My 2004 Hunter 36 was commissioned April 1st, 2004. On October 10th I was motoring with a trio of boats on the Chesapeake when my engine quit. After being towed to our marina destination, we discovered my fuel filter was covered with algae. And by the looks of the fuel, it was contaminated with the same. My boat was commissioned with a nearly a full tank of fuel by my dealer, and several weeks prior to my mishap, the service department for my dealer topped off the tank with about 13 gallons. My dealer insists that the algae did not come from her fuel tanks and is not responsible for the contamination. The service department manager also on several occasions told me it was unnecessary to add an antibacterial agent to the tank. My dealer states that I probably got a few drops of salt water in the tank through the fuel exhaust when heeling excessively on a rough day. (The exhaust vent sits above the freeboard.) I spoke with a Hunter representitive about the situation and he believes that the algae was probably in the tank when the boat was commissioned, and it most likely came from the dealers' fuel tank. He found it highly unusual for algae to exist in a new boat that's been in use for only 6 months. He also stated that there is a very remote chance that salt water could enter through the vent, but he said it's not likely and he's never heard of any cases. At this point, I am sucking up the cost. I don't know if I should take legal action. Anyone else out there with suggestions or a similar experience?
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New Boats DO NOT Have Algae
The introduction of contamination has to be where the fuel came from. Any dealer should tell you that. Do you have the fuel receipts? If the boat has an hour meter, you can also corellate them to the usage. But the best idea is to treat it and polish the fuel before it gets worse. Negotiate the cost, but don't let it stop you from correcting the problem (although your season is just about through, anyway). Don't let it sit untreated over the winter. It'll only get worse. Sorry to hear that this happened to you with a brand new boat. Always treat any fuel as suspect. Treat new fuel and check filters frequently.
The introduction of contamination has to be where the fuel came from. Any dealer should tell you that. Do you have the fuel receipts? If the boat has an hour meter, you can also corellate them to the usage. But the best idea is to treat it and polish the fuel before it gets worse. Negotiate the cost, but don't let it stop you from correcting the problem (although your season is just about through, anyway). Don't let it sit untreated over the winter. It'll only get worse. Sorry to hear that this happened to you with a brand new boat. Always treat any fuel as suspect. Treat new fuel and check filters frequently.
Agree w/ Hunter
It's a new boat and even though I have no clue how long fuel was sitting in the tank before you took delivery it isn't likely the tank would have a permanent scum problem. Maybe the fuel fill cap was a bit loose and water entered via the fill? Who knows. Anyway, rather than get all stressed out, as a low-cost solution, I'd recommend getting some Gerry cans or some other type of container, even plastic gallon milk cartons, and pump the fuel out with an electric drill with a pump attachment. Take the fuel to the county recycle center or hazardous waste collection center. Access to the tank could be via a long hose through the fuel fill or maybe take off the tank gauge and access there. Put in new fuel and start using a biocide-type fuel conditioner.
It's a new boat and even though I have no clue how long fuel was sitting in the tank before you took delivery it isn't likely the tank would have a permanent scum problem. Maybe the fuel fill cap was a bit loose and water entered via the fill? Who knows. Anyway, rather than get all stressed out, as a low-cost solution, I'd recommend getting some Gerry cans or some other type of container, even plastic gallon milk cartons, and pump the fuel out with an electric drill with a pump attachment. Take the fuel to the county recycle center or hazardous waste collection center. Access to the tank could be via a long hose through the fuel fill or maybe take off the tank gauge and access there. Put in new fuel and start using a biocide-type fuel conditioner.
Agree with Hunter
Hunter's argument is more logical. Besides, those of us who sail on or near the Chesapeake experience no such increae in algae in the tank, much less on a new boat.
Hunter's argument is more logical. Besides, those of us who sail on or near the Chesapeake experience no such increae in algae in the tank, much less on a new boat.
I've had it twice
Over the nine seasons I have had my boat (H376) I have had fuel bug twice. On each occasion my engine stopped almost exactly 3 days after adding fuel to the tank. I am convinced that I bought the water with the fuel. It takes about 1/2 gallon of water to cause enough mess to reach the pickup pipe. Interestingly in both cases the supplier's fuel storage tanks were floating in sea water ( one was a fuelling barge). Also in both cases the supplier had only just filled his tanks. I find tales about condensation hard to accept. I now use "Fuel Set" and hope and pray.
Over the nine seasons I have had my boat (H376) I have had fuel bug twice. On each occasion my engine stopped almost exactly 3 days after adding fuel to the tank. I am convinced that I bought the water with the fuel. It takes about 1/2 gallon of water to cause enough mess to reach the pickup pipe. Interestingly in both cases the supplier's fuel storage tanks were floating in sea water ( one was a fuelling barge). Also in both cases the supplier had only just filled his tanks. I find tales about condensation hard to accept. I now use "Fuel Set" and hope and pray.
Don't Do It !!!
John- you wrote ....."as a low-cost solution, I'd recommend getting some Gerry cans or some other type of container, even plastic gallon milk cartons, and pump the fuel out with an electric drill with a pump attachment" First off - do not store or transfer fuel in any container except a UL or USCG approved fuel container. Second - Do not attempt to transfer fuel with an elecric drill driven pump. Electric dril = spark= fire and or explosion. A burn is THE MOST painfull injury possible to a human being. Spring for the right equipment.
John- you wrote ....."as a low-cost solution, I'd recommend getting some Gerry cans or some other type of container, even plastic gallon milk cartons, and pump the fuel out with an electric drill with a pump attachment" First off - do not store or transfer fuel in any container except a UL or USCG approved fuel container. Second - Do not attempt to transfer fuel with an elecric drill driven pump. Electric dril = spark= fire and or explosion. A burn is THE MOST painfull injury possible to a human being. Spring for the right equipment.
Mike - I'll Tweak It a Bit
Gerry cans - plastic yellow ones - are made for and approved for diesel use. Recommend transferring fuel to the Gerry can and transport it to the hazardous waste or recycle center, and pour the fuel into the plastic milk carton and leave it with them. In my area I've never had a problem leaving used motor oil or other stuff like that with them in such containers. As for the electric drill diesel fuel pump, true, the Jabsco one I have is not for "flammable" liquids, like gasoline. It's silent about diesel which is a flammable liquid but has a very high flash point. Therefore, to be on the safe side, revise to using a hand pump. Jabsco, and I'm certain other companies, make hand pumps which are approved for use with diesel. http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfoApp/servlet/DisplayItemDetail?itemId=33799-0000&catalogId=Marine&categoryId=JMGEN&typeId=JMGOC
Gerry cans - plastic yellow ones - are made for and approved for diesel use. Recommend transferring fuel to the Gerry can and transport it to the hazardous waste or recycle center, and pour the fuel into the plastic milk carton and leave it with them. In my area I've never had a problem leaving used motor oil or other stuff like that with them in such containers. As for the electric drill diesel fuel pump, true, the Jabsco one I have is not for "flammable" liquids, like gasoline. It's silent about diesel which is a flammable liquid but has a very high flash point. Therefore, to be on the safe side, revise to using a hand pump. Jabsco, and I'm certain other companies, make hand pumps which are approved for use with diesel. http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfoApp/servlet/DisplayItemDetail?itemId=33799-0000&catalogId=Marine&categoryId=JMGEN&typeId=JMGOC
Porta Quick
I brought a Porta Quick oil changer for my fuel tank problems a few years ago. Removed the tank level gauge from the tank and inserted the hose. Pumped into 5 gallon cans until the tank was empty. Reversed the flow direction and used the last can of fuel to wash the inside of the tank. Then pumped it out. Gave the diesel to a construction contractor who burned it in his construction heaters. Cleaned the oil changer out and have since used it to pump hydralic fluid out of the transmission of my tractor when working on it. Next time that I have fuel problems, I will be ready to pump again. Thinking about using it to build a fuel polishing unit.
I brought a Porta Quick oil changer for my fuel tank problems a few years ago. Removed the tank level gauge from the tank and inserted the hose. Pumped into 5 gallon cans until the tank was empty. Reversed the flow direction and used the last can of fuel to wash the inside of the tank. Then pumped it out. Gave the diesel to a construction contractor who burned it in his construction heaters. Cleaned the oil changer out and have since used it to pump hydralic fluid out of the transmission of my tractor when working on it. Next time that I have fuel problems, I will be ready to pump again. Thinking about using it to build a fuel polishing unit.
Follow-up on my new 36
After some extensive researching and speaking to the sages of the seas, I am convinced that the algae/crud in my fuel tank was present when my boat was commissioned. The Hunter rep also informed me that they ship their new boats with 5 gallons of fuel from Florida to the dealers. I know that my boat was on the hard prior to the 2003 Annapolis boat show (when I bought it) and it was put in the water in January 2004. I don't know if the tank was filled then or when it was commissioned April 1, 2004. Either way, there was a significant amount of time that the tank had little fuel, which set up an opportunity for condensation and thus, a good environment for algae growth. My dealer stated that they put Killum in the tank on commissioning, but if algae already existed, would the algae disappear? And if it wasn't present, why wouldn't the Killum do its job if my tank was full the past 6 months? I only had it topped off once about a month ago with about 13 gallons. The job of emptying my tank of 25 gallons via the tank sensor was time consuming and messy, along with cleaning out the impressive amounts black goo from the bottom using lots of clean rags. When the tank was clean and dry, we refilled it with 20 gallons of fresh diesel through a filter. We also added Biobar, along with the recommended cetane fuel booster and lubricity additives per my dealer's service manager. After bleeding the lines, we started the engine (initially with raw water intake closed)and it coughed and sputtered briefly before it hummed the familiar rhythm of a diesel engine. We found a small fuel leak around the bleed nut on top of the secondary filter after running the engine for a while. Does that nut need to be tightly snugged or replaced once loosened?
After some extensive researching and speaking to the sages of the seas, I am convinced that the algae/crud in my fuel tank was present when my boat was commissioned. The Hunter rep also informed me that they ship their new boats with 5 gallons of fuel from Florida to the dealers. I know that my boat was on the hard prior to the 2003 Annapolis boat show (when I bought it) and it was put in the water in January 2004. I don't know if the tank was filled then or when it was commissioned April 1, 2004. Either way, there was a significant amount of time that the tank had little fuel, which set up an opportunity for condensation and thus, a good environment for algae growth. My dealer stated that they put Killum in the tank on commissioning, but if algae already existed, would the algae disappear? And if it wasn't present, why wouldn't the Killum do its job if my tank was full the past 6 months? I only had it topped off once about a month ago with about 13 gallons. The job of emptying my tank of 25 gallons via the tank sensor was time consuming and messy, along with cleaning out the impressive amounts black goo from the bottom using lots of clean rags. When the tank was clean and dry, we refilled it with 20 gallons of fresh diesel through a filter. We also added Biobar, along with the recommended cetane fuel booster and lubricity additives per my dealer's service manager. After bleeding the lines, we started the engine (initially with raw water intake closed)and it coughed and sputtered briefly before it hummed the familiar rhythm of a diesel engine. We found a small fuel leak around the bleed nut on top of the secondary filter after running the engine for a while. Does that nut need to be tightly snugged or replaced once loosened?
you need to replace the washer
the bleed screw should have a plastic washer. If there is a fuel leak replace the washer and snug up the bleed screw.
the bleed screw should have a plastic washer. If there is a fuel leak replace the washer and snug up the bleed screw.
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