New 170 sailor

stickinthemud57 · Apr 17, 2023

I used to own a 170 and loved that little boat. We decided to get something less "tippy" for the grandkids.

I did several videos, one of which details the stepping of the mast.

Mast-stepping video

Other videos

I can't tell from the picture, but something I took for granted was these quick-release shroud levers. They allow you to get the mast upright, then apply tension to the shrouds. Another 170 owner on this forum was having a heck of a time getting his mast stepped, and when I realized his boat was not equipped with them, I knew they would be the solution to his problem.

You mention that you plan to keep it in dry storage eventually, in which case the quick-release levers will not be used much, but until then I think you will find the $150 price tag well worth it.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions, and enjoy!

stickinthemud57 · Apr 17, 2023

Typical of H170's of this vintage. The hull is Luran plastic and does not bond with fiberglass, epoxy, or other such adhesives. A Google search for "hunter 170 cracks luran" will reveal a deluge of discussion on this topic. Bottom line: It's fixable with Plexus adhesive, properly applied.

Your profile pic may be the best avatar yet.

SKOTBRO · Apr 19, 2023

rsmithfh said:
I just bought a 2005 170. I used to sail sunfish as a kid and was pretty good at it, but I'm a little overwhelmed at the thought of figuring out how to rig this boat for the first time lol. I downloaded the pdf with the manual and I've looked around on youtube, but I have yet to find a diagram or video that makes sense to me. I also grabbed US Sailing's "Learn Sailing Right", which I'm in the process of reading.

I have the boat trailered at a storage compound about 15 minutes from the lake, but I'm on the waitlist, hoping to get a dry dock spot at the lake itself, where I can keep the boat trailered with the mast up and sails attached.

Anyone have any recommendations on info/getting started?

Welcome @rsmithfh, purchased my H170 back in November 2022. Currently in a rehab state.

stickinthemud57 · Apr 19, 2023

SKOTBRO,

It's apparent from the photos of the bottom that this boat has been beached a lot, which is really no problem in itself. If you feel inclined to paint the bottom, be sure to select a paint that adheres to plastic (i.e. Krylon spray paint). I did this with my boat after filling some scratches in the bottom. I can't say I would do it again, as it was difficult to get it as smooth as I wanted due to the tendency of the overspray to dry a bit on the rough side. Perhaps results would have been better if applied in a sheltered area?

SKOTBRO · Apr 19, 2023

stickinthemud57 said:
I used to own a 170 and loved that little boat. We decided to get something less "tippy" for the grandkids.

I did several videos, one of which details the stepping of the mast.

Mast-stepping video

Other videos

I can't tell from the picture, but something I took for granted was these quick-release shroud levers. They allow you to get the mast upright, then apply tension to the shrouds. Another 170 owner on this forum was having a heck of a time getting his mast stepped, and when I realized his boat was not equipped with them, I knew they would be the solution to his problem.

You mention that you plan to keep it in dry storage eventually, in which case the quick-release levers will not be used much, but until then I think you will find the $150 price tag well worth it.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions, and enjoy!

stickinthemud57, was the 170 extra tippy? Im a novice and plan on putting a 3.5hp motor on that I currently have. I don't plan on sailing hard when I have the motor but curious if it is an unstable hull.

SKOTBRO · Apr 19, 2023

stickinthemud57 said:
SKOTBRO,

It's apparent from the photos of the bottom that this boat has been beached a lot, which is really no problem in itself. If you feel inclined to paint the bottom, be sure to select a paint that adheres to plastic (i.e. Krylon spray paint). I did this with my boat after filling some scratches in the bottom. I can't say I would do it again, as it was difficult to get it as smooth as I wanted due to the tendency of the overspray to dry a bit on the rough side. Perhaps results would have been better if applied in a sheltered area?

It's not as bad as it looks, not sure what the previous owner did here, I'm thinking it was still on the trailer when applied as it's not thick and sands off easily in most places. I have read all the forums and watched your videos over and over so I have built up the confidence needed to tackle this project, LOL. I have also practiced sanding and buffing the surfaces down to a smooth finish and plan to practice and experiment using all the advice gathered from these forms and youtube videos... Thank you all for that.

stickinthemud57 · Apr 19, 2023

Oh, I see. I was assuming that the outer finish had worn off exposing the underlying layer.

If you do decide to paint, my advice would be to stop at the boot stripe if the finish above the waterline is still good. Ultimately I was successful, but had to resort to applying clear coat.

Glad you are enjoying the videos. I watch them from time to time and wax nostalgic.

SKOTBRO · Apr 19, 2023

stickinthemud57 said:
Oh, I see. I was assuming that the outer finish had worn off exposing the underlying layer.

If you do decide to paint, my advice would be to stop at the boot stripe if the finish above the waterline is still good. Ultimately I was successful, but had to resort to applying clear coat.

Glad you are enjoying the videos. I watch them from time to time and wax nostalgic.

so the clear coat adhered fine to the plastic paint with no issues? Were you able to buff it smooth after?

stickinthemud57 · Apr 19, 2023

For the product I used (which I can't recall the name of, sorry) there were less issues with the clearcoat
overspray drying rough than with the paint.

I applied 2 coats of white paint, wet sanded, and applied the clearcoat. Even with the "does not yellow" promise, I noticed slight inconsistencies in the evenness of the final application.

Honestly, if I had it to do over, I would have just filled the scratches and left it at that.

stickinthemud57 · Apr 19, 2023

SKOTBRO said:
stickinthemud57, was the 170 extra tippy? Im a novice and plan on putting a 3.5hp motor on that I currently have. I don't plan on sailing hard when I have the motor but curious if it is an unstable hull.

No, to the contrary. The 170 has a broad beam for a boat of its length and is very stable when compared to "performance" boats of the same length. I would definitely NOT characterize it as an unstable hull.

That said, it is a small boat with a centerboard. This makes it susceptible to capsizing and even turning turtle, one of which can be mildly amusing and the other a real PITA.

I used a 3.5 Mercury 4-cycle on mine and it seemed like a good fit. H170 owner's manual says 3 HP max. The motor sits so close to the rotational axis of the boat that it's weight is relatively inconsequential. Performance to windward differed a tiny bit (I think) due to the weight of the motor.

If you are worried about capsizing (which happens even when you are an experienced sailor. Ask me how I know.), I would recommend getting a float that attaches to the top of your mast to prevent turning turtle. Yes you may loose whatever is not properly secured, but you will, at least, not have to deal with getting the tip of your mast out of the mud. Again. Ask me how I know.

Small boats are tippy. The H170 less so than others, IMO.

PS - Once you gain some confidence, pick a day when winds are forecast to be favorable in velocity and direction and sail without the motor. This is real sailing, IMO, and how I learned to sail on boats ranging from 14 to 26 feet (Dad didn't go in for motors on a sailboat...).

Captain Larry-DH · Apr 20, 2023

As a former 170 owner I agree with adding the masthead float. You can find one made for Hobie cats. IMHO it is an unstable boat, due to its round chines and top-heavy design. Without masthead flotation it will turn turtle if it goes over and is not righted immediately. Do not leave it on a mooring in a storm (done that, got the medal).
Also, I would fill those cracks before taking it sailing, as it’s not good to waterlog the inside of hull.
On the plus side, it’s a really lively boat to sail, and lots of fun. Enjoy!

SKOTBRO · Apr 20, 2023

Thanks for sharing guys, much appreciated.

Crazy Dave Condon · Apr 29, 2023

You were given excellent advice @SKOTBRO by @stickinthemud57 and @Captain Larry-DH Thank you guys

SKOTBRO · May 22, 2023

stickinthemud57 said:
No, to the contrary. The 170 has a broad beam for a boat of its length and is very stable when compared to "performance" boats of the same length. I would definitely NOT characterize it as an unstable hull.

That said, it is a small boat with a centerboard. This makes it susceptible to capsizing and even turning turtle, one of which can be mildly amusing and the other a real PITA.

I used a 3.5 Mercury 4-cycle on mine and it seemed like a good fit. H170 owner's manual says 3 HP max. The motor sits so close to the rotational axis of the boat that it's weight is relatively inconsequential. Performance to windward differed a tiny bit (I think) due to the weight of the motor.

If you are worried about capsizing (which happens even when you are an experienced sailor. Ask me how I know.), I would recommend getting a float that attaches to the top of your mast to prevent turning turtle. Yes you may loose whatever is not properly secured, but you will, at least, not have to deal with getting the tip of your mast out of the mud. Again. Ask me how I know.

Small boats are tippy. The H170 less so than others, IMO.

PS - Once you gain some confidence, pick a day when winds are forecast to be favorable in velocity and direction and sail without the motor. This is real sailing, IMO, and how I learned to sail on boats ranging from 14 to 26 feet (Dad didn't go in for motors on a sailboat...).

Thank you for the great advice. The mast came with the float already on so I'm good there. I need the motor because of the launches I have in my area. Most of them are narrow with trees and mangroves around. Not optimal for my skill set. LOL.

dlochner · May 22, 2023

To repair the cracks, you might try West System G-Flex thickened epoxy or one of the other G-Flex epoxies.

G/flex 655 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

WEST SYSTEM's G/flex 655 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive bonds with Plastics, Metals, Glass, Masonry, and Fiberglass.

www.westsystem.com

stickinthemud57 · May 22, 2023

Yes, try that and plexus and let us know which is better!

SKOTBRO · May 30, 2023

I was able to do some sanding the last couple of weeks, turned out great so far. I was able to remove the thick layer of random epoxy/plexus or whatever it was. The pictures are after 320 wet and dry sand. will take it up to 4000 and then a dry wool pad on a speed wheel. I did the same on the transom for a smooth polished finish with no painting.

Does anyone know where I can get an Identical match for a new HIN Tag?

stickinthemud57 · May 30, 2023

Looking much better, good work.

Definitely put in the extra work necessary to get the hull just as smooth as possible.

I don't think you will have much luck replacing the HIN tag.

New 170 sailor

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