My teak is a little weathered on 27 year old sailboat. I'm currently going through a gradual restoration process and I think I'd like to preserve the teak, and give it a little luster. It all is a dry looking weathered gray color now. My partner feels that teak needs no finish, but as I mentioned above I'd like to finish it. I think I can use either an oil or stain and varnish of some sort. My goals are 1)preservation, and 2) appearance. I would prefer an economical approach. So is my partner correct in his assertion that teak needs no finish, or will a finish help preserve it? Can anyone suggest a decent economical finish treatment? I used a minwax combination stain and finish on the tiller. It looks nice, but it's only been in the weather less than a year, so I don't know how well it will hold up. Thanks, Drake.
My teak is weathered
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Ah, the Teak....
Some years ago I had an Alberg Sea Sprite. Great little boat, but had miles of teak. Perhaps like your boat, the teak had been allowed to age and grey. I decided to clean it up. I used an automotive product called "Blechewhite" and a soft brush. It took a number of applications, but really cleaned up the old teak. Looked like new. I then made the mistake of oiling it. In 3 weeks, the newly oiled teak began to turn black in the sun. I once again used the Blechewhite. I then got smart: Sikkens Cetol. Cetol vs. Varnish? Varnish wins on looks. Cetol wins on ease of application and lasting duration. Take your pick, just don't pick oil.
Some years ago I had an Alberg Sea Sprite. Great little boat, but had miles of teak. Perhaps like your boat, the teak had been allowed to age and grey. I decided to clean it up. I used an automotive product called "Blechewhite" and a soft brush. It took a number of applications, but really cleaned up the old teak. Looked like new. I then made the mistake of oiling it. In 3 weeks, the newly oiled teak began to turn black in the sun. I once again used the Blechewhite. I then got smart: Sikkens Cetol. Cetol vs. Varnish? Varnish wins on looks. Cetol wins on ease of application and lasting duration. Take your pick, just don't pick oil.
Teak
After years of torture I now am a firm believer in Solar Stripping. Let the sun eat away old varnish and let your teak go gray so you have more time yo sail
After years of torture I now am a firm believer in Solar Stripping. Let the sun eat away old varnish and let your teak go gray so you have more time yo sail
Agree with Warren
I allowed the teak on my boat to go unfinished for five years before I decided to finish it. I used a one-step teak cleaner, then applied Semko. Used three coats as directed. It was supposed to last the whole season, but really only looked good for about a month before it began to deteriorate. By the end of the season, the finish was shot. Last year I switched to Cetol: One coat (I didn't have time to do more) lasted almost the whole season. This spring I will make the time for a full application. It doesn't look as "yachty" as varnish, but it is a lot easier to apply and reapply. Oil looks the best, but as you discovered, it doesn't last. Check the archives here for additional suggestions as I know that several people here swear by other products.
I allowed the teak on my boat to go unfinished for five years before I decided to finish it. I used a one-step teak cleaner, then applied Semko. Used three coats as directed. It was supposed to last the whole season, but really only looked good for about a month before it began to deteriorate. By the end of the season, the finish was shot. Last year I switched to Cetol: One coat (I didn't have time to do more) lasted almost the whole season. This spring I will make the time for a full application. It doesn't look as "yachty" as varnish, but it is a lot easier to apply and reapply. Oil looks the best, but as you discovered, it doesn't last. Check the archives here for additional suggestions as I know that several people here swear by other products.
boat restoration experts
Every time one of the local professional boat restoration company guys come in the store, I always ask them their opinion as they do this for a living. Invariably, they all have their unique tricks but they seem to agree on a few things - namely, don't use teak cleaners as it/they eat at and will eventually destroy the grain, clean teak with houshold cleansers, don't use scrubbing brushes and sand with fine grain (e.g., 150 grit) sandpaper before finishing. They all seem to prefer vacuuming the dust after sanding over tack rags which apparently serve to imbed the dust further into the grain. Not suprisingly, they all frown on cetol type stains (which I admit using too) and seem to favor Interlux varnish with the first coat cut. For what it's worth... Don
Every time one of the local professional boat restoration company guys come in the store, I always ask them their opinion as they do this for a living. Invariably, they all have their unique tricks but they seem to agree on a few things - namely, don't use teak cleaners as it/they eat at and will eventually destroy the grain, clean teak with houshold cleansers, don't use scrubbing brushes and sand with fine grain (e.g., 150 grit) sandpaper before finishing. They all seem to prefer vacuuming the dust after sanding over tack rags which apparently serve to imbed the dust further into the grain. Not suprisingly, they all frown on cetol type stains (which I admit using too) and seem to favor Interlux varnish with the first coat cut. For what it's worth... Don
StarBright
Hello, Last year I had a similar problem on my new-to-me 1986 Newport 28. The exterior teak was grey and dirty looking. Since I would rather sail than perform maintenance I thought of leaving it alone. However, the appearance bothered me. I decided to try some simple things to see if I could improve the look. I bought a StarBright kit from WestMarine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/72433/10001/552/11204/4 It includes a cleaner, brightener, and oil. The cleaner removed all the old diry and make the teak look a lot better. The brightener turned it from grey to a nice golden color. Then the oil make it look very nice. The oil didn't last the season (in the northeast). I had to re-apply the oil mid way through. And the teak was dull looking at the end of the year. However, the stuff is so easy to use that I'll use it again this year. I don't need to clean or brighten the teak that much,. I'll just quickly clean it and oil it. Good luck. Barry
Hello, Last year I had a similar problem on my new-to-me 1986 Newport 28. The exterior teak was grey and dirty looking. Since I would rather sail than perform maintenance I thought of leaving it alone. However, the appearance bothered me. I decided to try some simple things to see if I could improve the look. I bought a StarBright kit from WestMarine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/72433/10001/552/11204/4 It includes a cleaner, brightener, and oil. The cleaner removed all the old diry and make the teak look a lot better. The brightener turned it from grey to a nice golden color. Then the oil make it look very nice. The oil didn't last the season (in the northeast). I had to re-apply the oil mid way through. And the teak was dull looking at the end of the year. However, the stuff is so easy to use that I'll use it again this year. I don't need to clean or brighten the teak that much,. I'll just quickly clean it and oil it. Good luck. Barry
Teak!!!!
There is no good (read easy) way to keep teak looking good without constant upkeep. Thus, I am in the process of replacing all of the exterior teak on my Hunter 356 with Plasteak. I will be the first to admit that Plasteak does not look exactly like real teak when you get within touching distance but the only maintenance it requires can be done with a hose. Also, real teak only looks good the day you refinish it and it's downhill from there. I just finished the stern rail seats and will install them today and they look great.
There is no good (read easy) way to keep teak looking good without constant upkeep. Thus, I am in the process of replacing all of the exterior teak on my Hunter 356 with Plasteak. I will be the first to admit that Plasteak does not look exactly like real teak when you get within touching distance but the only maintenance it requires can be done with a hose. Also, real teak only looks good the day you refinish it and it's downhill from there. I just finished the stern rail seats and will install them today and they look great.
Teak treatment for raw teak....
If your dont want the bother of varnish, cetol, oil etc. and want a fairly long lasting 'preservation' .... use the following 'mixture': 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Semco Natural, 1/3 Olympic deck stain (carmel). Apply two wet coats letting it dry in between. This is used on the teak decks of mega yachts and will last about 18 months,,,, but you still need to scrub off the accumulating debris/dirt with "Joy" and a bit of clorox. If you are outside the USA and can find it, use 'heavy duty' 'Scotchguard' on top of the above 'mix' the areas not walked on for further protection. For areas not walked on -- occasionally apply SPF 30+ suntan lotion over the above 1/3:1/3:1/3 mix to prevent UV damage and fading .... or "Apseal UV protectant". Its the UV from the sun that does most of the damage to teak.
If your dont want the bother of varnish, cetol, oil etc. and want a fairly long lasting 'preservation' .... use the following 'mixture': 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Semco Natural, 1/3 Olympic deck stain (carmel). Apply two wet coats letting it dry in between. This is used on the teak decks of mega yachts and will last about 18 months,,,, but you still need to scrub off the accumulating debris/dirt with "Joy" and a bit of clorox. If you are outside the USA and can find it, use 'heavy duty' 'Scotchguard' on top of the above 'mix' the areas not walked on for further protection. For areas not walked on -- occasionally apply SPF 30+ suntan lotion over the above 1/3:1/3:1/3 mix to prevent UV damage and fading .... or "Apseal UV protectant". Its the UV from the sun that does most of the damage to teak.
Cetol
I used Cetol - about 5 coats on raw wood after I lightly sanded the grey-ness off the wood (ad used teak cleaner). It's easy and looks ok too but not as good as varnish looks. very easy application.
I used Cetol - about 5 coats on raw wood after I lightly sanded the grey-ness off the wood (ad used teak cleaner). It's easy and looks ok too but not as good as varnish looks. very easy application.
Although really a laminate...
Although really a laminating finish, Decks Ole' has held up well on my Venture. Just now starting to show signs of needing work after 2 really hot summers and a third unpredictable winter. I'll probalby be stripping the finish and with light sanding, should be able to put on a couple of coats(i only put on 3 back in 2003) unless it rains 29 out of 30 days again this spring.
Although really a laminating finish, Decks Ole' has held up well on my Venture. Just now starting to show signs of needing work after 2 really hot summers and a third unpredictable winter. I'll probalby be stripping the finish and with light sanding, should be able to put on a couple of coats(i only put on 3 back in 2003) unless it rains 29 out of 30 days again this spring.
Teak - ugh - but it sure looks good!
All of my boats have had a lot of teak I promised myself no more, then just bought a boat with more teak than all the others combined. Letting your teak grey is not a horrible thing to do, but if you want it to look good you need to put a finish on. It really is a matter of personal preference. I have found that oil just does not last very long so you are our there doing it again in a month or so. Cetol now has a product that looks pretty good - it always seemed to orange for me, but the one is better. i have used some stuff called "HOney Teak" which I was pleased with over 2 or 3 seasons. I really liked it's color. It is similar to Cetol - worth a look. My new/used boat is done in Bristol Finish, so tht is what I will be using, now. Nothing looks better than varnish. Also, there is debate over using cleaners. Some contend they damage the wood. I have usually opted for sandpaper.
All of my boats have had a lot of teak I promised myself no more, then just bought a boat with more teak than all the others combined. Letting your teak grey is not a horrible thing to do, but if you want it to look good you need to put a finish on. It really is a matter of personal preference. I have found that oil just does not last very long so you are our there doing it again in a month or so. Cetol now has a product that looks pretty good - it always seemed to orange for me, but the one is better. i have used some stuff called "HOney Teak" which I was pleased with over 2 or 3 seasons. I really liked it's color. It is similar to Cetol - worth a look. My new/used boat is done in Bristol Finish, so tht is what I will be using, now. Nothing looks better than varnish. Also, there is debate over using cleaners. Some contend they damage the wood. I have usually opted for sandpaper.
Cetol
I use Cetol. It does tend to get an orangey color as it ages, so I put another coat on and it's okay for another couple of years. Don't think you can find anything that will last as long as it does.
I use Cetol. It does tend to get an orangey color as it ages, so I put another coat on and it's okay for another couple of years. Don't think you can find anything that will last as long as it does.
Another vote for Cetol
Drake, there are so many opinions on the topic. I just completed refinishing all my teak and chose to sand only and go with Cetol Light for 3 coats (not as deep an orange color of Cetol Marine) and followed this with 2 topcoats of Cetol gloss. Does it look as good as varnish?...no, but IMHO it looks SO much better than it did originally and the Cetol gloss really makes it "pop". Using hindsight, I would do it this way again with no reservation. I also have enough Cetol left over to do a maintenance coat for many years. When it came to refinishing my tiller, I did go with varnish and bought a new tiller cover. Hope this helps and good luck with the project.
Drake, there are so many opinions on the topic. I just completed refinishing all my teak and chose to sand only and go with Cetol Light for 3 coats (not as deep an orange color of Cetol Marine) and followed this with 2 topcoats of Cetol gloss. Does it look as good as varnish?...no, but IMHO it looks SO much better than it did originally and the Cetol gloss really makes it "pop". Using hindsight, I would do it this way again with no reservation. I also have enough Cetol left over to do a maintenance coat for many years. When it came to refinishing my tiller, I did go with varnish and bought a new tiller cover. Hope this helps and good luck with the project.
There's a way to avoid the orangy look...
Before applying another coat, "sand" with very fine bronze wool to remove the top coats that have become scratched, damaged by UV etc. I used Cetol on all my boats...doing it this way kept the "first year" look forever. However, if you use Cetol--and you want it to look GOOD!-- it's absolutely essential that before you apply it the first time, you prep the wood as meticilously as you would if you were gonna varnish it. Just cleaning it, then slapping on enough coats will not give you the look want. The wood must be cleaned, then sanded totally smooth...and especially allowed to dry out completely. Everyone who has problems with Cetol has tried to turn it into a one-day job like oiling...that will NOT give you the result you want. Treat it as if it were varnish the first time--which IS a PITA!--and then bronze wool the top coats off each time you need to re-apply, and I promise you'll love it for years.
Before applying another coat, "sand" with very fine bronze wool to remove the top coats that have become scratched, damaged by UV etc. I used Cetol on all my boats...doing it this way kept the "first year" look forever. However, if you use Cetol--and you want it to look GOOD!-- it's absolutely essential that before you apply it the first time, you prep the wood as meticilously as you would if you were gonna varnish it. Just cleaning it, then slapping on enough coats will not give you the look want. The wood must be cleaned, then sanded totally smooth...and especially allowed to dry out completely. Everyone who has problems with Cetol has tried to turn it into a one-day job like oiling...that will NOT give you the result you want. Treat it as if it were varnish the first time--which IS a PITA!--and then bronze wool the top coats off each time you need to re-apply, and I promise you'll love it for years.
Cetol light
My wife is the wood refinisher in the family. On our new 1986 boat she sanded/is sanding the wood down completely as it was previously varnished and pealing (looked horible). She then procedes to put several (4 ) coats of Cetol Light on. Nothing else as we like the mat finish. It looks real good for several years. And no pealing! Greg Pearson P36-2 Cal 34 III
My wife is the wood refinisher in the family. On our new 1986 boat she sanded/is sanding the wood down completely as it was previously varnished and pealing (looked horible). She then procedes to put several (4 ) coats of Cetol Light on. Nothing else as we like the mat finish. It looks real good for several years. And no pealing! Greg Pearson P36-2 Cal 34 III
black spots?
Some of my teak has black spots about the size of pin heads. Are these mildew, that bleach will take care of?
Some of my teak has black spots about the size of pin heads. Are these mildew, that bleach will take care of?
Teak/Horses
Drake, Finishing teak reminds me of owning horses. Both are fine and dandy if you want to (or can afford to)spend the money to hire help to do all care and maintenance. Otherwise, they're a time consuming pain in the a--. I think Cetol looks awful and Varnish has zero capacity to withstand the sun. Just clean the raw teak gently when it gets grey with a Scotchbrite padded sponge and a little chlorine bleach or oxalic acid bleach and it looks beautiful. It only take minutes to do. Then, go sailing! tm
Drake, Finishing teak reminds me of owning horses. Both are fine and dandy if you want to (or can afford to)spend the money to hire help to do all care and maintenance. Otherwise, they're a time consuming pain in the a--. I think Cetol looks awful and Varnish has zero capacity to withstand the sun. Just clean the raw teak gently when it gets grey with a Scotchbrite padded sponge and a little chlorine bleach or oxalic acid bleach and it looks beautiful. It only take minutes to do. Then, go sailing! tm
How about covering?
I have always used 8-10 coats of varnish (less than that won't hold up to even 1 year in the South Texas SUNSHINE and year-around sailing). I love the look, but the application is a b---h. The 1st three coats each need a good 8-12 hours to dry (read apply 1/day), then the following coats need 24-48 hrs/day curing/drying time. This process takes about 20 days just to apply the varnish. A good friend just made me a new set of teak hatch boards and treated them with 5 coats of Cetol Lite and 3 coats of Cetol gloss. THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL!!! and almost as pretty as varnish. I plan to use this approach in the future. Notes on teak: 1) NEVER use a scrub brush. The grain of the teak is composed of two different textures. The dark is hard and the light is soft. To get a smooth finish, you sand down the dark. If you use a brush, it will dig out the soft and make the grooves deeper which will catch more dirt and cause a rougher surface. 2) Chemical cleaners are usually harsh on wood. On teak, they usually strip out some of the oil that makes teak so practical for marine uses. So if you use a cleaner/stripper (I never use them on teak) you need to recondition the wood with an appropriate product. Preventing the UV damage (SO important in South Texas!). I used scraps of Sunbrella and made covers for my handrails and toerails. On the handrails, I have installed snaps on the ends and velcro in the grab areas to keep them on. On the toerails, I installed snaps at the ends and 1-2 on each side depending on how long the rail is. The covers were fairly easy to make after I designed how to cut/fold/sew the ends. If you want a copy of my design, I'll be happy to scan and email it to you. It only takes about 5 minutes to put on or take off all the covers. I used to varnish almost every year, now by blocking the UV I can go 3-4 years. I'm anxious to find out how long the Cetol will last when it is covered. BTW, Hancock Fabrics has an outdoor fabric similar to Sunbrella in green, blue, white and black (I haven't found the burgandy) for about $8/yd. I got some once on clearance for $5.50/yd. I think it would work fine for the covers. Hope this helps. Jim
I have always used 8-10 coats of varnish (less than that won't hold up to even 1 year in the South Texas SUNSHINE and year-around sailing). I love the look, but the application is a b---h. The 1st three coats each need a good 8-12 hours to dry (read apply 1/day), then the following coats need 24-48 hrs/day curing/drying time. This process takes about 20 days just to apply the varnish. A good friend just made me a new set of teak hatch boards and treated them with 5 coats of Cetol Lite and 3 coats of Cetol gloss. THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL!!! and almost as pretty as varnish. I plan to use this approach in the future. Notes on teak: 1) NEVER use a scrub brush. The grain of the teak is composed of two different textures. The dark is hard and the light is soft. To get a smooth finish, you sand down the dark. If you use a brush, it will dig out the soft and make the grooves deeper which will catch more dirt and cause a rougher surface. 2) Chemical cleaners are usually harsh on wood. On teak, they usually strip out some of the oil that makes teak so practical for marine uses. So if you use a cleaner/stripper (I never use them on teak) you need to recondition the wood with an appropriate product. Preventing the UV damage (SO important in South Texas!). I used scraps of Sunbrella and made covers for my handrails and toerails. On the handrails, I have installed snaps on the ends and velcro in the grab areas to keep them on. On the toerails, I installed snaps at the ends and 1-2 on each side depending on how long the rail is. The covers were fairly easy to make after I designed how to cut/fold/sew the ends. If you want a copy of my design, I'll be happy to scan and email it to you. It only takes about 5 minutes to put on or take off all the covers. I used to varnish almost every year, now by blocking the UV I can go 3-4 years. I'm anxious to find out how long the Cetol will last when it is covered. BTW, Hancock Fabrics has an outdoor fabric similar to Sunbrella in green, blue, white and black (I haven't found the burgandy) for about $8/yd. I got some once on clearance for $5.50/yd. I think it would work fine for the covers. Hope this helps. Jim
Again
Most posts favor Cetol- a good product. Before you go this route check out Honey Teak as I mentioned before. Practical Sailor liked it better than Cetol. I have never used Cetol so I cannot really say more than check it out - it is another option.
Most posts favor Cetol- a good product. Before you go this route check out Honey Teak as I mentioned before. Practical Sailor liked it better than Cetol. I have never used Cetol so I cannot really say more than check it out - it is another option.
Clean teak first then Use Semco
Cetol looks like artificial orange wood. Don't use any teak oil, it attracks mildew going black quickly and does not last. First clean teak with Amazon's Teak cleaner available at West Marine and/or Boat US.It goes on and comes off easy for a fantastic quck clean. It leaves teak a beautiful honey brown color. Let teak dry then sand lightly if needed to remove weathered grooves and/or roughness. Make sure teak is dry. Apply Semco teak sealer in your choice of colors(I use Goldtone) also at West Marine, with a 1/2 inch foam brush. I have a 23 Oday and it takes about 45 minutes to do all topside teak. Semco is fantastic, looks great, easy to apply, protects teak from weathering, NO mildew or darkening of teak, no shine like varnish or that awful orange looking Cetol. Apply maybe twice a year, it's simple and easy.. Semco was developed for extetior teak furnture but is perfect for all boat teak.....
Cetol looks like artificial orange wood. Don't use any teak oil, it attracks mildew going black quickly and does not last. First clean teak with Amazon's Teak cleaner available at West Marine and/or Boat US.It goes on and comes off easy for a fantastic quck clean. It leaves teak a beautiful honey brown color. Let teak dry then sand lightly if needed to remove weathered grooves and/or roughness. Make sure teak is dry. Apply Semco teak sealer in your choice of colors(I use Goldtone) also at West Marine, with a 1/2 inch foam brush. I have a 23 Oday and it takes about 45 minutes to do all topside teak. Semco is fantastic, looks great, easy to apply, protects teak from weathering, NO mildew or darkening of teak, no shine like varnish or that awful orange looking Cetol. Apply maybe twice a year, it's simple and easy.. Semco was developed for extetior teak furnture but is perfect for all boat teak.....
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