I really can't decide if it's lubricating the head piston or getting a root canal (without sedation). Tough choice but I think the root canal comes out on top because it's a little tidier than the lube job.
For the last 19 years, I had made do with a Jabsco just because I could. It was always a bugger getting the gasketed cap back on after a lube job because it always had a leak. Fool around long enough and USUALLY you could get the gasket to seal. And then, early this year, I just could not get the gasket to seal and enough was enough. Out it went into the dumpster in a shower of dirty water.
I had spent a number of previous years looking at the Raritan PHll Superflush and figured the time had come to at least give it a try. @Peggie Hall HeadMistress had strongly recommended it over the years so I figured it had to be better than the Jabsco.
It went in fairly easy with a minimum of cabinetry work and worked like a hot damn. Even went as far as putting in a fresh water suction connection from the sink. Rinsing out the head with fresh water each time the boat was left was a walk in the park.
But now came the time to lubricate the pump piston ring after a season of use. This was always a relatively easy job with the Jabsco as the piston came right out with the rod. The killer was always trying to put the thing back together without leaking !
Looking at the instructions for lubing the piston on the Raritan did not exactly inspire confidence. Open that flange and you don't know what's been in there. Well, actually, you do know what's been in there. What concerned me most was the amount of loose debris which could fall down and get under the gasket preventing a seal after the piston has been lubricated. Got to be a better way.
If one could get into the top side of the piston, the area has only seen fresh flushing water and lubing should be much simpler.
Getting into the top section was an easy enough job removing a couple of pieces:
This picture shows the handle and its attachment removed (remove pin) and the shaft gland cap removed.
This picture shows the forward check valve cap removed for ease of access to the shaft gland.
This picture shows the access to the top of the piston gland accessible along side the piston shaft.
This picture shows a small grease gun with a small polyethylene tube which slips down the side of the piston rod.
This shown the grease gun tube being fed into the cylinder and against the cylinder wall and rotated until all cylinder wall surfaces have been coated. The grease gun is filled with Super Lube.
Once a sufficient amount of grease has been spread along the walls, the piston rod is moved up and down to spread the grease over the interior of the wall. Once this is completed. The pump is re-assembled and the job complete.
For the last 19 years, I had made do with a Jabsco just because I could. It was always a bugger getting the gasketed cap back on after a lube job because it always had a leak. Fool around long enough and USUALLY you could get the gasket to seal. And then, early this year, I just could not get the gasket to seal and enough was enough. Out it went into the dumpster in a shower of dirty water.
I had spent a number of previous years looking at the Raritan PHll Superflush and figured the time had come to at least give it a try. @Peggie Hall HeadMistress had strongly recommended it over the years so I figured it had to be better than the Jabsco.
It went in fairly easy with a minimum of cabinetry work and worked like a hot damn. Even went as far as putting in a fresh water suction connection from the sink. Rinsing out the head with fresh water each time the boat was left was a walk in the park.
But now came the time to lubricate the pump piston ring after a season of use. This was always a relatively easy job with the Jabsco as the piston came right out with the rod. The killer was always trying to put the thing back together without leaking !
Looking at the instructions for lubing the piston on the Raritan did not exactly inspire confidence. Open that flange and you don't know what's been in there. Well, actually, you do know what's been in there. What concerned me most was the amount of loose debris which could fall down and get under the gasket preventing a seal after the piston has been lubricated. Got to be a better way.
If one could get into the top side of the piston, the area has only seen fresh flushing water and lubing should be much simpler.
Getting into the top section was an easy enough job removing a couple of pieces:
This picture shows the handle and its attachment removed (remove pin) and the shaft gland cap removed.
This picture shows the forward check valve cap removed for ease of access to the shaft gland.
This picture shows the access to the top of the piston gland accessible along side the piston shaft.
This picture shows a small grease gun with a small polyethylene tube which slips down the side of the piston rod.
This shown the grease gun tube being fed into the cylinder and against the cylinder wall and rotated until all cylinder wall surfaces have been coated. The grease gun is filled with Super Lube.
Once a sufficient amount of grease has been spread along the walls, the piston rod is moved up and down to spread the grease over the interior of the wall. Once this is completed. The pump is re-assembled and the job complete.