Need Help with replacing traveler and Car

[Bill Lockridge]

I need to replace my Traveler and Traveler car and I do not want to relocate to my cabin top. I want to keep it right where it is but I'm not sure what will fit there (i.e. Harken,Garhaur, etc.)? Any and all help will be appreciated I'm installing a Doyle stackpack and need to replace bad traveler so I can use my new sails.

 

[jcherubini]

MY recommendation-- if anyone cares!

For this application here is what I would use:a. Schaefer 42-85 1-1/2" traveller mounted on bridge deck (across a piece of teak if necessary for trim-- though not needed for strength). I think 5 ft is enough for the front end of the cockpit (trim with hacksaw if necc.).b. Control blocks like Schaefer 74-83 and 74-84 for 4:1 purchase on traveller car.c. Traveller car, Schaefer 72-83.d. Schaefer series 505 triple blocks including the one with a cam cleat for 6:1 purchase on the mainsheet. Instead of a dead-end to a becket bring the mainsheet forward to a block at the mast base and back along the cabin to a winch so there are two ends (like we had on our Raider 33 Antigone). Thus you can handle it like a dinghy's in the cockpit or trim it in heavy weather too.e. 1/2" low-stretch yacht braid all round for ease of handling.I am looking at pp. 8-9 and pp. 34-35 of their catalogue from about 2000-2001. Schaefer is far and away the industry standard and this application should be typical for proper end-boom sheeting of a 33-footer's mainsheet.BTW-- Forgive me, but I have NO experience with Garhauer anything.JC

 

[Ed Schenck]

Deferring to JC II, but. . .

On my H37C I eliminated the sheet end going forward under the boom and back to the cabintop winch. I just did not like the lack of control. With 4:1 at the traveler on the bridgedeck I can handle most conditions. I plan to install two more blocks inside the large fiddles which can give me 6:1 with the other end of the sheet. But even with 4:1 I can use the jib winch if necessary.I like Garhauer products, that is what my new fiddle blocks are, one with a cam cleat. And my new vang. But I could not guess which traveler would fit.

 

[Bill Lockridge]

Thanks Just What I Needed

Thank You for all the great specs and part Numbers it was immeasurably helpful. It's a boon having J.C. II on the line is great.

 

[Gregg Brock]

Traveler and Tract replacement

I had to replace my traveler tract, sheeting system, and traveler car after an accidental jibe broke the original. My biggest problem was how to get to some of the bolts that secured the traveler tract. I had access to all but about 6 bolts located on the starboard side. I had to cut a section out of the bulkhead, located in the head,where I could reach them. There's not alot of room to work with but you shouldn't have to cut any large holes. I ended up using a dremel to cut the fiberglass but be careful, watch out for the wiring to the aft cabin lights. It's directly below the traveler tract. I had to rewire the cabin light when I cut through it. I guess the wiring is done during the molding process because this stuff(wiring) was embeded in the fiberglass. I ended up putting a Harken car and windward sheeting system with the torlon bearings. It's very smooth under load and a vast improvement over the original. I most likely wouldn't have gone to all this trouble and simply replaced the car, but it's not in production anymore(Rutgerson?). To match everything back to the way it should be, I had to replace the whole thing as a unit. Total cost of parts was around $800.00 Hope this helps.Gregg and Kathy Brock"The Lusty Wench"h28.5 (85)