New O'Day Owner Checking In!

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gregorygant

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Jan 30, 2016
3
O'day 23 Kings Harbor
Howdy O'day-ers,

Pretty stoked to say I picked up a 23 on Friday. My wife and I did the ASA class a couple months ago and have been watching for a learner/project for a while.

Hasn't been sailed in a year and the outboard is toast but the sails are in good shape and the cabin looks great.

We are going to try and go powerwash it this week and do a full inventory to start building the to-do list.

First on our list is to replace all the rigging and get the outboard working.

Anyone else in socal? Redondo specifically?

Looking forward to reading as much as possible!

GG
 

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njlarry

njlarry

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Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Welcome aboard! O'days are great boats, well made with classic lines and reasonable performance.
Replacing the rigging, especially the standing rigging is a great idea. The running rigging is available in this sites store. Rudy at D and R marine carries o'day parts. Lots of good information in the oday archives here.
Next I would look for any deck leaks and check the deck with a moisture meter. Then inspect the keel or centerboard and rudder.
Enjoy your boat, fair winds and stay safe.
 
Indysailor

Indysailor

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Oct 10, 2009
1,044
Catalina 27 3657 Lake Monroe
Welcome and congratulations on the 23! I have a lot of fun with mine. You won't win any races, but it's a friendly, simple, easy to handle boat.
 
Apex

Apex

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Jun 19, 2013
1,212
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
Congrats, always a great feeling to have your "OWN". I would recommend spending a little time on the runnign rigging to better understnad exactly how you want to or if you need to reconfigure. Of course, anything in peril or absolutely needing replacement should be dealt with. My point is after a short time with your boat, you will have a better understanding of what you may like to improve/change. Rigging is a personal preference.
 
Brian S

Brian S

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Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Apex said:
Congrats, always a great feeling to have your "OWN". I would recommend spending a little time on the runnign rigging to better understnad exactly how you want to or if you need to reconfigure. Of course, anything in peril or absolutely needing replacement should be dealt with. My point is after a short time with your boat, you will have a better understanding of what you may like to improve/change. Rigging is a personal preference.
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I'm going to agree and disagree with Apex. By all means, replace ANY running or standing rigging that needs it. Worn and frayed sheets and halyards gotta go. Plus, most halyards for this type of boat are polyester double braid, which is stretchy at the best of times, really stretchy if old and worn and frayed. As for standing rigging, check every inch of the wires and look for patches of rust and broken strands ("meat hooks.") Also look at the termination of swaged fittings to be sure there is no rust or cracking visible. Finally, look for loose and corroded rivets holding hardware to mast and boom, stuff like tang plates at the hounds, etc.

Now, here's where I will disagree with Apex. He's right that you should pay close attention to how the running rigging is stock rigged on the boat. But don't worry about changing anything yet. Get out and sail her for a couple months, even a full season, as "stock" rigged, before you decide that you want to change things up.

I thought I wanted to lead my halyards aft when I first got the boat. Then I decided I don't want to after sailing her for a season or two. Now I realize I want to get rid of my horn cleat for the hank on jib halyard, and use a swiveling cam cleat instead - the same way I rigged my spinnaker halyard. This will allow me much easier adjustment of luff tension. But I want to keep the main halyard on the mast, because I find it easier to reef that way. It took me two seasons to figure this out, and wasn't until the end of my third season I was sure of what I wanted to do with the jib halyard (though I haven't done it yet! :D )
 
Apex

Apex

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Jun 19, 2013
1,212
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
turns out we completely agree Brian. Pretty much exactly what I tried to convey: don 't be in a hurry to replace or re-route until you are familiar enough with the boat, and how you use it. Looking at the pictures Greg, the lines I could see look in good shape, and the boat looks great! Tie off your fenders somewhere else though. Torque on a stanchion invites bending or compromised seals and then leaks.
 
Brian S

Brian S

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Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Apex said:
turns out we completely agree Brian. Pretty much exactly what I tried to convey: don 't be in a hurry to replace or re-route until you are familiar enough with the boat, and how you use it. Looking at the pictures Greg, the lines I could see look in good shape, and the boat looks great! Tie off your fenders somewhere else though. Torque on a stanchion invites bending or compromised seals and then leaks.
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I tie my fenders to the bases of lifeline stanchions with a rolling hitch. I figure less torque, and I know an old timer says he's never lost a fender this way. Good enough for me! Also, I HATED having bronze snap shackles on the ends, clipping to the lifelines like the PO had rigged. They always knock against the deck so hard when trying to stow the in the lazarette, no matter what you do. I haven't lost a fender for 3 seasons, and I've sure fished enough out of the weeds from the kayak! One time, I found one with the boat name and slip number written on it. I was happy to find the boat and toss the fender into the cockpit. :D
 
Sunbird22358

Sunbird22358

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Jun 2, 2004
1,944
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
njlarry said:
Welcome aboard!
Then inspect the keel or centerboard and rudder.
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I would suggest that it would be a good idea to check BOTH the Keel and the Centerboard <GRIN!>, although O'DAY K/CB designs are well built! The CB pendant line should be checked, either by diving under the boat in the water or by lowering the CB with the boat lifted by a crane or travel-lift. Not a bad idea to inspect the CB pivot pin for wear, removing it is not hard, except it requires getting access to the CB slot in the keel. Best done with the boat off the trailer and set on stands with the keel blocks positioned at the ends of the keel to clear the CB slot. I jack my DS II up and slide the trailer forward until the CB can drop.... slightly scary with a DS II, VERY scary to do that with a 23! However, our old, late, Friend Joe Alves used to completely take his 222 off the trailer almost every year to paint the bottom..... he knew what he was doing.... but I shudder to think about it!
 
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G

gregorygant

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Jan 30, 2016
3
O'day 23 Kings Harbor
Thanks everyone! Great posts and great info, right now I am just trying to read everything possible.

Moving it to my slip next week so the adventure begins, luckily its not far. Won't even need to leave the inner-

GG
 
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4father

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Aug 25, 2014
21
O'Day 25CB Claremore, OK, Redbud Marina
Congratulations!

My only advice: easy with the power-washer on old bedding compound. You might scour out what was making a good seal. I just use a low pressure hose with a little scrubby head thingy and some soap. Clean as a whistle :)

4F
 
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gregorygant

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Jan 30, 2016
3
O'day 23 Kings Harbor
A quick follow-up:

Got her out for her first sail this weekend.. Redondo Beach to it's new slip Seal Beach, quite a journey for her first sail and she did fantastic!!

The good news is that I couldnt imagine an easier to sail boat. The bad news (or good news) is I have a ton to learn on this thing. The jib was not rigged properly and there were all kinds of rigging hang ups not allowing the sail to do it's job. That's still my first mission - get all the rigging right.

Thanks again everyone for the posts and looking forward to getting back out this weekend.
 
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