Hi! I've bareboated the Virgin Islands a few times, and am looking for a different spot to visit, probably around the end of November this year. It would probably just be the wife and myself - on a 36-40 foot something-or-the-other. Antigua looks interesting, albiet more wide-open in terms of sailing than the BVI. We're not too shy about open-ocean or long sails, so that's not a big consideration, but we'll want to be snug in an anchorage every night. What I'm looking for is opinions about sailing around Antigua, and the charter company I'm considering: Sunsail. So, if you've been there, or chartered from Sunsail, please share your experiences! Thanks in advance. -Walt
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Hi Walt, here are a few thoughts.
I did it a few years ago, also in late November and had a great time. Chris Doyle's "Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands" is worth buying before you go. I bought it for grins after I got back and found it to be quite accurate. I especially liked the fact that many of the locals were mentioned by name. It's a clear indication that someone did their homework. The Sunsail base was in Falmouth Harbour, which is on the south coast about 35 min drive from the airport. You'll probably burn a chunk of the first day with check-in, boat orientation, check ride and provisioning. Sunsail will provision the boat for a fee, if you request it in advance. If you prefer to DIY, there's a decent supermarket (Bailey's) within walking distance. English Harbour is cool. You can sail, walk or drive there from Falmouth. We sailed over and anchored for a couple of days. If you're there on a Sunday evening, go up to Shirley Heights for the weekly "jump-up". The view is breathtaking (you can see Guadeloupe, Montserrat and Redonda from there), the food and music are excellent and there's an excellent vibe. People drive from all over for this party, so try not to miss it. Even if it's not Sunday, the view alone is worth the trip. The sailing is a little different from the BVI. The winds are strong and steady, the water is deep and the seas are big in exposed areas. We had a Beneteau 400 with in-mast furling. Some of the crew were new to sailing, so both sails were partly furled for the first few days to reduce heel. Even so, we were getting 8+ kts of boatspeed without trying. Fortunately, the anchorages aren't far apart, so you won't be bashing upwind for too long, unless of course you're like me and enjoy that sort of thing. We took the more tranquil route from English Harbour around the south coast and up the west coast to Dickenson Bay. The water inside the reefs and in the lee of the island was much calmer and navigation was straightforward...the boat had excellent Iolaire/Imray charts. The bars and restaurants and the tourists from the hotels on the beach keep Dickenson lively. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time, as we were delayed on the way there by unseasonably early Christmas winds. We had to wait two days in Jolly Harbour for 35+ kt winds to abate. To sum up...if everyone aboard is prepared to deal with the open water and heavy air, then go for it! The sailing is exceptional. However, if even one of the crew isn't up to the task, then give it some serious thought. SOMEBODY aboard (and it may not be the inexperienced crew) won't be happy and that could ruin the trip. Sorry about the length of the post, I hope it helps. Peter "I shall return" H23 "Raven"
I did it a few years ago, also in late November and had a great time. Chris Doyle's "Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands" is worth buying before you go. I bought it for grins after I got back and found it to be quite accurate. I especially liked the fact that many of the locals were mentioned by name. It's a clear indication that someone did their homework. The Sunsail base was in Falmouth Harbour, which is on the south coast about 35 min drive from the airport. You'll probably burn a chunk of the first day with check-in, boat orientation, check ride and provisioning. Sunsail will provision the boat for a fee, if you request it in advance. If you prefer to DIY, there's a decent supermarket (Bailey's) within walking distance. English Harbour is cool. You can sail, walk or drive there from Falmouth. We sailed over and anchored for a couple of days. If you're there on a Sunday evening, go up to Shirley Heights for the weekly "jump-up". The view is breathtaking (you can see Guadeloupe, Montserrat and Redonda from there), the food and music are excellent and there's an excellent vibe. People drive from all over for this party, so try not to miss it. Even if it's not Sunday, the view alone is worth the trip. The sailing is a little different from the BVI. The winds are strong and steady, the water is deep and the seas are big in exposed areas. We had a Beneteau 400 with in-mast furling. Some of the crew were new to sailing, so both sails were partly furled for the first few days to reduce heel. Even so, we were getting 8+ kts of boatspeed without trying. Fortunately, the anchorages aren't far apart, so you won't be bashing upwind for too long, unless of course you're like me and enjoy that sort of thing. We took the more tranquil route from English Harbour around the south coast and up the west coast to Dickenson Bay. The water inside the reefs and in the lee of the island was much calmer and navigation was straightforward...the boat had excellent Iolaire/Imray charts. The bars and restaurants and the tourists from the hotels on the beach keep Dickenson lively. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time, as we were delayed on the way there by unseasonably early Christmas winds. We had to wait two days in Jolly Harbour for 35+ kt winds to abate. To sum up...if everyone aboard is prepared to deal with the open water and heavy air, then go for it! The sailing is exceptional. However, if even one of the crew isn't up to the task, then give it some serious thought. SOMEBODY aboard (and it may not be the inexperienced crew) won't be happy and that could ruin the trip. Sorry about the length of the post, I hope it helps. Peter "I shall return" H23 "Raven"
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Fred Ficarra
A great place to visit except for the officials
Check out what I've got to say about Antigua in our web site. The WORST place we visited by FAR!. Can't lie. Some of it is on our web site. We were cruisers caught in the trap of the system and were taken advantage of. But the land based tour book we acquired later agreed with what we experienced. THE OFFICIALS SUCK! The worst we found in the western hemisphere, BY FAR! But we learned, on our return trip from Trinidad to Florida and home, we just ignored them and didn't check in. The lazy bastards were just sitting on their butts looking for a bribe anyway. My opinion, my experience. What goes around comes around. What else can you say about a country so corrupt that the minister in charge of paving can only account for one block of pavement?
Check out what I've got to say about Antigua in our web site. The WORST place we visited by FAR!. Can't lie. Some of it is on our web site. We were cruisers caught in the trap of the system and were taken advantage of. But the land based tour book we acquired later agreed with what we experienced. THE OFFICIALS SUCK! The worst we found in the western hemisphere, BY FAR! But we learned, on our return trip from Trinidad to Florida and home, we just ignored them and didn't check in. The lazy bastards were just sitting on their butts looking for a bribe anyway. My opinion, my experience. What goes around comes around. What else can you say about a country so corrupt that the minister in charge of paving can only account for one block of pavement?
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Walt Allensworth
Thank you both...
... for your responses. Quite different experiences it seems. Peter - that was a lot of typing, and I REALLY appreciate it! Fred - could you check that link? It seems to give me a bunch of pictures of a re-fit, not info on cruising Antigua. Also - I'd love to get comments from other people too. Anyone else?
... for your responses. Quite different experiences it seems. Peter - that was a lot of typing, and I REALLY appreciate it! Fred - could you check that link? It seems to give me a bunch of pictures of a re-fit, not info on cruising Antigua. Also - I'd love to get comments from other people too. Anyone else?
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Fred Ficarra
Walt, you won't get info on cruising Antigua from
my web site. On the opening film strip is a story of Antigua and why the boat suffered such horrible damage. It's underneath the photo of the interior being ripped out. It's just what happened to us.
my web site. On the opening film strip is a story of Antigua and why the boat suffered such horrible damage. It's underneath the photo of the interior being ripped out. It's just what happened to us.
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carisea
Antigua
We bareboated with Sun Yacht Charters (since merged)Great time did the caribbean side and North Sound then sailed to Guadeloupe and back. Great trip!! 1997 Winds are bigger than BVI seas are definitely bigger We had no problem with officials but I do hear there is alot of corruption.
We bareboated with Sun Yacht Charters (since merged)Great time did the caribbean side and North Sound then sailed to Guadeloupe and back. Great trip!! 1997 Winds are bigger than BVI seas are definitely bigger We had no problem with officials but I do hear there is alot of corruption.
One possible reason for different experiences
Our trip originated in Antigua and we didn't leave the country, so I never had to deal with Customs or Immigration. The Sunsail base manager had also mentioned that trips to Guadeloupe and points south were routine, so it would appear that as far as the charter companies are concerned, Customs and Immigration aren't a problem. However, I also know that petty officials in many Caribbean islands hassle their own citizens as well as visitors from other islands. Customs is particularly notorious, so I don't doubt Fred's story. I'm not saying this is the case but maybe it has to to do with the fact that the locals (and Fred) are private citizens, while bareboaters are tourists (a source of revenue) so the official word is not to hassle them. Another possibility is that Customs sees the same charter boats all the time, so they know what to expect and can clear them in quickly, while private cruisers require more effort. Just guessing... Peter H23 "Raven"
Our trip originated in Antigua and we didn't leave the country, so I never had to deal with Customs or Immigration. The Sunsail base manager had also mentioned that trips to Guadeloupe and points south were routine, so it would appear that as far as the charter companies are concerned, Customs and Immigration aren't a problem. However, I also know that petty officials in many Caribbean islands hassle their own citizens as well as visitors from other islands. Customs is particularly notorious, so I don't doubt Fred's story. I'm not saying this is the case but maybe it has to to do with the fact that the locals (and Fred) are private citizens, while bareboaters are tourists (a source of revenue) so the official word is not to hassle them. Another possibility is that Customs sees the same charter boats all the time, so they know what to expect and can clear them in quickly, while private cruisers require more effort. Just guessing... Peter H23 "Raven"
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Ricky
Another bad Antigua experience
We chartered out of Antigua a few years ago, and also had a total nightmare with many different officials. I'll skip all of the details, but I have sailed throughout almost the entire Caribbean as well as the Bahamas, and our Antigua experience stands out as the very worst. But the sailing to neighboring islands (Nevis, St. Kitts, Statia, & Saba) was a real blast.
We chartered out of Antigua a few years ago, and also had a total nightmare with many different officials. I'll skip all of the details, but I have sailed throughout almost the entire Caribbean as well as the Bahamas, and our Antigua experience stands out as the very worst. But the sailing to neighboring islands (Nevis, St. Kitts, Statia, & Saba) was a real blast.
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