How does the Hunter 26.5 mast un-step? Do I unscrew the plate at the base from the roof of the solon, or does the mast lift off a "foot" on the plate? As my username suggests, I'm more of a paddler, than a sailor. But, my wife and I have enjoyed trouble free sailing for three years now. Then this spring, the foresale blew loose at the top of the roller furling. Without the sail attached, the fitting up there would not come down. So, I sent the main hallard up with a 50' line and some spare hardware, hoping to snag it. I snagged it alright. Now everything is stuck up there. Everyone I've talked to agrees that the only way to free up the mess is to lower the mast. The nearest professional sailboat repair is 100 mile away, and they want $600 to "decomission" plus mileage. Thanks for any help you can offer. The Canoenut
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Hunter mounts in base plate
I don't own your model, but the two boats that I have owned, including the 33.5, all have the mast mounted in the base plate. The depth would be about an inch or so. Do you know how you are going to take the mast down? There are several ways to do this, but you will need help from an experienced helper.
I don't own your model, but the two boats that I have owned, including the 33.5, all have the mast mounted in the base plate. The depth would be about an inch or so. Do you know how you are going to take the mast down? There are several ways to do this, but you will need help from an experienced helper.
Base plate
It's been a while since I've dropped mine. I think on the 26.5 the mast slips over a foot on the plate that centers it it the proper position. For the cost your looking at, why not buy a bosins chair or a mast ladder, and send someone small up the mast for the repairs? These are always handy to have anyway. If you do either option, check your lights, and windex.
It's been a while since I've dropped mine. I think on the 26.5 the mast slips over a foot on the plate that centers it it the proper position. For the cost your looking at, why not buy a bosins chair or a mast ladder, and send someone small up the mast for the repairs? These are always handy to have anyway. If you do either option, check your lights, and windex.
Bosin's chair
That's the answer we needed. So, if the mast slips over a foot on the base plate, then I'll need several guys & gals to hold the stays to keep the mast upright, and one strong guy to lift it up and walk it back. I didn't want to unscrew the base plate, unnecessarily. Since I used the main hallard to try to snag the jib hallard, and got it stuck up there, I have no way of getting a bosin's chair up the mast. (We thought of a bosin's chair, asked around, but couldn't find one here.) Thanks. P.S. Does anyone know if the mast will swing down with the roller furling installed on the headstay? I would hate to kink the roller tube.
That's the answer we needed. So, if the mast slips over a foot on the base plate, then I'll need several guys & gals to hold the stays to keep the mast upright, and one strong guy to lift it up and walk it back. I didn't want to unscrew the base plate, unnecessarily. Since I used the main hallard to try to snag the jib hallard, and got it stuck up there, I have no way of getting a bosin's chair up the mast. (We thought of a bosin's chair, asked around, but couldn't find one here.) Thanks. P.S. Does anyone know if the mast will swing down with the roller furling installed on the headstay? I would hate to kink the roller tube.
Bucket lift
If your boat is in the water, a nearby marina or yacht club should have a gin pole/crane that could lift someone to the top while repairs are made. If you are on the hard, a tree trimming lift bucket may be rented to do the same.
If your boat is in the water, a nearby marina or yacht club should have a gin pole/crane that could lift someone to the top while repairs are made. If you are on the hard, a tree trimming lift bucket may be rented to do the same.
Please get professional help
From reading your posts, it is obvious that you have never seen a mast unstepped. If done incorrectly, it can be dangerous. You need a gin pole or crane to hold the mast upright while the standing rigging is disconnected. The backstay and the forestay also need to be disconnected. Now, the only thing hold the mast up is the gin pole. Believe me, you cannot use people to hold it up. The cable on the gin pole is then shortened by winding it on a drum. This lifts the mast out of the shoe. There should be a person stationed at the base of the mast, one holding the backstay, and one holding the bottom of your roller furling. The base of the mast is then walked towards the bow as the gin pole line is slowly lowered. The person on the roller furling must keep the extrusion as straight as possible using the spreaders to to keep it from sagging too much. The person on the backstay will keep tension to make sure the mast comes down on the boat. You keep lowering the mast until it rests on the bowsprit forward and the stern rail aft. Oh yes, don't forget to disconnect the wiring when the mast is lifted just off the shoe. Most wiring uses connectors that must be disconnected. After all that is said... please find somebody that has done it before. This can be life threatening if the mast were to fall on somebody. *yks
From reading your posts, it is obvious that you have never seen a mast unstepped. If done incorrectly, it can be dangerous. You need a gin pole or crane to hold the mast upright while the standing rigging is disconnected. The backstay and the forestay also need to be disconnected. Now, the only thing hold the mast up is the gin pole. Believe me, you cannot use people to hold it up. The cable on the gin pole is then shortened by winding it on a drum. This lifts the mast out of the shoe. There should be a person stationed at the base of the mast, one holding the backstay, and one holding the bottom of your roller furling. The base of the mast is then walked towards the bow as the gin pole line is slowly lowered. The person on the roller furling must keep the extrusion as straight as possible using the spreaders to to keep it from sagging too much. The person on the backstay will keep tension to make sure the mast comes down on the boat. You keep lowering the mast until it rests on the bowsprit forward and the stern rail aft. Oh yes, don't forget to disconnect the wiring when the mast is lifted just off the shoe. Most wiring uses connectors that must be disconnected. After all that is said... please find somebody that has done it before. This can be life threatening if the mast were to fall on somebody. *yks
Mast
Canoenut: DO NOT try to drop this without a crane or mast hoist. Even with a hoist, this is a multi-person job. I don't think there is a safe way to do this without the correct equipment.
Canoenut: DO NOT try to drop this without a crane or mast hoist. Even with a hoist, this is a multi-person job. I don't think there is a safe way to do this without the correct equipment.
mast step
Is there a bridge nearby not used so much for car traffic that you could motor up to and reach the problem from the top of the bridge?
Is there a bridge nearby not used so much for car traffic that you could motor up to and reach the problem from the top of the bridge?
Good idea, but...
There is a bridge, and right now it is at just the right height as the lake is 14' above normal. Unfortunately, it is in the danger zone in front of the dam. And, there is a safety cable floating across the area which would snag the keel and rudder, were I bold enough to try to cross over it into the danger zone. The only other bridge is 25 miles from my cove. A long way to go for my 4hp outboard motor.
There is a bridge, and right now it is at just the right height as the lake is 14' above normal. Unfortunately, it is in the danger zone in front of the dam. And, there is a safety cable floating across the area which would snag the keel and rudder, were I bold enough to try to cross over it into the danger zone. The only other bridge is 25 miles from my cove. A long way to go for my 4hp outboard motor.
un stepping your mast
The mast plate is not to be unscrewed. The mast fits into it and is held there by the stays. Un-stepping is no easy task. You need several people and a mast crane to do it right. Once down you might consider installing a stainless hinged mast step. This is what I did. Now, a gin pole and a winch and it is up or down without releasing the stays. One just loosens them and has another person watch them making sure they don't hook on something. Good luck.
The mast plate is not to be unscrewed. The mast fits into it and is held there by the stays. Un-stepping is no easy task. You need several people and a mast crane to do it right. Once down you might consider installing a stainless hinged mast step. This is what I did. Now, a gin pole and a winch and it is up or down without releasing the stays. One just loosens them and has another person watch them making sure they don't hook on something. Good luck.
unstepping the mast
I forgot to mention, the furler has to be disconnected. The other stays just loosened not disconnected.
I forgot to mention, the furler has to be disconnected. The other stays just loosened not disconnected.
mast step
Ed: I need to caulk under my mast step. I can't find any nuts & washers on the interior liner. Is the step plate held on with screws, into the compression post? I'd like to know, before I drop my mast... Thanks
Ed: I need to caulk under my mast step. I can't find any nuts & washers on the interior liner. Is the step plate held on with screws, into the compression post? I'd like to know, before I drop my mast... Thanks
Please get a lift
I just had my 27 hauled and we had the mast removed and replaced. You need a lift. Find a tree trimming crew (maybe the guy that runs your local power co.). Its that the mast is heavy, only maybe 50 lbs on my 27, but there is so much leverage there. When you lift it, you can slip a loop around the mast that will pull up to the spreaders. Take up the load on the lift, then remove all the turnbuckles. It will lift right up. Also the spreader connection is just about the balance point, so tilting and lowering is not too bad. Good time to replace the light bulb and wind vane. Phil in FL
I just had my 27 hauled and we had the mast removed and replaced. You need a lift. Find a tree trimming crew (maybe the guy that runs your local power co.). Its that the mast is heavy, only maybe 50 lbs on my 27, but there is so much leverage there. When you lift it, you can slip a loop around the mast that will pull up to the spreaders. Take up the load on the lift, then remove all the turnbuckles. It will lift right up. Also the spreader connection is just about the balance point, so tilting and lowering is not too bad. Good time to replace the light bulb and wind vane. Phil in FL
mast step anchor points
not sure if this went thru first time. The mast step is secured to the deck by the 5 screws you see as you look down at the step. Molded into the deck is an aluminum plate that is tapped for the screws. Sometimes they put sealer around the screws and you might have to work to free the step after the screws are removed. That's it. Where I have my boat, it is difficult to get a hoist so I had a hinged mast step made and an aluminum plug for the mast. I bolted the plug to the hinged plate, the plug fits tightly into the bottom of the mast and is secured with screws. The mast and plate fit onto the bottom plate with a large pin. The bottom plate was designed so that I retained the original tapped holes on the deck. It works great. I can hoist and lower with a winch or the mainsheet blocks. This is a grreat boat. I love it. Ed
not sure if this went thru first time. The mast step is secured to the deck by the 5 screws you see as you look down at the step. Molded into the deck is an aluminum plate that is tapped for the screws. Sometimes they put sealer around the screws and you might have to work to free the step after the screws are removed. That's it. Where I have my boat, it is difficult to get a hoist so I had a hinged mast step made and an aluminum plug for the mast. I bolted the plug to the hinged plate, the plug fits tightly into the bottom of the mast and is secured with screws. The mast and plate fit onto the bottom plate with a large pin. The bottom plate was designed so that I retained the original tapped holes on the deck. It works great. I can hoist and lower with a winch or the mainsheet blocks. This is a grreat boat. I love it. Ed
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