I’m thinking about making a couple of Major changes to my 1984 standard rig Cat25. I want to be able to sail this boat alone, and need to add a self furling system, a 135% Genoa, and extend the sheets into the cockpit. Has anyone had experience with the products sold by Catalina Direct? Their price seems a tad high for components which are readily available through most boat shops. I also would like to change my Through Hulls. How difficult is this? Is Catalina Direct the best –place to get these upgrades? Thanks
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Gary Bruner
Check out Cat 25 National Association
You need to post this on the forum at the Catalina 25 National Association website. I promise, you will get answers! I'm a hank on guy who hasn't yet used Cat Direct, but many others have. You can access the site through Trailer Sailor website, or directly. http://www.catalina25-250.org
You need to post this on the forum at the Catalina 25 National Association website. I promise, you will get answers! I'm a hank on guy who hasn't yet used Cat Direct, but many others have. You can access the site through Trailer Sailor website, or directly. http://www.catalina25-250.org
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Larry W.
Upgrade for singlehanding
Alan; IMHO, the two most valuable pieces of gear for singlehanding are a reliable autopilot and self-tailing winches. Rollerfurling headsails are right up there, too. The sheets should already be into the cockpit. Do you mean halyards? Good luck, and practice, practice, practice.
Alan; IMHO, the two most valuable pieces of gear for singlehanding are a reliable autopilot and self-tailing winches. Rollerfurling headsails are right up there, too. The sheets should already be into the cockpit. Do you mean halyards? Good luck, and practice, practice, practice.
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LaDonna Bubak - CatalinaOwners
Upgrades
I'm a hank on kinda person too. With a little practice, its really not that difficult to raise
I'm a hank on kinda person too. With a little practice, its really not that difficult to raise
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Michael McCann
Upgrades
I'm with LaDonna, on a boat that size hank 'em on! Just get a good auto pilot to control the boat while you take care of the sails. Been there, done that, on a C25 TR. even in some unbelieveable stuff. Just practice, practice, practice, as Larry says. You can do it. Leave that roller junk off, and she will sail much better. Mike
I'm with LaDonna, on a boat that size hank 'em on! Just get a good auto pilot to control the boat while you take care of the sails. Been there, done that, on a C25 TR. even in some unbelieveable stuff. Just practice, practice, practice, as Larry says. You can do it. Leave that roller junk off, and she will sail much better. Mike
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Barry P. Broyles
Use sail hanks and downhaul.
Alan: About 6 years ago I faced the same question with my C22. The members of my fleet and the staff at the marina recommended that I add downhauls and route my halyards to the back of the cabin top. I tie a boline on the end of the jib downhaul and loop it over the second sail hank from the top before hanking it on the forestay. I then run it down through a small block attached to the bow fitting and back along the port side of the deck through a deck mounted padeye near the shrouds. From there it goes through a cheek block mounted just above the deck on the side of the cabin where it meets the cockpit and is cleated to a jam cleat mounted on the cabin side above the cockpit combing. I than added a organizer plate under the under the mast step to hold turning blocks, and put four shive deck organizers on each side of the cabin top and mover the halyard cleats from the mast to the rear cabin top and rerouted the halyards back to the cockpit. My halyards were long enough since I had to replace the rope portion the previous year and made them long enough to reach back to the sheet winches. I also added sail slugs to the main sail and added a downhaul by tieing a boline around the slug at the bottom of the headboard and ran it down alongside the sail to a padeye on the side of the mast just below the boom than through a turning block attached to organizer plate through the deck organizer and back to a cleat at the rear of the cabin top. This allowed me to raise and lower both sails without leaving the cockpit and the entire setup cost a fraction of what roller furling would cost. Before I leave the dock I hank on the jib or genoa cleat the downhaul tight, snug up and cleat the halyard and tighten and cleat the sheet on the side that the sail is on and it stays put until I raise it. This has worked out great for me and I would recommend it to any one. I have seen a similar setup on a C25 at the marina, besides I don't know about the C25 association but the C22 association racing rules do not allow roller furling. If you have any questions about placement of the hardware I will E-mail you pictures of mine. Barry Broyles C22 #1909 "Brighteyes" LTBROYT6D@cs.com
Alan: About 6 years ago I faced the same question with my C22. The members of my fleet and the staff at the marina recommended that I add downhauls and route my halyards to the back of the cabin top. I tie a boline on the end of the jib downhaul and loop it over the second sail hank from the top before hanking it on the forestay. I then run it down through a small block attached to the bow fitting and back along the port side of the deck through a deck mounted padeye near the shrouds. From there it goes through a cheek block mounted just above the deck on the side of the cabin where it meets the cockpit and is cleated to a jam cleat mounted on the cabin side above the cockpit combing. I than added a organizer plate under the under the mast step to hold turning blocks, and put four shive deck organizers on each side of the cabin top and mover the halyard cleats from the mast to the rear cabin top and rerouted the halyards back to the cockpit. My halyards were long enough since I had to replace the rope portion the previous year and made them long enough to reach back to the sheet winches. I also added sail slugs to the main sail and added a downhaul by tieing a boline around the slug at the bottom of the headboard and ran it down alongside the sail to a padeye on the side of the mast just below the boom than through a turning block attached to organizer plate through the deck organizer and back to a cleat at the rear of the cabin top. This allowed me to raise and lower both sails without leaving the cockpit and the entire setup cost a fraction of what roller furling would cost. Before I leave the dock I hank on the jib or genoa cleat the downhaul tight, snug up and cleat the halyard and tighten and cleat the sheet on the side that the sail is on and it stays put until I raise it. This has worked out great for me and I would recommend it to any one. I have seen a similar setup on a C25 at the marina, besides I don't know about the C25 association but the C22 association racing rules do not allow roller furling. If you have any questions about placement of the hardware I will E-mail you pictures of mine. Barry Broyles C22 #1909 "Brighteyes" LTBROYT6D@cs.com
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Jon Tart
Barry -Pictures please
Barry , can you email me pictures of your modifications? I also have a 22' and will take on this project over the next few months. My email is jontart@prodigy.net
Barry , can you email me pictures of your modifications? I also have a 22' and will take on this project over the next few months. My email is jontart@prodigy.net
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Douglas G Young
Through Hulls instalation
Im in the process of replacing the original to hulls with bronze through hulls. 1) Don't skimp on the valves. Get good ball or cone valves. The gate ones are junk. Process for removal of the old Volcano = Remove the tubes and clamps. Use a good 90 Deg. grinder and grind the volcano almost flush with the interior of the hull. Insert a hacksaw blade through the hole and saw a slot in what is left of the to hull pipe inside the hole. Use a chisel pliers or snips to remove any remaining pipe. Open the hole size up to accept the bronze mushroom head fitting. Seal the interior of the new hole with resin/ epoxie. This seals the edges or core of the hull and fiberglass to prevent water penetration. Now if you have ground the interior surface flat you may not need a backing plate. If its curved make a backing plate from a hard wood. When ready to install used sikaflex or a Marine cement like 3M 5200. Seal the back of the mushroom head and install it. Seal the backing plate and or the inside gland nut. Do NOT tighten to full tight. Let it set overnight and re tighten the next day. If you go tight the first day you risk squeezing most of the sealant out. When you re install plumbing be sure to use two each stainless clamps not just one.( Coast guard spec.) Good luck
Im in the process of replacing the original to hulls with bronze through hulls. 1) Don't skimp on the valves. Get good ball or cone valves. The gate ones are junk. Process for removal of the old Volcano = Remove the tubes and clamps. Use a good 90 Deg. grinder and grind the volcano almost flush with the interior of the hull. Insert a hacksaw blade through the hole and saw a slot in what is left of the to hull pipe inside the hole. Use a chisel pliers or snips to remove any remaining pipe. Open the hole size up to accept the bronze mushroom head fitting. Seal the interior of the new hole with resin/ epoxie. This seals the edges or core of the hull and fiberglass to prevent water penetration. Now if you have ground the interior surface flat you may not need a backing plate. If its curved make a backing plate from a hard wood. When ready to install used sikaflex or a Marine cement like 3M 5200. Seal the back of the mushroom head and install it. Seal the backing plate and or the inside gland nut. Do NOT tighten to full tight. Let it set overnight and re tighten the next day. If you go tight the first day you risk squeezing most of the sealant out. When you re install plumbing be sure to use two each stainless clamps not just one.( Coast guard spec.) Good luck
J
Jon VanderMeer
Singlehanding
I have a 1983 Catalina 25 and have been singlehanding it on Lake Michigan, mostly daysailing. I find the Tillerpilot to be essential as it frees you up to attend to proper sail trim and to check the rigging, etc. It's worth it's weight in gold. I have been up until this year a hank on type. But, realistically, I am tired of having to douse the sail in choppy seas and it's time for a change, besides I need a new headsail, so if Santa comes through this year, I'll join the ranks of roller-furlers. Some sort of autopilot is a must... Jon
I have a 1983 Catalina 25 and have been singlehanding it on Lake Michigan, mostly daysailing. I find the Tillerpilot to be essential as it frees you up to attend to proper sail trim and to check the rigging, etc. It's worth it's weight in gold. I have been up until this year a hank on type. But, realistically, I am tired of having to douse the sail in choppy seas and it's time for a change, besides I need a new headsail, so if Santa comes through this year, I'll join the ranks of roller-furlers. Some sort of autopilot is a must... Jon
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