A little more info...
I think Derek's summed it up nicely and I think he's on the right track to suggest you consider keeping your existing alternator as a spare. If you don't like the cost of a new marine HiCap alternator, stop by one of the local Auto Electric shops; they're the ones that rebuild starter motors, alternators, etc. Explain what you'd like (you can take the specs off an Amptech, Balmar or whatever other small frame alternator you would buy), explain the form factor you need (or take in the existing alternator to show them how it bolts on, and ask them for a quote. I had an exact duplicate built at an Auto-Marine shop in case my Amptech unit failed and the cost was 50% less. (And sure enough, the fan blade broke when crossing to the Azores...).I've previously split the casing of a stock Hitachi alternator and attached a manually adjustable regulator to it without problems. However, keep in mind that you'll need to size the field excitation wire properly (that's the line you'll bring out from inside the alternator case after disconnecting the internal regulator, if you stick with your existing alternator) based on the current that will be sent to the winding to excite the alternator. I would expect that the existing field wire on your internally regulated alternator is smaller than what will be required when you start externally exciting it using high amps for more sustained period.Were I you, I'd call up Jack Csenge or one of his crew at Jack Rabbit Marine in Connecticut, explain what you want to do and ask about the smart regulators he carries and which one he'd recommend. Jack's a sailor and did all this stuff with his Pearson over the years, not just a retailer who orders stuff from a distributor. Family owned business, and I've found they really know their stuff. Alternatively, stop by his booth at one of the boat shows.Good luck; this is one of those projects where you'll just keep on appreciating the results.Jack