I recently purchased a 1978 H30. It does not have a head or holding tank. The previous owner removed the recirculating head (for some reason). My question is this: What would be the most reasonable location for the tank? What material should it be made out of? Can anyone recomend a head (cost is a factor but willing to pay for quality and convenience)? Also if anyone has done this project, I would love to hear your advice. Thanks Nick
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Head/tank replacement
I replaced the recirculating head on my '78 Hunter 30 a few years ago. Since I was unable to find parts for repair, the only option was a new head and holding tank. (A Port-a-Potti was not an option for me... I had one in a smaller boat.) A 9 gal. holding tank from Boat US fit very nicely into the center, V-berth locker. With some maneuvering, it went through the locker opening without cutting fiberglas. (Peggy Hall, HOW's Head Mistress may have something larger to fit). I built in a plywood floor to provide even support, and strapped in the tank with galvanized pipe strap. Look carefully at marine heads. Many of them are smaller around and much shorter than what you may be used to at home. I built a box platform to elevate the Jabsco head I installed. It is constructed from 3/4" plywood, sanded and painted with white polyurethane. It takes a close look to tell its not fiberglass. Peggy's forum has lots of good advice on sanitation systems. Also, the Boat US catalog has a very good technical section on head installation and maintenance, on pages 479-481 of their annual equipment catalog. Good luck on the project!
I replaced the recirculating head on my '78 Hunter 30 a few years ago. Since I was unable to find parts for repair, the only option was a new head and holding tank. (A Port-a-Potti was not an option for me... I had one in a smaller boat.) A 9 gal. holding tank from Boat US fit very nicely into the center, V-berth locker. With some maneuvering, it went through the locker opening without cutting fiberglas. (Peggy Hall, HOW's Head Mistress may have something larger to fit). I built in a plywood floor to provide even support, and strapped in the tank with galvanized pipe strap. Look carefully at marine heads. Many of them are smaller around and much shorter than what you may be used to at home. I built a box platform to elevate the Jabsco head I installed. It is constructed from 3/4" plywood, sanded and painted with white polyurethane. It takes a close look to tell its not fiberglass. Peggy's forum has lots of good advice on sanitation systems. Also, the Boat US catalog has a very good technical section on head installation and maintenance, on pages 479-481 of their annual equipment catalog. Good luck on the project!
Me, too
I also have a '78 Hunter 30 and replaced a non-functional electric head when I bought the boat 2 years ago. There was no holding tank. Since I didn't want to lose storage space, I compromised with a "self-contained" head (one step up from a porta potti). I don't remember the brand but I got it at BoatUS. It has about a 6 gallon capacity and a self-contained flush-water reservoir I can fill from the faucet in the head compartment. More importantly, it has a connection for a pumpout/overboard line. I have never had to remove it to empty it. I just go to the local pumpout. Works great with fewer moving parts and seals and takes up no more space than the old head. It even sits a little higher because of the storage tank.
I also have a '78 Hunter 30 and replaced a non-functional electric head when I bought the boat 2 years ago. There was no holding tank. Since I didn't want to lose storage space, I compromised with a "self-contained" head (one step up from a porta potti). I don't remember the brand but I got it at BoatUS. It has about a 6 gallon capacity and a self-contained flush-water reservoir I can fill from the faucet in the head compartment. More importantly, it has a connection for a pumpout/overboard line. I have never had to remove it to empty it. I just go to the local pumpout. Works great with fewer moving parts and seals and takes up no more space than the old head. It even sits a little higher because of the storage tank.
Flexible tank
I am not sure of the H-30 layout but, My last two cruisers had flexible holding tanks and I never had a problem with them. They fit almost anywhere and are light weight.
I am not sure of the H-30 layout but, My last two cruisers had flexible holding tanks and I never had a problem with them. They fit almost anywhere and are light weight.
Holding Tank Location
I installed a head and holding tank on my old 25 last year. The biggest problem I had was fitting the plywood platform that the tank lives on into the V-berth storage area. Trial fitting with cardboard might be a good idea. Also, be careful that any strapping used to secure the tank doesn't chafe through the tank. I've never used a pumpable porta-potty, but Peggy Hall seems to like them. Hopefully we can get some more input from people using this type of system.
I installed a head and holding tank on my old 25 last year. The biggest problem I had was fitting the plywood platform that the tank lives on into the V-berth storage area. Trial fitting with cardboard might be a good idea. Also, be careful that any strapping used to secure the tank doesn't chafe through the tank. I've never used a pumpable porta-potty, but Peggy Hall seems to like them. Hopefully we can get some more input from people using this type of system.
Pumpable portapotties IMHO...
I consider them an excellent an alternative on smaller boats (23-26') where storage space is limited enough without filling up a major portion of it with a 10-15 gallon tank, but I don't consider them adequate, or even appropriate for a 30' boat. Below about 27', life aboard can best be compared to "floating camping with an indoor toilet"...there just isn't room for the amenities to make it much more than that. But starting at 27-28', boats begin to offer more of the "bells and whistles" that add to creature comfort, and have a LOT more storage space. It also has to do with what's considered appropriate. I remember years ago a customer who owned a 110' mega-yacht...he wanted new toilets because he felt that on a boat that size, his guests should have something a bit "classier" than the toilet on a typical 27' sailboat. That perception also applies to the difference between a 40' sailboat and a 30' sailboat and a 25' sailboat. There comes a point at which it's appropriate for alcohol stoves to give way to CNG or propane, and portapotties to give way to "real" marine sanitation systems. There CAN be exceptions: if it's 20 miles to the nearest pumpout, but there are plenty of toilets in which to dump a portapotty, the ability to do either can come in VERY handy. But unless there's a reason, I'd never recommend a portapotty on a 30' boat.
I consider them an excellent an alternative on smaller boats (23-26') where storage space is limited enough without filling up a major portion of it with a 10-15 gallon tank, but I don't consider them adequate, or even appropriate for a 30' boat. Below about 27', life aboard can best be compared to "floating camping with an indoor toilet"...there just isn't room for the amenities to make it much more than that. But starting at 27-28', boats begin to offer more of the "bells and whistles" that add to creature comfort, and have a LOT more storage space. It also has to do with what's considered appropriate. I remember years ago a customer who owned a 110' mega-yacht...he wanted new toilets because he felt that on a boat that size, his guests should have something a bit "classier" than the toilet on a typical 27' sailboat. That perception also applies to the difference between a 40' sailboat and a 30' sailboat and a 25' sailboat. There comes a point at which it's appropriate for alcohol stoves to give way to CNG or propane, and portapotties to give way to "real" marine sanitation systems. There CAN be exceptions: if it's 20 miles to the nearest pumpout, but there are plenty of toilets in which to dump a portapotty, the ability to do either can come in VERY handy. But unless there's a reason, I'd never recommend a portapotty on a 30' boat.
Jabsco electric is nice to have
We put in a jabsco electric (quiet flush is better and obviously quieter but much more money and sucks away your potable water) head that works great. Running wire was biggest problem. Its nice to tell land lubbers to use the head and then "push this button" till bowl is clear as opposed to the typical 5 minute demo that they don't remember anyway. Polyeth. tanks are great if you religiously use tank treatment and flush the tank after empty. They come in all sizes and shapes. We put a 14 gallon one under dining bench on otherside of head bulkhead. Water from seacock to head intake, 1.5 inch out hose to tank and tank vent hose to top side vent. Remember to use vented loops as recommended to stop possible sighon. And shut of raw water seacock when leaving boat. Happy sailing doug
We put in a jabsco electric (quiet flush is better and obviously quieter but much more money and sucks away your potable water) head that works great. Running wire was biggest problem. Its nice to tell land lubbers to use the head and then "push this button" till bowl is clear as opposed to the typical 5 minute demo that they don't remember anyway. Polyeth. tanks are great if you religiously use tank treatment and flush the tank after empty. They come in all sizes and shapes. We put a 14 gallon one under dining bench on otherside of head bulkhead. Water from seacock to head intake, 1.5 inch out hose to tank and tank vent hose to top side vent. Remember to use vented loops as recommended to stop possible sighon. And shut of raw water seacock when leaving boat. Happy sailing doug
When you only push button till bowl is clear...
You're asking for permeated hose and clogs...'cuz when you take your finger off the button (or stop pumping a manual toilet), whatever is in the hose stops moving right there. So if you stop pumping as soon as the bowl is clear, whatever was in the bowl will just sit in the hose right below the bowl till the next person pushes it a little further by only flushing till the bowl is clear...and the next. Depending upon the length of your discharge hose, there can be 4 or 5 flushes left sitting in the hose to permeate it. It's especially important to make sure the bowl contents go all the way through the hose if you have a Lectra/San...'cuz it can't treat what isn't in it. The article in the Head MIstress reference library called "Flush With Success" explains in detail how to correctly flush a marine toilet--without filling up your holding tank with flush water.
You're asking for permeated hose and clogs...'cuz when you take your finger off the button (or stop pumping a manual toilet), whatever is in the hose stops moving right there. So if you stop pumping as soon as the bowl is clear, whatever was in the bowl will just sit in the hose right below the bowl till the next person pushes it a little further by only flushing till the bowl is clear...and the next. Depending upon the length of your discharge hose, there can be 4 or 5 flushes left sitting in the hose to permeate it. It's especially important to make sure the bowl contents go all the way through the hose if you have a Lectra/San...'cuz it can't treat what isn't in it. The article in the Head MIstress reference library called "Flush With Success" explains in detail how to correctly flush a marine toilet--without filling up your holding tank with flush water.
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