Need hunter 22 standing rigging tension

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Dave

I searched but couldn't find the answer. does anybody know the recommended tension for the standing rigging (shrouds and forestay) on a hunter 22. my father-in-law just took delivery of a one (not sure what year) and wants help stepping the mast for a saturday sail. please email me with any info. thanks in advance. david.taylor@mech-solutions.com
 
M

mike

h22 shroud tension

I have my uppers set at 20 and my lowers set at 18 which works for me; there are no "numbers" for these indicated in the manual; perhaps you could contact Hunter and see if they'll recommend a preferred tension
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Rig tension

These values are recommended for the H23 but they should apply to the H22 as well as both boats have similar rigs. The upper shrouds should be set initially at 20% of the breaking strength of the rigging wire and the lowers should be set at about 10%. The breaking strength of 1x19 5/32 stainless steel wire is listed at 3500 lb. That results in 700 lb for the upper shrouds and 350 lb for the lowers. At these settings, the forestay tension works out to be around 900 lb. You'll need to buy or borrow a Loos tension gauge (about $45, but worth it). If you have a different size wire, adjust the tensions accordingly. Here's the recommended rig tuning sequence: 1) slack all the standing rigging (forestay, upper and lower shrouds and both sides of the split backstay) until the mast can be moved around a bit by hand 2) take the slack out of the uppers then make sure the mast is straight from side to side. I hoist a fiberglass surveyors tape to the masthead on the main halyard and measure to the port and starboard chainplates. Adjust the turnbuckles until the mast is straight. 3) adjust the forestay turnbuckle until you have the right amount of mast rake (about an inch measured at the boom). To measure rake, I hang something heavy from the main halyard and then measure from the point where the halyard crosses the boom back to the mast. 4) tighten the uppers evenly until you have about 600 lb in each, then check again to make sure the mast is still straight from side to side. At this point there should be about an inch or so of fore-and-aft pre-bend in the mast. You can see it by sighting up the mast track. Add the last 100 lb, then tighten the lowers. If you tighten the lowers first, it is much harder to get the pre-bend into the mast. 5) Tighten the backstay if you still need more mast pre-bend. More pre-bend may be needed to flatten an old, blown-out mainsail properly. Put cotter rings in BOTH sides of EVERY turnbuckle. 6) sail the boat close-hauled in at least 15 kt of wind. If the leeward shrouds go slack, you need more tension in the uppers. Readjust. 7) Fine tune as needed. The backstay adjusts pre-bend (more tension = more bend), the forestay adjusts rake (but only if the rig is slack), the uppers affect side-to-side straightness (when the rig is slack) and pre-bend (when the rig is under tension), the lowers affect side-to-side straightness (when rig is slack) and mid-mast stiffness (ease of bending) when rig is under tension. It's not as complicated as it sounds, but it may take an afternoon to get it right. Once you have the rig tuned, mark the turnbuckles with a spot of paint or bright nail polish so you can find the settings easily if you lower the mast and raise it again later. Good luck Peter H23 "Raven"
 
J

JChiarito

Thankya Peter

I needed that info in a LARGE way, as this is my first Trailer Sailor and I wasnt certain how much to invest in a Tension Gauge. Many Thankyas for the knowledge. Johnny StarGazer
 
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