Need larger hole in hatch

Dr. D

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Nov 3, 2018
278
Beneteau Oceanis 35.1 Herrington Harbour North
The forward hatch on my boat has a passive ventilator. I want to replace it with a solar/battery active ventilator.

The existing hole for the passive ventilator is about 2.5" in diameter. The active ventilator needs a 3.5" hole. (No, I couldn't find a smaller active ventilator.) What is the best way to drill through the hatch? It must be some variety of acrylic which, from sites on the font of all knowledge, shouldn't be too difficult. Use a wood backing, use an acrylic hole drill, let the drill do the work.

Anyone done this and have any tips to pass along?
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,049
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Tape the surfaces where the cut will be. That helps to avoid cracking. After the hole is cut, sand the edges of the hole to blunt the sharp corners and prevent cracking.. Good luck.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,161
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Use a wood backing, use an acrylic hole drill, let the drill do the work.
Acrylic hole drill doesn't exist. Use a 3.5" quality hole saw (DEWALT, Klein, Milwaukee) which will be razor sharp. Remove the hatch. Ensure the the 3/4" plywood base is firmly attached to the acrylic hatch for a pilot hole. Use minimum pressure and maximum speed. Pause frequently if sticking occurs.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,771
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Ralph, do you need to run the drill in reverse (like I do when starting to drill through gelcoat) to get the hole started in acrylic?
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,456
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
The challenge is that you don’t have a way to use a pilot bit….

When I needed to drill out a few thru-hull holes a bit bigger, I drove a wooden plug into the existing hole, then used that to center the pilot bit on my hole saw. Worked fine. So you need to use some plywood to fill the exiting hole. Maybe screw larger pieces top and bottom to hold the piece in place. Sort of sandwich the circle in place.

As others have said, tape the area to be cut, and cut without a lot of pressure. If you cut too fast, it might melt the plastic too, so watch for that.


Greg
 
Mar 6, 2008
1,295
Catalina 1999 C36 MKII #1787 Coyote Point Marina, CA.
To make a larger hole, use a 2.5" hole cutter on the drill bit and on the same bit fasten a 3.5" hole saw. The 2.5" will naturally be longer since it is in front of the 3.5" and it will hold the 3.5" centered.
 
Aug 19, 2021
505
Hunter 280 White House Cove Marina
To make a larger hole, use a 2.5" hole cutter on the drill bit and on the same bit fasten a 3.5" hole saw. The 2.5" will naturally be longer since it is in front of the 3.5" and it will hold the 3.5" centered.
What a great idea.
 
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jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,089
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
One thing that's unfortunate about aftermarket additions like this is that "working" acrylic - cutting, drilling, machining in any way - introduces stresses into the material that can result in crazing, which is precipitated and/or accelerated by sunlight. It would be ideal if one could stress-relieve the piece after cutting the hole, which is done my heat treatment, kind of like annealing it.
 

dmax

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Jul 29, 2018
1,157
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
When I drill or cut acrylic, I find it best to sandwich it between two pieces of plywood and drill/cut through the whole sandwich. This eliminates chatter and other problems, especially with thin acrylics.
 

jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,089
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
When I drill or cut acrylic, I find it best to sandwich it between two pieces of plywood and drill/cut through the whole sandwich. This eliminates chatter and other problems, especially with thin acrylics.
Even at today's plywood prices? :)
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,161
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Ralph, do you need to run the drill in reverse (like I do when starting to drill through gelcoat) to get the hole started in acrylic?
Most important, just make sure the drill bit, hole saw, whatever is sharp.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,161
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
What a tempest in a teapot. Bullcrap if you'll pardon the the salty language.

Acrylic is one of the easiest synthetic materials, next to Starboard, for working with power tools. Fibrerglass, not so much because it dulls any cutting tool due to the glass content.

The challenge is that you don’t have a way to use a pilot bit….
Greg, as mentioned in post #3, use 3/4" construction (cheap) plywood as the material for a new pilot hole. The hatch frame is sitting on the work bench. Extend the pilot drill so it has a good grab before the 3-1/2" hole cutter contacts the acrylic. Attach a large piece of 3/4" ply to the underside with a few pieces of double sided tape and clamp the whole mess down on the bench. I say to use 3/4" ply so the pilot drill doesn't get sloppy towards the end of the cut. Hell, if I'm really in a hurry, I've clamped acrylic to the bench itself and drilled into the bench top for a pilot. Not very workmanlike at all :redface:.

If you cut too fast, it might melt the plastic too, so watch for that.
With every cutting tool used on acrylic, maximum speed and the lightest possible pressure is mandatory. And sharp, sharp, sharp. Carbide edges whenever possible. If the cutter is dull, it takes time, and you don't have time, you're time is valuable, time is money, so it's push, push, push, harder and harder and harder, and pretty soon the acrylic is melting, and the cutter grabs, and the cutter wobbles, and #^$&%%@$!#& what a bunch of crap :cuss:.

On an expensive project like this, a brand new 3-1/2" hole saw would be in order as they don't come in carbide. If possible, on this expensive project, use a drill press.

One thing that's unfortunate about aftermarket additions like this is that "working" acrylic - cutting, drilling, machining in any way - introduces stresses into the material that can result in crazing,
There is no heat involved in working acrylic, so no internal stresses when everything returns to room temperature.

This eliminates chatter and other problems, especially with thin acrylics.
If this is a Bomar or Lewmar hatch, it's at least 8mm (0.315") thick so no worries there.

All of the problems quoted above are due to operator error. If you're using a electric hand drill, practice, practice, practice on scrap acrylic before digging in. Start twisting and wobbling and it's game over. :eek: :eek: :eek: .
 
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jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,089
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
There is no heat involved in working acrylic, so no internal stresses when everything returns to room temperature.
That's B.S. I happen to know about this from my experience making underwater camera housings from acrylic 40 years ago. Really, @Ralph Johnstone , you don't know what you're talking about here, and you just contradict people who do.

"Processes commonly used to fabricate acrylic sheets, such as thermoforming, cementing, machining, line bending, buffing, flame polishing and screen printing, can cause stress to the acrylic."

Discover Why Annealing is the Best Way to Eliminate Internal Acrylic Stresses & Produce Greater Dimensional Stability & Resistance to Crazing
 
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Jan 4, 2006
7,161
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
you don't know what you're talking about here, and you just contradict people who do.
Oh really, and you do ? ? ? Didn't I just say in post #12 that thermal heating causes stress once the acrylic cools.

"Processes commonly used to fabricate acrylic sheets, such as thermoforming, cementing, machining, line bending, buffing, flame polishing and screen printing, can cause stress to the acrylic."
Doesn't thermoforming involve heating ? How about line bending and flame polishing ? Heating as well. Machining cannot induce stress and neither can buffing unless high heat is induced by friction.

I'll pass this off as just a momentary lack of attention on your part as opposed to your usual thoughtful commentary.
 

jviss

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Feb 5, 2004
7,089
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
Ralph, I don't want to argue with you, and I don't know the exact mechanism, but I can tell you from experience that machining acrylic, even without creating a lot of heat, can lead to crazing unless the piece is stress-relieved by annealing.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,161
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I don't know the exact mechanism, but I can tell you from experience that machining acrylic, even without creating a lot of heat, can lead to crazing unless the piece is stress-relieved by annealing.
Interesting. All I can even guess is that the machining created reduced area locations that allowed external forces to create additional internal stress. Doesn't explain the curative forces of the annealing though.

That and $1.50 will get you a cup of coffee in most restaurants .
 

Dr. D

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Nov 3, 2018
278
Beneteau Oceanis 35.1 Herrington Harbour North
Thanks for all the input. It went fine. Until I went to put the collar in the 3.5" hole. Reread the instructions and saw that the hole needed to be 3.75". An hour routing out the hole with a big drill bit. Note to self: Read instructions more than once fast.....
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