. Appreciate the insight, and look forward to hearing any of the specs you can get and even some pictures. Thanks.
Wow....you have a lot of work going on. You'll have a practically new boat when done. Appreciate the insight, and look forward to hearing any of the specs you can get and even some pictures. Thanks.
I think we have some of that lavendar paint
could you tell me just how you got that lovely lavender non-skid paint off the deck, I think they used the rest of the gallon on our boat, and it look like they put it on with a hammer.
could you tell me just how you got that lovely lavender non-skid paint off the deck, I think they used the rest of the gallon on our boat, and it look like they put it on with a hammer.
Random orbital sander
It took quite a number of hours to get it all off. Who ever painted removed all the deck hardware so that he/she could paint under it*o. Just wait till you try to sand around that molded-in base the stanchions sit on. In most places it came off pretty easy but some areas took a lot of effort. We thought about using Treadmaster but we estimated we would need 8 or 9 sheets to do the project properly, ending up with lots of left overs, and at a cost of around $90. per sheet we quickly abandoned that idea. Then we thought we would just use the interlux non-skid product then we discovered Durabak. Check out this link www.nonslipcoating.com. The promotional literature says that it's resistant to saltwater, fuels and chemicals, that it won't crack, chip or peal. Maine Maritime Academy uses Durabak on their vessels. I guess it's a product similar to Rhinoliner. A guy I work with paid his boatyard $800 to Rhinoliner his 16 foot sailboat. The website mostly depicts the product on commercial watercraft but they say that it gets used on pleasure craft quite frequently. The cost of the color we are going to use is $118.00 per gallon and I'm pretty sure that will be enough. Check out the website and let me know what you think.
It took quite a number of hours to get it all off. Who ever painted removed all the deck hardware so that he/she could paint under it*o. Just wait till you try to sand around that molded-in base the stanchions sit on. In most places it came off pretty easy but some areas took a lot of effort. We thought about using Treadmaster but we estimated we would need 8 or 9 sheets to do the project properly, ending up with lots of left overs, and at a cost of around $90. per sheet we quickly abandoned that idea. Then we thought we would just use the interlux non-skid product then we discovered Durabak. Check out this link www.nonslipcoating.com. The promotional literature says that it's resistant to saltwater, fuels and chemicals, that it won't crack, chip or peal. Maine Maritime Academy uses Durabak on their vessels. I guess it's a product similar to Rhinoliner. A guy I work with paid his boatyard $800 to Rhinoliner his 16 foot sailboat. The website mostly depicts the product on commercial watercraft but they say that it gets used on pleasure craft quite frequently. The cost of the color we are going to use is $118.00 per gallon and I'm pretty sure that will be enough. Check out the website and let me know what you think.
Thanks Tammy
Thanks, I am sure murphy's law will apply when we remove the lavender, but your experience will be helpful.
Thanks, I am sure murphy's law will apply when we remove the lavender, but your experience will be helpful.
Oops
Bob, I unintentionly started a new post when I meant to respond to this post. Please see the Vetus post. Sorry. Royce
Bob, I unintentionly started a new post when I meant to respond to this post. Please see the Vetus post. Sorry. Royce
Cost of engine
I pulled the bill and all it says is Westerbek engine cost 6,277. I know it's 18hp and it's red
. I'll ask Ken if he knows the model number. I can't answer the questions about the motor mounts
I pulled the bill and all it says is Westerbek engine cost 6,277. I know it's 18hp and it's red
. I'll ask Ken if he knows the model number. I can't answer the questions about the motor mountsThanks Tammy
I think thats a model 20B, and I spoke to Westerbeke, the make great motors I am told, and the price they quoted me was $5400.00 picked up in Holliston Ma, but that is a Boatshow price and I am not sure how long the price will last. I didnt even go to the boat show.........
I think thats a model 20B, and I spoke to Westerbeke, the make great motors I am told, and the price they quoted me was $5400.00 picked up in Holliston Ma, but that is a Boatshow price and I am not sure how long the price will last. I didnt even go to the boat show.........
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