Need advice on rebedding tabernacle

[sinnettc]

I have a bit of a leak under the tabernacle on my Capri 22 so I'll be pulling it off and rebedding it before spring. Not sure if Catalina used 4200 or 5200, but whatever it is will have to go. I've used butyl for stanchions with good results so I'm wondering if it's appropriate for this application too?

 

[Ken]

I found Catalina used silicone on my boat, when I rebeded I used 4200. Never use 5200 unless you want it to stay there forever.

 

[RON20406]

I have a bit of a leak under the tabernacle on my Capri 22 so I'll be pulling it off and rebedding it before spring. Not sure if Catalina used 4200 or 5200, but whatever it is will have to go. I've used butyl for stanchions with good results so I'm wondering if it's appropriate for this application too?

Chris, any of the bedding compounds would be fine, but there are some other considerations that are more important. When you remove the tabernacle, is it fair or distorted underneath? Most older boats and some newer ones will distort, by compression, the core material. This must be repaired before reseating the tabernacle. Is there any delamination or rot underneath? You mentioned there was a leak. This also must be fixed. And finally, when everything is solid, I would recommend using 1/8 or 3/16 plumbers gasket cut slight smaller than the base of the tabernacle and coated on each side with your choice of bedding compound. This will act to prevent aggresive flexing of the fiberglass underneath and will have no negative effect once you step your mast and tune the rig. Hope this helps. Best, Ron

 

[kenn]

Assuming you have a solid base as discussed above, I would rebed the tabernacle using butyl. (the gasket idea is also a good one)

In fact that's a job I have to do this fall or next spring.

 

[sinnettc]

I found Catalina used silicone on my boat, when I rebeded I used 4200. Never use 5200 unless you want it to stay there forever.

That's what they used on the deck receptacle for the mast lights, or at least there was a big glob on the bottom of the whole setup. It was a pain to get it off so I could replace the receptacle.

 

[sinnettc]

I don't think there's any deformation under the tabernacle but I'll keep that in mind. The plumber's gasket and butyl seems like a good combination.

 

[CaptDon01]

Chris,

I re-bedded the tabertackle on our Capri-18. Both the 18 and the 22 share many parts, and construction methods. Once the tabernackle was removed, I cleaned out ther holes real good, and undercut inside with my dremel tool. I then taped up the two holes from the bottom and poured in WEST slow cure epoxy that was slightly thickened with their high strength powder mixed in. I was surprized to find there were voides between the cabin top and the linner. I let is flow in and kept filling until the void was evidently gone. I would use a tooth pick to help work out air bubbles that come to the surface. Once the voids were filled, and the epoxy cured, I re-drilled the holes and sealed it with 3M 4200. This way if she ever leaks again, any water will go straight thru and not into the core. I almost forgot, this is a good time to remove the deck wiring and pull the wiring back into the cabin, and seal this area the same way and re-drill to route the wires back up to the cabin top. This will give you a solid base that won't compress again. Our Capri-18 had the two stainless steel compression posts, as I believe the Capri-22 also has, so I assume the construction is the same, or similar.

Don

 

[sinnettc]

Hi Don,

A new cordless dremel is on the top of my Xmas list and I'll be filling/redrilling all the holes I can get to - the tabernacle and stanchions are on my critical list. I may give removing the chainplates another try too; I couldn't get them out of the deck this summer.

I sealed the core around the wiring when I had to replace the mast plug and the deck connector before our San Juans trip, so that should be good.

Incidentally, we have the Capri 22 Mk II which has a single compression post smack in the middle of the v-berth companionway instead of a pair by the bulkheads like the original Capri 22. Mixed blessing - I think it's stronger with the central post but it means you have to be a contortionist to get into the v-berth.

Thanks!

Chris