I have a 78 O'Day 25 - and my seacock weeps - we are getting close to our launch date - after a long ordeal with refinishing our below water line hull = When I ask our boat yard manager to look at the seacock - he immediately states - I can change the seacock - it will cost you $200 - I say OK - and then he immediately forgets ( this has been going on for 3 months) I have looked through the archives - and don't find much on seacocks - I just wanted to throw this out - is there a simple way to maintain my seacock - (I researched in This Old Boat - but even here the emphasis was on replacement - and my seacock did not look like the one pictured - I could not figure out how one would even take the thing out - no nuts on the interior side -) or should - I once again discuss with our boat yard manager - an be a little more assertive - any help?
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Replace
Replace the seacock. If it is just attached to the thru hull it is avery easy replacement. If you can get at it. Take it off, take it to WM and then screw it back on. The cost of a 1.5 bronze seacock is $50. Cheap compared to the consequences.
Replace the seacock. If it is just attached to the thru hull it is avery easy replacement. If you can get at it. Take it off, take it to WM and then screw it back on. The cost of a 1.5 bronze seacock is $50. Cheap compared to the consequences.
seacocks
An 1-1/2" Bronze Seacock will cost you in excess of $150, + over $25 for a Thru-Hull if required. Groco Seacocks: www.groco.net/ http://www.groco.net/05-Cat/Sec-4.html Including BV Series (030527): http://www.groco.net/parts/data/571.pdf SBV Series (030527): http://www.groco.net/parts/data/574.pdf Seacock Installation: http://www.groco.net/parts/data/IBV-FBV-TB.pdf Groco Thru-Hull Fittings: http://www.groco.net/05-Cat/Sec-6.html
An 1-1/2" Bronze Seacock will cost you in excess of $150, + over $25 for a Thru-Hull if required. Groco Seacocks: www.groco.net/ http://www.groco.net/05-Cat/Sec-4.html Including BV Series (030527): http://www.groco.net/parts/data/571.pdf SBV Series (030527): http://www.groco.net/parts/data/574.pdf Seacock Installation: http://www.groco.net/parts/data/IBV-FBV-TB.pdf Groco Thru-Hull Fittings: http://www.groco.net/05-Cat/Sec-6.html
Gord May, great documentation.
This is great detail, West Marine does offer these at slightly less cost for the seacock. Spencer, are you talking a ball valve on the 1 1/2" thru hull? A ball valve and a seacock are two different things. This should bring up a new debate as to which is better in what situation. Hoosier Kevin, Are you talking about the thru-hull that exits the transom or the thru-hull that exits the cockpit, or is yours an inboardwith a water intake? Are you asking about the valve or are you asking about the thru-hull? My 25( not an inboard), sailed mostly fresh water lakes has no sea cock or valve on the thru hull for the cockpit drain, but I did change it from nylon to bronze to exit the hull, I replaced the hose with good flexable waste hose and replace the cockpit (nylon) thru hull with with a marlon thruhull. I have installed ball valves (not seacocks) on all the other thru hulls (Galley and head sinks) and also made those thru-hulls bronze. r.w.landau
This is great detail, West Marine does offer these at slightly less cost for the seacock. Spencer, are you talking a ball valve on the 1 1/2" thru hull? A ball valve and a seacock are two different things. This should bring up a new debate as to which is better in what situation. Hoosier Kevin, Are you talking about the thru-hull that exits the transom or the thru-hull that exits the cockpit, or is yours an inboardwith a water intake? Are you asking about the valve or are you asking about the thru-hull? My 25( not an inboard), sailed mostly fresh water lakes has no sea cock or valve on the thru hull for the cockpit drain, but I did change it from nylon to bronze to exit the hull, I replaced the hose with good flexable waste hose and replace the cockpit (nylon) thru hull with with a marlon thruhull. I have installed ball valves (not seacocks) on all the other thru hulls (Galley and head sinks) and also made those thru-hulls bronze. r.w.landau
Wrestling with the Unknown -
RW - thanks to Gord May - I may really be looking at a in-line valve to a thru hull fitting = It is located under the companionway sink - I have a 78 O'Day 25 - with an out board - this is the only thru hull under the water line - I still have no idea how the think works - or how you get it out - the thru hull - on the outside - it is a mushroom - has a pair of "ears" - that look like you use a special tool to extract the in-line vavle - if that is what it is - Spencer made a comment that it is easy! - I am wrestling with the unknown - Any comments on the best way to take this bugger out - (I will try to attach a picture - not of my boat - but one that has the same set of "ears")
RW - thanks to Gord May - I may really be looking at a in-line valve to a thru hull fitting = It is located under the companionway sink - I have a 78 O'Day 25 - with an out board - this is the only thru hull under the water line - I still have no idea how the think works - or how you get it out - the thru hull - on the outside - it is a mushroom - has a pair of "ears" - that look like you use a special tool to extract the in-line vavle - if that is what it is - Spencer made a comment that it is easy! - I am wrestling with the unknown - Any comments on the best way to take this bugger out - (I will try to attach a picture - not of my boat - but one that has the same set of "ears")
Use a bar
You can use a bar in the through-hull. Any piece of steel will do, and you can hold on to it with a wrench. Just make sure that it's narrow enough to fit in the hole and wide enough to catch the ears. Adjustments to the width of the bar can be made with a grinder to get it to fit. Unscrew the valve from the threaded part of the through-hull fitting first, then have someone hold the bar with a wrench on the outside while you loosen the nut on the inside. If you have to, light (relative term) tapping should pop the fitting out of the hull. You may also have to cut some sealant out with a knife and clean up the hole before you put a new one in.
You can use a bar in the through-hull. Any piece of steel will do, and you can hold on to it with a wrench. Just make sure that it's narrow enough to fit in the hole and wide enough to catch the ears. Adjustments to the width of the bar can be made with a grinder to get it to fit. Unscrew the valve from the threaded part of the through-hull fitting first, then have someone hold the bar with a wrench on the outside while you loosen the nut on the inside. If you have to, light (relative term) tapping should pop the fitting out of the hull. You may also have to cut some sealant out with a knife and clean up the hole before you put a new one in.
It is a ball valve
On my 1989 Hunter I am replaceing a ball valve under the galley sink. It looks easy and since my boat is already in the water I certainly hope it is easy. Wood plug on the outside, pipe wrench the ball valve off and replace with new... Sounds easy, doesn't it????????????????????????????????
On my 1989 Hunter I am replaceing a ball valve under the galley sink. It looks easy and since my boat is already in the water I certainly hope it is easy. Wood plug on the outside, pipe wrench the ball valve off and replace with new... Sounds easy, doesn't it????????????????????????????????
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