i HAVE A 1997 hUNTER 373. THE DINNER TABLE. DOES ANYONE HAVE A DRAWING OF HOW THE LINE IS RIGGED FOR RAISING AND LOWERING IT.
THANKS
DAVE
THANKS
DAVE
My Salon Table Does Not Work
- Thread starter Dave Sullivan
- Start date
The table is connected to a rope which goes up to a block then down to a counter weight inside the post. There is a knob w/screw that tightens the table to the post.
Hi Dave -
Bill's description is accurate for my '91 H30. The counter weight would not move up and down inside of the compression post. Turns out that water was coming into the boat via the mast and draining into the compression post via the electrical conduit that is in the mast base. There were no drip loops in the mast wires but worse yet, the drain holes in the mast base were plugged and probably allowed water to fill up the mast until overflowing the conduit, which was only an inch above the deck. Did I mention that the two foot counter weight in the post was made of cast iron? It rusted and expanded, fouling solidly in the aluminum post. I removed the post when I stepped and rebuilt the mast last year. Had to beat the counter weight our with a closet hanger dowel and big hammer. I figured if I ground too much rust off, the weight might become a bell clapper in the post, which is probably why the fit was so snug to begin with. That would make it tough to sleep! I left it out so I could run a 4awg (I think) lightning ground from the mast base to the keel bonding point. Before there was a piece of 8awg that connected the base to the post, then a short piece to the keel from a tab that is welded to the inside, bottom of the post. The factory 8awg was rotted off the mast base as was the one at the bottom of the post. 20+ years of dust had accumulated as mud in the bottom of the post to help speed the corrosion. Pulling the post was the only way to get the salon table support sleeve off. It is made of steel and was badly rusted. Sandblasted it, some ospho, then used the interlux 2 part paint, to refinish the table support and post. The paint was an almost perfect match. Just some things to consider.
Dan
Bill's description is accurate for my '91 H30. The counter weight would not move up and down inside of the compression post. Turns out that water was coming into the boat via the mast and draining into the compression post via the electrical conduit that is in the mast base. There were no drip loops in the mast wires but worse yet, the drain holes in the mast base were plugged and probably allowed water to fill up the mast until overflowing the conduit, which was only an inch above the deck. Did I mention that the two foot counter weight in the post was made of cast iron? It rusted and expanded, fouling solidly in the aluminum post. I removed the post when I stepped and rebuilt the mast last year. Had to beat the counter weight our with a closet hanger dowel and big hammer. I figured if I ground too much rust off, the weight might become a bell clapper in the post, which is probably why the fit was so snug to begin with. That would make it tough to sleep! I left it out so I could run a 4awg (I think) lightning ground from the mast base to the keel bonding point. Before there was a piece of 8awg that connected the base to the post, then a short piece to the keel from a tab that is welded to the inside, bottom of the post. The factory 8awg was rotted off the mast base as was the one at the bottom of the post. 20+ years of dust had accumulated as mud in the bottom of the post to help speed the corrosion. Pulling the post was the only way to get the salon table support sleeve off. It is made of steel and was badly rusted. Sandblasted it, some ospho, then used the interlux 2 part paint, to refinish the table support and post. The paint was an almost perfect match. Just some things to consider.
Dan