I`m assembling my new anchor, chain, rope etc. need a photo showing correct knot/pattern/method to tie stainless wire in the clevis pins to keep them from backing out. Thanks.
Need photo of wire tie in anchor clevis
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I use plastic wire ties. No scrags to cut you. Black ones last a long time exposed to sun. White, not so long.
Don't think there is a school house solution. As long as it prevents the pin from turning you should be golden.
My prererance
My preferance is to use stainless safety wire. No sharp edges if you do it right. See no reason that a zip tie wouldn't work just about as good.
My preferance is to use stainless safety wire. No sharp edges if you do it right. See no reason that a zip tie wouldn't work just about as good.
A couple thoughts-
Plastic wire ties: Be careful that the wire ties you use are all plastic. I have seen some that use a small piece of metal for the jamming tongue. I have heard reports that this bit of metal can rust and weaken under water and fail. I personally use only black UV resistant wire ties and then only on above water rigging pins that I can see and check regularly. And I always use two of them per pin.
For underwater clevis pins I use only stainless wire. Bill is right in that any configuration that keeps the pin from rotating should be fine. However I would recommend two independent wraps of wire so that if one chafes or fails, there is a second loop that will hold the pin. A belt-and-suspenders solution? Yes.
In a previous life I worked in a naval defense contractor facility and among other things we needed to secure pins from turning on high-vibration gatling gun products. The navy was very specific as to how the seizing wire was installed. The wire was wound in a figure eight pattern with the bends in the wire pulling the pin toward a tightening direction. Thus any tendency of the pin to loosen would immediately be met with resistance from the seizing wire to that motion as opposed to having turning resistance only after the wire loops had run through the slack. I choose to use this same technique on my anchor shackle pins because that is how I learned how to do it. But since our anchor clevis pins are not subject to high vibration, I think that using a couple of simple loops would meet the task. Remember that you can check the pin each time when you retrieve the anchor and correct any problem before you drop the next time.
And you were expecting a simple answer?
Plastic wire ties: Be careful that the wire ties you use are all plastic. I have seen some that use a small piece of metal for the jamming tongue. I have heard reports that this bit of metal can rust and weaken under water and fail. I personally use only black UV resistant wire ties and then only on above water rigging pins that I can see and check regularly. And I always use two of them per pin.
For underwater clevis pins I use only stainless wire. Bill is right in that any configuration that keeps the pin from rotating should be fine. However I would recommend two independent wraps of wire so that if one chafes or fails, there is a second loop that will hold the pin. A belt-and-suspenders solution? Yes.
In a previous life I worked in a naval defense contractor facility and among other things we needed to secure pins from turning on high-vibration gatling gun products. The navy was very specific as to how the seizing wire was installed. The wire was wound in a figure eight pattern with the bends in the wire pulling the pin toward a tightening direction. Thus any tendency of the pin to loosen would immediately be met with resistance from the seizing wire to that motion as opposed to having turning resistance only after the wire loops had run through the slack. I choose to use this same technique on my anchor shackle pins because that is how I learned how to do it. But since our anchor clevis pins are not subject to high vibration, I think that using a couple of simple loops would meet the task. Remember that you can check the pin each time when you retrieve the anchor and correct any problem before you drop the next time.
And you were expecting a simple answer?
Well... I really did know that many simple (and not so) replies would come! That is one of the joys of throwing out these questions/queries etc. As usuall, thanks all for the various methods, I knew I would get a sampling menu!!
Here is a picture of the clevis seizing that I use
I went looking for a military description of how to seize the pin, and after finding a document that details the procedure, I realized that the "special" technique that I was remembering really applied to adjacent bolts that had holes drilled in the heads for wiring the head to each other. This is not exactly the same as wiring a shackle pin. I did say my experience was in a previous life.....
However, using a figure eight wrap will put tightening tension on the pin if it tries to move. Below is a picture of what my seizing looks like.
I went looking for a military description of how to seize the pin, and after finding a document that details the procedure, I realized that the "special" technique that I was remembering really applied to adjacent bolts that had holes drilled in the heads for wiring the head to each other. This is not exactly the same as wiring a shackle pin. I did say my experience was in a previous life.....
However, using a figure eight wrap will put tightening tension on the pin if it tries to move. Below is a picture of what my seizing looks like.
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Stainless locking wire is typically type 302-304 stainless and is commonly available in 0.041 and 0.032 diameters. I use the heavier 0.041 size. A one pound spool will last you a lifetime unless you are in the business of building moorings and ground tackle.
I've been using wire that is single strand, and yours looks twisted. I like the looks of it, and wondering if I've been using something inferior. The single seems it work hardens too quickly, and that has always been a concern of mine.
Lock wire is typically solid wire, the twisting is part of the installation process and special pliers are available to get you the right twists per inch. There are youtube videos showing proper installation of lock wire. Also there are aeronautical specifications for proper installation. I know this isn't an airplane forum but the practices apply equally well.
In recent years precut twisted wire lengths started being used to reduce assembly labor. These are custom part numbers and use crimp style ends to hold them in place.
AS 567 is the aeronautical specification but you may have to pay for it to get a copy.
In recent years precut twisted wire lengths started being used to reduce assembly labor. These are custom part numbers and use crimp style ends to hold them in place.
AS 567 is the aeronautical specification but you may have to pay for it to get a copy.
back in my aircraft days in the 60's (military) it was standard to have 7 twist per inch in the wire when safetying fasteners from one to the other..and also you needed to serpentine the wire so if one was to go in the loose direction the other would pull in the tightening direction....
regards
woody
Chris-
The locking wire is solid. The twists that you see are at the end of the wire. There are two separate twisted loops on this clevis pin.
We use Monel seizing wire produced for this exact purpose. It is much more flexible than SS so it can be tighter and it doesn't puncture your finger tips as easily.
Ormiston of England produces a good one and 30 meters should last half a lifetime. I use the same wire on all shackles aloft, by the way, and it has never failed.
I have used wire ties, but only as an indicator, so they must be in plain sight (on deck). I doubt they'd really stop a pin from backing out, only break, indicating a problem.
I use the figure 8 twice around, as I was taught by a few old salts half a century ago.
Ormiston of England produces a good one and 30 meters should last half a lifetime. I use the same wire on all shackles aloft, by the way, and it has never failed.
I have used wire ties, but only as an indicator, so they must be in plain sight (on deck). I doubt they'd really stop a pin from backing out, only break, indicating a problem.
I use the figure 8 twice around, as I was taught by a few old salts half a century ago.
Wire ties are very strong when subjected to horizontal loads, but when they are twisted they break easily. For securing a clevis pin, the twisting load is minimal and a wire tie should suffice. In applications where there is some lateral stress, a wire tie is not so good.
Why is a plastic retention device called a "Wire tie?" Seems like a Wire tie should be made out of wire?
When using lock wire to secure a shackle make sure after you twist and cut the ends to length that you tuck them back inside the shackle or inside the hole in the shackle pin. Those ends are sharp and can result in a puncture wound every time you hoist your anchor.
When using lock wire to secure a shackle make sure after you twist and cut the ends to length that you tuck them back inside the shackle or inside the hole in the shackle pin. Those ends are sharp and can result in a puncture wound every time you hoist your anchor.
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