Recently the port spreader light stopped working on my 1983 H34. I checked over the wires at the panel and everything was fine there. There is only one wire at the switch so I'm assuming that the port spreader wires are connected to the starboard spreader wires somewhere along their route to the panel. The starboard light works fine. So I went up to take a look at the setup. The bulb is connected directly to the swivel and it doesn't screw off for replacement. It looks as though I need to replace the entire assembly. Currently the entire assembly is attatched with rivets. Does that sound right? I'm looking for advice on how to proceed if anyone can help. Thanks.
Need Help On H34 Spreader Light That's Out
- Thread starter Joe Mullee
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Snap Ring
There should be a snap ring around the housing holding the bulb in place, pry the ring out to replace the bulb.
There should be a snap ring around the housing holding the bulb in place, pry the ring out to replace the bulb.
Spreader lamps
Joe : The spreader lamp assembly on my 84H34 does not swivel so it sounds like your setup might be different. I can’t believe it would be necessary to remove rivets to replace the entire assembly when a bulb burns out. If possible look for a part number on the bulb, this might help you research the bulb mount. The spreader lamps on my boat are housed in a black plastic assembly that holds the lamps on the port and starboard lower spreaders. The front piece of the lamp assembly is removable by rotating it ¼ turn counter-clockwise. This is how the lamps are removed and replaced. I replaced both lamps on my boat with GE 4406 sealed beam lamps (35W PAR 36) this summer. On my boat the port and starboard spreader lamps are wired through the mast and through the mast tabernacle on separate circuits. There is one switch on the panel that controls both lamps so the lamps are connected in parallel somewhere between the tabernacle and the switch. Hope this helps. Tom
Joe : The spreader lamp assembly on my 84H34 does not swivel so it sounds like your setup might be different. I can’t believe it would be necessary to remove rivets to replace the entire assembly when a bulb burns out. If possible look for a part number on the bulb, this might help you research the bulb mount. The spreader lamps on my boat are housed in a black plastic assembly that holds the lamps on the port and starboard lower spreaders. The front piece of the lamp assembly is removable by rotating it ¼ turn counter-clockwise. This is how the lamps are removed and replaced. I replaced both lamps on my boat with GE 4406 sealed beam lamps (35W PAR 36) this summer. On my boat the port and starboard spreader lamps are wired through the mast and through the mast tabernacle on separate circuits. There is one switch on the panel that controls both lamps so the lamps are connected in parallel somewhere between the tabernacle and the switch. Hope this helps. Tom
Hey Joe, use voltmeter
next time you are up the mast trying to remove the bulb. With the starboard light on, remove the port bulb and put the meter probes on the bulb base to confirm (you hope) that you are getting power to the fixture. When something doesn't turn on, its either broken or not getting power. I always like to rule out the power/wiring issue in the trouble shooting process.
next time you are up the mast trying to remove the bulb. With the starboard light on, remove the port bulb and put the meter probes on the bulb base to confirm (you hope) that you are getting power to the fixture. When something doesn't turn on, its either broken or not getting power. I always like to rule out the power/wiring issue in the trouble shooting process.
Although there is a switch on the .....
panel the factory didn't install spreader lights so there is a lot of variation in wiring. When I removed a bad bulb there it was held in by a rubber/plastic retaining ring which broke up when removed, I installed the new bulb with 5200 rather than spend twenty nine bucks for a new fixture
panel the factory didn't install spreader lights so there is a lot of variation in wiring. When I removed a bad bulb there it was held in by a rubber/plastic retaining ring which broke up when removed, I installed the new bulb with 5200 rather than spend twenty nine bucks for a new fixture
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