multi. stage regulator

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D

Darrel

Spending longer periods at anchor,means longer engine runing time to charge batteries.I am seeking a multi stage reg.to put on and still keep my delco 78amp alternator.Has any of you folks out there put a high tec regulator in front of a auto type alt.(i know i will some how have to disconect my internal reg)My questions to you people is this,will my alt.handle the new reg?what kind of regultor has been tested with auto type alternator.looking forward to hearing from sailors who have made this change over.
 
D

Derek Rowell

Charging

Many of the "advanced" regulators allow you to set the maximum current, for example look at the manual for the Balmar MC612 in the related link. As you note, you will probably have to take your present alternator apart and disable the internal regulator and provide access to the field winding. You should check whether your present regulator is a P type or N type. You should also ask whether your alternator is capable of sustained use at its maximum current output. With internal regulators, automotive alternators rarely if ever deliver full current. I have just installed the Balmar MC612 with a 120 amp alternator. After a night or two at anchor I typically see about 75 amps into my two 4D's. You might want to think about keeping your old alternator as a spare and buying a new high current one. Derek
 
J

Jack Tyler

A little more info...

I think Derek's summed it up nicely and I think he's on the right track to suggest you consider keeping your existing alternator as a spare. If you don't like the cost of a new marine HiCap alternator, stop by one of the local Auto Electric shops; they're the ones that rebuild starter motors, alternators, etc. Explain what you'd like (you can take the specs off an Amptech, Balmar or whatever other small frame alternator you would buy), explain the form factor you need (or take in the existing alternator to show them how it bolts on, and ask them for a quote. I had an exact duplicate built at an Auto-Marine shop in case my Amptech unit failed and the cost was 50% less. (And sure enough, the fan blade broke when crossing to the Azores...). I've previously split the casing of a stock Hitachi alternator and attached a manually adjustable regulator to it without problems. However, keep in mind that you'll need to size the field excitation wire properly (that's the line you'll bring out from inside the alternator case after disconnecting the internal regulator, if you stick with your existing alternator) based on the current that will be sent to the winding to excite the alternator. I would expect that the existing field wire on your internally regulated alternator is smaller than what will be required when you start externally exciting it using high amps for more sustained period. Were I you, I'd call up Jack Csenge or one of his crew at Jack Rabbit Marine in Connecticut, explain what you want to do and ask about the smart regulators he carries and which one he'd recommend. Jack's a sailor and did all this stuff with his Pearson over the years, not just a retailer who orders stuff from a distributor. Family owned business, and I've found they really know their stuff. Alternatively, stop by his booth at one of the boat shows. Good luck; this is one of those projects where you'll just keep on appreciating the results. Jack
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,318
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Alternator Regulators

Darrel Try the link to the C34 'site. Lots of great technical information applicable to all boats with inboard engines. The C34 website has GREAT search engines. Please read the whole link, the specific answer to your question comes later on during the read. Stu
 
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