New cabin eyebrows.

[Ed Schenck]

I just ordered six pieces of one inch mahogany cut to 5/32" thickness. Yard only had 8' boards. I will need three pieces each side to replace the long gone teak eyebrows. The original screw holes also filled. How would you guys connect and attach?

 

[Scott]

Like you, I filled the old holes. Ran the 4 pieces on my router table to make half round. I needed about 13', so used boring bit to make a concave end to match the convex end on the other piece. Caulked around the new drill holes, screwed on one piece and then mated the two fitted ends. Turned out very well.

 

[Ed Schenck]

I'll have to do a standard miter I guess. No router here. Did you glue the joints Scott? What about screws? My plan is just to use oval headed brass. With a bead of clear silicone the entire length and around the screws.

 

[Scott]

Pre-drilled and placed the screws as close to the joint as possible. I mixed teak sawdust with a tad of clear caulk and rubbed into the joint. Counter sunk and used flat head screws, then put in teak plugs. Since the screw holes in the fiberglass were filled with caulk, I didn't run a bead of caulk along the top.

 

[med2463]

Pics please when you are done.

 

[sandpiper10471]

Now Ed, son't be letting Maine Sail know you are going to use silicone! You know how he feels about it. Did you consider butyl tape?

 

[Ed Schenck]

Pictures forthcoming. Here are two showing my decision to stay with the teak handrails. Took a lot of stripper and sanding and I still have a lot of black in there. But I just don't have time for bleaching. One short rail hanging vertically on right has four coats and is finished. Just one coat on one long rail and the other short rail. So I will have the eyebrow mahogany on Tuesday to try to match color to these.

I will keep the screws exposed for the eyebrow just like I do for the handrails. So nice to take it all home and work in the basement.

I know Maine doesn't like silicone Bill. And I forget why. It works so well for me. Anywhere I use it, around the mast and the chainplates for example, there has never been a leak. It sticks well and never hardens. But if you have to scrape it off then you can. Plus it is hard to make a mess with the Clear.

 

[Ed A]

ED. why would you not dot the trim like you did the rails? the tape is great and easy to use no mess....
it is really nice to use and andcan be taken off on on.

Suprised yourdoing that,i liked it without the trim. I guess you guys with time like the look enough to redo it...
I think i would paint the damn a stripe where it was before i would replace it.

lol.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Its the time thing Ed. I can work at home but not at the boat. I am going to have the lumber yard also rout a nice edge top and bottom. I will have to buy a drill press though. Lost so many tools in the moves. Then four coats of varnish and all I have to do at the boat is screw it on. The other option is to hire it done and I cannot afford much of that.

 

[sandpiper10471]

By the time you fill the old holes and install the new eyebrows, you could easily have faired the whole thing out well and applied a strip of paint one inch wide or stuck on some of that plastic striping they sell for the automotive business, same as we have below the gunwales.

 

[Ed Schenck]

You mean like this Bill? That's what I did years ago and it is coming off.

Speaking of striping tape I need a multi-stripe roll to patch some Erie Canal damage. The original roll of 3M, five striipes sliced down to three, was free from a friend. Now I see it is $90. a roll !

 

[sandpiper10471]

A very fine job, Ed. S. Well done!!!