Need Trailer

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Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
I am looking to buy a trailer for an O'Day 23.
Please advise
wbl3562@gmail.com
The hulls on these boats are hard and strong and they will take a complete roller trailer if one plans on trailer sailing. If not, I would buy a flat bunk tandem trailer that will take the weight of the boat plus it's contents. Also, the trailer should be built for a longer boat to insure that it will be long enough to float your 23 on and off at the ramp without swamping the tow vehicle. If the trailer isn't long enough to float the boat off, you need to buy a tongue extension bracket. My friend has a 10' tongue extension which he needs to use in launching his Seaward 22. Fortunately, because my trailer is longer than his, I'm able to back down a ramp and float my boat off without such a tongue extension. The keel on his boat draws a little more water than my keel. Consequently, with a deeper keel, and the shorter trailer, he needs the extension bracket.
My O'Day 222 is 21' 9" and my trailer is a tandem aluminum Long Mfg at 4600 LBS that was built for a 23' boat.

My trailer was built for a powerboat. I opted for 24" extension brackets to hold my bunks instead of the short 12" extension brackets that came with the trailer.
Unfortunately, Long Mfg went out of business a few years ago. It's kind of a shame because the extension brackets that they used on their trailers were the best I've ever seen on any trailer made today.
I didn't use the keel board that came with the trailer because it was too thick. Instead, I used two pressure treated 2"x10"s and sandwiched them together. I didn't want to drill any holes in the galvanized cross members to secure these planks, so I picked up two lightening arrester brackets at my local power company and used the back straps and the two 3/8" carriage bolts to hold the planks to the cross members. I countersunk the wood so that the keel wouldn't hit the bolt heads. I favor this arrangement because I can loosen the bolts and slide the boards to one side which comes in handy when I take my boat off my trailer and load it on boat stands for the season.
If you want to spend the extra money, you could go to a trailer company and have them set the trailer up for your boat.
What I would do is; check out some new trailers at large reputable boat trailer dealers in your area and tell the guy what you have for a boat. He will probably have the specs for your boat in his PC and he can give you a good idea of the size and GWRA that will be needed to handle your boat. Even if you don't buy the trailer off them, you'll have the info needed to check out other trailers you may be interested in, even a good used trailer from a private party. Here's some pics of my trailer so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about.
 

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Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
wbl3562

The hulls on these boats are hard and strong and they will take a complete roller trailer if one plans on trailer sailing. If not, I would buy a flat bunk tandem trailer that will take the weight of the boat plus it's contents. Also, the trailer should be built for a longer boat to insure that it will be long enough to float your 23 on and off at the ramp without swamping the tow vehicle. If the trailer isn't long enough to float the boat off, you need to buy a tongue extension bracket. My friend has a 10' tongue extension which he needs to use in launching his Seaward 22. Fortunately, because my trailer is longer than his, I'm able to back down a ramp and float my boat off without such a tongue extension. The keel on his boat draws a little more water than my keel. Consequently, with a deeper keel, and the shorter trailer, he needs the extension bracket.
My O'Day 222 is 21' 9" and my trailer is a tandem aluminum Long Mfg at 4600 LBS that was built for a 23' boat.

My trailer was built for a powerboat. I opted for 24" extension brackets to hold my bunks instead of the short 12" extension brackets that came with the trailer.
Unfortunately, Long Mfg went out of business a few years ago. It's kind of a shame because the extension brackets that they used on their trailers were the best I've ever seen on any trailer made today.
I didn't use the keel board that came with the trailer because it was too thick. Instead, I used two pressure treated 2"x10"s and sandwiched them together. I didn't want to drill any holes in the galvanized cross members to secure these planks, so I picked up two lightening arrester brackets at my local power company and used the back straps and the two 3/8" carriage bolts to hold the planks to the cross members. I countersunk the wood so that the keel wouldn't hit the bolt heads. I favor this arrangement because I can loosen the bolts and slide the boards to one side which comes in handy when I take my boat off my trailer and load it on boat stands for the season.
If you want to spend the extra money, you could go to a trailer company and have them set the trailer up for your boat.
What I would do is; check out some new trailers at large reputable boat trailer dealers in your area and tell the guy what you have for a boat. He will probably have the specs for your boat in his PC and he can give you a good idea of the size and GWRA that will be needed to handle your boat. Even if you don't buy the trailer off them, you'll have the info needed to check out other trailers you may be interested in, even a good used trailer from a private party. Here's some pics of my trailer so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about.
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Keep in mind that a safe trailer will cost more than boat. I you buy junk both boat and trailer will be in junk yard.

Ed K
 

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