Steve, the trailer is not a goose neck, it is a ball hitch mount type, traditional hitch type, but I will get the pics of the whole thing and the extension to you as soon as I can ,, hopefully tonight...
Need some THINGS and HELP !!
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Steve,
Here are the pics like I said I would post.... hope this helps you out... but as I said it is not a goose neck, that would be an interesting looking device...
I can take more pics if you would like when I get back on Sunday...
Rod
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Well it has been a while since I last updated the progress of my working over of my Lancer, it still has no name, but the interior is near completion, just need to finish up the ceiling, clean it up inside and then work on the wiring, I am looking to relocate one of the batteries to the lazarette, Please let me know if this is a good or bad idea... Still need to re silicone the windows, they do not open, just view out the sides, and I would like to put more support into the toe rail mounting location and add to the chain plates and all other bolted down items, I did rework my winches they actually function now.... I am looking at the mast (which I recently mounted lights on and built my own wiring harness) and the boom, and I am trying to figure out my running rigging, I have found 2 sheets on the Genoa sail, and I have found a Vang, I am guessing the line it is connected to is also the main sheet??? So that just leaves the other 2 lines, I am guessing halyards for the genoa and main, and I believe they will tie off at the mast? correct?.... Well, Hope this brings about more discussion, after all it is a work in progress, and I am always looking for suggestions and ideas,,,,
Thanks and fair winds to everyone
Rod
I forgot one thing, how many cleats should be on the mast, I have 3,, any suggestions...what goes where?
Thanks and fair winds to everyone
Rod
I forgot one thing, how many cleats should be on the mast, I have 3,, any suggestions...what goes where?
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Halyards tie off at the mast, unless there are blocks on the deck and clutches on the cabin to to lead them to the cockpit. On my L25 the Main halyard exited the mast on the port side and tied off to the port cleat with the jib halyard to starboard. Be sure to lubricate the mast sheaves while the mast is down. If the halyards are worn and stiff, consider replacing them. As long as you have the cabin roof open I suggest you consider re-inforcing the areas around the coach windows somehow. The more flexible they are the more likely they will leak later. Leaking was a big deal on the old L25's. Be sure to check for perforation of the channels the main hatch slides in. Someone had significant water intrusion there too.
Regarding the battery in the lazarette. This might be a bad if the stern engine well hole is still open (mine was closed off), but is fine if closed. Be sure to put the battery in a true acid proof battery box in either case and be sure it is strapped down. The only fears are electrocution or pollution if a swell from the ocean or an errant power boater washes a wave against your stern flooding your lazarette.
If you are sailing in salt water, be sure to used tinned wire for all your electrical work and true marine connectors, which have adhesive in them. Be sure to check your breaker panel too...mine was a mess...and it had been updated...badly. Labels are a nice touch too.
Glad you are having fun.
Bob
Regarding the battery in the lazarette. This might be a bad if the stern engine well hole is still open (mine was closed off), but is fine if closed. Be sure to put the battery in a true acid proof battery box in either case and be sure it is strapped down. The only fears are electrocution or pollution if a swell from the ocean or an errant power boater washes a wave against your stern flooding your lazarette.
If you are sailing in salt water, be sure to used tinned wire for all your electrical work and true marine connectors, which have adhesive in them. Be sure to check your breaker panel too...mine was a mess...and it had been updated...badly. Labels are a nice touch too.
Glad you are having fun.
Bob
Thanks Bob,
I do not know yet as to which side my halyards run, as I have not had the mast up yet... here is my sailing ignorance, what is a "mast sheave" to lubricate? And what should I use to lubricate them with?
By the way, I have metal cable (wire rope) for halyards that I know I will be attaching lines to for hoisting etc. .....
The coach windows, are those the basic windows that I have on the boat? All I have is the 4 non-opening windows on the boat, and yes I have the entire interior ripped out, ceiling down the walls to the floor, only fiberglass remains, all vinyl and foam are gone!! ... How do you suggest reinforcing the window areas?
And yes this old Lancer 25 has had some serious leaking over the years.....
I have an enclosed Lazarette, and I have the box that you mentioned, currently I am only in fresh water, but I have been using a lot of liquid electrical tape!! And the fuse panel is on the list of updates..
Thanks again for the input
Rod
I do not know yet as to which side my halyards run, as I have not had the mast up yet... here is my sailing ignorance, what is a "mast sheave" to lubricate? And what should I use to lubricate them with?
By the way, I have metal cable (wire rope) for halyards that I know I will be attaching lines to for hoisting etc. .....
The coach windows, are those the basic windows that I have on the boat? All I have is the 4 non-opening windows on the boat, and yes I have the entire interior ripped out, ceiling down the walls to the floor, only fiberglass remains, all vinyl and foam are gone!! ... How do you suggest reinforcing the window areas?
And yes this old Lancer 25 has had some serious leaking over the years.....
I have an enclosed Lazarette, and I have the box that you mentioned, currently I am only in fresh water, but I have been using a lot of liquid electrical tape!! And the fuse panel is on the list of updates..
Thanks again for the input
Rod
My halyards are reversed from Bob's. Foresail halyard portside,main to starboard.
I re-cored and glassed all bad areas around portholes then hand poured/brushed small amounts of resin into all areas in an attempt to seal the entire rim prior to reinstallation of deadlights,if they are still usable.(Mine were badly damaged and brittle and were replaced with units (8) from a parted out H-25.)
I re-cored and glassed all bad areas around portholes then hand poured/brushed small amounts of resin into all areas in an attempt to seal the entire rim prior to reinstallation of deadlights,if they are still usable.(Mine were badly damaged and brittle and were replaced with units (8) from a parted out H-25.)
The sheaves are the pulleys at the top of the mast the halyards run through. It is just a more nautical term LOL. http://www.ballengerspars.com/mast_main.html is a pretty good run down of FAQ on rig maintenance. They recommend Lanocote or white lithium grease. Personally, I'd avoid using something like WD-40, which really isn't a very good lubricant.
It isn't really clear what you are doing on the instide of your cabin ceiling. What is going on? I see some strapping and some fiberglass mat? Did you replace any of the balsa core? Be sure to check the core around the fixed portlights and replace it, if necessary. From a re-inforcement perspective, that will go a long way in insuring that the cabin top doesn't flex and break the port seals. Be sure to use a flexible sealant for the ports rather than something like 5200.
It isn't really clear what you are doing on the instide of your cabin ceiling. What is going on? I see some strapping and some fiberglass mat? Did you replace any of the balsa core? Be sure to check the core around the fixed portlights and replace it, if necessary. From a re-inforcement perspective, that will go a long way in insuring that the cabin top doesn't flex and break the port seals. Be sure to use a flexible sealant for the ports rather than something like 5200.
Appreciate the info Bonzai......
Bob, Thank you for the definition and "nautical terms" and the grease recommendation.
As for the interior, I had to remove almost all the balsa core, so I have replaced the balsa, and am in the middle of reglassing with 3 layers of fiberglass, and then I am installing the ribs across to add additional strength, I plan on putting the ribs throughout and then glassing over them, as well as some supports near the windows (portlights?) per you and bonzai's recommendation. I am glad you said not to use 5200, as I was actually thinking that would hold the best, but since that area has a tend and need to flex, I can see why other sealants would be better. If you have any questions regarding my project, please feel free to ask, and if you advice or tips or anything to make this less painful, please feel free to add the input.
Thank you guys,
Rod
Bob, Thank you for the definition and "nautical terms" and the grease recommendation.
As for the interior, I had to remove almost all the balsa core, so I have replaced the balsa, and am in the middle of reglassing with 3 layers of fiberglass, and then I am installing the ribs across to add additional strength, I plan on putting the ribs throughout and then glassing over them, as well as some supports near the windows (portlights?) per you and bonzai's recommendation. I am glad you said not to use 5200, as I was actually thinking that would hold the best, but since that area has a tend and need to flex, I can see why other sealants would be better. If you have any questions regarding my project, please feel free to ask, and if you advice or tips or anything to make this less painful, please feel free to add the input.
Thank you guys,
Rod
When you remount your deck hardware be sure to protect the core from future water intrusion. The usual thing is to drill them oversize and then fill them with thickened epoxy resin and the to drill the correct sized hole. That will protect all your hard work. I also suggest butyl tape for use as a sealant. It might work for windows too. It is extremely cheap and like using really sticky chewing gum to seal things. I bought a ton of it off ebay for $20. It is also much less messy than caulk. It comes in black and gray. Be sure to rough up the sealing surfaces of the new panes too.
Thank you for the suggestions and advice!!! butyl tape, is that like plumbers putty? I seen it in rolls, but not sure of it's consistency...
Thank you once again
Rod
Thank you once again
Rod
Rod, I have a 76 or 77 25'. There is a derelict lancer in our boatyard. it has several items including the bow piece. I'm in Buffalo. E-mail me at mack409@verizon.net if you're interested. I'll sp w/ the yard manager to see if he'll give it away. It takes me awhile to check e-mail but I will and respond.
derelict lancer in our boatyard
Thank you Mack,
I have e-mailed you using my hotmail account. Hope to hear from you as soon as you get the chance...
Thanks again
Rod
Thank you Mack,
I have e-mailed you using my hotmail account. Hope to hear from you as soon as you get the chance...
Thanks again
Rod
Anchor locker
Mack, if it has an anchor locker hatch the guy who bought my old boat might pay handsomely for one. It was lost overboard somehow by a previous owner.
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