I need to install some type of ventilation on my boat. I had a nicro solar vent through the cabin top on my last boat and was happy with it. Any suggestions on whether it is better to install one of these through the cabin top or through the forward lexan hatch? The hatch is more expendable than the deck so the hatch seems like a better spot, but since it is so thin I was not sure how installation would work. I read that a starter hole, then finish with a jig saw worked for someone installing vents, but I was not sure if that was through lexan. Any knowledge of getting through the lexan without cracking it, and how the nicro solar vents install would be appreciated.
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Dave Smith
working with lexan
If the material is a true "lexan" , use the same tools and care you would use on a fine piece of furniture grade veneer plywood. Cover your surface with tape to prevent scratches, then use a sharp, fine tooth blade in your saw. Work slowly, you want to cut through it. If you lean on it too hard, you'll make the blade hot and start melting instead of cutting. Take your time and you'll be OK - true "lexan" or other polycarbonate material is tough - hard to crack.
If the material is a true "lexan" , use the same tools and care you would use on a fine piece of furniture grade veneer plywood. Cover your surface with tape to prevent scratches, then use a sharp, fine tooth blade in your saw. Work slowly, you want to cut through it. If you lean on it too hard, you'll make the blade hot and start melting instead of cutting. Take your time and you'll be OK - true "lexan" or other polycarbonate material is tough - hard to crack.
How thin do you think that acrylic is?
Brian: What boat do you own? How thin do you think that this acrylic is? I do not think that it is Lexan, but not sure. The BEST way to cut a hole is with a hole saw. They are a little expensive but make the job a snap. If you need to use a sabre saw, then you need to drill the pilot hole/holes large enough to get the saw blade in and do like Davd suggested (tape the area and go as slow as possible). You really need a variable speed saw to do this properly. The speed of the blade caused heat buildup and melts the plastic behind the blade.
Brian: What boat do you own? How thin do you think that this acrylic is? I do not think that it is Lexan, but not sure. The BEST way to cut a hole is with a hole saw. They are a little expensive but make the job a snap. If you need to use a sabre saw, then you need to drill the pilot hole/holes large enough to get the saw blade in and do like Davd suggested (tape the area and go as slow as possible). You really need a variable speed saw to do this properly. The speed of the blade caused heat buildup and melts the plastic behind the blade.
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Les Andersen
drill the hole
Brian, I have installed a large square Nicro vent through a lexan hatch. Look up the specs but for the large ones you need about a 4 inch hole. Most places that sell the vents sell the hole saw (BoatUS, West, etc). I believe Home depot also has the saw. As was stated, put down masking tape to protect the hatch. Drill the pilot hole through the hatch before you start with the hole saw blade. Don't run the drill too fast or stop every 15-20 secs or so to keep the heat buildup down. I finished mine with a sanding drum in a quick dressup pass but since you will cover the hole it is really not necessary. The vent is glued onto the hatch. make sure the vent fits without binding in the hole or it might crack the hatch. Make sure your vent is big enough cus there is no take out after you install. They sell a black rubber finish ring that goes on the inside to make it look ok and to keep you from bashing your head. It sticks down 2-3 inches under the hatch when finished. Works very nicely when complete. Get the stainless steel cover as the plastic seems to discolor after time. Good luck. Les s/v Mutual Fun
Brian, I have installed a large square Nicro vent through a lexan hatch. Look up the specs but for the large ones you need about a 4 inch hole. Most places that sell the vents sell the hole saw (BoatUS, West, etc). I believe Home depot also has the saw. As was stated, put down masking tape to protect the hatch. Drill the pilot hole through the hatch before you start with the hole saw blade. Don't run the drill too fast or stop every 15-20 secs or so to keep the heat buildup down. I finished mine with a sanding drum in a quick dressup pass but since you will cover the hole it is really not necessary. The vent is glued onto the hatch. make sure the vent fits without binding in the hole or it might crack the hatch. Make sure your vent is big enough cus there is no take out after you install. They sell a black rubber finish ring that goes on the inside to make it look ok and to keep you from bashing your head. It sticks down 2-3 inches under the hatch when finished. Works very nicely when complete. Get the stainless steel cover as the plastic seems to discolor after time. Good luck. Les s/v Mutual Fun
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Bob Howie
Hole Saw
A drill-powered hole saw is, by far, the best way to go and a tip is you want to buy them at Home Depot or some place like that NOT at boat stores. I prefer DeWalt hole saws -- maybe because they are yellow, I don't know, but I have DeWalt cordless drills and they, in my opinion, are pretty much the best -- and you can get them in a variety of sizes at nearly half the cost of boat supply stores. Be sure to get the DeWalt mandrels, too. These are good saws that cut clean, quick holes and last a long, long time with just reasonable care. A good idea, too, is to stop once in awhile to clean out the "groove" the saw is cutting as it makes the cutting go quicker. You can also use WD40 to both lube the saw during the cut and to also keep it a little cooler so you don't melt the plexiglas or Lexan in your hatch. My guess is that unless someone replace the acrylic in your hatch, it's typically not Lexan since Lexan is much more expensive that sheet acrylic and boat manufacturers are not known for installing this kind of cost-based luxury in your hatch. It might be Lexan, but I'm a little doubtful based on experience. One thought might be to replace the acrylic if it's getting old. I did that in mine, but I replaced it with 1/4" tinted tempered safety glass plate and it's a lot tougher than you think. I've bounced winch handles off them a few times with no damage at all, but that's not really a practice I'd recommend! You can have the glass company cut the appropriate size hole in the plate and you can install the deck ring in the glass using 3M 5200. Believe me, it won't leak!! And, you can install the interior finish trim ring on the inside the same way for double leakproofing. I'm absolutely NO wizard with a jig saw so I can't really recommend that practice for this kind of work. When I use jigsaws I use them carefully and, as the other gentlemen well-suggested, use a sanding drum to clean up the cuts. I'd stick with the hole saws. By the way, pricewise, you are looking at about $30-$40 for the hole saw and mandrel and my only other piece of advice is don't use a cheap one. Good luck.
A drill-powered hole saw is, by far, the best way to go and a tip is you want to buy them at Home Depot or some place like that NOT at boat stores. I prefer DeWalt hole saws -- maybe because they are yellow, I don't know, but I have DeWalt cordless drills and they, in my opinion, are pretty much the best -- and you can get them in a variety of sizes at nearly half the cost of boat supply stores. Be sure to get the DeWalt mandrels, too. These are good saws that cut clean, quick holes and last a long, long time with just reasonable care. A good idea, too, is to stop once in awhile to clean out the "groove" the saw is cutting as it makes the cutting go quicker. You can also use WD40 to both lube the saw during the cut and to also keep it a little cooler so you don't melt the plexiglas or Lexan in your hatch. My guess is that unless someone replace the acrylic in your hatch, it's typically not Lexan since Lexan is much more expensive that sheet acrylic and boat manufacturers are not known for installing this kind of cost-based luxury in your hatch. It might be Lexan, but I'm a little doubtful based on experience. One thought might be to replace the acrylic if it's getting old. I did that in mine, but I replaced it with 1/4" tinted tempered safety glass plate and it's a lot tougher than you think. I've bounced winch handles off them a few times with no damage at all, but that's not really a practice I'd recommend! You can have the glass company cut the appropriate size hole in the plate and you can install the deck ring in the glass using 3M 5200. Believe me, it won't leak!! And, you can install the interior finish trim ring on the inside the same way for double leakproofing. I'm absolutely NO wizard with a jig saw so I can't really recommend that practice for this kind of work. When I use jigsaws I use them carefully and, as the other gentlemen well-suggested, use a sanding drum to clean up the cuts. I'd stick with the hole saws. By the way, pricewise, you are looking at about $30-$40 for the hole saw and mandrel and my only other piece of advice is don't use a cheap one. Good luck.
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Rick Webb
Go with the Hole Saw
But check with an industrial supply dealer. I got one from a place out here for about $20. One other thing to check and be ready for is the size of the mandrell bit. I had to dig out my half inch drill. You can then rent it out for other to do theirs.
But check with an industrial supply dealer. I got one from a place out here for about $20. One other thing to check and be ready for is the size of the mandrell bit. I had to dig out my half inch drill. You can then rent it out for other to do theirs.
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Denny P.
Might wanna look at sears
Sears has a new tool on the market with a clamp on circle guide which looks about foolproof. (I think that's why I am lookin at it) I believe that it is the roto zip cutter. I am not real good following a line with any kind of a saw so I try to stick with one that can be clamped or use a jig. Might be worth a look?? But then part of my budget monthly budget includes buying new tools, what can I say?? All the best Denny P.
Sears has a new tool on the market with a clamp on circle guide which looks about foolproof. (I think that's why I am lookin at it) I believe that it is the roto zip cutter. I am not real good following a line with any kind of a saw so I try to stick with one that can be clamped or use a jig. Might be worth a look?? But then part of my budget monthly budget includes buying new tools, what can I say?? All the best Denny P.
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