Need service manual for Valeo alternator

[Rich Stidger]

I have a Volvo MD11L-B and the original equipment alternator is a Valeo A13N234, 14V 60A unit. I want to convert this alternator to use an external regulator and it would be easy if I had a service manual so I can see how to make the connections.It appears that the alternator's existing regulator may be external and the connections that I need may be easy to make. There is a black plastic cover with connections on the back of this alternator as shown in the picture.I've searched with Google but no joy.Does anyone have this info or experience with this alternator?

 

[Fred Ficarra]

Who makes your new regulator Rich?

I bought a Balmar but because of my modification to my old Balmar alternator, I was left with questions about the new regulator installation. A call to their tech guy cleared it right up.Hint; It's soooooo simple. All I had to do was located the field wire. Just power the rotor with one of the brushes from the new regulator. The other brush is grounded. The other regulator connections then fall into place. Didn't have to pull the temporary internal regulator. What in the world are all of your wires for? Looks like the wheel being reinvented.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Fred, my new regulator is Xantrex, similar to.....

the Balmar. It had multi-mode automatic control and includes an equalization mode. It is model 84-2006-01 which is a P-type regulator. I believe this means that it applies a positive current to the field winding in order to energize the alternator.The five regulator connections are pretty simple:Ground+12V Charging battery bank voltage sense+12V ignition to enable the regulatorField connection (blue)Tachometer connection (white)My alternator has several connections:+12V Output (labeled B+)Ground (labeled B-)A connection labeled W (I think this is the tachometer output)A connection labeled D+ (I suspect this might be the output of the diode trio normally used to power the field)Plus several wires that disappear into the plastic housing on the back of the alternator.I suspect that the external plastic housing contains the regulator and that if I had documentation on the connections it would be simple to figure out what connections to swap.I think the field connection may be underneath the plastic housing.Since I am right at the beginning of the new sailing season, I am reluctant to tear into the alternator lest I botch up the system. Hence I am looking for documentation or at least someone with prior knowledge. Worst-case, I will pull the alternator at the end of the season and figure it out over next winter. But I would rather get it installed and running with the new regulator this year.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Consider this, Rich

"It is essential to use a higher capacity alternator when using these three-stage regulators since there is no current limiting control in the system. Current is determined only by the voltage regulation of the regulator, internal resistance of the alternator and battery, and engine speed . Thus with a large, discharged house battery the charging current in the first “bulk” stage can easily be as high as 70-80 amps and the alternator must be able to handle this load." [C34 Projects page, new electrical systems -- http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-electrical-system-upgrade-2.htmlIf you have a large house bank, you may want to reconsider using an external regulator on your small 60 A alternator. You can buy a new 100A alternator for less than $150, vs the $270 for a Balmar. I have one and it works just fine with a Balmar MaxCharge regulator.Your boat, your choice.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Stu, can you specify a model and brand?

nm

 

[Stu Jackson]

Sure, Rich, just read the link

I just corrected it because the ".html" picked up the ]. It should work now.