Near disaster because of weeds on anchor!

[DayDream2]

Sailing friends,

I was caught in a situation last week where my anchor had so many weeds (Great Lakes) that when I tried to bring it up, the fuse for the windlass kept popping, forcing me to run the length of the boat and keep resetting the fuse at the control center below. It took four tries to get it near the surface. When it came up, there were more weeds than I've ever seen, tangled and wrapped so badly that it took 25 minutes to get them all off.

In the meantime, the wind was pushing us ashore and we barely escaped a bad ending.

Has anyone seen a knife on a stick for cutting weeds?

 

[Rich Stidger]

I have never used this hook knife on weeds but it is perfect for cutting lines wrapped on my prop. And also abandoned lines caught on my anchor chain. It comes with a short handle but it can be attached to any Shurhold handle to get additional length.

 

[nat55]

The poles from Swobbit also fit the knife.....
https://www.swobbit.com/cleaning-extension-poles/

 

[gettinthere]

I installed a breaker in the chain locker that is slightly lower than the main breaker.
Is there adequate gauge wire to carry the loads without voltage drop?
Were you trying to pull the anchor out of the weeds via the windlass or was this tripping from raising it to the surface? When well hooked, you should use the engine to break the anchor free. Motor up to the anchor so the chain is vertical, lock the chain down and then motor forward and around to break the anchor free. Then haul it up.

 

[DayDream2]

I installed a breaker in the chain locker that is slightly lower than the main breaker.
Is there adequate gauge wire to carry the loads without voltage drop?
Were you trying to pull the anchor out of the weeds via the windlass or was this tripping from raising it to the surface? When well hooked, you should use the engine to break the anchor free. Motor up to the anchor so the chain is vertical, lock the chain down and then motor forward and around to break the anchor free. Then haul it up.

I've thought about moving the breaker to the chain locker since it has tripped too many times before. I need to check the resettable fuse specs against the documentation. There is very heavy gauge wire to the windlass. I agree with your methodology of not using the windlass to break the anchor free. This time it might have tripped because of the weight of the anchor and weeds. Of course I'm not sure because the threat level was very high, wind blowing 25 kts and gusting higher, on a lee shore. So it's possible it was still locked into the bottom, one of the four times I popped the fuse! Plus the boat was sailing back and forth. And I had just dove on the prop 10x to free the line that I'd run over that was towing the dinghy (did I mention that?) Pretty exciting day! And somehow the boat and crew were unharmed. For that I'm extremely grateful.

 

[jssailem]

@DayDream2 You give us the info about the boat (Hunter 420), but no mention the type of windlass you have. There are many manufacturers, models and sizes. These are often (maybe always) after market installs. If like some buyers that spend a sizeable stack of boat bucks to buy the boat the kitty can be a bit small and the windlass chosen may be under sized. Ready and capable to handle the easy anchor, but under-powered to handle the anchor + weed ball + chain + rode. Add to this the copper wire from the battery to the windlass is undersized (again sticker shock when buying 40 feet of AWG 0 Copper wire and fittings) and you have the recipe for a breaker that keeps popping and a boater running back and forth the length of his boat.

Yachting Monthly has a good overview. https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/videos/anchor-windlass-test-video-and-expert-advice-2670

Practical Sailor has run a number of test comparisons. Sure helped me select my windlass. I based it not on the minimal but on 1.5 to 2 times plus the recommended system. I do not want to be running back and forth resetting the breaker because I am hauling up the anchor, rode, chain and an abandon crab trap stuck on the end. Just ask Les...(@LeslieTroyer )

 

[LeslieTroyer]

A battery at the bow can help with the voltage drop that causes lots of heat

Les

 

[SG]

What type of anchor is really setting in those weeds?
What chain and how long? You don't Want to be cutting blind with a knife and a nylon rode.
The comment above about motoring up, then taking up the slack, then breaking the anchor free with the engine is right on.

You need to have the engine running and at enough rpm's to keep your voltage up, in idle of course. 1800 rpm, then maybe tool back down to 1500. The power to the windlass is essential. Don't use the windlass without the engine running to retrieve the anchor!

Your wire to and from the bow can be sized "right", but corroded. Our it might be, as others asked other issues. You are in fresh water, so if it is marine grade, tinned wire that was sized right, that's less likely, but still...

 

[gettinthere]

About wire size; the install manual for mine called for 4 ga. I checked with our resident expert and he insisted on 00! The windlass is one place you want zero voltage drop. I'd bet if it was a factory install, they went with manufacturer recommendations and saved bigly, at your expense.