Our new 33 was delivered at the end of March 2004. We have had various issues but some continue. #1. Our 33 is loaded with A/C, TV/DVD and Inverter. We have "never" been able to run everything with shore power at the same time. We have noted that, no matter where we dock, if we try to run the hot water heater, the A/C and the TV at the same time the main boat breaker in the large cockpit locker trips. Some people say that we should have a separate 30 amp cord for the A/C, however Hunter says that the one 30 Amp power supply is sufficient. We are now speculating that the problem could be a defective breaker which trips before reaching the max 30amps. Anyone had any similar problems? Anyone have all of the equipment and not had a problem? #2. We have also had a problem with the fuel sender in the diesel tank and the diesel tank indicator. Finally, we have been advised by our dealer's service rep. that the tank has a sag at the top(plastice tank) and as a result, the prescribed sender by Hunter touchs the bottom of the tank and hence does not work properly. A new sender was order that is 1/2 inch shorter than the prescribed sender and appears to have solved the problem. #3. Our engine has failed on numerous occasions and then it has been "fixed" and then it goes out again. We have had overheating which seems to be corrected after discovery that Yanmar put a seawater pump belt on that was 1 inch too large and slipped and did not turn the pump. We have also had water in the fuel tank which caused the engine to stall and it still remains a mystery as to how the water got into the tank. Hunter speculated that it could be bad fuel or that there was a bad o-ring on the filler cap. The fuel and the filler cap have been replaced and we are waiting to determine if there is water in the fuel again which caused the engine to stall when we were attempting to go through a railroad draw bridge and a car draw bridge while there were high winds. Because of the high winds and the engine failure our 33 was blown against the concrete pilings of the railroad bridge and reaked havoc, a May Day(we are awaiting the damage estimate). We feel fortunate to have survived this and quite concerned about solving the engine issue. There is speculation that there could be a defective air vent which is allowing water into the tank. Yanmar North America has informed us that another new Hunter owner had this problem and reaked havoc on the engine. Has anyone had any similar experiences with water in fuel issues on a new Hunter?
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No respondents
I am getting "no" response. Is this because my boat is the only new Hunter 33 with these problems?
I am getting "no" response. Is this because my boat is the only new Hunter 33 with these problems?
Not that many out there and its winter
Theres only 43 owner registered here. Up in VA and parts north, we're snowed in and only with could be out in our boats having problems. Good luck. Mark
Theres only 43 owner registered here. Up in VA and parts north, we're snowed in and only with could be out in our boats having problems. Good luck. Mark
None of those problems experienced, yet
Sorry, but no issues here. However, thanks to all those who've posted the belt issue with the 29HP Yanmar. I took delivery on Oct 29, 2004, and been out 6 times. No problems with overheating or fuel tank indicator, or water in the filter. My only problem is that I don't get out as much, especially today w/80 degree temps.
Sorry, but no issues here. However, thanks to all those who've posted the belt issue with the 29HP Yanmar. I took delivery on Oct 29, 2004, and been out 6 times. No problems with overheating or fuel tank indicator, or water in the filter. My only problem is that I don't get out as much, especially today w/80 degree temps.
Re: new H33 issues
John, I don't have A/C, etc, so have not had any issues with too much power to blow fuses. While my engine has not overheated, I had a problem of leaking coolant (my bilge is slightly redish as a result). We finially found the problem during my 50 hour engine service. A pressure check located the leak: the hose that goes to the water heater was rubbing on a screw under the floor just aft of the thru hull valve area. The other engine problemf was a malfunctioning fire suppression system, which required that I run the engine with the switch on the engine panel in override (and still is that way, awaiting a new halon (I think it is halon??) tank. Another annoying issue is how short the door is leading to the V birth. There is a 1" or greater gap at the bottom of the door when closed. Hunter won't do anything about it because it seems to be a 'design issue' common to all the 33's. Another annoying issue, is that all the storage on the H33 is on the port side of the boat - hence a list to port... Aside from the above, I am thoroughly enjoying the boat - handles well, etc. Michael
John, I don't have A/C, etc, so have not had any issues with too much power to blow fuses. While my engine has not overheated, I had a problem of leaking coolant (my bilge is slightly redish as a result). We finially found the problem during my 50 hour engine service. A pressure check located the leak: the hose that goes to the water heater was rubbing on a screw under the floor just aft of the thru hull valve area. The other engine problemf was a malfunctioning fire suppression system, which required that I run the engine with the switch on the engine panel in override (and still is that way, awaiting a new halon (I think it is halon??) tank. Another annoying issue is how short the door is leading to the V birth. There is a 1" or greater gap at the bottom of the door when closed. Hunter won't do anything about it because it seems to be a 'design issue' common to all the 33's. Another annoying issue, is that all the storage on the H33 is on the port side of the boat - hence a list to port... Aside from the above, I am thoroughly enjoying the boat - handles well, etc. Michael
H33 Problems
John, My '04 33 was splashed this past June in NJ. My first trip out, the engine overheated at what could have been the worst possible place for it to happen. Fortunately, I was able to clear the channel and drop anchor and await repair. The engine has been no problem since then. I did have the temp alarm go off another time while motoring in Fl. I checked the raw water intake and removed the strainer, out popped a mangrove seed. Problem solved. This past September, I had it trucked down here to Miami. When it was hauled, there was some sort of blistering on the keel. I never could get an answer from Hunter on whether it was an issue with the keel, or the bottom job. It did necessitate a new bottom job after only being in the water for 3 months. I lived aboard in Miami for 2 months. I had the breaker trip when I ran the Microwave with the AC and water heater on. It never occurred to me to contact Hunter. I just was careful about what I was using together at any given time. My tank monitor panel also went. I had it replaced. All problems aside, I've been enjoying the boat. All my buddies back in NJ have their boats on stands right now. I kicked off the new year with a nice little solo on Biscayne Bay. It's great to be able to sail all year long. But, by far, the worst problem of all is that the birds down here seem to enjoy target practice on my decks. I used to get upset in NJ when a sea gull had a crab snack on my deck, but down here, it's unbelievable. I'm thinking of raising a rubber chicken on my flag halyard like the guy I read about in one of the mags. Good luck, you'll get the bugs worked out and will really enjoy the boat. John H33 "Two And Two"
John, My '04 33 was splashed this past June in NJ. My first trip out, the engine overheated at what could have been the worst possible place for it to happen. Fortunately, I was able to clear the channel and drop anchor and await repair. The engine has been no problem since then. I did have the temp alarm go off another time while motoring in Fl. I checked the raw water intake and removed the strainer, out popped a mangrove seed. Problem solved. This past September, I had it trucked down here to Miami. When it was hauled, there was some sort of blistering on the keel. I never could get an answer from Hunter on whether it was an issue with the keel, or the bottom job. It did necessitate a new bottom job after only being in the water for 3 months. I lived aboard in Miami for 2 months. I had the breaker trip when I ran the Microwave with the AC and water heater on. It never occurred to me to contact Hunter. I just was careful about what I was using together at any given time. My tank monitor panel also went. I had it replaced. All problems aside, I've been enjoying the boat. All my buddies back in NJ have their boats on stands right now. I kicked off the new year with a nice little solo on Biscayne Bay. It's great to be able to sail all year long. But, by far, the worst problem of all is that the birds down here seem to enjoy target practice on my decks. I used to get upset in NJ when a sea gull had a crab snack on my deck, but down here, it's unbelievable. I'm thinking of raising a rubber chicken on my flag halyard like the guy I read about in one of the mags. Good luck, you'll get the bugs worked out and will really enjoy the boat. John H33 "Two And Two"
New 33 Update
Today we took our 33 to the boatyard for repairs after the MayDay because of engine failure in high seas while trying to go through a draw bridge. It appears that the engine failure was again caused from water in the fuel and it now seems that there is a problem with the fuel air vent which allows water to enter very easily. In addition, this could explain the fuel sender problem because if the sensor is in fuel which is contaminated with water it will not worl properly. There can be water at the bottom of the tank and it may not be a problem until the boat has a serious heal and agitates the water in the fuel and then goes into the fuel line and stops the engine, but the sensor will not work properly long before the engine fails. "We will get to the bottom of this!!!" We will keep forum members informed.
Today we took our 33 to the boatyard for repairs after the MayDay because of engine failure in high seas while trying to go through a draw bridge. It appears that the engine failure was again caused from water in the fuel and it now seems that there is a problem with the fuel air vent which allows water to enter very easily. In addition, this could explain the fuel sender problem because if the sensor is in fuel which is contaminated with water it will not worl properly. There can be water at the bottom of the tank and it may not be a problem until the boat has a serious heal and agitates the water in the fuel and then goes into the fuel line and stops the engine, but the sensor will not work properly long before the engine fails. "We will get to the bottom of this!!!" We will keep forum members informed.
New 33 Fuel Tank
We are also haveing a problem with the fuel gauge, I will check out the water in the tank situation. My hull is #107. We had a fuel starvation problem cause by the fuel line having a check valve in the tank on one of the return line which caused some back pressure on the system preventing the engine from receiving the fuel. I have 90 hours on the engine and after the check valve was removed during the 1st week of ownership the engine has run great.
We are also haveing a problem with the fuel gauge, I will check out the water in the tank situation. My hull is #107. We had a fuel starvation problem cause by the fuel line having a check valve in the tank on one of the return line which caused some back pressure on the system preventing the engine from receiving the fuel. I have 90 hours on the engine and after the check valve was removed during the 1st week of ownership the engine has run great.
Power Update
John in Miami says he had the breaker blow while running the A/C, the water heater and the microwave all at the same time. All of these are factory installed items. I am waiting for confirmation from Hunter about whether this is suppose to happen. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether this would to much to expect?
John in Miami says he had the breaker blow while running the A/C, the water heater and the microwave all at the same time. All of these are factory installed items. I am waiting for confirmation from Hunter about whether this is suppose to happen. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether this would to much to expect?
He can figure out that answer for himself...
The standard shore power supply is a single 30 amp circuit. All he has to do is add up the total amperage draw for the m'wave, water heater and ac combined to see that it's more than 30 amps...and when the draw is greater than the supplied amps, it trips the breaker. Most boat owners learn quickly that life aboard often means learning to keep a mental note of how much each item draws and knowing which breaker(s) to flip off long to run something else...i.e., flip off the water heater long enough to use the m'wave...turn off the water heater AND the fridge breaker to use both the m'wave and an electric skillet or bread maker...etc. It soon becomes second nature. The alternative is to add a second 30 amp circuit and divide the load between 'em.
The standard shore power supply is a single 30 amp circuit. All he has to do is add up the total amperage draw for the m'wave, water heater and ac combined to see that it's more than 30 amps...and when the draw is greater than the supplied amps, it trips the breaker. Most boat owners learn quickly that life aboard often means learning to keep a mental note of how much each item draws and knowing which breaker(s) to flip off long to run something else...i.e., flip off the water heater long enough to use the m'wave...turn off the water heater AND the fridge breaker to use both the m'wave and an electric skillet or bread maker...etc. It soon becomes second nature. The alternative is to add a second 30 amp circuit and divide the load between 'em.
Power
John, 30 amps is probably sufficient, but it depends on your definition of sufficient. I don't know what size ac you are running, but it could easily be taking up a pretty good portion of the 30 amps at startup and its no lightweight while running. The microwave also takes a fair amount of energy. The tv is probably inconsequential. If you run the water heater at the same time that would be a large load. I don't think that Hunter or most smaller boat manufacturers ever designed the system to allow you to run everything at once. In fact, most homes aren't designed to do that either. In homes there are formulas that assume average load factors across circuits. The average outlet circuit in a home (15 amps) might have 6-12 outlets on it. The average vacumn cleaner these days draws 12 plus amps. Plug that in and a few other things on that circuit and its going to pop. Have you ever popped a home circuit breaker because the wife and daughter had the hair dryers on high at the same time and on the same circuit? It is possible that you have a weak breaker protecting the boat. However, I would take a look at the rating of the various equipment you are trying to run to calculate the total load you are throwing onto the system before I went after the breaker. Also, you might try to determine if the circuit is thrown during a startup load on the ac. That spike could easily be the cause, even if the remaining loads are fairly light. Some boats do have separate lines for the ac system. Mine has provisions for this at the panel, but no feed and no ac installed. Even with that, you would need to have two 30 amp ac outlets at the dock and hook up both cords. Effectively giving you 60 amps usable with 30 dedicated to the ac. Just turn off the water heater or microwave while running the ac or vice versa. It's about power management, a good thing to know and understand on a boat. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
John, 30 amps is probably sufficient, but it depends on your definition of sufficient. I don't know what size ac you are running, but it could easily be taking up a pretty good portion of the 30 amps at startup and its no lightweight while running. The microwave also takes a fair amount of energy. The tv is probably inconsequential. If you run the water heater at the same time that would be a large load. I don't think that Hunter or most smaller boat manufacturers ever designed the system to allow you to run everything at once. In fact, most homes aren't designed to do that either. In homes there are formulas that assume average load factors across circuits. The average outlet circuit in a home (15 amps) might have 6-12 outlets on it. The average vacumn cleaner these days draws 12 plus amps. Plug that in and a few other things on that circuit and its going to pop. Have you ever popped a home circuit breaker because the wife and daughter had the hair dryers on high at the same time and on the same circuit? It is possible that you have a weak breaker protecting the boat. However, I would take a look at the rating of the various equipment you are trying to run to calculate the total load you are throwing onto the system before I went after the breaker. Also, you might try to determine if the circuit is thrown during a startup load on the ac. That spike could easily be the cause, even if the remaining loads are fairly light. Some boats do have separate lines for the ac system. Mine has provisions for this at the panel, but no feed and no ac installed. Even with that, you would need to have two 30 amp ac outlets at the dock and hook up both cords. Effectively giving you 60 amps usable with 30 dedicated to the ac. Just turn off the water heater or microwave while running the ac or vice versa. It's about power management, a good thing to know and understand on a boat. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
John, These replies you're getting are right on.
Let me simplify what they are telling you. FORGET IT! No way that you can run that stuff at the same time! It's gonna blow/trip the breaker.
Let me simplify what they are telling you. FORGET IT! No way that you can run that stuff at the same time! It's gonna blow/trip the breaker.
adding up amperage/power draw
John,when adding up your amp total remember to use "start up" draw amperage when getting total. Some compressor and electric moter can draw twice there "running amp" at start up.The ac is a big big draw and combined with the water heater coming on at the same time your are pushing your total amps. Idealy the ac should be on it own power supply,with some lower drawing items.
John,when adding up your amp total remember to use "start up" draw amperage when getting total. Some compressor and electric moter can draw twice there "running amp" at start up.The ac is a big big draw and combined with the water heater coming on at the same time your are pushing your total amps. Idealy the ac should be on it own power supply,with some lower drawing items.
No problem?
John, If you ordered your boat from Hunter with factory air conditioning it should have two 30 amp circuits and cords just for this reason. Trying to run everything on one 30 amp line ain't gonna cut it.
John, If you ordered your boat from Hunter with factory air conditioning it should have two 30 amp circuits and cords just for this reason. Trying to run everything on one 30 amp line ain't gonna cut it.
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