With respect to your choice of materials a 'top quality' woven dacron can have some benefits over 'cruising' laminates: longer life in service, more 'adjustability' of sail shape, withstands more 'abuse' than a laminate, easier DIY 'cleanable'. Top quality woven dacron, and with the chosen fiber alignment to 'match' the principal stresses of the panels is the solution for a 'quality' sail lofted from woven dacron. Good choice woven dacron manufacturers are Contender and Bainbridge, etc.
Cross cut sails have the advantage of 'more adjustability' of shape when sailing; radial sails are more stable as the shape built into the sail 'is generally the shape you get' and with reduced 'shape adjustability'. Match the above with the choices of somewhat stable (less-stretchable) cruising laminate OR a bit more stretchable/less stable woven and now there are 4 variables to think about.
Radials are more shape stable than cross cuts ... as you can align the panels in direct alignment with the fibers in the cloth ... so the sail doesnt stretch much in varying wind strengths. Can be woven or laminate.
If as a 'performance' cruiser, you know how to 'shape' your sails by 'edge tension' (and with respect to cost and longevity), then a high quality woven dacron cross cut may be your best choice ... especially if you sail in widely variable wind conditions (super light to strong winds). You can also consider a radial with woven dacron (although they tend to be 'heavy')..
In contrast, if you dont 'shape' your sails, sail primarily in condition from 5-18+ kt. then a more shape-stable (when sailing) cruising laminate may be a good choice because of it lesser ability to be shaped ... or need to be 'shaped'.
Other considerations:
a. 2 full top battens + 2 LONG lower battens ... battens properly tapered and batten pockets adjustable for 'preloading' the battens to match their 'curve'.
b. "over the top" leech cord system ... leech cord runs from clew along the leech up to a cheekblock at the headboard then running down along the luff in a sleeve. Allows the leech to be adjusted when the boom is well off the centerline (so you dont have to have one foot on the boat, the other dangling over the water, one hand hanging onto the boom while the other hand fiddles with a leech cord. With an over-the-top system you can do this from the gooseneck position of the mast - a 'saftey consideration'.
c. For woven dacron sail
If the sail is 'boltroped' - the sail has a 3 strand, etc. 'rope' inside a sleeve at the luff - specify that the sailmaker provide 'extra' boltrope length which is 'stored' or attached to the headboard, etc. to allow future boltrope/luff 'adjustment'. With 'extra' boltrope 'stored' its VERY quick easy and cheap to affect any future adjustment of the boltrope length, without extra length being 'stored' the correct to way to 'adjust' is to entirely replace the rope - can be costly.
Boltropes eventually become 'shorter' with sail usage. Every time your stretch then relax the luff, the boltrope becomes a teeny bit shorter. ... until the boltrope becomes too short - and the result of this shrunken boltrope is: the sails draft moves too far aft (bagged), the draft significantly increases ('bagged'), the luff shape become 'very rounded' - easily 'backwinded'. the leech section begins to 'hook to weather' - the boat aggressively heels, is much slower, and develops more 'weather helm'. Most times a simple 'readjustment' of the luff bolt rope will restore the shape (and performance) of the sail. Woven dacron sails hardly ever become 'blown out', most dacron sails need to have their boltrope 're-adjusted' (at least every few seasons).
Laminate sails with "taped luff" (no boltrope) cant be corrected and will eventually 're-shape' (when permanently stretched out) in the opposite fashion: flatter sail, leech falling off to leeward, etc. - cant be economically/easily 'fixed'.
d. If you want ***PERFORMANCE***, specify that the sail has a relatively FLAT luff entry. A flat entry shape will require PRECISE steering - the sail will luff or separation stall within a quite narrow wind angle. Cruising cut entry shapes are 'rounded' and thus 'forgiving' to an inexperienced (or unconcerned) helmsman. With a flat-entry or 'race cut', If you dont use a FULL set to telltales and know how to get perfect 'shape' out of the sail by correct halyard / cunningham / outhaul / mainsheet tension, dont want to be looking at the telltales very often ..... then a flat entry (racing cut) sail may be a 'bother'. A flat entry cut sail is a FAST sail, a sail that 'can' point much much higher .... and is a good sail for those 'very light wind' conditions (when all those with 'cruising cuts' are starting up the diesel-beasts).
e. Loose footed - for better adjustability
f. What ever material or cut you decide ... be sure that you keep or record the precise (as made) luff/foot/leech dimensions - so you can more 'easily' restore the sail back to its proper dimensions (boltropes, etc.).
I loft & make all my own sails. I race and long distance cruise - my 'current choice' is a radial mainsail made with quality woven dacron ... more wind stable (doenst power-up due to adverse stretch) than a cross cut, still easy to 'shape', can take more abuse (my wife also sails the boat
), longer service life, can be more easily 'adjusted' back to decent shape as it 'ages', etc. etc.
Choose a good sailmaker/loft - you'll appreciate/notice the difference.
hope this helps. Good Luck.
