My anchor light is on crack!

[Bad Obsession]

Last week my anchor light didn't work when I was anchored. It worked the week before that when I was testing it. The only difference was that I was plugged into shore power.

Tonight I get to the boat and turn it on....It comes on instantly.

When it wouldn't come on the other night I turned on my engine to up the voltage and nothing. I don't get it.

Anyone had any experience with this? Damn Gremlins!

 

[Bad Obsession]

Update....Turned off shore power and turned on the anchor light....it worked.

When I did this last weekend my Xantrex said that I was at 100% battery too.

I am baffled.

I did go into semi-rough seas last week when coming home from Cobb Island. It wasn't that bad of a pounding though.

 

[Alec]

Anchor Light

You probably just have an intermittant bad connection or the anchor light bulb is giving up the ghost. I would suggest checking the connection at the easiest places to get to first, especially the one at the base of the mast. Turn on all the lights on your mast & have somebody watch them while you wiggle the connector.

 

[Benny]

Gremlins do exist. I had a steaming light that did not work for 4 years and I kept saying to myself I need to change the lightbulb but kept putting it off. One night I'm testing the lights by running through the switches, Navigation-OK, Anchor-OK and flipped the Steaming light switch expecting to draw a blank and wala the light came on and worked well for another few years. Check your wiring and connectors like Alec suggests. Good luck.

 

[Bob Camel]

Had the same problem with my light. I replaced bulbs checked wiring and found no issues. Also had similar problem with port running light. After frustration set in I upgraded to new LED fixtures and have had no lighting issues for a year.

 

[Snotter]

I am currently having problems with my anchor light too. In my case 55' of wire cable is hanging directly on the back/bottom end of the light socket, compressing the contact springs in the process. Since the contacts just barely touch the bulb, the bulb only works on occasions because of corroision.

I sent my son up the mast this weekend to unscrew the short pipe that the anchor light is on so that he can shove a cork in the bottom to pinch the wires and hopefuly support the weight of the wires. However, it started to rain before the operation could be completed. You gotta love boats.

 

[James DAddio]

This happened to me with the mast light, i sent my son up to replace it while moored @ Oakbluff. Still had problems it turned out to be a bad switch @ the electronic panel but drove me crazy for 4 years.

 

[sailingdog]

You really shouldn't have the wire hanging from the fixture...there should be some strain relief and something supporting the wiring at a minimum.

I am currently having problems with my anchor light too. I my case 55' of wire cable is hanging directly on the back/bottom end of the light socket, compressing the contact springs in the process. Since the contacts just barely touch the bulb, the bulb only works on occasions because of corroision.

I sent my son up the mast this weekend to unscrew the short pipe that the anchor light is on so that he can shove a cork in the bottom to pinch the wires and hopefuly support the weight of the wires. However, it started to rain before the operation could be completed. You gotta love boats.

 

[Stephen K]

I have the same gremlin issue, but with my steaming light / deck light combo. The bulbs test out fine...I have it on my list to check the masthead connector plug.

 

[drdanj]

Rain or shine

A friend went up my mast, we spent a day installing new spreader and anchor lights, new wiring all down inside the mast, new connections at the bottom, all great work but the gremlins got me. The new lights work fine, when it rains. When it's dry, no such luck. A short somewhere, but where?

Dan

Last week my anchor light didn't work when I was anchored. It worked the week before that when I was testing it. The only difference was that I was plugged into shore power.

Tonight I get to the boat and turn it on....It comes on instantly.

When it wouldn't come on the other night I turned on my engine to up the voltage and nothing. I don't get it.

Anyone had any experience with this? Damn Gremlins!

 

[Beija Flor]

Another vote for "Check Your Connections"

Do you have a deck plug for the mast light? You might not, but if you have, that's the first thing I would check.

Deck plugs have a particularly hard life. Even if they're gasketed, they are prone to corrosion, and the prongs can wear and get loose. Sometimes just a jiggle will restore enough power to get the light working again ... sometimes not.

The Perko deck-plug I have for my masthead light has cylindrical prongs that are split up the center. Occasionally I have to use a knife or a thin-bladed screwdriver to spread the prongs and tighten up the connection. Anti-oxidant compounds like "Ox-Gard" may also help.

Good luck!

Last week my anchor light didn't work when I was anchored. It worked the week before that when I was testing it. The only difference was that I was plugged into shore power.

Tonight I get to the boat and turn it on....It comes on instantly.

When it wouldn't come on the other night I turned on my engine to up the voltage and nothing. I don't get it.

Anyone had any experience with this? Damn Gremlins!

 

[ITMaster]

I would try dielectric compound at the base where the light bulb gets mounted in its' socket. If you haven't done proper electrical connections on the wiring run, then I would do that also. Maine Sail has a "technical bulletin" with photography, proper tool use, connectors, etc. If you haven't followed the procedure cited in his bulletin, I would review it closely and apply it and the problemo will more than likely go away. Let us know what you find when you do.

 

[Bad Obsession]

My anchor light wiring runs straight down the mast, through the deck, down the compression post area, and out to the bilge. I messed with them already and nothing.

Funny thing is that my uncle had the very same issue and his is now working again.

I am going to slowly and methotically look at this. Unfortunately, I think the first step is sending some aloft to check the contact points on the light bulb (maybe replace it for shits and grins) and then check the place where the wires attach. If that is good back to the bilge area again to re-check and probably just cut the old connections out and re-install new ones. After that back to the switch to test that. The theory is that the probable causes are the areas that get the most exposure...mast...bilge....and finally box.

Ugh...maybe it will just start working! LOL

 

[We2Sail12113]

Breaks within the insulation, soldered joints, spade connectors

:snip
When it wouldn't come on the other night I turned on my engine to up the voltage and nothing. I don't get it.

Anyone had any experience with this? Damn Gremlins!

I've had similar experiences, but in a different venue. I'd first check to see if any of the connections have a soldered connection in the wiring.

The reason being that sometimes the wire, if subject to flexing (ie vibration) just at the soldered joint can break inside the insulation as if cut with a knife (follows the solder joint).

You need to "push in on the wiring to see if this is the problem. However, if you flex it too much, it can also break the wire.

Some boat wiring use(s)(d) the quick connect spade type connections. These, due to vibration, can become loose and intermittent, depending on how much vibration, boat heel, etc.

I had wiring on my boat which baffled me, as the anchor light worked but the steaming light did not. If I switched the connections on the coach roof, then the working sequence reversed, so all within the mast worked fine, one wire to the switches did not.

Ultimately I found on wire had a "waterproofed tape connection" laying in the bilge alongside the good wire. The "bad" wire tested had about 12 Megohms of resistance, and the "good" wire only about 3 ohms (normal). Replace both wires with a continuous run from the switch to the coach roof connections. (PITA and that warn't bread!!)

Another flaky wire connection the PO used plain copper wire and wire nuts. The corrosion found the plain copper and worked it's way up the wire a few inches. That one was easier.

 

[floatmarine]

The gremlins are alive and kicking here. But on a serious note, The OP need to check the connections for any errosion on the wire as well as the fuses I think your problem lies there.

 

[Paul Cossman]

I have experienced the same intermittent failure with my anchor light. It has happened before, and it was caused by corrosion at the point where the double festoon anchor light bulb made contact with the bulb holder. I scraped off the bulb and connector and it worked fine (until the next time it corroded . . . ).

 

[Stu Jackson]

Intermittent operation is usually a wiring connection issue. Our steaming light had the same problem. Here are pictures of the guts of the steaming light. Dave went up the mast and replaced the wiring connections, cleaned the light bulb connections and installed a new cover with a clear clean lens.

 

[mtwolf13]

Re: Breaks within the insulation, soldered joints, spade connectors

If you don't have power to the light, check your switch first. I have had switches where the contacts in the switch go bad (push pull switches.) See if you have power coming out of the switch. Try the switch on and off a couple of times. Try that before you trace anything else.

John

 

[cptskip]

some boats are ele bonded to the keel or ground plane, some have complete bonding systems. check the mast, if alum, OR some conductive material. if wood ck sail track. for any ground wire, that goes to the mast head..... ck for continuity on the ground wire from mast to battery negative. if yes then it is bonded to the battery. now ck ground from the mast itself. to bat neg if not then ground it see if the light is on now. now unplug land line, and put it on the dock. now check for bonding from mast itself to neutral on land power. the white wire. in plug. now ck it from mast to ground. the green wire. in plug. if continuity is there. it is very dangerous. cut or disconnect what ever is bonding it to any wire going to the land line. then the problem is in the grounding system. it could be the wire going up to the socket. and or the bulb, or socket. i've seen bulbs that if you pluck it thay work. turn off for 5 min, and turn it back on and you have to pluck it again to get it to come back on. so put new bulb in. turn it on 2 min and off for 5 min. if it does not come back on
until you pluck it again. then it is the socket or wire. replace entire light. i suggest a new led light less power draw. and it can be solar powered. cptskip@yahoo.com write me if any questions. that also goes for anyone else who wants to ask a question!!!!!

 

[LoneStarCJ]

Think of everything it takes to light up the light. You have a power source(s), breakers or fuses, switches, lamp socket, and conductors. Each of those devices have connections. Check every conductor where it terminates. Even a glass fuse itself can be intermittant or have a corroded connection to the fuse holder. Chunk it and put a new one in there.
As a last resort, if you have splices in line anywhere with the light try re-splicing. Be sure to use quality crimps and seal them from moisture.
Intermittants are the hardest to find. If nothing else try to capture and befriend a greschnald. I hear they chase away gremlins.

GL, CJ