Need new bridle for my backstay.

Vega1447 · May 22, 2007

Hi
my starter motor cranks the engine by turning a v-belt that rotates the
fly-wheel.

There is provision (grooves in starter motor drive wheel and flywheel)
for two belts from starter to flywheel - at present I have only one.

Is it standard practice to have two belts from starter to flywheel?

(Obviously there is another belt from flywheel to alternator.)

thanks

John

Vega 1447 Breakaway--
John A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website

vegatern · May 23, 2007

Although I am not the best qualified to answer this I would think
replacing the adjustable backstay bridle should not be a problem. The
portion attached to the mast should have a terminal fitting at the
lower end. To this goes a predrilled stainless triangle plate. Make
up two new wires, the same size as the existing stay, with terminal
fittings at either end. These will go from the triangle plate to, at
least on the Tern, turnbuckles at the chainplates at both stern
quarters. There should be a toggle between the turnbuckle and the
chainplate to act as a universal joint. The terminal ends could be
swage type installed by a rigging shop but you can do it yourself
using Norseman swageless terminals, which are designed to be
installed by the boat owner. An advantage to the swageless terminal
is that if your measurement is too long you will be able to make the
adjustment yourself. The length of the wires you make up will depend
on the length of the existing backstay, which I think would be
different for different boats (as most have been re-rigged over the
years). The backstay is adjustable by pulling the two legs
together, which tensions the backstay. on my boat this is done with a
split backstay adjuster and a 4 part block from the adjuster to one of
the chainplates, but can also be accomplished by cinching up on the
split stays with a line.
Designing the system can be done by digging through a marine hardware
catalog and picking out compatible parts, I mean like a jaw type
turnbuckle to an eye terminal fitting etc. Hope this helps.
craig Tern #1519

pelagicasd · May 26, 2007

Another and cheaper way to do it is to use one piece of wire and loop it
around a thimble. Nicro press sleeve under the thimble to hold it.
Turnbuckle from the backstay to the thimble. Attach the bottom of the
bridle by terminating each end with thimbles and nicropress sleeves. Two
stainless quick-links to connect it the wishbones.
Cost from Defender for the materials:
14 feet 3/16 7X7 wire @ $.86 a foot $12.02
3 3/16 stainless thimbles @ $1.99 each $5.97
3 3/16 nicropress sleeves @ $.91 each $2.71
2 stainless quick links (I'd use 1/4") @ $7.99 each $15.98
Total $36.68
A Nicropress swaging tool is $50.59 from Defender but some body around your
marina probably has one.
When I re-did Lyric's rigging I used the method as described by Craig except
I have a single turnbuckle btween the plate and the backstay. My other half
worked for West Marine and we got employee discount which helped
considerably. Swageless terminals are on clearance from Defender. $36.80
apiece for the 3/16" forks. for the steel plate I used 1/4 inch thickness
and drilled the holes 21/64. The terminals use a 5/16" pin. Best of luck
with the job. Worry about the fine tuning later. Just get her underway. Walt
P.S. anyone planning on using swageless terminals should buy extra formers
and make a connection on a piece of scrap wire first. Then take it apart.
Better to figure it out on shore then try to figure it out underway. We
carried a piece of wire long enough to replace any stay and extra terminals.
we also carried a double ended terminal to connect a broken stay until we
could replace it. Other possibilities are wire rope clamps and a short piece
of chain. Minimun for this would be 4 clamps. 2 above and 2 below with the
wire bent around the chain. Ugly but functional.

albinvega1865 · May 29, 2007

Hi there,

any advice on how to patch a hole in my vinyl dodger? I have a tear in the material that is about 4.5-5" long and it goes clear through the vinyl. Are there kits to repair such damage? Do I need to get out the needle and thread? Are there glues or iron on patches that might work to get me through the season? Out of money currently and just need to get her secure enough to get me through this season.

thanks everyone!
Chris
V1865

bobnlesafloat · May 29, 2007

On Spring Fever we have two belts fitted - for a while I was forced to use only one, having given one away to someone who's need (a water-pump) was greater than mine; it worked, but I found that I needed to keep the belt tension tighter than I liked to get it to start.

Bob Carlisle, Spring Fever - 1776

John Kinsella John.Kinsella@... wrote:
Hi
my starter motor cranks the engine by turning a v-belt that rotates the
fly-wheel.

There is provision (grooves in starter motor drive wheel and flywheel)
for two belts from starter to flywheel - at present I have only one.

Is it standard practice to have two belts from starter to flywheel?

(Obviously there is another belt from flywheel to alternator.)

thanks

John

Vega 1447 Breakaway

--
John A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website

Vega1447 · May 29, 2007

Thanks Bob
that makes a lot of sense.

Regards,

John

Vega 1447 BreakawayJohn A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website

Vega1447 · May 29, 2007

Hi all..
Prob of little interest to most (all?) but just in case:

I was unhappy with location of engine starter key on bulkhead below bridge
deck - vulnerable to accidental kicking etc and also unhappy with basic
idea of key start as key could be lost/damaged..

I usually single-hand so bullet-proof engine starting is a Good Thing..

After taking advice from this forum & friends locally replaced starter key
switch with a weatherproof "momentary/non-latching" push button which
engages two "chassis'" on inside of bulkhead - one a normally open NO
(off) switch that when activated energises the starter relay, the second a
normally closed (on) NC switch that when activated *breaks* the field line
to the alternator for easier cold starting.

I also installed a toggle switch located on side of plywood housing in
saloon forward of bridge deck containing wiring/fuses etc.

This when closed supplies power to the NO switch for starter relay and
also powers the "idiot light" circuit.

Essentially I duplicated the logic of the starter key - used a multimeter
continuity checker to double-check which wire did what (with batteries
didconnected).

It all works fine - the trickiest part was ensuring that all the
connections were secure.

I'm sure this is all very obvious to many but it took me a while to figure
out - IANAE (I am not an electrician).

Thanks to all who offered advice.

John

Vega 1447 BreakawayJohn A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website

vegatern · May 29, 2007

Walt, Your system with one turnbuckle and one wire nicopressed
around a thimble is cleaner and simpler than on the Tern but I was
warned not to use a nicopress as a terminal fitting, at least on
lifelines, as they may slip under a very heavy load. If that was
correct then perhaps your suggestion of using multiple wire rope
clamps at the chainplate may be the safer system. It certainly would
be simple. By the way, sometime I would like to hear more about your
trip down the coast and sailing in Mexico. If you ever get down to
the Monterey/Carmel area I hope you would give me a holler. Craig

vegatern · May 29, 2007

I had a similar problem with Sunbrella fabric, in a spot that would
have been impossible to sew. I found a waterproof glue at a fabric
store just made for the purpose. It worked like a champ and now I
keep it on the boat. A shop that repairs auto upholstery may have
something as well. Craig Tern #1519

albinvega1865 · May 30, 2007

Thanks Craig,
I found some Barge glue that I think might do the trick. I should last the season and then I will probably buy a new set up unless I feel creative an try to sew my own. Thanks for the response!
Chris
V1865

vegatern vegatern@... wrote: I had a similar problem with Sunbrella fabric, in a spot that would
have been impossible to sew. I found a waterproof glue at a fabric
store just made for the purpose. It worked like a champ and now I
keep it on the boat. A shop that repairs auto upholstery may have
something as well. Craig Tern #1519