I've heard all kinds of suggestions but thought I'd put it out to the masses - what's the best way to remove a name (decal) from a fibreglass hull?
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agree
I agree. hair dryer and fingernails...or carefully using a straight edge razor..CAREFULLY. The heat makes it a snap. pmj
I agree. hair dryer and fingernails...or carefully using a straight edge razor..CAREFULLY. The heat makes it a snap. pmj
As stated, a hair dryer or heat gun and patience. Work a portion at a time, keeping the heat moving about 6-8" away. Peel slowly. Move the heat away to another area to start pre-heating as you peel. It doesn't have to be real hot to peel; just warm enough to heat the glue or vinyl to release it's hold.It's always trial and error in every circumstance anyway due to different materials and aging etc.. Good luck.
Could not peel them with hot air.
We tried to remove the stripes on the cabin that were COOKED on. They were cracked (but not peeling). I tried the heat gun and hair dryers to no avail. Our next try with the "Eraser". This removed the vinyl in just a few minutes. Wiped down the area with a Acetone rag and it was DONE! Remember, it will probably be yellowed under the vinyl. Just leave it alone and it will fade. If you try to remove it you may end up with scratched gel coat.
We tried to remove the stripes on the cabin that were COOKED on. They were cracked (but not peeling). I tried the heat gun and hair dryers to no avail. Our next try with the "Eraser". This removed the vinyl in just a few minutes. Wiped down the area with a Acetone rag and it was DONE! Remember, it will probably be yellowed under the vinyl. Just leave it alone and it will fade. If you try to remove it you may end up with scratched gel coat.
Vinyl removal
Steve, Glad the Eraser worked for you. The gelcoat under the vinyl shouldn't be yellowed since it was covered and protected from the sun and weather. It should be a close representation of the original color and gloss of the boat. Also, a better solvent to use would be 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover which is toluene based instead of Acetone. Acetone can soften and attack as well as discolor gelcoat when used to long on one area.
Steve, Glad the Eraser worked for you. The gelcoat under the vinyl shouldn't be yellowed since it was covered and protected from the sun and weather. It should be a close representation of the original color and gloss of the boat. Also, a better solvent to use would be 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover which is toluene based instead of Acetone. Acetone can soften and attack as well as discolor gelcoat when used to long on one area.
Not my experience.
Gerry: I have used acetone for many years on fiberglass without out any ill effects. I only use a very small amount applied to a rag. I would not disagree with you that a toluene based solvent may be a better choice. It is just based on what we generally have on hand. I may try some of the 3M product for some future project that I need to do, thanks for the tip. As far as the yellowing that is generally what I have found with paint and vinyl. Granted there is always better gloss from the gel coat that has been protected, but it has alway been yellowish. I think if you look at many of the posts (including some recent ones) you will find that is what most boat owners find. The Eraser seems to work better and quicker on old cracked vinyl v.s. newer/thicker material. My experience with the hot air methods has not been very positive. It may be that my boat was mfg. in 1985 and the adhesives have lost and elasticity that they may have had.
Gerry: I have used acetone for many years on fiberglass without out any ill effects. I only use a very small amount applied to a rag. I would not disagree with you that a toluene based solvent may be a better choice. It is just based on what we generally have on hand. I may try some of the 3M product for some future project that I need to do, thanks for the tip. As far as the yellowing that is generally what I have found with paint and vinyl. Granted there is always better gloss from the gel coat that has been protected, but it has alway been yellowish. I think if you look at many of the posts (including some recent ones) you will find that is what most boat owners find. The Eraser seems to work better and quicker on old cracked vinyl v.s. newer/thicker material. My experience with the hot air methods has not been very positive. It may be that my boat was mfg. in 1985 and the adhesives have lost and elasticity that they may have had.
sanding, the only way
Having done this numerous times at the boat yard i'll give you the following. The only real way to remove the name so it is never seen again is to SAND! Yes i know that awful word. However, it doesn't take much, 400 grit at first, then up to 600. Then I use an Aqua-Buff polishing system, 1000 first and then 2000. You will never even know the name existed. If your going to do it, and want it done right, that is the way to do it.
Having done this numerous times at the boat yard i'll give you the following. The only real way to remove the name so it is never seen again is to SAND! Yes i know that awful word. However, it doesn't take much, 400 grit at first, then up to 600. Then I use an Aqua-Buff polishing system, 1000 first and then 2000. You will never even know the name existed. If your going to do it, and want it done right, that is the way to do it.
Eraser works
You can get the eraser at auto body supply stores. It is a about a 3 inch red rubber wheel with a center bolt to chuck in your drill. I had a lot of decals to remove, plus I replaced all the stripes on my 42. It took a couple of wheels to get it all done but it takes off the decal and the glue.
You can get the eraser at auto body supply stores. It is a about a 3 inch red rubber wheel with a center bolt to chuck in your drill. I had a lot of decals to remove, plus I replaced all the stripes on my 42. It took a couple of wheels to get it all done but it takes off the decal and the glue.
Sanding away gel coat.
The name will fade with time. I would not sand unless this is a last resort. I had our name painted on our boat for about 13 years. We removed the paint with Oven-off. Of course it left the proverbial outline of the name. After a few months we applied the new vinyl and you can no longer see any outline. When you sand (regardless of the method) you are removing gel coat. It is your boat, so do whatever you think is prudent.
The name will fade with time. I would not sand unless this is a last resort. I had our name painted on our boat for about 13 years. We removed the paint with Oven-off. Of course it left the proverbial outline of the name. After a few months we applied the new vinyl and you can no longer see any outline. When you sand (regardless of the method) you are removing gel coat. It is your boat, so do whatever you think is prudent.
yes sanding removes gelcoat, but..
Gelcoat is so thick it's going to take ALOT to sand through it. I have sanded and compounded some customers hulls 4x's with no ill effects or fading or "sanding through". Gelcoat is VERY thick compared to most paints.
Gelcoat is so thick it's going to take ALOT to sand through it. I have sanded and compounded some customers hulls 4x's with no ill effects or fading or "sanding through". Gelcoat is VERY thick compared to most paints.
Steve, Glad your experiences have been different than mine over the last 12 years. I also use acetone on many projects but just wanted to pass on to the less informed some potential problems with its use. I suppose that when I've worked on so many different boats over the years I'd run across many different circumstances and results. Yes sanding does remove gelcoat, but some times it just has to be done to please an owner. In those cases I do it wet; 600 to 1200 grit, then compound and buff to 2000, seal and wax. Also, as jr stated, gelcoat is much thicker than paint. Typically, when gelcoat is sprayed into a mold, it is done in three cross passes at 7 mils each, horizontally, vertically and diagonally for a finished thickness of 21 mils. Now , this all depends on the application tech.. If he's conscientious then it should be pretty uniform, but even then there are areas that can be difficult to reach so that at times some areas may be thicker or thinner. Many times I've started a small repair that turned into a larger repair because almost immediately surrounding gelcoat was sanded through due to insufficient thickness. Therefore, I'd say that unless you're willing to do more work than you thought you had to do I'd leave sanding as a last resort.
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