I posted a few weeks ago regarding replacing the alternator on an 89 Catalina 30, with a Universal M25XP. Thanks to Stu Jackson with his excellent reply (as usual). After much research I decided to go with a Leece-Neville model 8MR2058PA which has an output of 72 amps and is an exact fit to the previous Motorola 51 amp. I am also going with the Balmar ARS-4 or MC-612, I have not made a final decision on Regulators yet. The Leece-Neville does come with internal regulation, however the local alternator shop was able to easily remove the internal regulation so it is ready to go. Now to the problem. I am great at wiring, a real craftsman when it comes to crimping and heat shrinking, I however do not fully understand all of the terminiology of alternators and external regulators. I have downloaded the manuals for the Balmar products and am completly confused as to how to install their product. The alternator I purchased has the following terminals; Battery Positive, Aux, Field, Stator and Ground. The Balmar instructions make no sense to me at all. Before I call in a Pro,(if I can find one). can anyone explain in terms a "dummy" can understand how this all goes back together. I currently run (2)Group 27 AGM batteries which is wired through an Isolator which a PO had installed. At one time there was a dedicated starting battery under the quarter berth next to the fuel tank. The wires are still there, but I have not used a third battery since taking ownership. I would have to say this is a faily easy installation compared to some of the diagrams that I have seen. I can be contacted off line at jaffew@welchallyn.com. Thanks for the help.
New Alternator
- Thread starter chief14326
- Start date
- Status
Process of elimination
Most new alternators come with a plug in the back. With your modified Leece-Neville, you just have two wires to connect instead of the plug. So, look in the manuals that show the plug from the regulator and determine which of the two wires is which and connect those. The grounds and positives are pretty easy. The only potentially confusing one is the tach, which if you leave it for last, becomes a no brainer. I recommend that you get a big piece of blank paper and draw it out first with the instructions from the regulator before you do anything on the boat. If you do it that way, it'll become a lot clearer. Check out the differences between the ARS-4 or MC-612 in terms of being able to manage output voltages. The more choices you have the more worthwhile is the cost. For instance, if the battery sense is connected to the back of the alternator (as opposed to the choice of running back to the battery bank) then being able to up the alternator voltage to make up for the voltage drop in the wiring from the alternator to the bank is very handy. I'd also suggest that folks contact you right here - how else can anyone learn?
Most new alternators come with a plug in the back. With your modified Leece-Neville, you just have two wires to connect instead of the plug. So, look in the manuals that show the plug from the regulator and determine which of the two wires is which and connect those. The grounds and positives are pretty easy. The only potentially confusing one is the tach, which if you leave it for last, becomes a no brainer. I recommend that you get a big piece of blank paper and draw it out first with the instructions from the regulator before you do anything on the boat. If you do it that way, it'll become a lot clearer. Check out the differences between the ARS-4 or MC-612 in terms of being able to manage output voltages. The more choices you have the more worthwhile is the cost. For instance, if the battery sense is connected to the back of the alternator (as opposed to the choice of running back to the battery bank) then being able to up the alternator voltage to make up for the voltage drop in the wiring from the alternator to the bank is very handy. I'd also suggest that folks contact you right here - how else can anyone learn?
Regulator Comparison
I just checked the catalogs for the ARS-4. It has pretty much the same capabilities as the M612. If it's less $$, I'd buy it. The major differences: a few less programmable functions and lights instead of an LED readout for settings. Otherwise, it has all the different voltage regimens you'll ever need. I bought the M612 because I got a great price on it at a boat show.
I just checked the catalogs for the ARS-4. It has pretty much the same capabilities as the M612. If it's less $$, I'd buy it. The major differences: a few less programmable functions and lights instead of an LED readout for settings. Otherwise, it has all the different voltage regimens you'll ever need. I bought the M612 because I got a great price on it at a boat show.
Chief..
The Balmar has a wiring harness with 5 wires that you connect back to the new alternator, positive,negitive and the new terminals field and stator and the 5th wire is ignition or a switched 12 volt source. If you have more ? email me and I'll give you my local phone # RADESIMONE1@aol.com
The Balmar has a wiring harness with 5 wires that you connect back to the new alternator, positive,negitive and the new terminals field and stator and the 5th wire is ignition or a switched 12 volt source. If you have more ? email me and I'll give you my local phone # RADESIMONE1@aol.com
Fuses
Recently Hunters sent out fuse kits to owners whose boats were not correctly protected. There were several low current wires but only protected by 100 amp fuses. This was a recognition of the risks and excellent practice. I note that most non-integral alternator regulators have relatively thin wires connecting between the alternator and the regulator. Also the battery sense wire which goes directly to the batt + terminal is light gauge. In the event of a short circuit the alternator or the battery has plenty of power to make these wires red hot and cause a fire. The engine compartment is the worst environment because it has vibration to chafe through insulation, a large grounded engine hot enough to soften wiring insulation and a supply of fuel. I have taken this issue up with regulator manufacturers and, of course, they deny any need for fusing. This cannot be the case. Everyone with a non-integral regulator is at risk - including myself! Please think carefully about the proposed installation as it so is easy to fit 10 amp in line fuses.
Recently Hunters sent out fuse kits to owners whose boats were not correctly protected. There were several low current wires but only protected by 100 amp fuses. This was a recognition of the risks and excellent practice. I note that most non-integral alternator regulators have relatively thin wires connecting between the alternator and the regulator. Also the battery sense wire which goes directly to the batt + terminal is light gauge. In the event of a short circuit the alternator or the battery has plenty of power to make these wires red hot and cause a fire. The engine compartment is the worst environment because it has vibration to chafe through insulation, a large grounded engine hot enough to soften wiring insulation and a supply of fuel. I have taken this issue up with regulator manufacturers and, of course, they deny any need for fusing. This cannot be the case. Everyone with a non-integral regulator is at risk - including myself! Please think carefully about the proposed installation as it so is easy to fit 10 amp in line fuses.
Read this article on installing a Leece Neville
I wrote an article a few years ago about doing the same upgrade you are doing. I used a Leece Neville 90 amp and an ARS-4. The article has some pictures of the wiring as well. Here's the link: http://www.catalina36.org/site2004/Article_alternator-battery.htm If you need larger picture e-mail me via my name at the bottom of that article and i should be able to find them...
I wrote an article a few years ago about doing the same upgrade you are doing. I used a Leece Neville 90 amp and an ARS-4. The article has some pictures of the wiring as well. Here's the link: http://www.catalina36.org/site2004/Article_alternator-battery.htm If you need larger picture e-mail me via my name at the bottom of that article and i should be able to find them...
- Status