Need to repair a stripped deck organizer anchor

Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
The deck organizer screws are threaded anchors, not through bolts... I'm trying to clean up the cluster of lines at the base of my mast. I was planning on double stacking the organizers on the starboard side to match what was done by the factory on the port side. I found the matching part, found the proper length screws to secure them (...thanks, for the replies on that thread!), and was working on the installation today, when... $#!+!

The factory installation uses threaded anchors embedded in the deck, not through bolts. The inboard anchor on the starboard side is stripped and will not tighten down. I'd appreciate advice and recommendations WRT the best approach to repairing it. Looking for recommendations for specific adhesives and methods to repair it (must it be filled, drilled, tapped?). Can it just be epoxied in place? There are a total of four screws, three of which seem to be anchored just fine, across a span of about 10 inches, only one of them needs to be repaired.

Thanks!
Oragainizer - 1.jpeg
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
7,999
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
You can try tapping with a slightly oversize thread as long as the larger bolt fits the organizer. Or, if that's not working, you could just drill the rest of the way through the backing plate and cabin top's interior liner to install a washer and a cap nut on the under side. My experience with cap nuts includes a little bit of frustration in finding the exact bolt length. Cutting the bolt to length is a solution that may require cleaning the newly exposed thread.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,323
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Enlarge the hole slightly and remove some core. Heavily wax the bolt. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy, cut up glass fibers work well in this application. Insert the waxed bolt. Let the epoxy fully cure and then remove the bolt. There will be a properly threaded hole.

Check the West System Website for their instructions.
 

RitSim

.
Jan 29, 2018
406
Beneteau 411 Branford
You can Helicoil the original thread. This is a spring thread that gets tapped into the base metal. The inside of the spring form is shaped to match the original bolt thread. Look up the thread helicoil on Mcmaster.com. I looked at 5/16-18 thread. About half way down is a complete kit (drill, tap, heliciols and installation tool ) for $62. The helicoil is stronger than the original thread so no worries that you are degrading the install. Youtube has some videos also. If you go this route, drill straight and true - do not drill at an angle or wobble the drill. Tap perfectly straight.
 
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
You can Helicoil the original thread. This is a spring thread that gets tapped into the base metal. The inside of the spring form is shaped to match the original bolt thread. Look up the thread helicoil on Mcmaster.com. I looked at 5/16-18 thread. About half way down is a complete kit (drill, tap, heliciols and installation tool ) for $62. The helicoil is stronger than the original thread so no worries that you are degrading the install. Youtube has some videos also. If you go this route, drill straight and true - do not drill at an angle or wobble the drill. Tap perfectly straight.
I'll check this out. I've used helicoils a couple of times in other applications. I'll look to see what I have, and what's available. Although, if it's an anchor embedded in solid fiberglass, then I think the stripped hole might already be larger than the helicoil.
 
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
Enlarge the hole slightly and remove some core. Heavily wax the bolt. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy, cut up glass fibers work well in this application. Insert the waxed bolt. Let the epoxy fully cure and then remove the bolt. There will be a properly threaded hole.

Check the West System Website for their instructions.
This sounds a bit like just epoxying the current anchor back in place. It's not the inside threads for the screw that's stripped, it's the anchor threads (or grips) into the fiberglass that have stripped on the outside. The anchor itself seems to rotate. This happened too late in the day, yesterday, to take everything apart again. If I am able to go this route, this is where I'm looking for recommendations for which adhesive to use. Should I use West System thickened epoxy, a little 3M 5200, something else? I recently saw a technical article on using JB Weld to repair the underside covers now used on a lot of cars. I always thought of JB Weld as a bit of a crude, temporary adhesive...

Additional insights would be appreciated!
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
If I understand your challenge you have an anchor (like a Removable Screw-Drive Anchor)
1596472050316.png

Something like this. The anchor is in there and it will still work, but the anchor part is not secure in the fiberglass.


If so, then I would think you could squirt some thickened epoxy down in the space around the anchor and fix it in place. This might not be a complete fix. Is the anchor removable?

If so perhaps
  1. pulling it out,
  2. enlarging the hole enough,
  3. clean out any rotten filler or broken fiberglass,
  4. fill the space with thickened epoxy for the anchor to have secure adhesion to the fiberglass deck,
  5. Wax the bolt and the screw threads of the anchor.
  6. Stuff the works back into the hole with the epoxy.
  7. Let harden.
  8. Pray you use the correct amount of wax on the threads but not on the anchor body.
  9. clean up the deck and apply a gel coat top to your work area,
  10. let dry
  11. remove the bolt and install the organizer, using a good bedding compound.
Drink a beer :beer: and take pictures of your repair for the forum watchers.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,323
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Just say NO! to 5200!!!

The method I proposed with thickened epoxy and a bolt puts threads into the epoxy. Because the bolt is waxed, the bolt comes out when unscrewed and can be screwed back in. It is best to use a new screw or thoroughly clean the wax off the screw to get a better grip.

See Page 32 of the West System manual.

 
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
Well, this day didn't go at all like I'd hoped it would. I got the organizer off easily enough, but that's about all the progress that I was able to make. A replacement part is pictured (below) from the parts web site, so I know what it looks like. Unfortunately, it's not a dual threaded insert, it seems to be a compression type. Initially, I thought that it had never been compressed, but after seeing it in different light, it looks like the threads have broken off below the compression, and are lying at the bottom (I'm still not certain). Beyond that, I know nothing about the construction of the area where the organizer is located. If the part is a compression insert, that implies that it should grip a relatively thin layer of glass at the top of the deck. If that's the case, there is a chance that the area beneath it is just air. There could be core material, but I don't know how to determine that. Beyond that, I'm not sure how to hold the part in place, to drill it out? There is virtually no shoulder available to grip, and the countersunk head just rotates in the hole... maybe drill a couple of tiny screw holes in the shoulder of the insert, and try to hold it in place and drill between the screws? And, even if I'm successful in drilling it, the expanded lower half and threads will still be trapped below the top layer of fiberglass.
I'm starting to think that I might need "professional help".
Anyway, here's what I have;
  • Deck bump where organizer is located. Screw in stripped thread insert.
  • Part photo from parts web site
Oragainizer screw - 1.jpegThread insert.png
 
Last edited:
Apr 8, 2010
1,942
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
My condolances.
Sounds like the OEM cost-cutting measures for hardware installs have left you with a problem. Best advice from another poster is, unfortunately, to redo it properly with some new inside access. You need to over drill, epoxy fill, and redrill. Loads on those bolts are mostly in shear, so the inside can be backed up with a 'fender washer' under each bolt.
Finally, you will need to cover/trim over the newly-created inside access point(s).
My previous boat had an frp inside liner for the overhead, and I cut some round holes for inserting the washers and nuts - new halyard organizers. Then I covered those access holes with stock press-in covers painted to match.
Present boat has a vinyl headliner, with some zippers and some sections needing staple removal for similar access.
The problem is fixable, and shortcuts usually only lead to more problems later, unfortunately.

Coincidently, I am presently replacing both banks of halyard organizers. Same sort of work but with better inside access.
Oh My, the "pleasures" of being a DIY yacht owner!
:)
 
Last edited:
Jun 25, 2004
1,108
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
If the part is a compression insert, that implies that it should grip a relatively thin layer of glass at the top of the deck. If that's the case, there is a chance that the area beneath it is just air. There could be core material, but I don't know how to determine that.
I can think of two ways to determine how the raised base is constructed before you proceed.

1)drill a small hole in the raised base and examine the shavings. I would be very surprised to find it’s hollow; it would be very difficult to lay up the laminate. I wouldnt be surprised to find a piece of solid laminate or wooden core (or perhaps aluminum plate)

2) call Beneteau and ask.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Personally, I wouldn’t be afraid to drill a lot of tiny holes and then chisel it out. Or cut it out with a dremel fitting w or oscillating multi tool, etc. Or cut into the top of it with a dremel wheel and muscle it out.

Then embed a replacement part.. The cosmetic result should be excellent because the surface won’t show after the deck organizer is replaced.
~~~~~~~~~

. I don’t recommend threading bolts into cast epoxy because the epoxy is very brittle and easily stripped if you cross thread or over tighten the fastener. Instead, I use this kind of threaded insert for this kind of repair


1596640109159.png


~~~~~~~~~

It’s essential to ensure that the threaded insert lines up perfectly with the deck hardware. to get the Insert to line up perfectly, you can epoxy it In place while its affixed to the deck organizer. This method of ensuring perfect alignment was recommended to me by the West Systems tech advisor about 20 years ago. I call it “casting in place”, but there may be another name for it.

see
 
Last edited:
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
Successful?
:laugh:
Too busy getting over my screw-it-up-ophobia. I love DIY stuff, but I don't want the end result to LOOK like a first time DIY project. I'm liking what @DrJudyB had to say, and still letting all the rest of the advise above filter through. I'll update the thread, for sure, if I decide to attempt this. Right now waiting to see if Beneteau will get back to me with info on how the original construction and installation was done. Also, asking friends for local references, to maybe combine this with another cosmetic repair that I'd rather not attempt, and an installation that may well be impossible for me to access. Do you know any 80 pound contortionists (can't be claustrophobic) who will work cheap by the hour?
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I understand. I have a fear of drilling a hole in my boat. After I analyze the issue from every angle I can create usually delaying the inevitable event. That’s when my friend Les shows up. We go over the options and then he puts the drill in my hand and says “ DRILL IT”!

Fortunately, it has worked.
 
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
@jssailem, my wife has now taken on the role of your friend Les, after listening to all of my list of concerns and potential complications, she'll grin at me and say. "DRILL IT!". Thanks, I think.

First, I had to wait for parts and supplies from several different places. One order seemed to be stuck in "increased volume" purgatory (the original order has STILL not arrived), so I ordered a duplicate tube of West Six10 from Amazon. Once everything arrived, we had a bit of late summer fall weather, so I waited a couple of days for the rain to move through before starting work on this.

Here are a bunch of photos of the work as it progressed;
  • I started with this, my traveller line is run forward to the deck organizer, then back to the cockpit. I don't know how it ended up this way, but I have no grommets or slits in the dodger for the lines to run, no turning blocks to route them there, and it's always been set up this way. The "easy" solution for me to get room to run a longer outhaul line and/or another line or two to the starboard side of the cockpit was to find another Spinlock organizer and double stack them to match what had been done on the port side. It worked perfectly... as I moved from outboard to inboard gradually tightening each screw, all the way up to the point where I tried to take up the last couple of mm on the farthest inboard socket screw... and it just kept turning.
  • The organizer removed, what I have are four anchors embedded in the deck. I knew that they were anchors almost a year ago when I saw them on the parts explosion as I was searching for the second layer organizer.
  • The broken anchor removed. I don't know what happened to it. At the point that I could see it inside the hole, it appeared to have been broken on one of the four "legs" that grip the deck when it is compressed, and it was not properly aligned so that the screw could engage with the threads.
  • It wasn't the cleanest removal ever. I broke four 1/8 inch and smaller drill bits, bent up a pair of needle nose pliers, and chipped the gelcoat, but eventually the surgery was successful. I was never very good as a kid, at Operation, either.
  • Here's what's going in. Two levels of Spinlock deck organizer with four 80mm M8 stainless flat head socket screws, the one on the left with a 316 stainless M8 thread insert. The thread insert came with red thread locker applied, which I removed prior to setting it in place with West Six10 epoxy.
To be continued... because I have too many photos to include in a single post.
Oranizer - 1.jpegOranizer - 2.jpegOranizer - 3.jpegOranizer - 4.jpegOranizer - 5.jpeg
 
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
Continued;
  • I cleaned out the cavity and checked to make sure that it was the same depth as the other three. I even dry fit the whole assembly in place, snugged up the three right side screws and made sure that the left most screw had room to fit into the countersunk opening in the deck organizer. I masked the hole of with blue tape and filled the hole part way with epoxy. It was a decent sized hole, so I was able to fit a finger into the opening and pack the epoxy into the open areas. I snugged everything up, and then pulled it back off to see if the thread insert was fully covered with epoxy… it was NOT. I added a little more to the cavity, and used the stir stick to apply some more to the thread insert before I put it all back together again, and snugged up the three intact screws.
  • Everything held in place, waiting for paint to dry, or something like that.
  • 24 hours later; The good news is that I had applied a coating of mold release to the threads of the screw that was embedded in epoxy, and it released “fairly easily”. The bad news, is that my epoxy overflowed the cavity and the blue tape.
  • It didn’t turn out to be a total catastrophe, most of the overflow peeled off with the blue tape.
  • After cleaning off the remaining overflow, I’m ready to begin my reassembly. I could still dremel out a little epoxy and try my first gelcoat repair. I might do that, I have a visible repair that I do need to make, and I might as well practice on one that is not visible. But, at this point, I want to get back out on the water again for a while, ASAP.
  • Thank you, @Maine Sail, for the Bed It bedding tape, and for the how-to write up that was one of the first DIY posts that I ever read when I joined this forum a long time ago.
  • What it was supposed to look like almost three weeks ago. Well, technically, it DID look like this, it (or I) just had a screw loose.
  • Finally! All back together, awaiting my remaining gear purchase to arrive, with my longer line to run the outhaul back to the cockpit. And, maybe a couple of other inspirations or brainstorms to help make our sailing experience just a little bit more efficient.
And, thank you @DrJudyB, and @dlochner, and everyone else, for helping me understand what I had to work with, and pointing me toward the proper resources and documentation! And, thanks @jssailem, for the suggestion to follow up with photos, once my project was "successful".

Oranizer - 6.jpegOranizer - 7.jpegOranizer - 8.jpegOranizer - 9.jpegOranizer - 10.jpegOranizer - 11.jpegOranizer - 12.jpegOranizer - 13.jpeg
 
May 17, 2004
5,032
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
Very nice. Thanks for the write-up. I’ll remember this thread incase the anchors on our 37 ever have a similar problem.
 
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Likes: SoSound
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Very nice work @SoSound. Great write-up. You make it sound like a typical DIY boat project with a successful outcome.

How did the sailing with it go? It is always better that the project make your sailing easier or faster or more fun.

I’m sorry that you had to discover the project helper. But I think you probably knew she would provide such urging assistance since the time you met. Getting a boat with projects just gave her a new way to let her inner strength blossom.

Perhaps there is a need for a tee shirt.
“ Go on already, Just Drill-It! “
Maybe not.