Need recomendation for glue

[oldsalt]

I have an O'Day 23 with a very large storage area in the cockpit locker. The space goes way down in the belly of the boat. Anything you put in there slides to the bottom out of reach.
I decided to use neting from the trunk of junk cars to divide this space and hold items within reach. Started by gluing 2 X 2 wood blocks to the inside of the hull and other fiberglass surfaces - to hook the neting. Used construction glue. After a week or two blocks started failing at the glue joint.
I am not loading much in the nets, life jackets, paddle, etc.

Question: What kind of glue can I use to hold the wood blocks to the fiberglass?
Dave

 

[Ross]

No answers yet but some questions. When you examine the failed bond,did the bond fail with the wood or with the hull surface? If it failed with the hull surface did it carry residue away with it and leave a scar on the hull surface? what surface prepartion did you make pryor to the glue up? There are more questions but those will serve as a start.

 

[sailaway78]

More questions than answers

Ross is right. You have left more questions than there are answers for. Where did the adhesive fail. The wood or the boat. What kind of adhesive did you use. How well did you clean the hull part. What kind of wood did you use. For what you have described, it shouldn't take an extremely strong bond to hold. But it will have to be fairly moisture resistant. Give us more info.

 

[sailingdog]

Old salt-

You really should epoxy the hooks or blocks to the interior after cleaning the fiberglass thoroughly and sanding it lightly. Use a slightly thickened epoxy, about the consistency of mayo to adhere the blocks to the locker surface. Also, you probably want to seal the wood with epoxy at a minimum, to prevent the wood from rotting or swelling and splitting. Use a decent hardwood for the blocks. Softwoods, like common pine, are likely to absorb moisture, warp and split far too easily.

If the blocks will be exposed to sunlight for any considerably amount of time, you will want to paint over the epoxy, since epoxy tends to break down under UV light exposure.

Instead of thickened epoxy, you could also use MarineTex, which is an epoxy putty, and fairly UV resistant IIRC.

Another option, which is a bit more involved but makes the installation a lot more versatile, is to glass in some T-nuts—say 1/4"x20 thread. Then you can use eyebolts to attach the netting, but can switch them out depending on how you have the netting configured for a given trip.

BTW, construction adhesive is a pretty vague description. It would be better to say what exact adhesive you used, as well as describe how you prepped the area for the adhesive and block.

 

[Mike D]

Good point Ross. Given that surface was clean and free of paint, grease or blush, I would use 5200, West system or marine grade epoxy. I would take into consideration the weight and the angle of the load on the wood blocks. If the load is fairly light, I would probably use the 5200 because it is simpler. Using west system as a glue may require getting the mix of filler proper so it doesn't run out before it sets up.

Mike D

 

[Wayne M]

How about

using a polyurethane glue? Clean both surfaces apply a little moisture and let it set and cure.

 

[sailingdog]

Re: How about

Unless the surfaces are perfectly flat, you'll probably want an adhesive that also works as a gap filler. Most polyurethane adhesives aren't very strong as gap fillers... thickened epoxies are.

 

[Ross]

Re: How about

PL Premium urethane construction adhesive is an outstanding gap filler and it sticks like a brother.

 

[Hermit Scott]

surface prep

Surface prep is everything. If you hit the areas on your boat that you are going to glue to with a sander and remove any surface crud, oxidation, wax etc. also use acetone to clean it up before glueing or epoxying, you won't be able to remove it if you wanted to. 3M 5200, or epoxy would be best. They have those one shot small tubes of epoxy for like $5 that mix together as you push them out of the tube.

 

[Rich (P303)]

I would clean all surfaces and make sure they are dry... get some clear marine grade silicon adhesive and have at it (use a lot... like a 1/8" gasket). You will need to duct tape or secure what you are trying to adhere until the silicon cures.

I attached a piece of composite decking to the inside of my hull by same means. Counter sunk the heads and thru-bolted a macerator to it. I used a lot of silicon... as I wanted it to be able to flex.

No problems so far... holding like a champ. It will be fairly easy to remove if needed.

 

[sailingdog]

I wouldn't recommend anything silicone based. They're relatively weak as adhesives go...and are great at contaminating fiberglass surfaces with silicone oils and making future repairs or modifications a RPITA.

 

[Nik]

Try 3M 100 or 4200. 5200 is as permanent as epoxy, if you ever change your mind you are as likely to break the boats fiberglass bond as the wood strip or the adhesive. Silicone is a gasket material not meant to be used to bond. Personally, except for sealing (port and dead lights) some plastics (acrylic / polycarbonate, a few others) silicone has no use on a boat and 5200 is too darn strong and inflexible. I know I may get flamed for not liking 5200 or silicone.

Nik

 

[Ross]

Try 3M 100 or 4200. 5200 is as permanent as epoxy, if you ever change your mind you are as likeley to break the boats fiberglass bond as the wood strip or the adhesive. Silicone is a gasket material not meant to be used to bond. Personally, except for sealing (port and dead lights) some plastics (acrylic / polycarbonate, a few others) silicone has no use on a boat and 5200 is too darn strong and inflexible. I know I may get flamed for not liking 5200 or silicone.

Nik

No flames from here !! I agree with you.

 

[Maine Sail]

Not..

I know I may get flamed for not liking 5200 or silicone.

Nik

Not by me...!

Using 5200 & silicone, as general purpose sealants, are like fantasizing about Rosie O'Donnel.. You just don't do it..!

 

[sailingdog]

Agree with both the silicone and 5200. Only place the 5200 might make sense is a hull-deck join.

Try 3M 100 or 4200. 5200 is as permanent as epoxy, if you ever change your mind you are as likely to break the boats fiberglass bond as the wood strip or the adhesive. Silicone is a gasket material not meant to be used to bond. Personally, except for sealing (port and dead lights) some plastics (acrylic / polycarbonate, a few others) silicone has no use on a boat and 5200 is too darn strong and inflexible. I know I may get flamed for not liking 5200 or silicone.

Nik

 

[Timo42]

I will chime in for West System, in fact slap a layer of cloth over it to make a proper tab. I find that the pumps make it as easy as 1 part adhesive, and the thickener is simple to add to get the right consistency. I used it to add a reinforcement for a swim ladder, and am adding blocks to attach a headliner. It sets up fast with thickener added so even overhead you can just hold it in place until it sticks. 5200 I used it once and never again. :cussing:
Tim

 

[Roger (Ninette Manitoba)]

Not to hijack your thread, but when I was faced with the same issue of a large lazarette locker and disappearing equipment, I opted for those plastic 5 gallon pails. I strap a number of them together so that they don't tip over and roll around. I use a number of different colors of pails and sort equipment accordingly. Every few years when it becomes necessary to power wash the interior, I pull out the pails (with equipment in) and wash away. It makes the job easier. Just a thought instead of epoxying hooks, nuts, or blocks into the inside of your hull. I've yet had a pail to fail.

 

[Rich (P303)]

I think silicon has limited uses too... like on the ends of screws... so you don't rip your back apart in the bilge.

Maine Sail... you have something against Rosie O'Donnell??? Would you use 5200 or Silicon to keep her mouth shut?

 

[sailingdog]

I think silicon has limited uses too... like on the ends of screws... so you don't rip your back apart in the bilge.

And on cotter pins to prevent them from tearing the sails... but other than that—you shouldn't be using silicone on a boat.

Maine Sail... you have something against Rosie O'Donnell??? Would you use 5200 or Silicon to keep her mouth shut?

LOL... I think he'd choose 5200, that's one thing you want to stay shut...

 

[Nik]

Storm Duffels from Walmart work great. Ya get a BIG one and a medium sized for about 25.00 around here. They are rubber coated and take a beating. They are water resistant, not water proof (except for immersion). I just write on the outside the contents with a permanent marker. Have duffels for specific purposes. Love them.

Nik