Needed: Repair instructions - Adler/Barbour Refrig

[Bill Hoelscher]

My wife and I have a classic 1980s Catalina '38, the Negotiator III, which has made two round trips to Hawaii and back, and we love her, except: the 1980s Adler/Barbour compressor driven refrigerator has only operated sporatically during the past several years, despite the fact that we had a new compressor and electronic control installed, and the problem is always the same: "Low on refrigerant gas - must be a leap somewhere." Thus, if I have to go to our Community College and learn "refrigeration," I am going to find out how to check the aluminum tubling and fittings for leaks and how to refill the refrigerate gas, which is readily available at our local auto parts stores, complete with the refilling hose, etc. Does anybody have Adler/Barbour refrigerator repair manual or instructions? Best regards, Bill & Marcia Hoelscher, 13425 SW 72nd Avenue, Tigard, Oregon 97223-8030.

 

[Gary]

built prior to '94

Bill, all Adler Barbour's built prior to 1994 use R12 refrigerant. You can not use the 134A kits automotive stores sell. A popular replacement for R12 is 409A, which is a HCFC. You need to pass a EPA approved course and test in order to purchase it(same with R12).You don't have to be certified to purchase 134A, but it is not compatable with your compressor.I can provide charging instructions when you're ready.

 

[Richard Kollmann]

Finding leaks

FINDING A LEAK A small leak in a 12-volt refrigeration system using a Danfoss or similar size compressor can be hard to locate. If all the refrigerant leaks out in one to two days the leak is easy to detect with soap and water or an electronic leak detector. Leaks that take several weeks to leak out 2 to 5 ounces of refrigerant are extremely difficult to find. Any place the protecting paint is missing from the aluminum evaporator or round blisters on the tube should be a suspected leak area. Forget about repairing these pin-holes, tomorrow there will be five more. If the system has a holding plate, check the connection at the plate.Florescent dye can be injected into the system with new refrigerant and the next time its low on refrigerant a black light can be used to locate the leak.To find a leak the system must be pressurized to at least refrigerant bottle pressure 60 to 80 psi. Test for leaks with the system off.These units normally leak in the following areas: Service fittings, Quick-disconnects and from small pin holes in the aluminum tubing and evaporator. When I find out the unit was serviced several times I first suspect the service fitting cap seal. It does take time and the right procedure to find the leak. Using Dawn dish washing soap mixed with 1/2 water and a one in. paint brush stab the soap into the area until you get a lot of foam then watch for a minute or two. When all else fails remove the complete unit and reassemble and pressurize with refrigerant outside the boat. Avoid bending the tubing any more than necessary, copper tubing work-hardens with each bend, also be careful not to bend the joint between the copper and aluminum tube. Lower the evaporator and the white painted tubing into a tank of fresh water, I use a swimming pool. Watch for bubbles. Nine times out of ten on older units its the evaporator or its tubing that is leaking and it can not be repaired, replace it.Last resort: If no leak is found remove the electrical module and fan from the condensing unit, if it is a super cold machine remove the relay and the wiring. Now lower the complete condensing unit into the water and you will find the leak. From the author of books on boat refrigeration.

 

[Debra B]

1980's A/B???

Have you considered that this unit may be past the end of its usefull life? 20 years of service on a boat is amazing - maybe it is time for a new unit....

 

[Monty]

Adler Barber

Go to http://waecousa.com This is the Adler Barber web site and is very useful.