I have a behind the mast furler, attached to a plate that my goose-neck attaches to. (photo attached). The goose-neck was removed for painting, and when i go to re-attach it today i was shocked to see that all the threads from the aluminium mast were still on the bolts! This leaves me with a bunch of bolts that just spin in their holes. Of course I'm going to drill & tap out to the next bolt size, but is there any way to prevent this from happening again? The old bolts are fine threaded stainless steel, should i get aluminium bolts insted? The plate is stainless steel too, so if i use aluminum bolts ill have to get some plastic washers to isolate them. Do you think the differential in strength of aluminium bolts will make a big difference? after all, the mast is aluminium...
need advise on gooseneck bracket bolts
- Thread starter Donald6441
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No Aluminum Bolts!!!!!!
Donald, I would never use aluminum bolts! You probably could not find them, which is a good thing. I don't know why they would not tread in except that they had frozen into the mast so that they had to be drilled out. Stainless bolts are the was to go. The problem is that stainless is more noble than aluminum in the chain of precious ( to me that is metal that don't corrode) metals. Yes, have the hole tapped to the next size. Then when installing the new bolts, coat them with antiseize compound. There are many types out there. Your electric supply house will sell something like NolOx or Noox, which protects the aluminum from the nobility of the Stainless. In the the auto world it is called anticease compound. No matter what you use it is to protect the aluminum from the nobility of stainless on the elements chart. If it was a problem, be glad you found it now! If you have any questions, feel free to ask again. r.w.landau
Donald, I would never use aluminum bolts! You probably could not find them, which is a good thing. I don't know why they would not tread in except that they had frozen into the mast so that they had to be drilled out. Stainless bolts are the was to go. The problem is that stainless is more noble than aluminum in the chain of precious ( to me that is metal that don't corrode) metals. Yes, have the hole tapped to the next size. Then when installing the new bolts, coat them with antiseize compound. There are many types out there. Your electric supply house will sell something like NolOx or Noox, which protects the aluminum from the nobility of the Stainless. In the the auto world it is called anticease compound. No matter what you use it is to protect the aluminum from the nobility of stainless on the elements chart. If it was a problem, be glad you found it now! If you have any questions, feel free to ask again. r.w.landau
Heli-Coil
Donald, When we did repair work on a spar we used something called Heli-Coil. It’s a thread insert made of stainless steel. You can repair the hole with that and use the original machine screws. For some things its worth using them from the start because they will freeze into the mast and leave the machine screws free to be removed. They also increase the holding power of screws because the spar sees a larger thread. Using larger machine screws might be a problem because you need to drill out the hardware and that might not leave enough metal in the fitting after drilling. Also be careful about using some types of never-seize. They contain copper and that’s a bad thing to have with aluminum and seawater. All the best, Robert Gainer
Donald, When we did repair work on a spar we used something called Heli-Coil. It’s a thread insert made of stainless steel. You can repair the hole with that and use the original machine screws. For some things its worth using them from the start because they will freeze into the mast and leave the machine screws free to be removed. They also increase the holding power of screws because the spar sees a larger thread. Using larger machine screws might be a problem because you need to drill out the hardware and that might not leave enough metal in the fitting after drilling. Also be careful about using some types of never-seize. They contain copper and that’s a bad thing to have with aluminum and seawater. All the best, Robert Gainer
Robert, they freeze to the mast due to disimilar
metals and corrosion. Why would you want a secondary thread if you can have a primary thread. Donald, if it is possible, up the size and protect the new connection, if not see Robert's post. The copper is a problem it is more noble than aluminum. r.w.landau
metals and corrosion. Why would you want a secondary thread if you can have a primary thread. Donald, if it is possible, up the size and protect the new connection, if not see Robert's post. The copper is a problem it is more noble than aluminum. r.w.landau
Copper dissolves aluminum
R.W. I use “secondary threads” because the original threads are damaged. I think that this is the point of his question because he has damaged threads. Most of the time it’s a bad idea to drill out fittings. They were designed with a certain size hole in mind and removing metal without thinking it out might weaken the fitting. Copper is more noble then aluminum and it dissolves the less noble aluminum. Almost the only thing less noble then aluminum is zinc and that’s used to protect all metals as in the zinc on your propeller shaft. Don’t use anything with copper near a mast unless the mast is made of wood. All the best, Robert Gainer
R.W. I use “secondary threads” because the original threads are damaged. I think that this is the point of his question because he has damaged threads. Most of the time it’s a bad idea to drill out fittings. They were designed with a certain size hole in mind and removing metal without thinking it out might weaken the fitting. Copper is more noble then aluminum and it dissolves the less noble aluminum. Almost the only thing less noble then aluminum is zinc and that’s used to protect all metals as in the zinc on your propeller shaft. Don’t use anything with copper near a mast unless the mast is made of wood. All the best, Robert Gainer
Robert, Look at the picture and tell me that
oversizing the bolt is a problem... I agree that copper is more noble but look at Stainless, it beats copper. It will make your mast rot faster. Thanks for the education. I did not know that some anticease/ nolox contained copper. That was excellent info! r.w.landau
oversizing the bolt is a problem... I agree that copper is more noble but look at Stainless, it beats copper. It will make your mast rot faster. Thanks for the education. I did not know that some anticease/ nolox contained copper. That was excellent info! r.w.landau
The thickness of the wall of the spar is such
that you can only get two or three threads in the metal. A better but more expensive option is rivet nuts. They have thread lengths equal to the diameter of the fastener. They require a special tool for insertion but they are permanent. Teflon plumbers pipe joint sealant is perhaps the best choice for sealing the threads on any fasteners.
that you can only get two or three threads in the metal. A better but more expensive option is rivet nuts. They have thread lengths equal to the diameter of the fastener. They require a special tool for insertion but they are permanent. Teflon plumbers pipe joint sealant is perhaps the best choice for sealing the threads on any fasteners.
Passive and active stainless
R.W. my copy of the galvanic series shows two types of stainless. One is passive and the other is active. One is very close to aluminum and the other is very close to copper in the list. Use the correct type of stainless and while it’s true you do have some corrosion it’s nothing like using the wrong type of stainless or copper. Using standard parts and keeping them standard instead of drilling out things has two advantages. First you can buy replacement parts and they fit and second you don’t have any possibility of wreaking a fitting and don’t need to worry about liability when you fix the screw instead of drilling someone’s carefully designed fittings. Sometimes you have no choice but we always looked to repair the simplest things first and save modifying parts for the tough jobs only. All the best, Robert Gainer
R.W. my copy of the galvanic series shows two types of stainless. One is passive and the other is active. One is very close to aluminum and the other is very close to copper in the list. Use the correct type of stainless and while it’s true you do have some corrosion it’s nothing like using the wrong type of stainless or copper. Using standard parts and keeping them standard instead of drilling out things has two advantages. First you can buy replacement parts and they fit and second you don’t have any possibility of wreaking a fitting and don’t need to worry about liability when you fix the screw instead of drilling someone’s carefully designed fittings. Sometimes you have no choice but we always looked to repair the simplest things first and save modifying parts for the tough jobs only. All the best, Robert Gainer
I see them used mostly in aircraft
Ross, I read about rivet nuts occasionally and see them used mostly in aircraft work. I don’t recall seeing them used in a mast. Why is that? Who makes them? Where can I get more information on them? Thanks, Robert Gainer
Ross, I read about rivet nuts occasionally and see them used mostly in aircraft work. I don’t recall seeing them used in a mast. Why is that? Who makes them? Where can I get more information on them? Thanks, Robert Gainer
McMaster-Carr
View catalog pages (4) Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs 426 products match your selections Material — Material/Finish comparison chart Material Type Steel 18-8 Stainless Steel Aluminum Neoprene/Brass Finish Plain Zinc-Plated Cadmium-Plated Tin-Plated PVC-Coated Self-Sealing Coated Type Knurled Rivet Nuts Nut is open at bottom, allowing the use of a longer screw or bolt if desired. Ideal for materials that are too thick to tap. Expands when installed, providing extra strength and increased resistance against spin and pullout. Knurled Rivet Nuts with Seal Includes a PVC foam seal bonded under the flange. Ideal for materials that are too thick to tap. Expands when installed, providing extra strength and increased resistance against spin and pullout. Closed-End Rivet Nuts Thread area is enclosed, which prevents leakage past the threads from either side of your application. Ideal for materials that are too think to tap. Expands when installed, providing extra strength and increased resistance against spin and pullout. Rivet Nuts Provides a thicker flange profile than knurled rivet nuts to resist push-through. Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts Also known as well nuts and well-nut threaded inserts, these flanged neoprene bushings have a brass insert and are great for fastening metal to plastic, dampening vibration, and sealing out moisture. Can be installed with a screwdriver - no special tools needed. Slotted-Body Rivet Nuts A larger backside flange increases strength, making these ideal for use in plastic and thin materials. They can accommodate a wider range of material thicknesses as well as slightly oversized holes. Screwdriver-Installed Rivet Nuts Also known as jack nuts, are ideal for thin, soft, and brittle materials, and can be easily installed with a screwdriver - no special tools needed. When tightened, the body collapses to form legs, which grip the inside of the mounting surface. Nut Inserts Can be installed into most any material that is 0.030" or thicker. Rivet-Type Studs An ideal alternative to weld-and-clinch studs. When installed, a backside flange resists pullout. Tools Insertion Tools for Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs: A wide range of tools for nut inserts, rivet nuts, and rivet-type studs, including torque-style tools, pneumatic tools, adjustable-stroke tools, plier-style tools, and more. System of Measurement Inch | Metric Thread Size 4-40 | 6-32 | 8-32 | 10-24 | 10-32 | 12-24 | 1/4"-20 | 1/4"-28 | 5/16"-18 | 5/16"-24 | 3/8"-16 | 3/8"-24 | 1/2"-13 | 1/2"-20 | M3 | M4 | M5 | M6 | M8 | M10 | M12 Metric Thread Pitch .5 mm | .7 mm | .8 mm | 1 mm | 1.25 mm | 1.5 mm | 1.75 mm For Material Thickness Range .010"-.075" | .010"-.080" | .010"-.165" | .010"-.180" | .015"-.111" | .015"-.156" | .015"-.192" | .015"-.437" | .015"-.643" | 1/64"-3/16" | .020"-.060" | .020"-.080" | .020"-.100" | .020"-.125" | .020"-.130" | .020"-.175" | .020"-.260" | .020"-.280" | .027"-.115" | .027"-.125" | .027"-.150" | .027"-.165" | .030" or thicker | .030"-.115" | .030"-.125" | .031"-.187" | .035"-.232" | .060"-.100" | .063"-.200" | .075"-.120" | .080"-.130" | .080"-.140" | .100"-.175" | .115"-.200" | .115"-.250" | .120"-.160" | .125"-.195" | .125"-.200" | .130"-.180" | .130"-.225" | .140"-.200" | .150"-.312" | .165"-.260" | .175"-.320" | 3/16"-3/8" | .200"-.260" | .200"-.350" | .250"-.457" | .280"-.500" | .312"-.643" | .350"-.500" | .375"-.607" | .25 mm-5 mm | .5 mm-2.0 mm | .5 mm-2.5 mm | .5 mm-3.0 mm | .5 mm-3.3 mm | .50 mm-7.10 mm | .7 mm-3.8 mm | .7 mm-3.0 mm | .7 mm-4.2 mm | 1.6 mm-5.1 mm | 2.0 mm-3.3 mm | 3.3 mm-5.7 mm | 3.8 mm-7.9 mm | 4.2 mm-6.6 mm | 5.1 mm-8.9 mm | 8.9 mm-12.7 mm Kits Cadmium-Plated Steel Inch Nut Inserts (300 Piece) Contains 50 each of sizes 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 1/4"-20, and 5/16"-18. Includes a nut insert tool, six mandrels and is furnished in a 13-1/2" Lg. x 10" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Cadmium-Plated Steel Inch Nut Inserts (50 Piece) Includes a nut insert tool, mandrels, and 50 inserts. Furnished in a 10" Lg. x 7" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Choose from 5/16"-18 and 3/8"-16 thread sizes. Cadmium-Plated Steel Inch Nut Inserts (100 Piece) Includes a nut insert tool, mandrels, and 100 inserts. Furnished in a 10" Lg. x 7" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Choose from 8-32, 10-32, and 1/4"-20 thread sizes. Cadmium-Plated Steel Metric Nut Inserts (225 Piece) Contains 50 each of sizes M3, M4, M5, and M6, and 25 each of size M8. Includes a nut insert tool, five mandrels and is furnished in a 13-1/2" Lg. x 10" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Zinc-Plated Steel Inch Knurled Rivet Nuts (50 Piece) Includes 12 each 8-32, 10-24, and 10-32 nuts, and 14 each 1/4"-20 nuts. Also includes three nosepieces, four mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a plastic case. Zinc-Plated Steel Metric Knurled Rivet Nuts (50 Piece) Includes 12 each 4 mm nuts, 24 each 5 mm nuts, and 14 each 6 mm nuts. Also includes two nosepieces, three mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a plastic case. Aluminum and Steel Inch Rivet Nuts (103 Piece) Includes 25 each 6-32 and 20 each 1/4"-20 aluminum nuts; 25 each of 8-32, 10-24 and 8 each of 1/4"-20 steel nuts; also includes three nosepieces, four mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 13-1/2" Lg. x 7-1/4" Wd. x 2" Dp. plastic case. Aluminum Inch Rivet Nuts (200 Piece) Includes 80 each 8-32 and 120 10-32 nuts. Also includes two nosepieces with mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 12-1/2" Lg. x 8-1/2" Wd. x 1-7/8" Dp. plastic case. Aluminum Metric Rivet Nuts (200 Piece) Includes 120 each M4 and 80 each M5 nuts. Also includes two nosepieces with mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 12-1/2" Lg. x 8-1/2" Wd x 1-7/8" Dp. plastic case. Zinc-Plated Metric Rivet Nuts (200 Piece) Includes 120 each M4 and 80 each M5 nuts. Also includes two nosepieces with mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 12-1/2" Lg. x 8-1/2" Wd x 1-7/8" Dp. plastic case. Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts (115 Piece) Includes 40 each 8-32, 40 each 10-32 nuts, and 35 each 1/4"-20 nuts. This is a copy and paste of the first page.
View catalog pages (4) Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs 426 products match your selections Material — Material/Finish comparison chart Material Type Steel 18-8 Stainless Steel Aluminum Neoprene/Brass Finish Plain Zinc-Plated Cadmium-Plated Tin-Plated PVC-Coated Self-Sealing Coated Type Knurled Rivet Nuts Nut is open at bottom, allowing the use of a longer screw or bolt if desired. Ideal for materials that are too thick to tap. Expands when installed, providing extra strength and increased resistance against spin and pullout. Knurled Rivet Nuts with Seal Includes a PVC foam seal bonded under the flange. Ideal for materials that are too thick to tap. Expands when installed, providing extra strength and increased resistance against spin and pullout. Closed-End Rivet Nuts Thread area is enclosed, which prevents leakage past the threads from either side of your application. Ideal for materials that are too think to tap. Expands when installed, providing extra strength and increased resistance against spin and pullout. Rivet Nuts Provides a thicker flange profile than knurled rivet nuts to resist push-through. Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts Also known as well nuts and well-nut threaded inserts, these flanged neoprene bushings have a brass insert and are great for fastening metal to plastic, dampening vibration, and sealing out moisture. Can be installed with a screwdriver - no special tools needed. Slotted-Body Rivet Nuts A larger backside flange increases strength, making these ideal for use in plastic and thin materials. They can accommodate a wider range of material thicknesses as well as slightly oversized holes. Screwdriver-Installed Rivet Nuts Also known as jack nuts, are ideal for thin, soft, and brittle materials, and can be easily installed with a screwdriver - no special tools needed. When tightened, the body collapses to form legs, which grip the inside of the mounting surface. Nut Inserts Can be installed into most any material that is 0.030" or thicker. Rivet-Type Studs An ideal alternative to weld-and-clinch studs. When installed, a backside flange resists pullout. Tools Insertion Tools for Nut Inserts, Rivet Nuts, and Rivet-Type Studs: A wide range of tools for nut inserts, rivet nuts, and rivet-type studs, including torque-style tools, pneumatic tools, adjustable-stroke tools, plier-style tools, and more. System of Measurement Inch | Metric Thread Size 4-40 | 6-32 | 8-32 | 10-24 | 10-32 | 12-24 | 1/4"-20 | 1/4"-28 | 5/16"-18 | 5/16"-24 | 3/8"-16 | 3/8"-24 | 1/2"-13 | 1/2"-20 | M3 | M4 | M5 | M6 | M8 | M10 | M12 Metric Thread Pitch .5 mm | .7 mm | .8 mm | 1 mm | 1.25 mm | 1.5 mm | 1.75 mm For Material Thickness Range .010"-.075" | .010"-.080" | .010"-.165" | .010"-.180" | .015"-.111" | .015"-.156" | .015"-.192" | .015"-.437" | .015"-.643" | 1/64"-3/16" | .020"-.060" | .020"-.080" | .020"-.100" | .020"-.125" | .020"-.130" | .020"-.175" | .020"-.260" | .020"-.280" | .027"-.115" | .027"-.125" | .027"-.150" | .027"-.165" | .030" or thicker | .030"-.115" | .030"-.125" | .031"-.187" | .035"-.232" | .060"-.100" | .063"-.200" | .075"-.120" | .080"-.130" | .080"-.140" | .100"-.175" | .115"-.200" | .115"-.250" | .120"-.160" | .125"-.195" | .125"-.200" | .130"-.180" | .130"-.225" | .140"-.200" | .150"-.312" | .165"-.260" | .175"-.320" | 3/16"-3/8" | .200"-.260" | .200"-.350" | .250"-.457" | .280"-.500" | .312"-.643" | .350"-.500" | .375"-.607" | .25 mm-5 mm | .5 mm-2.0 mm | .5 mm-2.5 mm | .5 mm-3.0 mm | .5 mm-3.3 mm | .50 mm-7.10 mm | .7 mm-3.8 mm | .7 mm-3.0 mm | .7 mm-4.2 mm | 1.6 mm-5.1 mm | 2.0 mm-3.3 mm | 3.3 mm-5.7 mm | 3.8 mm-7.9 mm | 4.2 mm-6.6 mm | 5.1 mm-8.9 mm | 8.9 mm-12.7 mm Kits Cadmium-Plated Steel Inch Nut Inserts (300 Piece) Contains 50 each of sizes 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 1/4"-20, and 5/16"-18. Includes a nut insert tool, six mandrels and is furnished in a 13-1/2" Lg. x 10" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Cadmium-Plated Steel Inch Nut Inserts (50 Piece) Includes a nut insert tool, mandrels, and 50 inserts. Furnished in a 10" Lg. x 7" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Choose from 5/16"-18 and 3/8"-16 thread sizes. Cadmium-Plated Steel Inch Nut Inserts (100 Piece) Includes a nut insert tool, mandrels, and 100 inserts. Furnished in a 10" Lg. x 7" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Choose from 8-32, 10-32, and 1/4"-20 thread sizes. Cadmium-Plated Steel Metric Nut Inserts (225 Piece) Contains 50 each of sizes M3, M4, M5, and M6, and 25 each of size M8. Includes a nut insert tool, five mandrels and is furnished in a 13-1/2" Lg. x 10" Wd. X 2" Dp. plastic case. Zinc-Plated Steel Inch Knurled Rivet Nuts (50 Piece) Includes 12 each 8-32, 10-24, and 10-32 nuts, and 14 each 1/4"-20 nuts. Also includes three nosepieces, four mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a plastic case. Zinc-Plated Steel Metric Knurled Rivet Nuts (50 Piece) Includes 12 each 4 mm nuts, 24 each 5 mm nuts, and 14 each 6 mm nuts. Also includes two nosepieces, three mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a plastic case. Aluminum and Steel Inch Rivet Nuts (103 Piece) Includes 25 each 6-32 and 20 each 1/4"-20 aluminum nuts; 25 each of 8-32, 10-24 and 8 each of 1/4"-20 steel nuts; also includes three nosepieces, four mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 13-1/2" Lg. x 7-1/4" Wd. x 2" Dp. plastic case. Aluminum Inch Rivet Nuts (200 Piece) Includes 80 each 8-32 and 120 10-32 nuts. Also includes two nosepieces with mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 12-1/2" Lg. x 8-1/2" Wd. x 1-7/8" Dp. plastic case. Aluminum Metric Rivet Nuts (200 Piece) Includes 120 each M4 and 80 each M5 nuts. Also includes two nosepieces with mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 12-1/2" Lg. x 8-1/2" Wd x 1-7/8" Dp. plastic case. Zinc-Plated Metric Rivet Nuts (200 Piece) Includes 120 each M4 and 80 each M5 nuts. Also includes two nosepieces with mandrels, and a plier-style installation tool. Furnished in a 12-1/2" Lg. x 8-1/2" Wd x 1-7/8" Dp. plastic case. Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts (115 Piece) Includes 40 each 8-32, 40 each 10-32 nuts, and 35 each 1/4"-20 nuts. This is a copy and paste of the first page.
Look at the bolts, that is why there are so many
bolts. How often is a part like this need to be replaced? They don't. I think you are pressing the issue and we are talking about a fix for this situation. Donald, I would drill out the boom connection and over size the hole then retap the mast for the next size screw/bolt. I would anti cease (with out copper) on the threads of the new bolts. This is would be over kill because the connection would gain strength with the oversized fine thread bolts. r.w.landau
bolts. How often is a part like this need to be replaced? They don't. I think you are pressing the issue and we are talking about a fix for this situation. Donald, I would drill out the boom connection and over size the hole then retap the mast for the next size screw/bolt. I would anti cease (with out copper) on the threads of the new bolts. This is would be over kill because the connection would gain strength with the oversized fine thread bolts. r.w.landau
Ross, You are right, a standard thread
would be better than a fine thread with out the extra chance of a galled connection. The over sized screw/bolt is still not a problem. r.w.landau
would be better than a fine thread with out the extra chance of a galled connection. The over sized screw/bolt is still not a problem. r.w.landau
UNC or UNF
More then one way to skin a cat is what they say or because we are talking about boats should I say, different long splices, different ships. As I said we made it a practice to avoid modifying fittings even if some could be modified without risk. I think the simplest repair is always the best and tapping a hole in aluminum is much easer then drilling out a hole in stainless but you can do anything you want. I see that you recommend UNF threads. I wonder if the deeper coarser thread in the UNC series has advantages in aluminum. We always used the coarser thread such as 1/4-20 instead of 1/4-28. Never looked into it and it’s just what I was taught when I started out building spars. As you said in another post no point in wasting time trying to change the others mind. After working on boats for 35 years I am just too set in my ways to change. All the best, Robert Gainer
More then one way to skin a cat is what they say or because we are talking about boats should I say, different long splices, different ships. As I said we made it a practice to avoid modifying fittings even if some could be modified without risk. I think the simplest repair is always the best and tapping a hole in aluminum is much easer then drilling out a hole in stainless but you can do anything you want. I see that you recommend UNF threads. I wonder if the deeper coarser thread in the UNC series has advantages in aluminum. We always used the coarser thread such as 1/4-20 instead of 1/4-28. Never looked into it and it’s just what I was taught when I started out building spars. As you said in another post no point in wasting time trying to change the others mind. After working on boats for 35 years I am just too set in my ways to change. All the best, Robert Gainer
Robert, the point here is to provide Donald
with info to repair his problem. Don't fight me, explain your ideas to Donald the creator of this post. Post a whole solution not pieces of a post,or arguements/discussions. The idea is to help the poster with the info they need. We all get off track but we need to focus on the person asking the question. r.w.landau
with info to repair his problem. Don't fight me, explain your ideas to Donald the creator of this post. Post a whole solution not pieces of a post,or arguements/discussions. The idea is to help the poster with the info they need. We all get off track but we need to focus on the person asking the question. r.w.landau
Sorry if my tone was inappropriate
R.W. I did post a solution based on what I have done in the past for similar problems and was discussing your alternate solution. Sorry if you think I was arguing with you. I might disagree with some of your ideas but as I said there is more then one answer and you have a right to discuss your recommended method. I am also sorry if my tone was inappropriate or my post was misleading or incomplete but writing is not the business I am in. All the best, Robert Gainer
R.W. I did post a solution based on what I have done in the past for similar problems and was discussing your alternate solution. Sorry if you think I was arguing with you. I might disagree with some of your ideas but as I said there is more then one answer and you have a right to discuss your recommended method. I am also sorry if my tone was inappropriate or my post was misleading or incomplete but writing is not the business I am in. All the best, Robert Gainer
Robert I think your ideas are valid.
I think the major point is to get Donald back in business with a good fix with what he has. I apologize if I questioned your intent. Lets get Donald safely and economically back on the water. r.w.landau
I think the major point is to get Donald back in business with a good fix with what he has. I apologize if I questioned your intent. Lets get Donald safely and economically back on the water. r.w.landau
Rick, Those rivits look like they would be 1/4
or bigger. That is tough to do with a rivit...That I know of. I also think that since it is dispersing the load of the main furler that it should be a screw/bolt with a solid cross section for shear. r.w.landau
or bigger. That is tough to do with a rivit...That I know of. I also think that since it is dispersing the load of the main furler that it should be a screw/bolt with a solid cross section for shear. r.w.landau
Donald, If you decide to drill stainless....
New sharp bit and drill slow, real slow. If you try to overcome stainless, it will beat you. Drill slow, it takes stainless by surprize. Rotation at a time. r.w.landau
New sharp bit and drill slow, real slow. If you try to overcome stainless, it will beat you. Drill slow, it takes stainless by surprize. Rotation at a time. r.w.landau
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