What technique do you use to make sure your anchor is set? Do you back down on it with an engine, give it a couple tugs, or figure it's good enough and head for shore? Do you have your own special method of getting it securely in the ground? Have you always planted the hook successfully... or have you endured some exciting nights? Share your anchoring stories here, then vote in the Quick Quiz at the bottom of the home page. (Quiz contributed by Tom Schlagel)
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Brent Headberg
Re: Anchor Duty
I suppose my technique for making sure my anchor is set properly is only for Southern latitudes...most of the time I dive my anchor in after easing it over the bow. A recent trip to the Bahamas last May paid off by diving in 2 anchors at Pensacola Cay. We had heard about a low pressure area on the VHF that was coming our way, so we tucked into the little cove on the West end of the cay for protection. The bottom was grassy and silty, but shallow enough to dig the anchors in deep. Just before dawn I was awakened by a light rain and as I was making the first cup of coffee, it deterioated rapidly into a major squall, blowing right into the mouth of the cove we thought would give us some protection. I flipped on the instruments, donned the fowl weather gear and stood at the helm watching the wind speed increase to 40 knots. My anchors were holding, but I still had that little note in the Abaco Guide about this anchorage..."bottom has pour holding". The wind and rain came thru like a mini hurricane that morning, and just 15 yards behind our stern were some very ragged coral rocks exposed from the low tide line up into the sandy beach. I thought several times we were going to break loose and blow up on those rocks, but my diving the evening before had set the anchors deep enough into the grassy silt held us safe. Finally the storm blew on through and by 8am, we weighed anchor and headed out for our final leg to Green Turtle Cay. Now I know why the double anchor system is called the Bahama Style anchor set. I'll always use this technique and dive my anchors when ever possible. It saved my boat from sure doom that stormy morning in the Abacos.
I suppose my technique for making sure my anchor is set properly is only for Southern latitudes...most of the time I dive my anchor in after easing it over the bow. A recent trip to the Bahamas last May paid off by diving in 2 anchors at Pensacola Cay. We had heard about a low pressure area on the VHF that was coming our way, so we tucked into the little cove on the West end of the cay for protection. The bottom was grassy and silty, but shallow enough to dig the anchors in deep. Just before dawn I was awakened by a light rain and as I was making the first cup of coffee, it deterioated rapidly into a major squall, blowing right into the mouth of the cove we thought would give us some protection. I flipped on the instruments, donned the fowl weather gear and stood at the helm watching the wind speed increase to 40 knots. My anchors were holding, but I still had that little note in the Abaco Guide about this anchorage..."bottom has pour holding". The wind and rain came thru like a mini hurricane that morning, and just 15 yards behind our stern were some very ragged coral rocks exposed from the low tide line up into the sandy beach. I thought several times we were going to break loose and blow up on those rocks, but my diving the evening before had set the anchors deep enough into the grassy silt held us safe. Finally the storm blew on through and by 8am, we weighed anchor and headed out for our final leg to Green Turtle Cay. Now I know why the double anchor system is called the Bahama Style anchor set. I'll always use this technique and dive my anchors when ever possible. It saved my boat from sure doom that stormy morning in the Abacos.
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Paul
Drift Down, Back Down
I like to set the anchor "naturally" without any help from the engine. Then, I do my best to pull it out with the engine, backing a good 45-60 seconds at 2500 rpm. It bugs everyone else, but it makes me feel good! Paul sv Escape Artist h336
I like to set the anchor "naturally" without any help from the engine. Then, I do my best to pull it out with the engine, backing a good 45-60 seconds at 2500 rpm. It bugs everyone else, but it makes me feel good! Paul sv Escape Artist h336
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Rob Morton
Anchoring
We usually drop the hook under sail and when we swing around this is a fairly good test if we are just stopping for a couple of hours to swim or to make some lunch. If we are going to be spending the night we usually test it with the motor. Like Paul said it bugs some people but it makes me feel better that it is going to hold. I usually get up once during the night to check to make sure its holding. We sail on inland waters so we don't have to worry about tides or such, sometimes just a little bit of wind. The lakes where we sail are mostly mud bottoms so they hold good. Rob h23.5 Euphoria
We usually drop the hook under sail and when we swing around this is a fairly good test if we are just stopping for a couple of hours to swim or to make some lunch. If we are going to be spending the night we usually test it with the motor. Like Paul said it bugs some people but it makes me feel better that it is going to hold. I usually get up once during the night to check to make sure its holding. We sail on inland waters so we don't have to worry about tides or such, sometimes just a little bit of wind. The lakes where we sail are mostly mud bottoms so they hold good. Rob h23.5 Euphoria
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Steve Weinstein
With the anchor ready to let go (no windless)
I visually pick my spot and approach from the downwind side at low idle so I can come to a dead stop at the spot. Then I go the the bow and as the boat starts to back down I drop the hook and pay out at least 5:1 scope in my hand 'till I feel a set. Then I let out some more scope and drop the engine into reverse to make sure of the set. Once I'm confident of a strong set then I send an anchor sentinel down the road 'till it hit's bottom. I then haul the sentinel back up about 5' from the bottom and tie it off. Then it's off for umbrella drinks!
I visually pick my spot and approach from the downwind side at low idle so I can come to a dead stop at the spot. Then I go the the bow and as the boat starts to back down I drop the hook and pay out at least 5:1 scope in my hand 'till I feel a set. Then I let out some more scope and drop the engine into reverse to make sure of the set. Once I'm confident of a strong set then I send an anchor sentinel down the road 'till it hit's bottom. I then haul the sentinel back up about 5' from the bottom and tie it off. Then it's off for umbrella drinks!
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Peter Siemens
Anchoring
We drop the anchor and wait about 3 minutes for it to settle down. Then we reverse the engine which is a Yanmar 36 HP at about 3000RPM and if it holds we settle in for the nite. We have never had to get up and check the anchor or worry even in storms after this process. Cheers and great sailing.
We drop the anchor and wait about 3 minutes for it to settle down. Then we reverse the engine which is a Yanmar 36 HP at about 3000RPM and if it holds we settle in for the nite. We have never had to get up and check the anchor or worry even in storms after this process. Cheers and great sailing.
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JackK
Anchoring at 35 knot wind & wave
After sailing many years both at sea and lakes, we always carry 2 anchors. For a day stay at the beach, we throw 1 anchor (anchor, 10 feet later a weight to keep it digging, then the necessary length of line). We back-up on sail or engine until the anchor is solid. For overnight mooring, we set 2 anchors at 45 degrees from the bow. This mooring held last week-end, with 25 knot wind gusting 35 and waves. The storm lasted 2 days. This set-up prevents the boat from riding on waves left and right, and working itself out of the anchorage. The waves sunk the neighboring bass boat and beached a 16 ft daysailer, complete with chain, anchor and cement block.
After sailing many years both at sea and lakes, we always carry 2 anchors. For a day stay at the beach, we throw 1 anchor (anchor, 10 feet later a weight to keep it digging, then the necessary length of line). We back-up on sail or engine until the anchor is solid. For overnight mooring, we set 2 anchors at 45 degrees from the bow. This mooring held last week-end, with 25 knot wind gusting 35 and waves. The storm lasted 2 days. This set-up prevents the boat from riding on waves left and right, and working itself out of the anchorage. The waves sunk the neighboring bass boat and beached a 16 ft daysailer, complete with chain, anchor and cement block.
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Captain Kimo
"Snubbing" road while backing down
After confirming the forward motion of the boat has stopped (bubbles in the water by the boat stop astern), I drop the anchor to the depth of the water or all the chain + (26'chain + some anchor line). Signal for Mate to back down while I place the anchor line around the aft horn of the anchor deck cleat. Maintaining a slight strain (Snubbing) on the line to streach out the rode and set the anchor. When the anchor set as noted by strong strain on the line, I signal to stop backing down. If the wind is blowing, boat points into the wind, and you can feel the steady strain on the anchor line. If it feels like it is not set the line will strain then release the strain quickly, possible that the anchor is not set solid in the bottom. Repeat process then. If a strong wind expected during the night, will slide down my anchor line an additional 18 lbs river anchor to stop at the anchor line/chain shackle. This keeps the chain laying flat on the bottom to maintain the "shear" pull on the primary anchor during the blow. Very much like the anchor set up at a mooring buoy. Only once dragged anchor in rocky bottom with only the primary anchor out in high wind when first got the boat. Never happen again with this method.
After confirming the forward motion of the boat has stopped (bubbles in the water by the boat stop astern), I drop the anchor to the depth of the water or all the chain + (26'chain + some anchor line). Signal for Mate to back down while I place the anchor line around the aft horn of the anchor deck cleat. Maintaining a slight strain (Snubbing) on the line to streach out the rode and set the anchor. When the anchor set as noted by strong strain on the line, I signal to stop backing down. If the wind is blowing, boat points into the wind, and you can feel the steady strain on the anchor line. If it feels like it is not set the line will strain then release the strain quickly, possible that the anchor is not set solid in the bottom. Repeat process then. If a strong wind expected during the night, will slide down my anchor line an additional 18 lbs river anchor to stop at the anchor line/chain shackle. This keeps the chain laying flat on the bottom to maintain the "shear" pull on the primary anchor during the blow. Very much like the anchor set up at a mooring buoy. Only once dragged anchor in rocky bottom with only the primary anchor out in high wind when first got the boat. Never happen again with this method.
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Norm Bernstein
It isn't hard to do it properly!
In my 20 years of boating, we've seen some unbelievable examples of how NOT to drop an anchor. Just last weekend, in Block Island, we saw a 30' express cruiser, running at about 5 knots DOWNWIND, simply drop his hook.... while he kept on going... unbelievable! Our technique has been practiced over the past 20 years. My wife, at the helm, locates a suitable spot, recognizing how much room we'll need to drop back after the anchor is set. She brings the boat up into the wind, and as the boat slows to a stop, she announces the depthsounder reading. I lower the hook, using the windlass (we use an all-chain rode and a heave Danforth anchor) and let out adequate scope. We let the breeze blow us back... until the anchor rode indicates that we've begin to dig in by pulling the bow straight. I then let out additional scope. When sufficient scope is let out, my wife puts the engine into reverse, at IDLE, to help to set, as well as test, the anchor. When we're satisfied we've dug in adequately, I use a short nylon hawser with a chain hook, letting out a few additional feet of chain so that the load is borne by the nylon; this provides some additional shock absorption, while at the same time preventing the chain from noisily shifting in the roller as the wind pushes us around. To retrieve the anchor, my wife engages the engine, once again, at IDLE speed, and follows my signals to turn the boat as I retrieve the anchor with the windlass. When I can see the anchor come up, I give her a 'thumbs up' sign, so she can proceed slowly while I clean up the anchor and stow the related gear.
In my 20 years of boating, we've seen some unbelievable examples of how NOT to drop an anchor. Just last weekend, in Block Island, we saw a 30' express cruiser, running at about 5 knots DOWNWIND, simply drop his hook.... while he kept on going... unbelievable! Our technique has been practiced over the past 20 years. My wife, at the helm, locates a suitable spot, recognizing how much room we'll need to drop back after the anchor is set. She brings the boat up into the wind, and as the boat slows to a stop, she announces the depthsounder reading. I lower the hook, using the windlass (we use an all-chain rode and a heave Danforth anchor) and let out adequate scope. We let the breeze blow us back... until the anchor rode indicates that we've begin to dig in by pulling the bow straight. I then let out additional scope. When sufficient scope is let out, my wife puts the engine into reverse, at IDLE, to help to set, as well as test, the anchor. When we're satisfied we've dug in adequately, I use a short nylon hawser with a chain hook, letting out a few additional feet of chain so that the load is borne by the nylon; this provides some additional shock absorption, while at the same time preventing the chain from noisily shifting in the roller as the wind pushes us around. To retrieve the anchor, my wife engages the engine, once again, at IDLE speed, and follows my signals to turn the boat as I retrieve the anchor with the windlass. When I can see the anchor come up, I give her a 'thumbs up' sign, so she can proceed slowly while I clean up the anchor and stow the related gear.
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Gwinn Boucher
Anchoring
I have not anchored a lot but my experiences have been OK. After seeing what happens to my mooring lines, I don't think I am ready to try it in very rough weather. If we are using a combination Anchorage; tied off to shore and to an Anchor, I have one of those little "Personal Alarms" with a lanyard. you can use a very light line to tie it to a tree on shore. If you move very far it pulls the lanyard and alerts you. If you are Anchored off, there is always the Radar/GPS off station alarm but I always worry about the Battery and the fact that mine will only go down to about 250 feet. In the Columbia River, that is not close enough. Gwinn
I have not anchored a lot but my experiences have been OK. After seeing what happens to my mooring lines, I don't think I am ready to try it in very rough weather. If we are using a combination Anchorage; tied off to shore and to an Anchor, I have one of those little "Personal Alarms" with a lanyard. you can use a very light line to tie it to a tree on shore. If you move very far it pulls the lanyard and alerts you. If you are Anchored off, there is always the Radar/GPS off station alarm but I always worry about the Battery and the fact that mine will only go down to about 250 feet. In the Columbia River, that is not close enough. Gwinn
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Walter Weckers
Always be sure
I suppose this theme continues on the "scope" theme. We always back up under engine - having set up to 100' of chain and more rode if necessary. Usually we go to 1400-1600rpm, which is quite some power, I find. So far we have never had a problem - and we just finished a circumnavigation of Georgian Bay, setting anchor in nine different anchorages. However, one can never tell and vigilance is part of the whole anchoring experience...
I suppose this theme continues on the "scope" theme. We always back up under engine - having set up to 100' of chain and more rode if necessary. Usually we go to 1400-1600rpm, which is quite some power, I find. So far we have never had a problem - and we just finished a circumnavigation of Georgian Bay, setting anchor in nine different anchorages. However, one can never tell and vigilance is part of the whole anchoring experience...
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George Fugate
Why dragging
I've always had good luck anchoring using the text book method of approaching into the wind, dropping anchor and letting out half of the pre-determined scope. When I feel the bite and the bow swings around, I put the motor in reverse and make sure the anchor is really dug in. Once I'm sure the anchor is set, I let out the rest of the scope. However, last Fourth of July I was anchored in a busy creek to watch fireworks. Was anchored safely for 12 hours. Then suddenly around 3am, I start dragging anchor. I was in a line of 6 other boats of equal or larger size and they stayed put. It wasn't a slow drag either, but more like the anchor had fallen off. Fortunately that wasn't the case, but it's still a mystery to me. And, why I always keep a watch when anchored. Any thoughts why she let go after holding so well?
I've always had good luck anchoring using the text book method of approaching into the wind, dropping anchor and letting out half of the pre-determined scope. When I feel the bite and the bow swings around, I put the motor in reverse and make sure the anchor is really dug in. Once I'm sure the anchor is set, I let out the rest of the scope. However, last Fourth of July I was anchored in a busy creek to watch fireworks. Was anchored safely for 12 hours. Then suddenly around 3am, I start dragging anchor. I was in a line of 6 other boats of equal or larger size and they stayed put. It wasn't a slow drag either, but more like the anchor had fallen off. Fortunately that wasn't the case, but it's still a mystery to me. And, why I always keep a watch when anchored. Any thoughts why she let go after holding so well?
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Dave
Typcial method with GPS checks
We head into the wind, come to a stop, drop anchor, let out appropriate scope, give a tug or two, let out a bit more scope and then back in reverse for a short burst. Once I think it is set, I'll look at my GPS readings and then check them every so often to confirm we are holding. If I decide to go swimming myself (instead of just the kids), I invariably go check how the anchor is set as we are typically in about 10 feet of water. Last week we anchored in 25 knot winds and held very tight while we watched a power boater try to anchor by putting out only about 3:1 scope and wonder why he wasn't holding. He eventually gave up and left much to our relief.
We head into the wind, come to a stop, drop anchor, let out appropriate scope, give a tug or two, let out a bit more scope and then back in reverse for a short burst. Once I think it is set, I'll look at my GPS readings and then check them every so often to confirm we are holding. If I decide to go swimming myself (instead of just the kids), I invariably go check how the anchor is set as we are typically in about 10 feet of water. Last week we anchored in 25 knot winds and held very tight while we watched a power boater try to anchor by putting out only about 3:1 scope and wonder why he wasn't holding. He eventually gave up and left much to our relief.
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Mark
Plenty of scope
Bed down the anchor and let out 8 to 1 or more even if it isn't blowing and providing there is room. More the better!!
Bed down the anchor and let out 8 to 1 or more even if it isn't blowing and providing there is room. More the better!!
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Dave J -- the A-21 "StarShine"
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Dave J
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Walter
On second thought
I suppose my earlier reply took a lot for granted, so I'll be a bit more specific: On arrival I slowly circle the area in the anchorage where I would like to settle, checking depth all along and how others have anchored. During the second circle I go to the spot where I plan to drop anchor and stop the boat, go forward while my wife/commodore takes the helm. I lower the anchor (by hand, OK with 35lbs and chain in depth up to 25 feet for me - my windlass only works to haul the anchor up). When the anchor hits bottom I pay out a little chain, and continue to pay out as the boat falls off. If the boat does not fall off quickly enough (e.g. no wind), I signal (by hand) for idle reverse and pay out more. When I have let out enough chain (I have 100' on my Catalina 36), and rode for the required scope, I signal to reverse at idle speed to straighten the chain and start digging the anchor. When the anchor appears set, I signal for reverse - idle speed (800 rpm), next 1200 rpm, finally 1600 rpm. During this time I try and pick prominent shore features abeam of the yacht to see if I am dragging (e.g. a tree on the shore and a tree or rock further back - great, easy reference points like a range perpendicular to the boat). Then, cut engine, and take compass readings from the cockpit to at least three points on the shore, distant enough not to change much as you swing at anchor. I check frequently at the beginning, and whenever wind pipes up or changes direction. I do not rely on GPS - it just consumes power and has never really given me the desired accuracy. The few times I have used it I have gotten inaccurate alarms. The most frequent error I continue to see is inadequate scope (see previous quiz) and little or no power to back up/dig the anchor in. At the beginning of the season we review and refine our hand signals. We try hard not to yell during our anchoring manoeuvres - we cannot hear each other over the engine, anyway. Sounds a bit text book? Sure, why argue with folks who've done this a heck of a lot more than we have. As to anchoring in a cove and tying stern to the shore: this is quite common in Georgian Bay/North Channel of Lake Huron, but we have not done that yet and prefer anchorages where space permits us to float "free". A problem I see with this is that most of these that I have seen literally tie the stern line to a tree, rather than the correct way of looping the line and bringing it back on board in case of an emergency departure. A lot of people (1) waste time going ashore to untie and then let the boat swing or (2) have to leave the line behind. Long enough?
I suppose my earlier reply took a lot for granted, so I'll be a bit more specific: On arrival I slowly circle the area in the anchorage where I would like to settle, checking depth all along and how others have anchored. During the second circle I go to the spot where I plan to drop anchor and stop the boat, go forward while my wife/commodore takes the helm. I lower the anchor (by hand, OK with 35lbs and chain in depth up to 25 feet for me - my windlass only works to haul the anchor up). When the anchor hits bottom I pay out a little chain, and continue to pay out as the boat falls off. If the boat does not fall off quickly enough (e.g. no wind), I signal (by hand) for idle reverse and pay out more. When I have let out enough chain (I have 100' on my Catalina 36), and rode for the required scope, I signal to reverse at idle speed to straighten the chain and start digging the anchor. When the anchor appears set, I signal for reverse - idle speed (800 rpm), next 1200 rpm, finally 1600 rpm. During this time I try and pick prominent shore features abeam of the yacht to see if I am dragging (e.g. a tree on the shore and a tree or rock further back - great, easy reference points like a range perpendicular to the boat). Then, cut engine, and take compass readings from the cockpit to at least three points on the shore, distant enough not to change much as you swing at anchor. I check frequently at the beginning, and whenever wind pipes up or changes direction. I do not rely on GPS - it just consumes power and has never really given me the desired accuracy. The few times I have used it I have gotten inaccurate alarms. The most frequent error I continue to see is inadequate scope (see previous quiz) and little or no power to back up/dig the anchor in. At the beginning of the season we review and refine our hand signals. We try hard not to yell during our anchoring manoeuvres - we cannot hear each other over the engine, anyway. Sounds a bit text book? Sure, why argue with folks who've done this a heck of a lot more than we have. As to anchoring in a cove and tying stern to the shore: this is quite common in Georgian Bay/North Channel of Lake Huron, but we have not done that yet and prefer anchorages where space permits us to float "free". A problem I see with this is that most of these that I have seen literally tie the stern line to a tree, rather than the correct way of looping the line and bringing it back on board in case of an emergency departure. A lot of people (1) waste time going ashore to untie and then let the boat swing or (2) have to leave the line behind. Long enough?
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Sid R Ballantyne
Anchor Drills
When my wife and I started sailing we read The Annapolis Book of Seamanship and then practiced "anchor drills" I am sure we were pretty hilarious to watch! We made every mistake you can make until we got it right. Its amazing how easy something can get with practice. We have learned that proper scope is the key to a good hold. Oh and don't anchor off a lee shore. oops.
When my wife and I started sailing we read The Annapolis Book of Seamanship and then practiced "anchor drills" I am sure we were pretty hilarious to watch! We made every mistake you can make until we got it right. Its amazing how easy something can get with practice. We have learned that proper scope is the key to a good hold. Oh and don't anchor off a lee shore. oops.
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Chuck Shaw
Anchoring without an engine
After too many years of having my wife try to back the boat down straight aft (and end up NOT going straight aft!!) I usually anchor as follows: If the anchorage is constrained (shoreline or other boats) I start the engine "just in case" but leave it idling in neutral. I drop the main, and then beam reach to the point where I want the anchor to be located, dropping the jib just before we get there. We then sharply turn dead downwind (to kill headway), and I lower the anchor till its just touching the bottom, then slowly pay out the rode so as to lay out the rode rather than have it pile up. I keep very little tension on the rode however. When I get back to about 7 or 8:1, I "slowly" snub the rode to allow the anchor to dig in rather than skip. This works well even in grass for me. I know the anchor bites when the boat stops and swings around. Then I retrive back to the scope I intend to use (5:1 to 7:1 depending on the conditions and where we are anchored). If it does not bite, my wife turns the boat towards the anchor rode (to prevent fouling on the rudder/keel), and when turned puts the motor in gear and we motor back up to the anchor while I retrive the rode and we then just back down conventionally. I am betting in the last 25 years I have had to motor back up to the anchor less than 5 times.... The trick, in my mind, is to turn towards the rode to keep fromgetting things fouled... Its a simple and easy way to anchor that works really well for us.
After too many years of having my wife try to back the boat down straight aft (and end up NOT going straight aft!!) I usually anchor as follows: If the anchorage is constrained (shoreline or other boats) I start the engine "just in case" but leave it idling in neutral. I drop the main, and then beam reach to the point where I want the anchor to be located, dropping the jib just before we get there. We then sharply turn dead downwind (to kill headway), and I lower the anchor till its just touching the bottom, then slowly pay out the rode so as to lay out the rode rather than have it pile up. I keep very little tension on the rode however. When I get back to about 7 or 8:1, I "slowly" snub the rode to allow the anchor to dig in rather than skip. This works well even in grass for me. I know the anchor bites when the boat stops and swings around. Then I retrive back to the scope I intend to use (5:1 to 7:1 depending on the conditions and where we are anchored). If it does not bite, my wife turns the boat towards the anchor rode (to prevent fouling on the rudder/keel), and when turned puts the motor in gear and we motor back up to the anchor while I retrive the rode and we then just back down conventionally. I am betting in the last 25 years I have had to motor back up to the anchor less than 5 times.... The trick, in my mind, is to turn towards the rode to keep fromgetting things fouled... Its a simple and easy way to anchor that works really well for us.
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Joseph Lorenz
Those tasks are left to First Mate!
I myself , as first mate through anchor off bow and let boat drift till it holds fast'We have three different types used for various conditions,as The Capitain Orders!
I myself , as first mate through anchor off bow and let boat drift till it holds fast'We have three different types used for various conditions,as The Capitain Orders!
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