Help me out guys. I've done just enough reading in the archives to get me into trouble. I have a 1996 catalina 28 MkII that needs a new jib. I presently have a 150, and conditions allow me to sail with it unfurled perfectly a little more than half the time. Should I get another 150 or should I be considering a smaller jib and an asymmetrical. The asymmetrical spinnaker is definitely on my list of future purchases. Is it reasonable to think assymetrical for light wind and say a 135 for my next step up. How high could I point with the assymetrical? Thanks.
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D
David Foster
Genny is for racing upwind in light air
An asymetric spinnaker will outperform it on all points of reaching in light air. (Ours sails well 60 degrees off the true wind under 7 knots of wind. There is a big advantage on a beam or broad reach. Once the wind is over 10-12 knots, a 110 (which is easily furled to a 90 for winds over 20 knots) andour main will drive our '77 h27 near hull speed. And for cruising, it's important that it's easy to deploy either sail - the asymetric in its sock, or the 110 on its furler with the other sail pulling. So switching sails is easy on a changeable day. The only disadvantage of this rig is close-hauled in light air, where the big genny rules. You may do a lot of this racing around the cans in light air. But if we are on a cruising leg into the wind in light air, the iron genny is the choice anyway. I'd note that some of the new racing designs feature a blade jib, and a sprit for the asymetric, to. David Lady Lillie
An asymetric spinnaker will outperform it on all points of reaching in light air. (Ours sails well 60 degrees off the true wind under 7 knots of wind. There is a big advantage on a beam or broad reach. Once the wind is over 10-12 knots, a 110 (which is easily furled to a 90 for winds over 20 knots) andour main will drive our '77 h27 near hull speed. And for cruising, it's important that it's easy to deploy either sail - the asymetric in its sock, or the 110 on its furler with the other sail pulling. So switching sails is easy on a changeable day. The only disadvantage of this rig is close-hauled in light air, where the big genny rules. You may do a lot of this racing around the cans in light air. But if we are on a cruising leg into the wind in light air, the iron genny is the choice anyway. I'd note that some of the new racing designs feature a blade jib, and a sprit for the asymetric, to. David Lady Lillie
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ted
Get all three. 110, 150 and chute
If you want speed down wind then you need a chute. The chute is not a windward sail. Since your sailing is right at 50-50 between light and heavy air I would suggest getting both a 150 and a 110. I have a 150 and a 110, but here in Florida I am always over powered with the 150. I just bought a 133%. Its perfect. But when it really blows I put up the old 110.
If you want speed down wind then you need a chute. The chute is not a windward sail. Since your sailing is right at 50-50 between light and heavy air I would suggest getting both a 150 and a 110. I have a 150 and a 110, but here in Florida I am always over powered with the 150. I just bought a 133%. Its perfect. But when it really blows I put up the old 110.
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ken matejka
many factors
Having just purchased a new headsail I just finished making this decision about 2 months ago. The first thing you must consider is how strong is the wind in your area. If the average is 14 or below I would definately get a 155--the most sail you can have without being penalized. Having said that, a few qualifiers---1)First and foremost you need a sail with minimal stretch since more sail cloth(155 -vs-110) equals more stretch and the more the sail stretches, the faster it will lose its forward driving shape and develop more heeling shape(it will get "blown out"). I went with a carbon fiber tape drive from UK sails which was about 900 bucks more than a normal dacron RF sail, for this reason. Also, carbon fiber tapes lend themselves very well to the RF application since the main enemy of carbon tapes is folding(carbon is impervious to UV) and you will never be folding the sail, only rolling. The carbon tapes will never stretch, thus, the sail will hold its shape to the end. Also, I put a light weight tafetta on the side opposite the carbon tapes to aid in durability which adds only minimal weight to the sail and I do not have many light air days anyway. 2)Secondly, I had the sailmaker cut the sail aboout 10% flatter than usual to reduce the amount of heeling in heavier wind conditions, thus extending my wind range before having to reef the sail. Remember that a reefed headsail(despite the foam luff) is far less efficient than a non-reefed sail of equal size. The foam luff helps retain some flatness, but the foil shape that the sailmaker cuts into the sail is rolled up when the sail is reefed only 20%. Having the sail cut a little flatter will decrease the power of the sail in lighter air, but by decreasing tension on the backstay I can add some draft. I went with a 145 on my 28.5 since wind here averages 15-20 and also because I have a full batten main with tapered battens and didn't want to crowd the slot. I was completely amazed by the difference the new sail has made in my boats performance. The boat heels less now with the flat 145 than it did with the old dacron 110(blown out)--far less. I have reefed the headsail 4 times- twice to a 130 and once to a 110. The foam luff maintains the sails flatness very well. But the efficiency is obviously decreased as the leading edge(the furled sail)gets larger--especially when furled to 110. No genoa can compare with the power that an assymetrical spinnaker can produce on reaches and runs. I can hold my chute up to about 60 degrees apparent in lighter wind conditions. Any more wind and she is overpowered. Can hold the chute in mod wind on both beam and broad reaches. An invaluable and very fun sail. I would recommend buying this first. I would also recommend getting a snuffer sock for the chute as well as the ATN tacker so you can raise and lower the tack of the chute--on the deck for close reaching and raise it for broad reaches. You can live with your old genny for now as it probably only performs poorly while pointing and buy the new RF genoa at a later date.
Having just purchased a new headsail I just finished making this decision about 2 months ago. The first thing you must consider is how strong is the wind in your area. If the average is 14 or below I would definately get a 155--the most sail you can have without being penalized. Having said that, a few qualifiers---1)First and foremost you need a sail with minimal stretch since more sail cloth(155 -vs-110) equals more stretch and the more the sail stretches, the faster it will lose its forward driving shape and develop more heeling shape(it will get "blown out"). I went with a carbon fiber tape drive from UK sails which was about 900 bucks more than a normal dacron RF sail, for this reason. Also, carbon fiber tapes lend themselves very well to the RF application since the main enemy of carbon tapes is folding(carbon is impervious to UV) and you will never be folding the sail, only rolling. The carbon tapes will never stretch, thus, the sail will hold its shape to the end. Also, I put a light weight tafetta on the side opposite the carbon tapes to aid in durability which adds only minimal weight to the sail and I do not have many light air days anyway. 2)Secondly, I had the sailmaker cut the sail aboout 10% flatter than usual to reduce the amount of heeling in heavier wind conditions, thus extending my wind range before having to reef the sail. Remember that a reefed headsail(despite the foam luff) is far less efficient than a non-reefed sail of equal size. The foam luff helps retain some flatness, but the foil shape that the sailmaker cuts into the sail is rolled up when the sail is reefed only 20%. Having the sail cut a little flatter will decrease the power of the sail in lighter air, but by decreasing tension on the backstay I can add some draft. I went with a 145 on my 28.5 since wind here averages 15-20 and also because I have a full batten main with tapered battens and didn't want to crowd the slot. I was completely amazed by the difference the new sail has made in my boats performance. The boat heels less now with the flat 145 than it did with the old dacron 110(blown out)--far less. I have reefed the headsail 4 times- twice to a 130 and once to a 110. The foam luff maintains the sails flatness very well. But the efficiency is obviously decreased as the leading edge(the furled sail)gets larger--especially when furled to 110. No genoa can compare with the power that an assymetrical spinnaker can produce on reaches and runs. I can hold my chute up to about 60 degrees apparent in lighter wind conditions. Any more wind and she is overpowered. Can hold the chute in mod wind on both beam and broad reaches. An invaluable and very fun sail. I would recommend buying this first. I would also recommend getting a snuffer sock for the chute as well as the ATN tacker so you can raise and lower the tack of the chute--on the deck for close reaching and raise it for broad reaches. You can live with your old genny for now as it probably only performs poorly while pointing and buy the new RF genoa at a later date.
B
Bob Hawkins
Thanks
Thanks for your responses. I learned something from each one. Ken I like your idea about getting an asymmetrical now. It would be a lot more fun. When I get the Genny I will take your advice about the carbon strip. Thanks
Thanks for your responses. I learned something from each one. Ken I like your idea about getting an asymmetrical now. It would be a lot more fun. When I get the Genny I will take your advice about the carbon strip. Thanks
B
Bill Colombo at Doyle Sails
Sail Inventory Selection etc.
Bob, You definitely need to consider the sailing conditions that are most prevalent where you expect to be sailing most of the time. Having said that the primary decision is based on whether you want racing sails or not. Racing boats are generally sailed by full crews and have the ability to carry more sail upwind since they can put that weight on the rail. Also they have plenty of hands to work the sails. Day sailors and cruisers usually sail with a limited number of people and therefore smaller sails are more appropriate. For most areas the optimal size headsail is 135% This is large enough to power the boat in most light to medium conditions. For heavier air you would want to shorten sail area by either reefing the 135 with a furler and a luff pad or use a smaller headsil(100%) on a boat with no furler. For downwind sailing it is hard to beat an Asymmetrical cruising spinnaker. In lighter air you can sail up to 60 degrees apparent with these sails. Bill Colombo, Doyle SF
Bob, You definitely need to consider the sailing conditions that are most prevalent where you expect to be sailing most of the time. Having said that the primary decision is based on whether you want racing sails or not. Racing boats are generally sailed by full crews and have the ability to carry more sail upwind since they can put that weight on the rail. Also they have plenty of hands to work the sails. Day sailors and cruisers usually sail with a limited number of people and therefore smaller sails are more appropriate. For most areas the optimal size headsail is 135% This is large enough to power the boat in most light to medium conditions. For heavier air you would want to shorten sail area by either reefing the 135 with a furler and a luff pad or use a smaller headsil(100%) on a boat with no furler. For downwind sailing it is hard to beat an Asymmetrical cruising spinnaker. In lighter air you can sail up to 60 degrees apparent with these sails. Bill Colombo, Doyle SF
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