to work on the manual pump after being gone for a week. It, also, makes a lot of 'squeeking' noise when it is used. This happened on the last head and I replaced it just two years ago. Now, the problem has raised it's 'head' again!! I make it a habit now, since this started happening about 6 weeks ago to lubricate with WD-40 on a towel when we first board for a weekend stay. That seems to take effect after repeated plungings and relieves the pressure on the shaft and reduces - if not eliminates - the noises. However, I don't know what causes it, and am not sure of the exact long term cure. Any thoughts?
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Paul Akers
Head Lube
If all it requires is a lubricant, check at West Marine. They sell a head lube that you pour into the bowl, pump in, and let sit for 12 hours. It runs smoothly after that. But the frequency that it's happenning to you may indicate other problems. A rebuild may be necessary.
If all it requires is a lubricant, check at West Marine. They sell a head lube that you pour into the bowl, pump in, and let sit for 12 hours. It runs smoothly after that. But the frequency that it's happenning to you may indicate other problems. A rebuild may be necessary.
H
howard meyer
clogged vent?
If your holding tank vent hose clogs (with corrosion or you know what) it becomes very hard to pump/flush-you're basically trying to inflate the holding tank. You might check this..
If your holding tank vent hose clogs (with corrosion or you know what) it becomes very hard to pump/flush-you're basically trying to inflate the holding tank. You might check this..
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Stop using WD-40!
Petroleum products eat rubber and neoprene, which are what the seals and valves in your toilet are made of. As for what's causing your problem: Think about how a manual marine toilet works: there's a piston inside a cylinder with rubber/neoprene seals around it that rub agains the inside wall of the cylinder when the piston is pumped up and down. Marine toilets come out of the factory liberally lubricated with thick teflon grease., but unless a housing is completely sealed--which marine toilet pumps are not--over time any lubrication washes out. When it's all gone, bare rubber begins to scrape against the cylinder wall. When the toilet is unused for several days, the pump loses its prime...the seals and other rubber and neoprene parts in the toilet dry out. The first time it's used again, dry hard rubber rubs against the cylinder wall, damaging both the rubber and the cylinder wall. It's even worse in salt water, because the inside of the pump and the rubber parts are salt encrusted. Factory lubrication lasts only a season--maybe two if the boat isn't used much--and when it's gone, dry hard rubber scraping against the walls of the pump is gonna squeak until the toilet is lubricated again. So there's nothing wrong with your toilet--and there prob'ly wasn't anything wrong with the last one. Like any other equipment with moving parts, manual marine toilets need lubrication. There are liquid lubricants that can be poured down the toilet. They're sold in pint and quart bottles because they wash out very quickly and require frequent use. Some people put vegetable oil down the toilet, which also washes out very quickly. Otoh, the thick teflon grease used by the mfrs--SeaLube and SuperLube--is sold in small tubes because it lasts as long as the first factory application did--a season or more. However, you do have to take the pump apart to use them. So the choice is yours: you can either spend a couple of bucks for tube of teflon grease once every couple of years and do it right--which, btw also gives you an opportunity to check the condition of the seals, o-rings and other rubber parts in the pump--or you can keeping pouring a lubricant down the head every week or two when the pump starts to squeak again. The worst downside to that approach is that every time the toilet dries out enough to start squeaking, it's putting extra unnecessary wear on the seals...leading to more frequent rebuilds, or--worse yet--repairs when something fails because they weren't done. You might want to take the time to read the articles in the Head Mistress Reference Library (on the forum homepage) to learn how to operate and maintain your sanitation system.
Petroleum products eat rubber and neoprene, which are what the seals and valves in your toilet are made of. As for what's causing your problem: Think about how a manual marine toilet works: there's a piston inside a cylinder with rubber/neoprene seals around it that rub agains the inside wall of the cylinder when the piston is pumped up and down. Marine toilets come out of the factory liberally lubricated with thick teflon grease., but unless a housing is completely sealed--which marine toilet pumps are not--over time any lubrication washes out. When it's all gone, bare rubber begins to scrape against the cylinder wall. When the toilet is unused for several days, the pump loses its prime...the seals and other rubber and neoprene parts in the toilet dry out. The first time it's used again, dry hard rubber rubs against the cylinder wall, damaging both the rubber and the cylinder wall. It's even worse in salt water, because the inside of the pump and the rubber parts are salt encrusted. Factory lubrication lasts only a season--maybe two if the boat isn't used much--and when it's gone, dry hard rubber scraping against the walls of the pump is gonna squeak until the toilet is lubricated again. So there's nothing wrong with your toilet--and there prob'ly wasn't anything wrong with the last one. Like any other equipment with moving parts, manual marine toilets need lubrication. There are liquid lubricants that can be poured down the toilet. They're sold in pint and quart bottles because they wash out very quickly and require frequent use. Some people put vegetable oil down the toilet, which also washes out very quickly. Otoh, the thick teflon grease used by the mfrs--SeaLube and SuperLube--is sold in small tubes because it lasts as long as the first factory application did--a season or more. However, you do have to take the pump apart to use them. So the choice is yours: you can either spend a couple of bucks for tube of teflon grease once every couple of years and do it right--which, btw also gives you an opportunity to check the condition of the seals, o-rings and other rubber parts in the pump--or you can keeping pouring a lubricant down the head every week or two when the pump starts to squeak again. The worst downside to that approach is that every time the toilet dries out enough to start squeaking, it's putting extra unnecessary wear on the seals...leading to more frequent rebuilds, or--worse yet--repairs when something fails because they weren't done. You might want to take the time to read the articles in the Head Mistress Reference Library (on the forum homepage) to learn how to operate and maintain your sanitation system.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Howard, a clogged vent will create backpressure,
but it won't cause the toilet to bind and squeak unless the toilet also needs lubrication. It'll feel like the head discharge hose is clogged... and it won't go away after the toilet finally manages to prime and get the seals wet again.
but it won't cause the toilet to bind and squeak unless the toilet also needs lubrication. It'll feel like the head discharge hose is clogged... and it won't go away after the toilet finally manages to prime and get the seals wet again.
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steve rainey
Not sure I'm clear on your problem but I use just plain old veggie oil. Flush a cup or so every now and then. It keeps mine working smooth and quiet.
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